This week's ticklist has an eclectic mix of hard sport, new trad, international bouldering and some Adam Ondra...
Ted Kingsnorth ticks Progress at Kilnsey
44-year-old Ted Kingsnorth has ticked Jerry Moffatt's Progress (8c+) at Kilnsey. He first attempted the route in 2017 and has had to be patient with the route that suffers from regular seepage. Ted describes on his Instagram that he nearly didn't set off on his successful redpoint attempt due to warm conditions and heading back on a cooler day - luckily he went for it and put the long term project to bed.
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Ferdia Earle climbs new E7/E8
Ferdia Earle has climbed The Certainty of Tides (E7/8 6c) at Achmelvich in the northwest of Scotland. The route takes the blank corner o the right of Flawless (E7 6c) and relies on 'skyhooks, sideways offsets and shallow micronuts' according to her partner, Andy.
War and Peace E5/6 1240ft Craig Dorys girdle traverse repeated after 24 years by Bullock and Lovatt
Nick Bullock and Mick Lovatt have continued their quest to tick Craig Dorys by repeating Pat Littlejohn and Steve Sustad's War and Peace girdle traverse over 2 days. They completed 10 pitches on the first day, then returned to complete the remaining 6 on the following day. The line gets its name from Tolstoy's famously long novel, which is only slightly shorter in terms of the number of pages than the route's length in feet. Given the poor rock quality of Dorys, it's an impressive and gutsy undertaking. The first ascent was achieved over 3 days in 20 hours of climbing time.
New Font 8C/+ for Giuliano Cameroni
Swiss beast Giuliano Cameroni has climbed a new Font 8C/+ in Gottardo and named it Hazel Grace. The new problem adds a sit start onto an old 8C project of Dave Graham's that Cameroni completed in 2017. Cameroni wrote:
'First day of the season, what a day! A huge mountain of snow was surrounding the bloc, making it magical. Conditions were perfect and no pressure was involved. Checked out the moves, rested for half an hour and climbed it first try. Great moment where everything connected. So cool to have completed the three lines that I tried the most the past few years!'
Matt Fultz climbs Grand Illusion (Font 8C+)
American climber Matt Fultz has climbed his third Font 8C+ with an ascent of Nathaniel Coleman's Grand Illusion in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. He had been working on the problem since early April, building up the necessary fitness required for the 30ft long boulder/route hybrid. He wrote:
Pacing, precision, and micro-beta needed to be so dialled in for me. And of course, as usual, the long fight ended in a pretty casual first try of the night burn. Felt like I could run laps but I think that's the confidence the problem required of me.'
VIDEO: Adam Ondra flashing 9a+
Reel Rock have released the section from their film 'Age of Ondra' which documents him flashing Alex Megos' Supercrackinette at St. Leger, France. It was the first (and only) flash of a 9a+ and came after many attempts to flash other routes of the grade. Ondra did make it hard for himself though - he had already ticked most of the climbs at the grade!