UKC

The Ticklist #36 Hard Sport, New Trad, International Bouldering and Adam Ondra

© Ted Kingsnorth Collection

This week's ticklist has an eclectic mix of hard sport, new trad, international bouldering and some Adam Ondra...

Ted Kingsnorth ticks Progress at Kilnsey

44-year-old Ted Kingsnorth has ticked Jerry Moffatt's Progress (8c+) at Kilnsey. He first attempted the route in 2017 and has had to be patient with the route that suffers from regular seepage. Ted describes on his Instagram that he nearly didn't set off on his successful redpoint attempt due to warm conditions and heading back on a cooler day - luckily he went for it and put the long term project to bed.

Read more below:

Ferdia Earle climbs new E7/E8

Ferdia Earle has climbed The Certainty of Tides (E7/8 6c) at Achmelvich in the northwest of Scotland. The route takes the blank corner o the right of Flawless (E7 6c) and relies on 'skyhooks, sideways offsets and shallow micronuts' according to her partner, Andy.

War and Peace E5/6 1240ft Craig Dorys girdle traverse repeated after 24 years by Bullock and Lovatt

Nick Bullock and Mick Lovatt have continued their quest to tick Craig Dorys by repeating Pat Littlejohn and Steve Sustad's War and Peace girdle traverse over 2 days. They completed 10 pitches on the first day, then returned to complete the remaining 6 on the following day. The line gets its name from Tolstoy's famously long novel, which is only slightly shorter in terms of the number of pages than the route's length in feet. Given the poor rock quality of Dorys, it's an impressive and gutsy undertaking. The first ascent was achieved over 3 days in 20 hours of climbing time. 

New Font 8C/+ for Giuliano Cameroni

Swiss beast Giuliano Cameroni has climbed a new Font 8C/+ in Gottardo and named it Hazel Grace. The new problem adds a sit start onto an old 8C project of Dave Graham's that Cameroni completed in 2017. Cameroni wrote:

'First day of the season, what a day! A huge mountain of snow was surrounding the bloc, making it magical. Conditions were perfect and no pressure was involved. Checked out the moves, rested for half an hour and climbed it first try. Great moment where everything connected. So cool to have completed the three lines that I tried the most the past few years!'

Matt Fultz climbs Grand Illusion (Font 8C+)

American climber Matt Fultz has climbed his third Font 8C+ with an ascent of Nathaniel Coleman's Grand Illusion in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. He had been working on the problem since early April, building up the necessary fitness required for the 30ft long boulder/route hybrid. He wrote:

Pacing, precision, and micro-beta needed to be so dialled in for me. And of course, as usual, the long fight ended in a pretty casual first try of the night burn. Felt like I could run laps but I think that's the confidence the problem required of me.'

VIDEO: Adam Ondra flashing 9a+

Reel Rock have released the section from their film 'Age of Ondra' which documents him flashing Alex Megos' Supercrackinette at St. LegerFrance. It was the first (and only) flash of a 9a+ and came after many attempts to flash other routes of the grade. Ondra did make it hard for himself though - he had already ticked most of the climbs at the grade!


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3 Jul

I went to do War and Peace with Ian Parnell, shortly after it was first done in the 90s. We got up really early, lowered stashes of water and snacks on ropes at key points along the traverse, headed off along the first pitch, and then ...

... it pissed down and everything got drenched!

I don't remember why we didn't go back for another try, other things got in the way, I suppose. Amazing to hear it's had to wait 24 years for anyone mad and bad enough to repeat it; makes me think we may have got well spanked had we been able to continue! Good effort, Nick & Mick.

7 Jul

If anyone is interested in reading a bit more about The Certainty of Tides (E8 6c) and that crag in general, I've written up a blog with videos:

https://www.molehillsclimbing.co.uk/post/a-woman-in-assynt

7 Jul

Nice one John, I can't imagine two more suitable candidates than Ian and yourself. Good job it rained 😉

Truth be told, having an in-depth knowledge of the crag, the routes, the rock, belays etc, made a massive difference. I'm never going to say a complete one day, on-sight is impossible, I'm sure it is, but as Pat has said, a one day sideascent would be world class, haha, if world class can be attached to shuffling sideways on Doris, not sure it can, plus, if you start sprinting on that crag, well, good luck... 😃

Cheers,

Nick.

7 Jul

Thanks for posting this - that looks like a bloody great FA and it's definitely a great write-up. Good observations on the NC500 too. Congratulations both.

8 Jul

Thank you. On the NC500, it's a little tricky to discuss without coming across elitist or hypocritical, a case of complaining about traffic when you are traffic. But I feel the whole concept encourages an attitude where an 'experience' is just another thing to be consumed, a place just another commodity, and it's very hard not to be affected by this. Something to be discussed more fully elsewhere.

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