17-year-old Josh Ibbertson has made the fifth ascent of Northern Lights (9a) 9a at Kilnsey. The sustained and technical line was bolted and long attempted by Ben Moon, but ultimately first climbed by Steve McClure in 2000. Josh joins an elite group of strong climbers who have ticked the route, alongside McClure, Adam Ondra, Alex Megos and Will Bosi.
© Josh Ibbertson
Josh and his younger brother Jack were born to climbing parents and soared through the grades together as kids. Josh redpointed 8a at age 10 (UKC News), 8a+ at 11, 8c and 8c+ at 13 and 9a at 16 with his ascent of Rainshadow at Malham Cove (UKC News).
Josh first attempted Northern Lights in June, after ticking Progress 8c+, the line directly to the right and the obvious next choice.
On Northern Lights, he told UKC:
"The route is super sustained, so I saw it as a great opportunity to work on my power endurance, which was definitely one of my weaknesses. Obviously with it having so much history, that added to the motivation! Especially belaying Ben Moon and watching him get so close."
Josh didn't do any specific training for the route apart from training on the line itself. He explained:
"Some days I would be too tired, or conditions wouldn't be good enough to redpoint, so I'd just focus on doing links and laps on sections, for training."
Josh fell agonisingly close to the chains a few weeks ago, after the rope became wrapped around his foot. He commented:
"To add to the frustration, the route got soaked a couple of days later. I had to leave it for a while to let it dry."
On Friday, the line finally dried enough to make redpoint attempts. Josh said:
"I was really happy with how the send go went - I felt in control and relaxed meaning I could enjoy the climbing. I even surprised myself by shaking out on what was previously one of the crux moves for me!"
© Josh Ibbertson
A few highlights so far from Josh's summer holidays:
Northern Lights (9a) 9a - Kilnsey (his second 9a after climbing Rainshadow in November 2020)
Wonderwall (8b+) 8b+/8c? (second ascent)- Yew Cogar (video)
Northern Exposure 8b+ -Kilnsey (video)
Helvetia (8b+) 8b+ (second go) – Shipwreck Cove
Air Show (8a+) 8a+ (flash)- Shipwreck Cove
The Puppeteer (8a) 8a (flash)- Kilnsey
Alumni (8a) 8a (flash)- Kilnsey
The Power and the Glory (8a) 8a (flash)- Yew Cogar
And lots some other flashes of 7c+/8a routes
Earlier in the year, Josh ticked Bat Route (8c) 8c and Raining Bats and Dogs (8c) 8c.
Comments
‘Effort, youth’
Well done Josh. Very fine effort.
Good effort. Nice list to be on
Great season Josh, remember its not over till December!!! great to see young climbers ticking hard routes on the crags as well as winning competitions, such a brilliant and diverse sport we have, well done.
Its been awesome seeing you ticking through these testpieces, plenty more to come! I have a small addition to make to the list, Progress 8c+ :) Keep up the great work!!