Vecchio Leone Sit 8C+, for Matt Fultz

© Matt Fultz Climbing

Matt Fultz has made the second ascent of Aidan Roberts' 8C+ boulder, Vecchio Leone Sit, in Brione, Switzerland.

Vecchio Leone Sit is Fultz' seventh 8C+ boulder, and his third in the last twelve months, alongside Brace for the Cure and Moonlight Sonata.

The sit start, which Aidan made the first ascent of in November last year, adds three low percentage moves to Vecchio Leone (f8B), whilst also requiring the climber to enter the pre-existing 8B boulder from a different angle to the stand start.

Both Fultz and Roberts used the same beta for the lower section, the crux of which appears to be keeping tension between a poor left hand crimp and a bunched right foothold, whilst making a powerful bump move with the right hand. The initial discovery of the beta was a collaborative effort, with Roberts and Shawn Raboutou working the line together prior to Roberts' first ascent.

A few days proir to his successful repeat of the boulder, Fultz uploaded a video of an attempt where he managed to climb through the lower section before an unexpected mishap - one that is better off left undescribed - caused him to drop off the boulder. Make sure to turn the sound on for the full explanation.

Speaking about the boulder, Fultz said he was drawn to it because of its beautiful location, the 'incredible quality' of the rock, as well as 'the movement' that it offers, in addition to the fact that the style of the boulder seemed to fit him 'quite well'.

The 8C+ boulder took him just eight working sessions to complete, and is his first of the grade outside of the United States.

Check out the video of Fultz' successful attempt below:

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31 Mar

" testicle went inside me" - that's the best bouldering clip I've ever seen!

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