The fourth round of the 2017 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Hachioji, Tokyo last weekend. 18 year-old Slovenian all-rounder Janja Garnbret won her second World Cup round with a convincing performance, whilst current women's overall leader Shauna Coxsey failed to make the podium, finishing in 4th place. The narrative of the Japanese team being on incredible form continued in this round, with the Japanese comprising four out of the six podium finishers. Russia's Aleksei Rubtsov placed 1st ahead of Tomoa Narasaki and Keita Watabe.
After topping the semi-final rankings, Janja continued her reign in the final round, topping all four boulders. The first problem was rendered obsolete as all six athletes managed to flash the boulder. On the following problems, seasoned competitor Akiyo Noguchi of Japan gave Janja a run for her money in front of a home crowd. The final boulder decided the winner, as Janja topped within 5 attempts to finish ahead of Akiyo. A strong performance from young Japanese climber Miho Nonaka pushed Shauna off the podium on the powerful final boulder. Britain's Michaela Tracy qualified for the semi-finals and placed 10th overall in the semis.
The men's final welcomed a new Japanese finalist once again: Taisei Ishimatsu, who was climbing in his first IFSC World Cup finals. His teammate Tomoa Narasaki topped M1 in front of an ecstatic home crowd, who continued his run of good form on M2 and M3. Russian Aleksei Rubtsov and Nanjing winner Keita Watabe put on the pressure with two tops each, but the podium positions came down to the last problem. Aleksei managed an impressive top and knocked Tomoa into 2nd place.
Keita currently leads the men's overall rankings by 33 points ahead of Aleksei, and Shauna leads Janja by just 8 points in the women's.
The following round will take place in Vail, Colorado on June 9th/10th.
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji, Tokyo (JPN) 2017
WOMENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Janja Garnbret | SLO | 4t8 4b6 | 4t5 4b4 |
2 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 4t8 4b7 | 4t9 4b9 |
3 | Miho Nonaka | JPN | 3t8 4b6 | 3t4 4b5 |
4 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 3t9 4b5 | 2t2 3b3 |
5 | Fanny Gibert | FRA | 3t3 4b4 | 2t6 4b12 |
6 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 2t7 4b5 | 1t1 3b5 |
7 | Chloe Caulier | BEL | 2t7 3b4 | |
8 | Stasa Gejo | SRB | 2t10 4b6 | |
9 | Alma Bestvater | GER | 1t1 4b6 | |
10 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 1t1 4b12 | |
11 | Jain Kim | KOR | 1t1 3b4 | |
12 | Aya Onoe | JPN | 1t1 3b5 | |
12 | Lilli Kiesgen | GER | 1t1 3b5 | |
14 | Sol Sa | KOR | 1t2 4b7 | |
15 | Megan Mascarenas | USA | 1t4 4b7 | |
16 | Anna Stöhr | AUT | 1t4 4b8 | |
17 | Franziska Sterrer | AUT | 1t4 3b7 | |
18 | Monika Retschy | GER | 0t 4b4 | |
19 | Hung Ying Lee | TPE | 0t 3b7 | |
20 | Mei Kotake | JPN | 0t 3b8 | |
21 | Leah Crane | GBR | Qual' 3t4 5b5 |
MENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Aleksei Rubtsov | RUS | 3t3 3b3 | 3t8 4b13 |
2 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 3t5 4b4 | 3t9 4b10 |
3 | Keita Watabe | JPN | 4t13 4b6 | 2t5 3b6 |
4 | Mickael Mawem | FRA | 2t2 4b4 | 1t1 4b8 |
5 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 3t5 4b5 | 1t2 3b5 |
6 | Taisei Ishimatsu | JPN | 3t4 4b14 | 1t3 4b9 |
7 | Jongwon Chon | KOR | 2t2 4b5 | |
8 | Nicolas Pelorson | FRA | 2t3 3b3 | |
9 | Kokoro Fujii | JPN | 2t4 3b3 | |
10 | Jeremy Bonder | FRA | 2t4 3b4 | |
11 | Rei Sugimoto | JPN | 2t6 4b4 | |
12 | Manuel Cornu | FRA | 2t7 3b4 | |
13 | Tyler Landman | GBR | 2t7 3b5 | |
14 | Tsukuru Hori | JPN | 1t1 4b4 | |
14 | Alban Levier | FRA | 1t1 4b4 | |
16 | Gabriele Moroni | ITA | 1t2 4b4 | |
17 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | JPN | 1t2 4b9 | |
18 | Alex Khazanov | ISR | 1t2 3b4 | |
19 | Kaito Watanabe | JPN | 1t3 3b12 | |
20 | David Firnenburg | GER | 1t4 3b6 | |
25 | David Barrans | GBR | Qual' 3t6 4b7 | |
33 | Matthew Cousins | GBR | Qual' 3t4 5b7 | |
47 | Orrin Coley | GBR | Qual' 2t3 2b2 | |
59 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | Qual' 2t11 5b17 |
Watch the finals replay below:
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