Nalle Hukkataival has made the 3rd ascent of Sleepwalker, a Font 8C+ first climbed by Jimmy Webb in December 2018. The problem is in Black Velvet Canyon just outside of Las Vegas and is likely the hardest boulder problem in the US. The three ascents were all achieved in under two months and all three climbers have agreed on a consensus grade of 8C+.
Three ascents of an 8C+ in such a short period of time is an unprecedented feat. The difficulty of each move was estimated by Webb to be 7C to 7C+ with a couple of harder moves thrown in for good measure. Due to differences in reach, Hukkataival was forced to use a friction-dependent sequence that both Webb and Woods could bypass. After multiple unsuccessful attempts over the winter, friction levels and skin condition finally aligned to enable an ascent.
In October 2016, Hukkataival established Burden of Dreams 9A - the first of the grade - at Lappnor, 100km east of Helsinki in Finland. Last month, Charles Albert climbed his project No Kpote Only at Rocher Brûlé in Fontainebleau and gave it a grade of Font 9A, the world's second 9A.
Watch the film of Webb making the first ascent here:
Comments