Lead onsight.

Good pic - is that a side runner though!!!

I was told it was alright when leading it, as its still the same height as the top break. Without it maybe E4?

Awesome run out! This picture make me want to climb it.

Its E2 without the side runner, maybe soft E2 with it from the looks of things. There is a good placement for a nut 0.5 and a nut 0.25 in the middle of the top break. This would never be E4. Even if it is run out, the climbing is straightforward and easy to read on the top section.

This route is deserving of its E35b grade. Credit to Andi Smith who took the photo, nice shot.

How would it be E2 with the side runner?? Have you not seen the run out!!?? You can still deck out from there, wire or no wire!

With a good belayer you would not deck from there. Secondly at the crux you are relatively close to the gear.

True, the crux is well protected. We had a couple of cams in low down just incase a fall so the belayer could run backwards. But without the side runner you probably would deck as the high left runner was psychological. Plus the top section isn't exactly 'easy'.

Looking good Andy!

Nice photo, ill be down to give this a try sometime.

Is that called a run out these days then?

There are two awkward moves in my opinion. First, the undercut move to the first break. Then the final reach to the top. A side runner (cheating) can be placed in Anne at E2 5b. The one on the right you can see in the picture is definitely on route and provides barely adequate pro for the top. It is also in slightly dubious rock so definatly E3 5b. As the guidebook says, feels easy if you're the right shape for the chipped sequence i.e. 5'10" or called Hank.

Actually, I thought he'd placed it in the small crack slight left of there. Just looked closely at the picture.