Nestled between the trad sea cliffs of Pembroke and the riverside crags of the Wye Valley, South Wales offers a vast and diverse playground for sport climbers. For years, sport climbing in the region was largely the domain of locals, a few route developers, and a handful of outsiders. However, with the release of the 2017 Rockfax and recently its second edition and associated digital coverage, the area's well-established and newly developed crags have finally gained the attention they deserve. 

Sport climbing in South Wales takes place on both limestone and sandstone cliffs—some natural, some quarried. The venues span a range of environments, from dramatic sea cliffs to peaceful mountainsides, and from post-industrial sites to UNESCO World Heritage settings. 

Whether you're studying in Cardiff or Swansea, a long-time local, or just passing through en route to Pembroke's trad cliffs, South Wales offers a massive variety of sport climbing. For those traveling along the M4 corridor from London or Bristol, it's an easily accessible destination, packed with well-equipped routes across a range of grades. The region caters to climbers of all levels, with plenty of routes in the 4s and 5s for those just getting started, as well as challenging lines in the 6s, 7s, and 8s for those seeking harder climbs. Below is an outline of 10 of the best crags to give you a feel for what South Wales has to offer, highlighting some of the finest concentrations of routes in the region.

Rhossili Area

A remarkably varied area with numerous sectors and nearly 250 routes across the grades. The location is stunning, with Rhossili's famous beach and Worm's Head geological wonder as a backdrop. The climbing is split between the beachside crags and those on a non-tidal terrace directly above. Classic pitches of all grades are on offer ranging from lower-grade 4s and 5s to top-end challenges in the 7th and 8th grades.

South Wales Sport is included on Rockfax Digital, with additional coverage that isn't contained within the printed guide. Rockfax Digital also includes access to:

• Content from over 52 current print guidebooks
• 80,000+ routes
• 1,600+ crags
• High detail topos, overviews and maps, covering major crags throughout the UK and Europe.

Rockfax have made Rhossili Beach, Gilwern, and Foxhole free to access on Rockfax Digital for the next 30 days.

If you wish to explore these areas free of charge, download the app via the links below.

Rams Grove

This relatively new area offers some fantastic sectors, many of which are well-sheltered and receive plenty of sunshine, making it an ideal spot for climbing during the cooler months. Whether you're looking for a quick session in the sun or a more challenging day, this area has something to offer for climbers of all levels. While some of the rock in the newest sectors requires a bit of caution, the bolting is solid. Situated right next to Third Sister, it's easy to combine the two areas for a day of climbing,

Third Sister

The Third Sister is a striking stretch of coastline, offering a collection of stunning limestone sport crags. Known for its variety, this area boasts an impressive range of routes, particularly in the higher grades, as well as some beautifully varied mid-grade options. There's been significant development here in recent years, with several excellent new routes added to the mix. The rock quality is good, and while the cliffs have a sea cliff vibe, most of them are not affected by tidal restrictions, making them more accessible than some other nearby coastal spots. Just along the coast, you'll find the hidden gem of Free Luncher's Zawn a secluded spot packed with fantastic grade 6s, perfect for climbers looking for a quiet day out.

Foxhole

A Gower favourite that attracts plenty of teams looking to get to grips with some seriously steep limestone. The location is quiet, sheltered (from wind and rain) and not far from the cafe, so unless there has been lots of rain it is a very reliable year-round venue. There are easier pitches at the margins of the crag but the main draw is the line-up of grade 6s, 7s and 8s.

Gilwern

A very popular, spring through to autumn destination that boasts 200 plus routes mainly in the 5th and 6th grade, located on some quarried limestone escarpments high above Abergavenny. A fine place to get plenty of mileage in whilst taking in the expansive view out over the Usk Valley to the Black Mountains.

Dinas Rock

Dinas Rock is widely regarded as one of the premier high-grade sport climbing destinations in South Wales. The crag features stunning walls of high-quality limestone, adorned with overlaps, roofs, subtle grooves, and water-worn features, creating a challenging yet rewarding environment for climbers. While Dinas Rock is best known for its tough, high-grade lines, not all of the climbing is in the upper range, and the Roadside Crags are home to some more accessible routes in the lower and mid-grades. Whether you're aiming for a hard project or simply looking to enjoy a scenic day of sport climbing, Dinas Rock has something for everyone.

Witches Point

The limestone headland of Witches Point is a premier hard sport climbing destination, offering challenging routes in a quintessential beachside setting. In summer the atmosphere takes on a relaxed, holiday vibe, with the beach and surf adding to the overall charm. The cliffs at Witches Point feature excellent rock, with a wide range of climbing styles ranging from powerful, dynamic moves to more technical and sustained routes. Whether you're after a brute-force challenge or something more subtle, there's something here for everyone. However, there are a couple of downsides: the crag is tidal, which can limit your options depending on the time of day, and conditions can be frustrating during warm, humid weather, as the rock tends to hold onto moisture. Despite these limitations, Witches Point remains a must-visit for climbers looking for high-quality sport climbing in one of the most scenic seaside locations in South Wales.

Navigation Quarry

Located high on the quiet moorland above the busy Taff valley, this is a popular and picturesque sandstone sport climbing spot. The quarry's standout feature is a stunning vertical wall of high-quality sandstone. The rock here is well-weathered, providing predominantly fantastic wall climbing. Navigation Quarry makes an excellent choice for those seeking routes in the 6th grade, but there are also easier and more challenging lines scattered throughout, making it worth exploring for climbers of different levels. This is a sheltered and tranquil venue that also benefits from a sunny aspect and a clean, open base where you can picnic and/or relax between climbs.

Sirhowy

The Rust Curtain wall with its plethora of grade 7s is one of the finest quarried sandstone faces in South Wales, made all the more special due to its peaceful and secluded setting. The crag even features its own picnic area, complete with benches and tables, making it an ideal spot to relax between climbs or enjoy a meal with a view. For those seeking slightly easier routes, the Western Wall provides a good number of excellent lines on some of the best rock in the area. In recent times the whole crag was put up for sale and a local led campaign crowd-sourced a significant amount of money that would have been enough to buy the site. However technical problems meant that a deal could not be completed. Nevertheless the new owner of the site has been very positive about climbing continuing, and the crag is now being re-equipped, new signs installed and the area tidied up.

Tirpentwys

Hidden at the end of a peaceful valley, this charming quarried crag offers a tranquil climbing experience. The routes tend to be sustained and pumpy, featuring a good mix of crimps, jugs, and cracks that will test endurance and technique. The base of the cliff is flat and grassy, providing a comfortable space to relax and unwind between climbs. On a sunny day, it's a fantastic spot to enjoy the surroundings and recharge between routes. Whether you're after a challenging session or a quiet day of climbing, this crag offers a perfect blend of good rock, climbs and a peaceful ambience.

Guidebook

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.

More info