/ First E3 options in Pembroke?

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Jon de Leyser - on 20 Apr 2019

Hi all. I'm looking for some good first E3 options in Pembroke. Like the look of Space Cadet. Any others come to mind? Thanks

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AJM - on 20 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

I don't really have a wide base to compare from, somehow I didn't go to Pembroke much whilst regularly climbing E3, but Mysteries (E3 5c) has only a short hard section and is very well positioned.

My friend did Zeppelin (E3 5c) as his first, although I imagine that only works if that sort of terrain is your strength.

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Michael Porter - on 20 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

The butcher springs to mind, close to space cadet.  Also I found forbidden fruit at st govans east reasonable and remember being able to back up the peg with rps/micro wires and small cams.

mysteries in stennis ford was amenable at the grade, tough start then e1 to the top.

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Jon de Leyser - on 20 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

Brill, thanks both.

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In reply to Jon de Leyser:

Butcher is famously soft. Obviously that.

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Max factor - on 20 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

I'd you like the look of space cadet, why not? Steady enough and warrants the grade, whereas the Butcher will always be regarded as borderline.

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Jon Stewart - on 20 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

E3 is such a good grade in Pembroke.

If you want a total soft-touch, Range Rider (E3 5c) is piss. Ghost Ship (E3 5c) is an excellent route that warrants E3 but isn't high in the grade. Unlike most, I really struggle with Mysteries (E3 5c) even though it's just one move - first time, I gave up and had to do a scramble of shame up the back of the zawn! Quiet Waters Direct (E3 5c) is pretty cool - not too hard, but it's got a run-out (and the rock goes shitty at the top, it ain't over after the crux). 

Ones to watch for are Zeppelin (E3 5c) - I onsighted it, just, but then couldn't second it a year or two later. It looks like a sustained stamina-fest but it isn't, it's just one hard move on the crux. Star Gate (E3 5c) is awesome and not too hard...but it is very, very committing and not a very sensible place to push your grade. Even more crazy is Gravy Train (E3 5c) - when you're in the swing of committing E3s this is one not to miss. The one I came closest to falling off was Swordfish (E3 5c) - it's quite a short hard section, but no one move wonder. Again, very committing, very tidal, very memorable.

Then there's the tough ones...

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Jon de Leyser - on 21 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

Thanks all.

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seankenny - on 21 Apr 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Then there's the tough ones...

Spill the beans on those Jon..!

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mountain.martin - on 21 Apr 2019
In reply to seankenny:

Pleasuredome?

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Jon Stewart - on 22 Apr 2019
In reply to seankenny:

> Spill the beans on those Jon..!

I didn't find Pleasure Dome too bad, but I was climbing the best I ever have at the time - it's an obvious one not to recommend as a first E3. I never fancied Test Case because it looks f*ckin'orrible. Seconded it last year and was proved right. 

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