UKC

Hi all. I'm looking for some good first E3 options in Pembroke. Like the look of Space Cadet. Any others come to mind? Thanks

I don't really have a wide base to compare from, somehow I didn't go to Pembroke much whilst regularly climbing E3, but Mysteries (E3 5c) has only a short hard section and is very well positioned.

My friend did Zeppelin (E3 5c) as his first, although I imagine that only works if that sort of terrain is your strength.

The butcher springs to mind, close to space cadet.  Also I found forbidden fruit at st govans east reasonable and remember being able to back up the peg with rps/micro wires and small cams.

mysteries in stennis ford was amenable at the grade, tough start then e1 to the top.

Brill, thanks both.

Butcher is famously soft. Obviously that.

I'd you like the look of space cadet, why not? Steady enough and warrants the grade, whereas the Butcher will always be regarded as borderline.

E3 is such a good grade in Pembroke.

If you want a total soft-touch, Range Rider (E3 5c) is piss. Ghost Ship (E3 5c) is an excellent route that warrants E3 but isn't high in the grade. Unlike most, I really struggle with Mysteries (E3 5c) even though it's just one move - first time, I gave up and had to do a scramble of shame up the back of the zawn! Quiet Waters Direct (E3 5c) is pretty cool - not too hard, but it's got a run-out (and the rock goes shitty at the top, it ain't over after the crux). 

Ones to watch for are Zeppelin (E3 5c) - I onsighted it, just, but then couldn't second it a year or two later. It looks like a sustained stamina-fest but it isn't, it's just one hard move on the crux. Star Gate (E3 5c) is awesome and not too hard...but it is very, very committing and not a very sensible place to push your grade. Even more crazy is Gravy Train (E3 5c) - when you're in the swing of committing E3s this is one not to miss. The one I came closest to falling off was Swordfish (E3 5c) - it's quite a short hard section, but no one move wonder. Again, very committing, very tidal, very memorable.

Then there's the tough ones...

Thanks all.

Spill the beans on those Jon..!

Pleasuredome?

I didn't find Pleasure Dome too bad, but I was climbing the best I ever have at the time - it's an obvious one not to recommend as a first E3. I never fancied Test Case because it looks f*ckin'orrible. Seconded it last year and was proved right.