UKC

Hi 

I have a trip to The Roaches planned for the summer.

I know there is bouldering and trad there.

Any advice works better helpful.

A great place to develop technique through bouldering and work on head  game?

S

Just climb stuff. Start with the smallest easiest boulder you can find and take it from there.

Thanks.

Pine Tree Slabs was suggested. Is this for the head game?

S

Pine Tree Slabs is really good if you're interested in having a go at any trad routes with similar climbing. A few years ago I was there with a mate and we took some time out of routes to do some bouldering on those slabs around lunch. We did Valkyrie after, and both noted that the time building confidence on the pebbly slabs had been really useful for the flake downclimb on the second pitch.

Visit the skyline if you want to explore bouldering and shorter easier routes. Much less busy than upper and lower tier.

Hi Paul.

Are you refering to problems such as Pining for More (f6A+) ? Did you do @Pine Martin (f5)?

Sav

Hi Sav. As I understand it you will be with someone I know. Just let them give you ongoing advice as they find you. Asking advice here (unless someone is replying who has met you and seen you move on rock) is all but useless. Having climbed with you, my guess is you might really struggle with some lower grade friction slab problems that don't suit your particular foot mobility. Certainly, quite a few grades given will feel very different to your experience, in relative terms, given your physical issues, even if you are climbing confidently. Have a great day... it's a lovely place.

I am for checking out multiple venues.👍🏻

Sav

Hi Steve.

I think it is Grimer, your mate - the staffs legend - and myself who are going.

I was communicating with him till the other day then his IG account went weird.

Sav

Hi Paul.

The description of Valkyrie (VS 4c) doesn't say anything about pebbles but there are some E grade routes that have pebbles.

Sav

It’s not about the pebbles per se, but:

the time building confidence on the pebbly slabs

…i.e. working on your headgame, which would seem to fit in with your objectives

Hi Sav

If you’re in no rush when you’re there maybe try spend a few hours on the f3-f5’s on the Big Bloc/Blister slab/Pine Tree Slab.

Should hopefully build a bit of confidence as you work through them and lots of mileage on rock can only be a good thing! 

Hi

Anything to do with Mountain Training RCI/RCDI schemes? I think f3 is around UK tech 4a and f5 is around UK tech 5a. The guy I am climbing with suggested V0 and V1.

Mileage is great for endurance and yes confidence.

Sav

Hi Steve.

I sent you an email. He likes to get me psyched about some big E grade route called 'Barriers'.

Sav

I get you.

You need a strong head for nails run out routes 😀

Sav

Don't worry about the grades. The rocks which "justsomeclimber" has suggested are perfect for what you're after.

When you're done climbing check out lud's church.

Have a good trip

Lol. 😆 Access Banned! 

Thanks 

Sav

Hi Andi.

Sadly, I don't think it is happening as Mark and Grimer have problems with their socials. 😞😔

Sav

Hi Savvas

If you can get yourself to Buxton by train, then I can take you on a visit to the Roaches. Best to make it on a weekday, & I do have some commitments in August.....

Nik

Hi Nik

Train from London Euston to Buxton - weekdays are best for me anyway.

S

Thanks for helping Sav again Nik.

For walking? I didn't mean climbing

For walking, I don't think so.

From the website, the walk looks great.

Thanks for clarifying.

S

UKC link

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/luds_church-22425/

Good oh. Email me a selection of dates that might suit you, & I can let you know what works for me too, & we can put in a request for fair weather 🙏🤞😉

Hi Paul.

You could say Pine Martin (f5) is similar in style to Ackit (HVS 5b). I am not sure if you can compare Squeezy Slab (f5+) to some of the big E grade routes there - it is smearing.

The holds of Pining for More (f6A+) are definite pebbles.

Sav

I don't think I have your email.

Go to Nik‘s profile and click on “Email user” under his name

I know how to do this big sometimes it doesn't work.

Sav

Nik’s would seem to be working 

It works for me Sav.... I do get email through ukc. Give it a try. Nik 

Did you get a message from me?

Sav

I did not Sav. Unusual.... so try me at [email protected]. Nik

I'll try 

Did you get an email from me?

I did, & I have replied

Got it!

Routes and problems of all grades. I think it is known it's very highball mini routes such as Track and Counterstroke.

Sav

I have checked it out on here and in Western Grit. I think it is known for its short hard routes .

Sav.

P.S. 

Did you attend a workshop at Beacon Climbing last Tuesday on Injury Prevention?

If you are BD Power Lifter.

I have sent you an email.

Project route for pushing down and texture holds for grit slabs F6c+.

S

Bring a pad if you’re bouldering solo, and maybe a buddy if you want to push things trad-wise — and keep an eye on the weather, it can shift quickly out there. Have a great trip

Thanks 

Hiya.

I have a Highball project for JP....

..... Art Nouveau (E6 6b). 👍🏻

Sav

That's the best advice for a new climber that I've ever read.