UKC

Spending a month in the alps this summer, for a first timer it is all a bit daunting an don't know where to start. 

Can anyone recommend easy day excursions in the mountains? Trad climb mainly, done a fair bit in uk mountains, relatively fit and will be doing an alpine course the first week. 

Nothing too daunting, just fun days out with crampons on, an axe and a small rack. (With a partner)

Cheers 

In reply to Sabilly1:

Which month you are going could make a big difference, conditions in July and August have been terrible in recent years. The Alps is rapidly changing, things we would have recommended a few years could well be unclimbable during what was the normal summer season until recently.

If you're going on an Alpine course your best bet would be to speak to the instructors who will have a better idea of how conditions are panning out this year.

In reply to Sabilly1:

Chamonix rock fax is worth looking through for ideas as a starter.

In reply to Sabilly1:

As PEC has said, check up to date conditions and talk to your course providers. Here are four good sources of information for the Chamonix area:

https://www.chamoniarde.com/en/mountain-topics/mountain-conditions#AFcqsEti...

https://www.chamoniarde.com/en/mountain-topics/route-reports

Visit the Guides office in the centre of Chamonix, near the church. Lots of great info., they are very helpful and speak good English if your French is not great

Talk to the guardians in any huts you visit.

I can see from your log book that you rock climb, have you done any winter stuff? Not knowing your abilities, knowledge and skills here are some options you may find useful.

1  A day practicing crampon skills on the Mer de Glace ( dry glacier ). You can also set up top / bottom ropes on slopes of different angles ( if you know how ). Really nail those crampon skills going up, down, sideways, along narrow crests. You may find the Bruce Goodlad book useful to see what to practice.

2 You can bivvy in the Aiguilles Rouges dusk to dawn in luxury ( if you use uplifts ). From there you can access all sorts of routes. Bolted rock climbs, though some are sparingly bolted, plus largely trad routes. For an alpine feel consider the Crochues Traverse or the Perrons. It is possible to link several different climbs together to get a feel for a longer alpine day. Depending on when you go / conditions there are often some good snow patches to practice snow anchors if you need to.

3 Depending on how much climbing you have done, some people find doing some of the valley sport routes useful ( usually on rest or dodgy weather days ) to get slick with general movement skills / ropework / abseiling etc. They can get busy so an early start can be useful.

4 Walking up to the Orny Hut and staying there for a couple of days is a great option. Lots of shortish rock routes easily accessible, often a quieter corner too.

5 Walking up to the Albert Premier Hut for a couple of nights gives access to all sorts of routes; there is usually something in condition here. Easy access to wet glacier to hone skills before you set off on routes. The Aiguille de Tour, Tete Blanche and Petite Fourche are popular.

6 Take the lift up to the Torino Hut to stay for a few nights. Lots of shorter easy access routes around but make sure you check conditions first. Peaks such as Toule, Entreves, Flambeau plus many other options too.

Finally, I would also recommend being prepared to visit other areas too. Go where the conditions / weather are best. From Chamonix other areas are easily accessible such as Sass Fee, Sass Grund, Zermatt and many others. Have fun!

In reply to Sabilly1:

are you camping at Les Chosalets?  We have a big group (around 40 at the moment) linked to Birmingham University there in June/early July.  Lots of people who haven't been to the Alps before. I thought Mark Hawards post was very sensible and useful.

In reply to Mark Haward:

Thanks a lot for such a detailed reply! Will take the info on board. 

Appreciate it 

In reply to Sabilly1:

check out the lists on this page

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/funalps/

In reply to Sabilly1:

Aiguille de L'M North North East Ridge.

In reply to Crest Jewel:

Nota bene: The M is a very nice route and not serious but a well known old style sandbag. The wide thrutchy groove graded 4c in some guidebooks often offers a struggle to climbers who do 5c/6a on more conventional rock. Not a brilliant suggestion for someone looking for an easy day out! A quick glance at Rockfax offers dozens of more sensible choices.

In reply to Sabilly1:

I know they are crowded and obvious but the traverse of Pointe Lachenal and the Arete a Laurence from the Midi will give you a delightful day out at just the grade you seem to be looking for. Over at Heilbronner, the same applies to the pleasant scrambles up the Aiguille de Toule East Face and the Petit Flambeau which gave me a nice solo day out last summer (last outing before Covid wiped out the rest of my summer, alas!). Very safe and unserious but in glorious scenery.

I havent been up there yet but going up to the Conscrit Hut would give you nice easy routes on Mont Tondu and Aiguille de Berangere, with easy rock and a bit of snow to crampon about on.

Have fun!

In reply to Alfrede:

They don’t come much easier. Easy access, easy route, easy descent. What is conventional rock if glorious Chamonix granite isn’t? Climbing is about dealing with what’s in front of you, not what you’re best at. If you want sandbags, admittedly at a much higher grade, try Piola,s slab climbs; unfathomable and run out to most Brits, but educating and enjoyable in the extreme.

In reply to Alfrede:

In 1978 (my first Chamonix season) Aiguille de L'M was considered accessible climbing at a reasonable standard. The North North East Ridge was probably inspired by Gaston Rebuffet's "100 best climbs" (hopefully you've had the good fortune to climb some of them!). That season I climbed the American Direct/West Face Route ED1 6b with Chris Griffiths. Therefore,  the North North East Ridge was relatively straightforward. I even guided two beginners on that route who did not struggle with the grade. I believe it is a considered objective for an aspiring Alpinist who has had a grounding in British climbing and some Scottish winter climbing. 

Of course in 1978 Jean-Claude Droyer was at the forefront of the emergence of modern French free climbing. Prior to that "French Free" was the norm. 

It wouldn't surprise me if now the North North East Ridge is retrobolted next to perfectly protective cracks (sandbag appears to be contentious). I suspect you might not have done this route and give alleged 3rd party accounts of the grade.

In reply to Alfrede:

I see from your Log book that you have done this route and that you found it hard for the grade and extrapolated on that basis that others might find it hard too.

In reply to Sabilly1:

As a punter, I enjoyed a (guided) trip up Asia / Neiges de Kilimanjaro (a 'mash up' the guide said) from the Flegere cable car and then a chair lift.

He glissaded down the snow slope of the Grande Floria in descent as if on skis.   I walked

A good day outing (this was July)

(edit - bolted in places of course so perhaps not what the OP is after...)

In reply to Crest Jewel:

I soloed it, also in 78, I was wearing what were virtually walking boots and thought the 4c crack was bl**dy desperate!

In reply to Crest Jewel: I responded as I did because the route is widely regarded by many ascenders as very tough for its grade in a style no longer fashionable. I thought the crux around 5c and struggled as I hadn’t climbed for months and was recovering from illness (and probably incubating Covid which hit me a couple of days later.) My main point, which still stands, is that it was a brain dead and unhelpful suggestion if you take the trouble to look at the original post. 

In reply to Sabilly1:

Bit off the beaten track, but the Aiguille du Moine (satellite of the Vertes) is a great expedition. First day you spend getting to the Couvercle hut (cross the Mer du Glace from Montenvers, then a very steep climb, partly Via Ferrata) and watch the evening light on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses; 2nd day you climb the mountain (ca. 3400m), easy normal route, and there´s the Contamine (6a+) if you´re feeling ambitious); then either another evening at the hut or back down to the valley. Relative solitude is guaranteed!

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55198/en/aiguille-du-moine-e-face-contami...

In reply to Alfrede:

I agree with you Alf: its hard unless you like gritstone off widths (I dont)

In reply to McHeath:

You can day trip the Moine if you're fast enough to make the last train down, but I'd agree it's a good location. I like the hut, usually decent food, amazing views with tons of rock to go at, and that's ignoring the bigger routes on the 4000ers, although Moine Ridge is a very worthy day out if they were doing ok (I'd imagine in these leaner times Whymper couloir is more fun now).