UKC

Crack climbing in portland?

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 Bergen1backer 16 Aug 2020

Can anyone recommend some good crack sport climbs on portland. 6b and below preferably, although could try something harder. 

 JIMBO 16 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

Consommé (6a+)

Gaze of the Gorgon (6a+)

Two to start you off..

 Donotello 16 Aug 2020
In reply to JIMBO:

Those are more layback flakes really. Not sure there’s anything that would prepare you for classic crack climbing. 

Not sure there’s really much bolted crack in the UK they tend to be left traditional. 

2
 petegunn 16 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

Chalkie and the Hex 5 (5c)

Thin fingers!?

Best Fingers Forward F6c at Wallsend South for something harder with thin fingers!

Post edited at 21:00
 petegunn 16 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

Forgot to add 

Jam (4c)

For hand / fist 

Post edited at 20:47
 Paul Hy 16 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

Try the peak district and some gritstone!

2
 TobyA 16 Aug 2020
In reply to Paul Hy:

For good sport crack climbing? Try reading the post more carefully!

Bergen1backer, I've done almost nothing in Portland but I have done a bolted crack at the Cuttings. It was like 4+ or something. Amusingly lots of comments in the database were about it being hard, which just totally played into my southerners-can't-jam stereotypes, because it was super easy.

 monkey man 16 Aug 2020
 petegunn 16 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

Another one next to mothers milk

Do You Like Our Owls? (6b)

Post edited at 23:17
 Donotello 17 Aug 2020
In reply to monkey man:

This looks good will have to check it out. 

 steve taylor 17 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

Best Fingers Forward (6c+)

A bit harder than you've asked for, but requires some crack climbing.

 Michael Hood 17 Aug 2020
In reply to TobyA:

That was probably Jam (4c), but it really didn't need to be retro bolted, although I suppose that would have made it rather different to the other routes now there.

Was MVS 4c when I did it in the late 70s a long time before bolts came to Portland.

 TobyA 17 Aug 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

I have done that one but it was Chalkie and the Hex 5 (5c) that seemed much easier than its given grade.

 CurlyStevo 18 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/blacknor_central-261/the_wrecked_f...
 

not far away there are a few bolted ones in winspit and also hedbury quarries, jumping the gun, jargon eater and unseen ripples of the pebble are all worthwhile bolted crack climbs.

 CurlyStevo 18 Aug 2020
In reply to Bergen1backer:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/blacknor_central-261/the_wrecked_f...
 

not far away there are a few bolted ones in winspit and also hedbury quarries, jumping the gun, jargon eater and unseen ripples of the pebble are all worthwhile bolted crack climbs.


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