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So upto date my best lead is a VS on-sight, not that it was at the limit of my ability but just because that's what I've done.
Anyway, this summer I'm going to want to take on my first E1, I climb almost solely in the Lake District and want to know if anyone knows of a good E1.
I'm not after an easy or short climb just a good solid this is an E1 no more no less.
An ideal location would be near some easier climbs as my climbing partner will not be wanting to climb E grades anytime soon.
Anyway, this summer I'm going to want to take on my first E1, I climb almost solely in the Lake District and want to know if anyone knows of a good E1.
I'm not after an easy or short climb just a good solid this is an E1 no more no less.
An ideal location would be near some easier climbs as my climbing partner will not be wanting to climb E grades anytime soon.
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Praying Mantis - best of a clutch of E1s I led in one wonderful week in the Lakes between jobs.
I also enjoyed Raindrop, which is much more roadside iirc, for its big pitch. But it felt a little bit tottery (I didn't totally trust the rock in other words), and I seem to remember being glad I wasn't new to the grade.
Of the others I did, many had runouts that aren't ideal for the first of the grade, or weren't super classic.
I recommend ticking off an assortment of quality HVS's first, and the Lakes has plenty. Lakeland Cragsman was one I remember but probs just coz we had a nice day there. If you think they're too easy then good, it won't take you long to tick off a dozen if you can cruise up 4 a day.
ps I'm curious what your planned lead-up / training for this goal E1 is?
Post edited at 09:59
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In reply to Davidwi:
Shepherd's is probably the obvious answer, with lots of low-grade routes for your mate and plenty of quality E1s: Conclusion (E1 5b) is one that I'd definitely recommend as being reasonable for the grade (a lot seem to think that it's soft but it's certainly worth E1, I'd say), and there are lots of other classics to go at at E1. Finale (HVS 5a) at HVS would probably make a good warmup/confidence-builder - masses of good gear but nice and pumpy, so if you get up it clean you're likely ready for E1.
Shepherd's is probably the obvious answer, with lots of low-grade routes for your mate and plenty of quality E1s: Conclusion (E1 5b) is one that I'd definitely recommend as being reasonable for the grade (a lot seem to think that it's soft but it's certainly worth E1, I'd say), and there are lots of other classics to go at at E1. Finale (HVS 5a) at HVS would probably make a good warmup/confidence-builder - masses of good gear but nice and pumpy, so if you get up it clean you're likely ready for E1.
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In reply to Davidwi:
Also on Shepard's, Aros is a lovely long pitch that certainly isn't hard for the grade. Seem to remember that the crucial gear to protect the lower crux took a bit of working out, so if you're gear placements are not your strong point, it might not be such a good idea.
Also on Shepard's, Aros is a lovely long pitch that certainly isn't hard for the grade. Seem to remember that the crucial gear to protect the lower crux took a bit of working out, so if you're gear placements are not your strong point, it might not be such a good idea.
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In reply to mountain.martin:
If you're strong, The Bludgeon on Shepherd's is straightforward. E is for effort in this case.
If you're strong, The Bludgeon on Shepherd's is straightforward. E is for effort in this case.
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In reply to Droyd:
Conclusion (E1 5b) is the one, butch start to a rest good gear lovely climbing to the belay/abseil & like Droyd says lots of classic easier routes!
Although Finale (HVS 5a) is desperate! harder than the e1 to its right Aaros (E1 5b) which is fantastic but with a slightly pokey start, once established on the slab the gear is brilliant.
Other good (safe) options would be:
Capella (E1 5b) on Pavey 2 nice pitches both worth e1 with good belays & excellent gear, awesome to link in with Golden Slipper (HVS 5a) which is a nice HVS with some fiddly gear, plenty of other good routes at lower grades.
Razor Crack (E1 5b) on neckband an awesome single pitch crag with some (not a lot) easier routes nice VS & good HVS's Razor crack though is well protected with butch thuggy climbing on good holds & jams.
Whit's End Direct (E1 5b) a magnificent pitch with good but small gear with the crux on the slab well below the roof, loads of brilliant lower grade climbs such as North West Arete (VS 4b) which can be climbed as the approach, or linked in with 'F' Route (VS 4c) ...awesome, what's not to like!
the list is massive!
Conclusion (E1 5b) is the one, butch start to a rest good gear lovely climbing to the belay/abseil & like Droyd says lots of classic easier routes!
Although Finale (HVS 5a) is desperate! harder than the e1 to its right Aaros (E1 5b) which is fantastic but with a slightly pokey start, once established on the slab the gear is brilliant.
Other good (safe) options would be:
Capella (E1 5b) on Pavey 2 nice pitches both worth e1 with good belays & excellent gear, awesome to link in with Golden Slipper (HVS 5a) which is a nice HVS with some fiddly gear, plenty of other good routes at lower grades.
Razor Crack (E1 5b) on neckband an awesome single pitch crag with some (not a lot) easier routes nice VS & good HVS's Razor crack though is well protected with butch thuggy climbing on good holds & jams.
Whit's End Direct (E1 5b) a magnificent pitch with good but small gear with the crux on the slab well below the roof, loads of brilliant lower grade climbs such as North West Arete (VS 4b) which can be climbed as the approach, or linked in with 'F' Route (VS 4c) ...awesome, what's not to like!
the list is massive!
Post edited at 10:40
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In reply to Scott Quinn:
I believe they are conveniently collated in a series of books arranged by crag and complete with systems for sorting them by quality and relative difficulty.
> the list is massive!
I believe they are conveniently collated in a series of books arranged by crag and complete with systems for sorting them by quality and relative difficulty.
Post edited at 10:55
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In reply to Siderunner:
The crux ofPraying Mantis I recall as rather polished and in my opinion not one to build confidence on. Lakeland Cragsman could be considered rather easy for HVS and not really a good preperation for E1. Possibly Neckband crag would be good bet with a 3* HVS to warm up on, with E1`s to go on if the force is strong.
I have it on good authority the best E1 in the lakes is CB with the Nazgul finish. But maybe not the best to start on.
The crux ofPraying Mantis I recall as rather polished and in my opinion not one to build confidence on. Lakeland Cragsman could be considered rather easy for HVS and not really a good preperation for E1. Possibly Neckband crag would be good bet with a 3* HVS to warm up on, with E1`s to go on if the force is strong.
I have it on good authority the best E1 in the lakes is CB with the Nazgul finish. But maybe not the best to start on.
In reply to Davidwi:
Some of those recommendations are nasty and polished. Shepherds routes are relatively undergraded and attract a lot of failures. Try The Rack HVS on Reecastle, Zoar on Castle Crag, both well-protected and less polished. Best E1 for adventure is Totalitarian but you need to be in a drought and midge-free. Yew Crag Knotts Buttermere has some good stiff E1s, likewise Miners Crag some new stuff. Plenty at E1 on Castle Rock south and Falcon, Bleak Howe, Dow, Pavey as recommended, so many more elsewhere.
> So upto date my best lead is a VS on-sight, not that it was at the limit of my ability but just because that's what I've done.Anyway, this summer I'm going to want to take on my first E1, I climb almost solely in the Lake District and want to know if anyone knows of a good E1.I'm not after an easy or short climb just a good solid this is an E1 no more no less.An ideal location would be near some easier climbs as my climbing partner will not be wanting to climb E grades anytime soon.
Some of those recommendations are nasty and polished. Shepherds routes are relatively undergraded and attract a lot of failures. Try The Rack HVS on Reecastle, Zoar on Castle Crag, both well-protected and less polished. Best E1 for adventure is Totalitarian but you need to be in a drought and midge-free. Yew Crag Knotts Buttermere has some good stiff E1s, likewise Miners Crag some new stuff. Plenty at E1 on Castle Rock south and Falcon, Bleak Howe, Dow, Pavey as recommended, so many more elsewhere.
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In reply to Davidwi:
I'm no Lakes connoisseur and these may be obvious suggestions but...
I really enjoyed Arcturus (E1 5b) and Capella (E1 5b) at Pavey Ark. As far as I can remember they were both well protected (although some care was required to protect the second on a traverse) with excellent, fun and fairly reasonable climbing.
If you're flying and find them too easy, Aardvark (E1 5c) just above the rake was also great, but it had one hard and powerful, well-protected move on P1, before an easier, more run-out P2.
Have fun,
D.
I'm no Lakes connoisseur and these may be obvious suggestions but...
I really enjoyed Arcturus (E1 5b) and Capella (E1 5b) at Pavey Ark. As far as I can remember they were both well protected (although some care was required to protect the second on a traverse) with excellent, fun and fairly reasonable climbing.
If you're flying and find them too easy, Aardvark (E1 5c) just above the rake was also great, but it had one hard and powerful, well-protected move on P1, before an easier, more run-out P2.
Have fun,
D.
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In reply to Davidwi:
Looking at the previous suggestions my observations are: in my experience and opinion Shepherd's Crag gradings are hard and the rock is often polished; I thought Aaros was hard for E1 and Conclusion isn't easy either. Still in Borrowdale, Praying Mantis has a hard slippery crux on the first pitch - wouldn't be my recommendation, good climb though it is.
Having done Scafell Central Buttress in it's original state and more recently followed it as it now is, I'd say it's a not well protected E1 (the leader that day is the best runner finder/placer I know). If you'd like the kudos of a first E1 on Scafell maybe Leverage?
I think Gimmer Crag, as already suggested, is a good bet. Gimmer String and the aforementioned Whit's End Direct, perhaps approached via Crystal might be reasonable suggestions, and of course there is a wealth of good climbing at all grades.
If it has to be roadside you could do worse than Crypt Direct at Quayfoot Buttress. Fill in with the brilliant Hard VS Mandrake, and with Quayfoot Buttress and Aberration for the "non E" member of the party, you have a good day 3 minutes from the car. With strength of will you could even resist the temptation to chase Luccini's ice cream van up the valley and nip up to Black Crag for Mortician, one of the best Hard VSs in Borrowdale.
Sergeant Crag Slabs has a choice for you (some not quite deserving as many stars) but nowt under VS for your partner. Shelter Crag is in the same category, and anyway is a long walk. Esk Buttress has Red Edge and Grand Slam for instance, and don't miss Trespasser Groove at Hard VS, plus wonderful Severes and is my favourite Lakeland crag - sunny and remote.
If you can get it dry Pillar Rock has wonderful climbs for everybody. Take a bike.
NB - I've a feeling I know who you are - do I?
Looking at the previous suggestions my observations are: in my experience and opinion Shepherd's Crag gradings are hard and the rock is often polished; I thought Aaros was hard for E1 and Conclusion isn't easy either. Still in Borrowdale, Praying Mantis has a hard slippery crux on the first pitch - wouldn't be my recommendation, good climb though it is.
Having done Scafell Central Buttress in it's original state and more recently followed it as it now is, I'd say it's a not well protected E1 (the leader that day is the best runner finder/placer I know). If you'd like the kudos of a first E1 on Scafell maybe Leverage?
I think Gimmer Crag, as already suggested, is a good bet. Gimmer String and the aforementioned Whit's End Direct, perhaps approached via Crystal might be reasonable suggestions, and of course there is a wealth of good climbing at all grades.
If it has to be roadside you could do worse than Crypt Direct at Quayfoot Buttress. Fill in with the brilliant Hard VS Mandrake, and with Quayfoot Buttress and Aberration for the "non E" member of the party, you have a good day 3 minutes from the car. With strength of will you could even resist the temptation to chase Luccini's ice cream van up the valley and nip up to Black Crag for Mortician, one of the best Hard VSs in Borrowdale.
Sergeant Crag Slabs has a choice for you (some not quite deserving as many stars) but nowt under VS for your partner. Shelter Crag is in the same category, and anyway is a long walk. Esk Buttress has Red Edge and Grand Slam for instance, and don't miss Trespasser Groove at Hard VS, plus wonderful Severes and is my favourite Lakeland crag - sunny and remote.
If you can get it dry Pillar Rock has wonderful climbs for everybody. Take a bike.
NB - I've a feeling I know who you are - do I?
Post edited at 12:33
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In reply to Davidwi:
Capella is the best easier E1 I've done in the Lakes and it's more balanced in terms of difficulty than Arcturus, which is also a good route. Do Not Direct (E1 5b) on White Gill was my first Lakes E1 and has 2 quality pitches, with P1 being the crux.
Capella is the best easier E1 I've done in the Lakes and it's more balanced in terms of difficulty than Arcturus, which is also a good route. Do Not Direct (E1 5b) on White Gill was my first Lakes E1 and has 2 quality pitches, with P1 being the crux.
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In reply to DannyC:
Aardvark is good but hardly fitting for this thread! Even if you could get the gear in and avoid the fall on the safe bit I reckon you want to be pretty solid on E1 for the upper arete. In fact most E1s on Pavey / in the Lakes would be better recommendations than this one.
Aardvark is good but hardly fitting for this thread! Even if you could get the gear in and avoid the fall on the safe bit I reckon you want to be pretty solid on E1 for the upper arete. In fact most E1s on Pavey / in the Lakes would be better recommendations than this one.
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In reply to Davidwi:
Whit's end direct recommended, steady series of tricksome moves but with good gear and rests in between. Never hard, friendly crag.
Whit's end direct recommended, steady series of tricksome moves but with good gear and rests in between. Never hard, friendly crag.
In reply to Lenin:
Fair comment, it was a while ago and my main memory was PM felt safe / well protected.
LC may be soft, but the OP seems not to have ticked any HVS yet, so maybe not such an issue.
Anyhow I defer to the locals. I only responded because during my one week I happened to be operating at a max of E1!
> The crux ofPraying Mantis I recall as rather polished and in my opinion not one to build confidence on. Lakeland Cragsman could be considered rather easy for HVS and not really a good preperation for E1.
Fair comment, it was a while ago and my main memory was PM felt safe / well protected.
LC may be soft, but the OP seems not to have ticked any HVS yet, so maybe not such an issue.
Anyhow I defer to the locals. I only responded because during my one week I happened to be operating at a max of E1!
In reply to Andy Hardy:
I thought Bludgeon was hard for E1 (and I don't think it's because I'm weak, I can boulder a bit harder than 5b - it's just plain hard). The other E1s at Shepherd's seemed OK (but not memorable routes for me).
My favourite Lakes E1 is Whit's End Direct (E1 5b) - but it's not low in the grade. Loads of brilliant easier stuff on Gimmer, a fantastic crag and often in condition.
For a really nice safe, firmly E1 but not hard outcrop style route, I rate The First Touch (E1 5b). Wonderful Pavey style black bubbly rock, cracking little route. The Pavey routes suggested are low in the grade, but Aardvark is proper 'Aard (E2 basically).
White Ghyll is good for E1s. I found Man of Straw (E1 5b) quite tricky, but a nice route. Can't remember which one's which, but at least one of the classics is quite easy. Try'em and find out!
Harlot Face (E1 5b) is a quality route, nice style of climbing on that crag with big incut flake holds (some of which wobble a bit admittedly).
For multipitch routes, obviously Central Buttress is the classic and it's a fantastic adventure, but with just one E1 pitch on crag that's always soaked it's hardly the place to start. Dow has great E1s but they're hard. I struggled on Catacomb (E1 5b) after doing the E2s without much bother.
There are so many great routes all around the Lakes, just go to classic crag and climb a classic route. If you do Whit's End Direct as your first you'll remember it forever, it's one of the best routes I've ever done, but if it was me I'd start out on something a bit less in-your-face on a smaller crag.
> If you're strong, The Bludgeon on Shepherd's is straightforward. E is for effort in this case.
I thought Bludgeon was hard for E1 (and I don't think it's because I'm weak, I can boulder a bit harder than 5b - it's just plain hard). The other E1s at Shepherd's seemed OK (but not memorable routes for me).
My favourite Lakes E1 is Whit's End Direct (E1 5b) - but it's not low in the grade. Loads of brilliant easier stuff on Gimmer, a fantastic crag and often in condition.
For a really nice safe, firmly E1 but not hard outcrop style route, I rate The First Touch (E1 5b). Wonderful Pavey style black bubbly rock, cracking little route. The Pavey routes suggested are low in the grade, but Aardvark is proper 'Aard (E2 basically).
White Ghyll is good for E1s. I found Man of Straw (E1 5b) quite tricky, but a nice route. Can't remember which one's which, but at least one of the classics is quite easy. Try'em and find out!
Harlot Face (E1 5b) is a quality route, nice style of climbing on that crag with big incut flake holds (some of which wobble a bit admittedly).
For multipitch routes, obviously Central Buttress is the classic and it's a fantastic adventure, but with just one E1 pitch on crag that's always soaked it's hardly the place to start. Dow has great E1s but they're hard. I struggled on Catacomb (E1 5b) after doing the E2s without much bother.
There are so many great routes all around the Lakes, just go to classic crag and climb a classic route. If you do Whit's End Direct as your first you'll remember it forever, it's one of the best routes I've ever done, but if it was me I'd start out on something a bit less in-your-face on a smaller crag.
In reply to Davidwi:
Failed romantic at castle rock (of Triermain) is v good. Slightly bold but no deck out potential.
I'd agree with Raindrop.
I also found Black Icicle at Shepherds fine.
Sergeants Slab a good call. Go for Aphasia (E2) if feeling confident,
Failed romantic at castle rock (of Triermain) is v good. Slightly bold but no deck out potential.
I'd agree with Raindrop.
I also found Black Icicle at Shepherds fine.
Sergeants Slab a good call. Go for Aphasia (E2) if feeling confident,
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In reply to Jon Stewart:
Bouldering doesn't really help with stamina though... Maybe "fit" would have been a better choice of word. It's definitely honest toil (but you can get a sit down "rest" on top of the flake).
> I thought Bludgeon was hard for E1 (and I don't think it's because I'm weak, I can boulder a bit harder than 5b - it's just plain hard). [...]
Bouldering doesn't really help with stamina though... Maybe "fit" would have been a better choice of word. It's definitely honest toil (but you can get a sit down "rest" on top of the flake).
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Agreed! (Hence "If you're flying and find them too easy".) Great route whatever - possibly even three stars in my book, given the quality of the rock and that memorable, powerful move on P1.
Cheers,
D.
Agreed! (Hence "If you're flying and find them too easy".) Great route whatever - possibly even three stars in my book, given the quality of the rock and that memorable, powerful move on P1.
Cheers,
D.
In reply to Siderunner:
True I haven't but I intend to before jumping on an E1, I'm more looking for a target to aim for and work toward this summer.
I just don't want to pick a route from my guide book and get psyched to do my first E1, and it be a total waste of effort. I want my first E grade to be that not a E1 that everyone says is more HVS or try an E1 that's really high in the grade and feel daft.
> ...but the OP seems not to have ticked any HVS yet, so maybe not such an issue.
True I haven't but I intend to before jumping on an E1, I'm more looking for a target to aim for and work toward this summer.
I just don't want to pick a route from my guide book and get psyched to do my first E1, and it be a total waste of effort. I want my first E grade to be that not a E1 that everyone says is more HVS or try an E1 that's really high in the grade and feel daft.
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In reply to DannyC:
I think 3 stars too (Aardvark). Do many folk split the main pitch? Surely you'd be risking a fall onto the belay?
I think 3 stars too (Aardvark). Do many folk split the main pitch? Surely you'd be risking a fall onto the belay?
In reply to Davidwi:
Anybody mentioned Raindrop on Black Crag in Borrowdale? Superb route and one well worth getting on!
Anybody mentioned Raindrop on Black Crag in Borrowdale? Superb route and one well worth getting on!
In reply to Davidwi:
I don't think anyone has mentioned Columbus at Stone star in Duddon Valley as a really amenable and very pleasant little E1.
I don't think anyone has mentioned Columbus at Stone star in Duddon Valley as a really amenable and very pleasant little E1.
In reply to Davidwi:
The problem is that if you work through the grades you'll almost certainly climb something that is borderline. By definition an E1 that is definitely E1 and not a hard HVS is going to be somewhere in the middle of the grade range. Such is the paradox of grade chasing.
> I want my first E grade to be that not a E1 that everyone says is more HVS or try an E1 that's really high in the grade and feel daft.
The problem is that if you work through the grades you'll almost certainly climb something that is borderline. By definition an E1 that is definitely E1 and not a hard HVS is going to be somewhere in the middle of the grade range. Such is the paradox of grade chasing.
In reply to mountain.martin:
I'll second that. Lovely rock, interesting, technical, thoughtful moves between good gear. Excellent introduction to E1.
Andy F
> Also on Shepard's, Aros is a lovely long pitch that certainly isn't hard for the grade. Seem to remember that the crucial gear to protect the lower crux took a bit of working out, so if you're gear placements are not your strong point, it might not be such a good idea.
I'll second that. Lovely rock, interesting, technical, thoughtful moves between good gear. Excellent introduction to E1.
Andy F
In reply to andy farnell:
I loved Aros, especially up to the break, but you do have to be pretty blinkered to do the technical crux above the break. I suspect many people count the break as pretty much the top and shuffle off leftwards.
> I'll second that. Lovely rock, interesting, technical, thoughtful moves between good gear. Excellent introduction to E1.Andy F
I loved Aros, especially up to the break, but you do have to be pretty blinkered to do the technical crux above the break. I suspect many people count the break as pretty much the top and shuffle off leftwards.
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In reply to Davidwi:
A day or 2 on High Crag Culminating in Philistine. Do girdle with pitch across Samson onto arete lakes at its best. Samson direct start not in log book big roof good gear and holds a "Lambo HVS" E1/2 5b.
A day or 2 on High Crag Culminating in Philistine. Do girdle with pitch across Samson onto arete lakes at its best. Samson direct start not in log book big roof good gear and holds a "Lambo HVS" E1/2 5b.
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In reply to rka:
Philistine would certainly be one to aspire to. Superb route and a great tick at the grade.
Philistine would certainly be one to aspire to. Superb route and a great tick at the grade.
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