/ Recommended climbs HVS-E2 in Meirionnydd

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mike lawrence? 29 Jun 2011
If i had one or possibly 2 dry days what routes in Meirionnydd would people recommend? I've just got the guidebook and have no idea of any of the places there.

thanks

mike
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates:

Some good stuff at Carreg Alltrem though mostly VS-E1.

Varying stuff in the Moelwyn all of easy access.

Not done much further south but Craig y Merched in the southern Rhinog is very nice and has some good routes in the range you are looking at.

Can't remember route names, sorry.

ALC
Mark Davies PK 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates:

If it were me I'd head straight for Darker Angel on the basis of the cover photo in the last guide.

You get people slagging it on the basis the bottom pitches are chossy and the top pitches green, but I suspect they're just peasants who've never climbed on mountain crags before. I could be wrong, of course., not having done it.

Failing that the traditional recommendation would be Gwydrin as above, though that crag with Sloose on always looks nice.

jcm
JMarkW 29 Jun 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Gist Ddu above Bala - sloose and the e1 to the right are very good. might need longer than 2 dry days though. Shorter approach staright up from the road now since the CROW act.

cheers
mark
GrahamD 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates:

I don't know about reccomend as I haven't tried climbing there yet, but I am seriously tempted by the look of the stuff on Arenig Fawr
Fiend 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates:

At those grades, one day at Arrenig Fawr and one day in the Rhinnogs. Craig Y Merched is the Burbage Popular end of the Rhinnogs and thus the obvious choice, but have a look around for a more authentic experience.
Rob Davies 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates: I'd agree with the recommendation for Gwydrin (HVS) on Cyfrwy, a great slab pitch. Gyllion (HVS) on Arening Fawr is OK but over-rated in the guide. There are some good lines on Gist Ddu like Aardvark (HVS) and Voie Suisse (E1), plus lots at Craig Cowarch. All these cliffs need a good spell of dry weather.
SGD 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates: Moelwyns......

Flake wall HVS
Acoustic flake E2
Condor E1
Great Feet/Mean Feet combo E1

to name a few really good routes
Mark Davies PK 29 Jun 2011
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates)
>
> but have a look around for a more authentic experience.

and what may that be oh mid wales guru?

lmarenzi 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates:

just for the record I would like to stand up and be counted as a mate of mikelawrence even if he chooses to climb, err, HVS in, erm, Meirionnydd.
bill briggs1 29 Jun 2011
In reply to SGD:

Cleaned heather out of the groove on Flake Wall today , now clean.

Also did Acoustic Flake , bottom wall is quite dirty.

Both routes are well worth doing
Bulls Crack 29 Jun 2011
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates:

Did some cracking E2 i think on Craig Cywarch might have been Keelhaul - steep good holds?
In reply to mikelawrence aka jonnienomates: I've always been attracted by The Haw Lantern at Craig y Merched http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36753

It just looks like one of those routes that's going to be awesome.
Goggie 29 Jun 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I went to Darker Anger in 1995 and couldn't find the start. We had half a dozen attempts following various features that fitted the guidebook description and got nowhere. I was pretty steady on mountain E4's at the time but couldn't find a way onto the main pitches.

I've heard the best approach is to abb in from the top, but that seemed like a bit of a waste of time.

Has anyone found the start?
Fiend 29 Jun 2011
In reply to Pylon King:

One of those bollox places you've been to you cantakerous choad.
mike lawrence? 29 Jun 2011
In reply to lmarenzi: Which is just as well as you are driving us up there!
mike lawrence? 29 Jun 2011
In reply to Dave Williams: Wow! you know your Meirionnydd! Assuming a couple of dry weeks and you could only pick one place which would it be? I'd probably most tempted by Gist Ddu followed by Cadair Idris as partic like multipitch but where would you recommend? So many places so little time!

mike
Dave Williams 29 Jun 2011
n reply to Goggie:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> I went to Darker Anger in 1995 and couldn't find the start. We had half a dozen attempts following various features that fitted the guidebook description and got nowhere. I was pretty steady on mountain E4's at the time but couldn't find a way onto the main pitches.
>
> I've heard the best approach is to abb in from the top, but that seemed like a bit of a waste of time.
>
> Has anyone found the start?

Yes. We found the start virtually straight away. The lower pitches aren't particularly hard but are well worth doing IMO. Abseiling in and just doing the top pitches is definitely a cop out. Unfortunately, Darker Angel would be wet at the moment, as would most of the mountain routes in Meirionnydd. :¬(

However, if we ever get any real dry weather again this year, here's a personal Meirionnydd HVS-E2 hit list (personal as in I've done them!) Apologies for repeating some of the good recommendations already made, but I reckon there's a fair few weekends' worth of adventures to be had here. (BTW, all are starred routes; esoteric little gems not included):

CWM CYWARCH
Beggars Banquet HVS
Dream Racer E2
The Overlap E2
Sweet Baby James HVS
Shade of Pale E1
Acheron HVS
Plankwalk HVS
Keelhaul E1

GIST DDU
The Scarecrow E1
Moai Man E1
Scimitar HVS
Deadline E1
Sloose HVS
Aardvark HVS
Voie Suisse E1

CADAIR IDRIS
Then There Were Five E2
Gwydrin E1
Pusher Man Variation HVS
Darker Angel E2
Ice Man HVS
Girdle Traverse of Craig Cwm Rhwyddfor E1

CRAIG YR ADERYN
Daisy Belle E1
The Bolero HVS

CRAIG Y MERCHED
Magic Mushroom E1
The Haw Lantern E2
Vermillion Wash E1

ARENNIG FAWR
Gyllion HVS
Madryn E1
Emperor's New Toes HVS (The route on the guide's front cover - definitely a real 'sandbag' at VS!)

CRAIG RHIWARTH
Wingeing Pom E1
Rose Corner HVS
Cheshire Cat E2
Tanat HVS
The Hud E1

MOELWYNION
Igam Ogam E1
Mean Feat HVS
Vestix HVS
Space Below My Feet HVS
Condor E1
Flake Wall HVS

CARREG ALLTREM
Fratricide Wall HVS


Enjoy ... and don't forget to pack the towel - and trowel!! ;¬)

Dave
Tim Sparrow 29 Jun 2011
In reply to airbournegrapefruit: It is indeed - stuff a good cam in at crux and keep going! A bit bold going up the wall below as you could easily hit the ledge despite the gear.
Tim Sparrow 29 Jun 2011
In reply to Dave Williams: I can vouch for at least 10 of these ... having been tied to Dave at the time! Trowel not always needed. Midge repellent is. Depends what he ate the night before.
Ropeboy 14 Jul 2011
In reply to Dave Williams:

What a great tick list! I've wanted to do some routes in that area and you've provided me with a great starter.

Thanks,

John
sgl0jd 15 Jul 2011
In reply to Dave Williams:

That's a great comprehensive list. I've climbed a lot of it and those i have are all definitely worth doing.

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