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Update on my BMC ready Ready to Rock course.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

Hi.

On Saturday I attended a BMC Ready to Rock course with Adventure Expertise. I had an amazing time and learnt a lot. The crag we went to was  Stanage North - The High Neb area. We did some toproping after learning how to build and assess natural rock anchors and learning how to use a guide book. After toproping we were taught all about trad gear and placing trad gear and even got to do our own placements then remove it with a nut key if the placement was done too enthusiastically - I was good at placing gear. 

I knew a lot of stuff already and the instructor was impressed with my knowledge.

Sav

Post edited at 19:42
 marsbar 09 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sounds like you had a great weekend  

In reply to marsbar:

Yep I sure did. 

I did some walking the previous day to!

 JLS 09 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good stuff.

Hope you are psyched form more.  

In reply to JLS:

Thanks... 

Yes I am!

Post edited at 23:04
 MischaHY 11 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

F*ck yes Sav. Mega psyched that you finally get to get your hands on those crags you've been dreaming about for so long! 

Must have been a big moment for you stepping off that train? 

Good lad. 

In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks.... 

I did the journey to Sheffield before and from Sheffield to Hathersage also.... 

It was a big moment getting my hands on the grit and placing gear!

Sav 

 derryclimbs 11 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Savage!

 Offwidth 12 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Great news Sav...  are you sponsored by Outside now? ;-)

 Rich D 12 Apr 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

That's an idea I could be sponsored to drink pints of coffee and eat chip butties. 

In reply to Offwidth:

No, I'm not unfortunately....

I wish!

I did have lovely lunch there though....

Homemade chicken, leak and mushroom pie with all the timings.

Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Great to hear you finally made it Sav! 

Onwards and upwards  

In reply to Justsomeclimber:

I am hooked on Hathersage. I love g g e cuteness and compactness of the place....

Defo coming back for more grit action.  

Post edited at 11:41
In reply to Justsomeclimber:

Love the cuteness and compactness of the place. 

 Offwidth 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Let us know when...more of your fan club can turn up and meet you.

2
In reply to Offwidth:

 Defo. Will do.  

Post edited at 22:38
 The Ivanator 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Awesome news, now start the addictive habit of logging your climbs!

In reply to The Ivanator:

There will be a trip report soon.  

3
 hang_about 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Cool as beanz! 

In reply to hang_about:

Super cool as baenz! G-R-I-T!  

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

How do I write a trip report? 

 McHeath 23 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You could write it in your blog and post the link here. Or, if you would like it to be published as an article on UKC, you could mail Natalie Berry through her profile (click on "email user") and ask about the possibility.

In reply to McHeath:

Thanks dude. 

You are a great help.  

 McHeath 23 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You're welcome! 

 derryclimbs 24 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I would absolutely love to read 'Mountain Spirit's Peak Adventures'. It's been a long time coming!!!

In reply to derryclimbs:

Plenty to come and a day at Malham Cove with a coach.  

 MGRT 24 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> and a day at Malham Cove with a coach.  

Nice one!

Trad or sport?

Post edited at 11:26
 derryclimbs 24 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Plenty to come and a day at Malham Cove with a coach.  

you mean there's a sequel already?

 d_b 24 Apr 2019
In reply to derryclimbs:

It's Summer and Mountain Spirit has finally been out climbing.  With a bit of luck the sequels will be coming thick and fast.

It's good to see a positive thread for once.

In reply to MGRT:

Sport

In reply to derryclimbs:

Mid May 

 MGRT 24 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Sport

The grades are  pretty stiff at Malham. There is very little below 7a and what there is probably harder than the given grade. 

The are a few easier trad climbs up on the wings, which might be worth considering as a back-up. 

 DerwentDiluted 24 Apr 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Plenty to come and a day at Malham Cove with a coach.  

Where you gonna park it?

;0)

In reply to MGRT:

Good idea. 

He has got me doing Feet on Campus Boarding. 

100 reps and 10 sets. I've beaten that 100 reps 15 sets. 

Post edited at 13:39
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Lmho. 

I'll park outside Beck Hall. Lol. 

 

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Booked for the 17th with Coaches Climbing. 

In reply to Offwidth:

I think I am sponsored by Outside now...

I'll phone them tomorrow and ask them.

Post edited at 19:59
5
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I have spoken to the people at Outside and head office will get back to me with more questions.

Sav

Post edited at 15:07
2
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Two pieces of news:

1. Outside are not looking to sponsor anyone at present but when they do they'll have me in mind.

2. I might be heading to The Peak to meet some friends for climbing next week. 

Sav

Post edited at 19:15
2
 Offwidth 04 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Where and when?

In reply to Offwidth:

He wants to do something at Curbar and I want to practice placing gear at ground level. Hopefully to leave on Thursday and climb on Friday. 

Sav

 Offwidth 04 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Best of luck. On Sav vs Curbar ... ground level placements might be sensible for now but keep learning and stay keen.  I d love to see you lead The Peapod one day... it would be the perfect response to all the flack you got here over recent years  ;-)

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Blimey..Malham!   So what's it to be? Rainshadow? ;-) 

Post edited at 13:08
In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks...

I have Peapod and Sorrells Sorrow in mind for seconding as part of a CAC chellenge.

 Oceanrower 04 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Yes, cos an HVS 5b is great when you first start. 

I'll give the Bradford Potholing Club a ring for you. See if the winch they use for Gaping Gill is free that weekend...

However, to show I do gave a soft side, there's a hundred quid to CAC when you post a video of you completing either of them. Two hundred for the pair.

Post edited at 13:39
17
 Offwidth 04 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I'd leave them a bit until you know your skill set is OK for them. Charity is no excuse for encouraging bad form on 3 star classics. I'd put it in the same category as the sad reality oo the 3 Peaks challenge... raising money doesn't excuse environmental damaging practice.

Post edited at 14:00
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Im not sure if it is going ahead....

I wish - there is more chance of a Brexit by Halloween than me getting up that. 

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hey Sav, give me a shout when you're here. I'm getting you up the Peapod, and CAC are gonna get £100 of Oceanrowers money. 

In reply to Offwidth:

I'm also doing Snowdon with Deacon but not sure whether to do a Hills Skills course beforehand. 

Post edited at 14:43
In reply to Oceanrower:

I didn't say I was going to do them that day. 

 Oceanrower 04 May 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

I'll be delighted to pay out.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Will do mate. 

Ocean challenged to me climb Right Wall (E5 6a) at  Dinas Cromlech

If I did he would pay for my CWI

Post edited at 19:16
2
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Yep. You've got no chance mate. But you've got a chance of getting The Peapod  

1
In reply to deacondeacon:

Not really interested in the Cromlech at the mo anyway but grit defo.

Back and leg work according to UKC and Rock Fax. The Peapod (HVS 5b)

Is it done facing left or right?

Post edited at 21:46
1
 Oceanrower 05 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Get it right, Sav. I didn't challenge you to climb Right Wall. That thought would not have crossed my mind and would have been foolish and irresponsible.

You insisted that you were going to climb it. I said that if you did etc., etc..

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Is it done facing left or right?

Who knows? ;) 

In reply to Oceanrower:

I must have got it wrong then....

I do remember a discussion on here about tactics for it - Hang dogging, toproping it then leading it. 

3
 Offwidth 05 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It can be climbed facing either way with fairly similar difficulty.  The pod bit is severe at the most. The crux is exiting the pod, for which you need to be proficient in jamming and making the best use of your feet on the closing pod and sensible enough not to block the jams with cams. Strong climbers can avoid the jams and struggle and swear it not HVS; some of those can have an interesting time on the sloping ledge, up and right, whilst those jamming might wonder what the fuss is all about once out of the pod.

A maxim that will hold well in your climbing is to try to never dog (in the clueless flailing technical sense). You will develop skills by focussing on good technique and build 'engrams' (movement memory) that will really help future progress. Flailing about will act like graffiti on carefully crafted engrams. If you can only flail try something easier in the same style.

Post edited at 12:00
In reply to Offwidth:

Hi. 

Thanks for this. What kind of crack is the exiting crack?

Are you talking about cams as in active protection for example DMM Dragon Cams?...

If so I'm seconding the route so I won't need to worry about placing cams in the wrong place.

What is the approach to Curbar Eliminates area like? 

Sav

Post edited at 14:01
1
 Offwidth 05 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Its a hand crack.

As for the approach you might need porters and several days supply of cake....

.....if thats typical for you for about a 5 minute walk ;-)

Albino Arete, D, is a nice friendly  climb in the arera that few people do and is good to experience the local rock.

In reply to Offwidth:

Lovely walk-in and great start to arete climbing.

I love the ideas of Albino Arete. 

Albino Arete is the baby brother of:.... 

The End of the Affair (E8 6c)

Sav

Post edited at 17:05
2
 d_b 06 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

There may be one or two intermediate aretes worth climbing.

In reply to d_b:

I agree... 

I think there are... 

Right Triplet Gully (VD)

The above could be preparation for The Peapod.  

Post edited at 21:31
In reply to Offwidth:

I think Albino Arête (D) is a solo and I can't find it in Eastern Grit or Rockfax. 

Post edited at 14:03
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It's not in the Rockfax, not sure if its in the BMC guide either - I did it last week, it's more a highball than a route, but its no pushover. I thought the Diff grade is more to do with being low than being technically easy. I don't know what grade it should be really, V0- or something maybe, but Diff felt wrong.

 McHeath 07 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It's in the logbooks here; Curbar, Toy area:

Albino Arête (D)

Doesn't sound like a well-protected lead to me.

 Offwidth 07 May 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Its in the BMC  guide. I should have been clear I was suggesting he second or TR it, not lead it.

In reply to TobyA:

Yep it's on here  ur doesn't give any symbols on what kind of climbing is involved.....

There are some easy problems on the crag abmnd then there is this lol.... Sean's Arête (f7B)

Sav

In reply to McHeath:

I have found it on here.  

In reply to Offwidth:

Either way is good for me.... 

Even TR it then put some matts below it to do it as boulder problem. 

1
 Offwidth 07 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

8m is not a boulder problem for most lower grade climbers. 

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Yep it's on here  ur doesn't give any symbols on what kind of climbing is involved.....

> There are some easy problems on the crag abmnd then there is this lol.... Sean's Arête (f7B)

> Sav

Sav

if you manage to send Sean’s Arête, maybe you can give me the beta, because I keep falling off it. Actually, I could do with a hand on Westside Story too... ;-)

In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

I discovered the problem by accident when I was looking for aretes to climb in Curbar.  

In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Are you joking? .... 

Seen a YouTube vid of it.  

S

Post edited at 20:57
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Are you joking? .... 

> Seen a YouTube vid of it.  

> S

Yes, I put a smiley face in the post....

 slab_happy 08 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Yeah, it's not in Eastern Grit at all, and it's tucked away as a text mention in the BMC guide.  I remember thinking it was worth a star and being surprised it didn't get more love in the guidebooks!

It's a miniature adventure, with a lot going on for the grade, and I think a good suggestion from Offwidth as something you could try top-roping or seconding.

If it's dry, Calver Chimney (D) also turns out to be lovely; nothing harder than it should be but you have to think, interesting and 3-D and funky.

I'm developing more and more appreciation for quality Diffs and VDiffs; some of them are delightful and shouldn't be overlooked by anyone, no matter what grade you climb.

In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

I saw that. 

In reply to slab_happy:

Looks fun.  

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It will be raining in Hathersage on Friday but I don't know the weather for Calver where Curbar is. 

 Offwidth 08 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Showers on and off from lunch... it dries fast and won't get too wet anyhow in a predicted easterly. If it's bad have a go at some of the BMC Troglodytes tour at Stanage or Burbage. There are quite a few cave and chimney routes that stay pretty dry even in worse than such predicted conditions

In reply to Offwidth:

Peapod looks technical in the pod - a very interesting climb. 

In reply to Offwidth:

How far is Curbar from Hathersage? 

 Offwidth 08 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It can be done in several days ambling walk with porters....

... or a couple of hours stiff walk, or about 7 miles to the parking by car ;-)

In reply to Offwidth:

I don't drive.

Post edited at 20:27
 McHeath 08 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Your best bet is one of the regular buses to Calver; 20-30 min of pleasant scenic walking should then see you under the Eliminates wall on Curbar.

In reply to McHeath:

Thanks. I like the buses in the East Midlands - the single decker come with free WiFi. 

 slab_happy 09 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I don't drive.

Me neither. But very probably whoever you're climbing with will, so you can get a lift with them!

If not, you can both go on the bus to Calver then walk from there.

In reply to slab_happy:

I've asked a friend who'll be climbing with  if he can pick me up from Outside or my accommodation....  

I do love the buses though.  

In reply to slab_happy:

Can the approach be done in normal shoes as I have forgotten my walking boots? 

Post edited at 11:12
 tehmarks 09 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Yes.

In reply to tehmarks:

Thanks m8

Good to hear. 

Post edited at 11:31
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I'm at Hathersage if anyone wants to meet up. 

 Offwidth 09 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Post up where you go. If I finish my marking early I might see if I can find you mid afternoon. 

In reply to Offwidth:

Is that on Facebook or here? 

Post edited at 19:42
In reply to Offwidth:

One of the people I was going with said the weather is no good for grit tomorrow so he will probably head to Raven Tor.

Not sure if Deacon is up for Peapod tomorrow. 

I could head to a wall in the morning then you could meet me mid afternooon. 

 Offwidth 10 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit

Email me through here and I'll contact you and talk.

In reply to Offwidth:

Cool as baenz.

I will do.  

Post edited at 00:39
 Offwidth 10 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

.... and indeed you did. So much for your reputation of being crag shy.... a lunchtime training session in The Depot, then a walk at Curbar and then with Buxtoncoffeelover you and I seemed to be the only people out on the crags. Great to meet you and hope you enjoyed yourself.

In reply to Offwidth:

I had a great day!...  

It was great to meet you to....

Curbar Edge

Burbage North

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It was good to meet you today Savvas, & help you get out on the grit. It was lovely that the sun came out, & I'm glad you had a great day. Come back again. Nik

In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

It was great to meet you to Nik.

I will do defo.

Thanks for a great afternoon.  

Post edited at 23:59
 Will Hunt 11 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Did you get to do any climbing, Savvas? How was it?

In reply to Will Hunt:

Hi Will. 

 Yes I did a groove route and some problems here. It was awesome. I love grit...  

Burbage North

Post edited at 00:36
 Offwidth 11 May 2019
In reply to Will Hunt:

Surprisingly OK conditions at Burbage after a deluge... I guess cooled rock after the rain. No-one else about at all. We were playing around from about 4 until 7.

Sav is a genuine lovely guy... enthusiastically pumped up on who's who in climbing. 

 McHeath 11 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sav, so glad you had a good time! And thanks to Offwidth and Nik for having given you what must have been a memorable day. I'd have loved to have been able to be there myself; maybe sometime in the future, I'll be back in the Peak for a couple of weeks in the Autumn. All the best!

 Will Hunt 11 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good work, the three of you. Sounds like a nice session.

In reply to Offwidth:

Sounds like you got lucky with the weather! I left work around 1530 having texted a mate to go climbing, but then in rained hard all the drive home and looking up the hill towards Curbar/Baslow and that area it looked really dark! Glad to hear just over the hill you guys missed the rain.

In reply to Will Hunt:

It was so much fun.  

 Offwidth 11 May 2019
In reply to TobyA:

We got hit alright... quite soaked walking at Curbar but thought we might (hence the walk) as we knew it was coming from the rainfall radar and the views of sheet rain to the west were amazing. We also knew from the radar there was a big dry gap afterwards so we just sat the worst out in Calver cafe. Grit dries fast in May and friction improves from evaporation cooling.

1
 tehmarks 11 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

This is genuinely the very best of UKC.

In reply to tehmarks:

Thanks so much  

We walked above Deacon's challenge. The Peapod (HVS 5b) and saw the huge prow of Dunne's

Parthian Shot (E10 6c)

 profitofdoom 11 May 2019
In reply to tehmarks:

> This is genuinely the very best of UKC.

That's a really nice post

 derryclimbs 11 May 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

> .... and indeed you did. So much for your reputation of being crag shy.... 

He's real? ...someone owes me a pint! Well done Offwidth!

In reply to derryclimbs:

I may head back next week 

 derryclimbs 13 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

where to this time? Can the grit handle three Mountain Spirits in a row?

In reply to derryclimbs:

Hopefully Peapod with Deacon or one of the gentlemen I was with last week.

I know Jim Pope is eager to climb with me.

I think the grit can. 

Sav

 Offwidth 13 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Just to be clear I won't be taking you on the Peapod unless you can cope with a few VS jamming cracks. You are some way off that standard at present. One of the reasons I led that awkward lower grade crack for you was to show the gulf in ability for climbers only used to indoor problems.

In reply to Offwidth:

Any advice on getting to that standard will be very helpful. 

Thanks for a wonderful day, I hope we can meet up again soon.  

 MischaHY 13 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sounds like you've found some great mentors Sav. Offwidth is hugely knowledgeable so you're in good hands. Trust in his judgement and be reasonable with your expectations of yourself - most important, remember it's good to find something hard, but it's also great to find something easy! Time on steady routes will build your confidence and give you a good basis of experience for when things get trickier. 

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Learn jamming! Personally I'd recommend jamming gloves if you've not already got them. Eg http://www.ocun.com/en/products/accessories/crack-gloves.html but don't buy on line - you need to try them on to get the right size.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Funny thing. I learnt to crack climb/jam with the Wideboyz masterclass twice but never put in into action much. 

1
In reply to MischaHY:

I think I have found some mentors.

Ian Dunn and Jim Pope are my mentors for sport and Offwidth and Deacon for trad.

One word.... 

SHARK!!!!

Sav

Post edited at 15:21
3
 slab_happy 13 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Funny thing. I learnt to crack climb/jam with the Wideboyz masterclass twice but never put in into action much. 

Well, that's the thing. Going to a class will give you the basic theory and a little bit of practice, but it takes a lot more practice (which in this case you can only really get outdoors, as there are very few walls that have cracks) to get any good at it.

This is true of a lot of things, not just jamming!

So I wouldn't say you "learnt to crack climb/jam" from a couple of classes, because that makes it sound as if you think you've learned everything about jamming and don't have any more learning to do.

I've been on the masterclass too (it's great), and I'm definitely still learning new things about how to jam years later ...

Now you're getting outside more, you can start trying out the things you learned in the masterclass and getting a grip on how they work in practice. Getting in lots and lots of mileage is essential to master techniques like jamming.

In reply to slab_happy:

I agree.

Offwidth gave me an evaluation of my gear placements. 

 Offwidth 15 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Those one to ten scorecards take up way too much room in my rucksack ;-)

 hang_about 15 May 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

They go all the way up to 11

In reply to Offwidth:

LOL

I am up for more.  

Post edited at 21:36
In reply to hang_about:

The instructor on The Ready to Rock course says 10 gives to many options so he justs rates them out of four.

Post edited at 21:41
In reply to slab_happy:

Can mantelling be trained and perfected i doors as many walls nowadays have to pout boulders? 

 d_b 16 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

A good start would be to strengthen up your arms with pushups and dips.

Post edited at 12:54
In reply to d_b:

I do chataranga dandasana (slow push up) as part of a yoga sequence.

https://www.yogajournal.com/poses/four-limbed-staff-pose

Thanks for the tip. 

 

Post edited at 18:01
 slab_happy 16 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

If you've got access to a wall with topout boulders, you can definitely work on practicing your mantelling indoors.

d_b's right about push-ups and dips being useful for building strength, and chaturanga dandasana's going to be brilliant for it.

But outdoors is always going to be somewhat different. Outdoor topouts are often slopey and rounded in a way I've never seen simulated indoors, and you may also have lots of subtle little footholds (much smaller than indoor footholds) that you can use to work your feet higher.

So there are going to be some things you can only learn through getting in lots and lots of mileage outdoors. You can practice some things indoors and it'll be useful, but you can't "perfect" your outdoor technique indoors!

In reply to slab_happy:

I agree....

I kniw about subtle little foot holds as I did some outdoor bouldering with topping out at  Burbage North and the route toproped was I exited by a topping out.  

 McHeath 16 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I use the work top in the kitchen for working on getting a foot high and next to my flat hands. You can also hold the position and pull the high foot or knee gently in with a hand to stretch the required muscles, but warm up first and don't force it! 

 slab_happy 16 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Exactly, so you'll have some idea of how different topping out can be outdoors!

It's definitely a good thing to work on. Lots of indoor boulderers never have to think about topouts at all until they go outdoors for the first time, and then it can be a nasty shock to find that it's not all over when you've got your hands on the top of the problem -- in fact, the real difficulty might begin there!

In reply to slab_happy:

Also, try not to climb onto blocks or pinnacles until you've worked out the best way down.

Oops!

 slab_happy 16 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

Ah yes, one of the first rules of outdoor bouldering on one's own, which I have learned the hard way ... numerous times, let's say.

In reply to slab_happy:

Only a few walls In London have topout problems.....

Most of the walls are climb down in a safe and controlled way. 

Sav

 McHeath 17 May 2019
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You can sometimes find high window sills on the outside of older stone clad buildings (churches for instance, but better not on Sunday mornings or during weddings or funerals )

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

What else can be practiced indoors? 

At present I am writing a trip report blog post for the BMC Ready to Rock course and I am wondering to put in it....

Any suggestions will be taken into consideration.

Sav

Post edited at 13:31
 profitofdoom 23 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

> Also, try not to climb onto blocks or pinnacles until you've worked out the best way down. > Oops!

I got stranded on top of Froggatt Pinnacle after soloing up and couldn't get down (lucky it wasn't the Old Man of Hoy). A friend had to chuck a rope up to me after many jokes/ warnings/ threats

In reply to profitofdoom:

Easiest way is to reverse part way down the VS 5a arete route (route one?) and then jump onto the flat rock below the VS 5b route on the short side.

I think you reverse the mantleshelf, not as bad as it sounds, and easier to understand if you've just climbed up that way. Long time since I've been up there and done that so memory of the details is a bit sparse.

Cook's leap. I'm sure it used to be "okay" many years ago when there was some kind of soil over there, but in modern times I wonder if it's been done without injury.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

If anyone is interested I have done a blog post about My BMC Ready to Rock Course. It is done with informative videos as I could not put photos from DropBox on the computer.

Bye

S

Post edited at 16:43

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