UKC

/ Best overhanging 7a (ish) in uk

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Imedio - on 08 Jun 2018

Hey everyone. I am looking For a climb or some climbs that are around 7a (6c-7b) and are overhanging. Ideally within the midlands, North Wales or the Peak District.

One I am looking at for anyone who is also instrested is a 7a called “rubicon” at “water cum jolly” (brilliant crag name). Here’s the link Rubicon (7a).

Kemics - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Raw Deal (7a)

It's in Cheddar so maybe stretching the definition of the midlands. But it's short, steep and has big moves on giant holds. 

Imedio - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Kemics:

Wow looks amazing! This was exactly what is was looking for. 

A friend of mine who has been climbing a lot longer than me wanted us to go to Chester in a couple of weeks so this is perfect. Thank you!

 

spidermonkey09 - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Rubicon is a dreadful route in my opinion. Worth a star at best.

Juggy overhanging routes are not really the calling card of peak limestone. However Brachiation Dance at Water Cum Jolly is probably 7b, not 7b+ and is as close as you will get I think.

Cheese Monkey - on 08 Jun 2018

Again nowhere near you but White Rhino Tea at Berry Head is fantastic

Wood for Trees on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to spidermonkey09:

7b? sandbagger 

RFWilkie - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Again not quite in the area you're specifying but steep juggy and 7a

Practically Everything (7a) or Cave and Crag (7a)

Imedio - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to spidermonkey09:

I have just read the reviews and it looks great. Mother one to. Add to the list.

great response from everyone  thanks

JLS on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Jim Grin and its neighbour Barguest might fit the bill if Yorkshire it's too far to travel.

The Jim Grin (7a)#photos

 

climber34neil - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Just to confuse you, I think Rubicon is a great routr and definitely worth doing, also santiano, rock umbrella at the nook in cheedale, just outside your suggested range but jug jockey may be worth a look, also pedal to the metal at turkey dip, and a few steep routes on Reynard's arch in dovedale. Plenty of steep routes on cheedale cornice as well eg that was the river

spidermonkey09 - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Wood for Trees:

Honestly! I thought it was pretty trivial bar the move at the top and I was nowhere near being a 7b+ leader at the time...not an intentional sandbag!

AlanLittle - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to spidermonkey09:

I'm fascinated by the downvotes you're getting. 

I wonder whether they're for sugggesting Rubicon isn't exactly a mega-classic, or that Brachiation Dance is good.

I haven't done either, but judging by standing underneath both of them looking up I'd say you seem to be right on both counts.

guy xavier percival - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove (7b)

 

This is one of the best in South Wales

Si dH - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

Brachiation Dance ia outstanding, much better than Rubicon.

I definitely think it's worth 7b+, but if you can climb 7b and like steep routes then why not?

SCC Changed - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

At 7a+ there aren't many better than Night Glue, LPT, in my opinion. Unlike most at that grade on the Orme, it overhangs too.

Paz - on 08 Jun 2018

Broaden your horizons OP:

down in Devon and Dorset, the water is warm.

I would strongly suggest making an exception to your requirement of overhanging for:  Rainbow Bridge at Berry Head, as it's one of the best routes in the country.  Maybe even the best.

Horny Little Devil at Lulworth is world class, and Riding to Babylon at Durdle Door is brilliant.

At Cheddar you really want to ignore all the really good soft touch 7as on the poxy single pitch crags and get on Sunset buttress before the end of June (or come back in September): the first pitch of Paradise Lost is brilliant, and Sunset Score and Sunsations are amazing.

Post edited at 18:54
paul__in_sheffield - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to climber34neil:

That route to the left of Santiano at The Nook is a hoot too....think it’s the same grade, steep juggy 7a+

luke glaister - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

The The Raven (7a+) in the Gower South Wales takes some beating. Stunning location.  Awesome line. Well worth a visit.  Fox hole up the track if u want Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove (7b)

climber34neil - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Kalymnos 8a

Paz - on 08 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

This place is never going to qualify for best in the UK like Malham or the DWS does, but quite often due to the westerlies, the weather is crap everywhere else in the north, and Filey Brigg on the east coast is -the- home of steep and juggy if it's in condition.  I'd say it's worth checking out if the weather does one on you.  Double check with someone who's actually been there first though.

Some other classics are:  The Vanishing at Connor.  Bit conditionsy but close to the sea and totally amazing.

Octopus Weed on Portland.  It's not all vertical on portland if you're happy getting wet and going at the right tide.

Arapiles, Oh Arapiles at Babbacombe.  Captain Caveman at Lysdstep.

If it's August, and you cruised White Rhino Tea, try Pink Roadster and Cod Timpani if you like roofs.

Post edited at 21:35
paul__in_sheffield - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to climber34neil:

Must be to the right then, it’s a link up from what I remember. I was sure it was around 7a. 

Bulls Crack - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

You need to get to Yorkshire!  Kilnsey, Malham, Trollers Gill....even Moughton Nab

The Grist - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Dreaming of Red Rocks (7a)

The only very steep 7a sport route I can think of that I have done in the uk. 

HakanT on 10 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Mexican Wave (7a+) and neighbours  on  Dancing Ledge. Definitely not midlands, but it's steep.

stp - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to spidermonkey09:

> Rubicon is a dreadful route in my opinion. Worth a star at best.

> Juggy overhanging routes are not really the calling card of peak limestone. However Brachiation Dance at Water Cum Jolly is probably 7b, not 7b+ and is as close as you will get I think.


Yeah totally agree. Rubicon is polished rubble.

Brachiation Dance used to be 7b so not sure why it was upgraded. Grade inflation perhaps?

zmv - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Imedio:

Once again, outside of the location range but Smooth Torquer 7a+ at Kilnsey is the steepest 7a+ with the biggest holds I've done! 

Hard for the grade though, tricky start with a few small holds leads to gigantic buckets on very steep ground. 


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