/ Best overhanging 7a (ish) in uk
Hey everyone. I am looking For a climb or some climbs that are around 7a (6c-7b) and are overhanging. Ideally within the midlands, North Wales or the Peak District.
One I am looking at for anyone who is also instrested is a 7a called “rubicon” at “water cum jolly” (brilliant crag name). Here’s the link Rubicon (7a).
Wow looks amazing! This was exactly what is was looking for.
A friend of mine who has been climbing a lot longer than me wanted us to go to Chester in a couple of weeks so this is perfect. Thank you!
Rubicon is a dreadful route in my opinion. Worth a star at best.
Juggy overhanging routes are not really the calling card of peak limestone. However Brachiation Dance at Water Cum Jolly is probably 7b, not 7b+ and is as close as you will get I think.
Again nowhere near you but White Rhino Tea at Berry Head is fantastic
I have just read the reviews and it looks great. Mother one to. Add to the list.
great response from everyone thanks
Just to confuse you, I think Rubicon is a great routr and definitely worth doing, also santiano, rock umbrella at the nook in cheedale, just outside your suggested range but jug jockey may be worth a look, also pedal to the metal at turkey dip, and a few steep routes on Reynard's arch in dovedale. Plenty of steep routes on cheedale cornice as well eg that was the river
Honestly! I thought it was pretty trivial bar the move at the top and I was nowhere near being a 7b+ leader at the time...not an intentional sandbag!
I'm fascinated by the downvotes you're getting.
I wonder whether they're for sugggesting Rubicon isn't exactly a mega-classic, or that Brachiation Dance is good.
I haven't done either, but judging by standing underneath both of them looking up I'd say you seem to be right on both counts.
Brachiation Dance ia outstanding, much better than Rubicon.
I definitely think it's worth 7b+, but if you can climb 7b and like steep routes then why not?
At 7a+ there aren't many better than Night Glue, LPT, in my opinion. Unlike most at that grade on the Orme, it overhangs too.
Broaden your horizons OP:
down in Devon and Dorset, the water is warm.
I would strongly suggest making an exception to your requirement of overhanging for: Rainbow Bridge at Berry Head, as it's one of the best routes in the country. Maybe even the best.
Horny Little Devil at Lulworth is world class, and Riding to Babylon at Durdle Door is brilliant.
At Cheddar you really want to ignore all the really good soft touch 7as on the poxy single pitch crags and get on Sunset buttress before the end of June (or come back in September): the first pitch of Paradise Lost is brilliant, and Sunset Score and Sunsations are amazing.
That route to the left of Santiano at The Nook is a hoot too....think it’s the same grade, steep juggy 7a+
This place is never going to qualify for best in the UK like Malham or the DWS does, but quite often due to the westerlies, the weather is crap everywhere else in the north, and Filey Brigg on the east coast is -the- home of steep and juggy if it's in condition. I'd say it's worth checking out if the weather does one on you. Double check with someone who's actually been there first though.
Some other classics are: The Vanishing at Connor. Bit conditionsy but close to the sea and totally amazing.
Octopus Weed on Portland. It's not all vertical on portland if you're happy getting wet and going at the right tide.
Arapiles, Oh Arapiles at Babbacombe. Captain Caveman at Lysdstep.
If it's August, and you cruised White Rhino Tea, try Pink Roadster and Cod Timpani if you like roofs.
Must be to the right then, it’s a link up from what I remember. I was sure it was around 7a.
You need to get to Yorkshire! Kilnsey, Malham, Trollers Gill....even Moughton Nab
> Rubicon is a dreadful route in my opinion. Worth a star at best.
> Juggy overhanging routes are not really the calling card of peak limestone. However Brachiation Dance at Water Cum Jolly is probably 7b, not 7b+ and is as close as you will get I think.
Yeah totally agree. Rubicon is polished rubble.
Brachiation Dance used to be 7b so not sure why it was upgraded. Grade inflation perhaps?
Once again, outside of the location range but Smooth Torquer 7a+ at Kilnsey is the steepest 7a+ with the biggest holds I've done!
Hard for the grade though, tricky start with a few small holds leads to gigantic buckets on very steep ground.
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