UKC

Hi All, 
A couple of friends have got heavily in to sport climbing recently and are wanting to learn multi-pitch.  They're capable, working up to F7a, and smart lads.

I'm more than comfortable teaching them, but having not climbed UK multi-pitch routes in over a decade, and with all my sport multi-pitch climbing (the majority of my outdoor climbing over the last 20 years) being abroad I'm at a loss as to an ideal location in the UK. 

Where would be the place to take them?  Ideally the route would have more than 2 pitches, a hanging belay or two, and European style anchors (or at least not anchoring to blocks or trees).  They're keen enough to be willing to drive a fair way, but as we're all based in Cambridge, North Wales or Scotland don't really feel feasible.  Portland/Swanage? Bristol? Peak District? 

There are very few "real" multi pitch sport routes in the UK if any. There's a few down Avon way I think -  mentioned in the new guidebook. In the Peak basically nothing beyond things like Neanderthal (5a) and the lines next to it as Horseshoe, that's only a real multi pitch if you don't have a 70 mtr rope. 

Wrong country really. Go on holiday or go trad climbing maybe your best options?

The UK isn’t ideal for it generally, with a few exceptions.

Theres a few very worthwhile routes on the slate though that are proper multi pitches. Twll Mawr has a few good ‘uns for example.

The only ones I can think of are in the Llanberis slate quarries. I've not done many of them but they can be quite "sporting" and seems hard for the grade if you aren't used to slate climbing 

Avon was my default assumption. Or perhaps lowering their ambitions to a 2-pitch route. I suspect as long as they can experience a hanging belay at the end of the first pitch and rigging an abseil at the top of the second, it might suffice.

Overseas is best. But I'm not likely to sync my leave with them.

Thanks for the suggestions.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/all_multi-pitch_sport_routes_e...

I'm often surprised by how people who sport climb to a decent standard (much harder than I manage) and who are really quite experienced, still see trad climbing as this really complicated and very different thing. I suspect loads of good sport climbers, particularly those who have done multipitch, could convert to doing trad routes really easily. Although if you're in Cambridge, you're not actually very close to much multipitch trad either! 🙂

I think often it's the desire or lack of rather than assuming it's "really complicated". There's plenty of people who don't want to faff around with a load of trad stuff

The ‘faff’ can be greatly exaggerated. For experienced climbers one of the many joys of trad climbing is the whole craft of getting on gear as slickly as possible. Followed by the sheer satisfaction of leaving the route ‘clean’, i.e with no gear left in (and no bolts, pegs, etc, nothing.)

My feeling is they aren't opposed to trad climbing per se, but instead have recently moved from bouldering to single pitch sport and with that having gone smoothly, multi-pitch is the thing they are really excited by now. I could feasibly teach them MP on a trad route, but do feel it may swamp their ambition with an aspect of the sport they are less enthused by. Ultimately, I think they value the accessable thrill factor (such as the hanging belays, freedom to fall, etc.) combined with simplicity and general safety.

Unfortunately Cambridge has one wall,which is aimed at children, and not much else. To say we aren't blessed with undulating terrain is an understatement.

Maybe. I enjoy being slick on trad, it's part of the pleasure for me. It's still faff though compared to sport and it depends what you want out of your climbing. I must admit leaving the route clean doesn't give me much if any satisfaction though.

Cheddar Gorge has some multipitch sport routes. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_south-240/

Be advised that there is Access restrictions for the South side of the Gorge, so you'll have to time your visit right. Bank and School Holidays are generally off limits. Read Access notes carefully and follow them closely, the Warden does check. Also one must carry proof of public liability insurance if I remember correctly. 

Cheddar was my first thought too, though it seems a blooming long way to drive from Cambridge. But then I guess most crags will be. 

If they can stretch a bit to 7b or so then sunset buttress would be good and (I think?) has hanging belays. Otherwise something like Goats R Us (6b+). 

As per previous poster, please check the access calendar & note the requirement for BMC membership on the south side (for third party insurance) if you plan to climb in cheddar. 

Worth noting, too, that probably the two most popular such routes - Stone Cold Fever (WW) (6b+) and Castles Made of Sand(WW) (6c) - are 'Winter Access Only' so now no longer available until October.

Eurostar to Paris, change for the TGV to Avignon or Marseilles, more multipitch sport routes than you can shake a stick at. Or go to Spain. 

Or just do some trad routes here, it’s just not that complicated. 

Wintour's Leap may work. They could practice by multipitching Still Nice and Still Sleazy (6a+) and have Heil Hitler (7a) as the big goal.

Well, there are two bouldering walls in Cambridge but point taken.  Its main benefit from a sport climbing perspective is that it's easy to get to Stansted. 

Unless the large belay tree really is a deal-breaker!

Cheddar noted by Subgenre seems an obvious choice. I think we (or more to the point, "they") are resigned to the drive and, given their enthusiasm, I suspect they are more than happy to.

Access restrictions noted. I've been checking the UKC crag map as best as I can, but hadn't considered that they might not have BMC membership - thanks for that.

Good suggestion. I vaguely remember climbing Heil Hitler years ago but think the 6a+ might be a fine choice - as much as the idea of them arriving at a stance fully pumped and frightened appeals, I'd prefer them fresh and receptive to instruction!