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How many quick draws for Swanage ?

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Hi there I’m new to leading so I am just wanting to see how many qucikdraws one would need for Swanage, Winspit?

 Lankyman 23 Aug 2024
In reply to solomonuptonjubber:

Your profile suggests you climbed at that exact location today (and registered today to ask how many 'qucikdraws' are needed). Hmmm .... ?

14
 FactorXXX 23 Aug 2024
In reply to Lankyman:

> Your profile suggests you climbed at that exact location today (and registered today to ask how many 'qucikdraws' are needed). Hmmm .... ?

Their profile has got a number of Winspit routes in their 'Climbs Wishlist'.
So it makes sense to ask how many quickdraws are needed.
Maybe be less suspicious?
 

In reply to Lankyman:

There's a wishlist for Winspit, but latest climbs aren't visible...... you seem quick to question.....benefit of the doubt perhaps??

 Lankyman 23 Aug 2024
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

> There's a wishlist for Winspit, but latest climbs aren't visible...... you seem quick to question.....benefit of the doubt perhaps??

Yes, my lack of reading skills!

1
 wercat 23 Aug 2024
In reply to Lankyman:

well I remember early climbing days at Swanage where a friend who had a huge rack ran out of gear on one of the severes at Subluminal - we had to lower a toprope!

He went on to be a professor of Botany in the US.

So probably n+1

and I seem to remember a shortage of the smaller sized nuts was a bit of a drawback there.

Post edited at 19:27
In reply to solomonuptonjubber:

Meanwhile, to answer the question, ten will be plenty.

jcm

1
 Lankyman 23 Aug 2024
In reply to wercat:

> well I remember early climbing days at Swanage where a friend who had a huge rack ran out of gear on one of the severes at Subluminal - we had to lower a toprope!

I loved Swanage back in the eighties and went there lots of times when Pembroke got all the attention. I think the topouts on steep soil/grass put a lot of folks off? I was trying Stroof (E1 5c) at Subluminal and there were a couple watching me very intently as I got a small wire in then flew off. When I got to the top they came over and the bloke said he was glad I'd lobbed off because he then knew the gear worked. They were French and had come over for a trip and had never seen trad gear in use.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

IIRC, nothing is longer than 20m, so I was going to suggest 8-10.

Not sure of the current state of the instability restrictions.

 tew 23 Aug 2024
In reply to solomonuptonjubber:

My rule for most sport routes in the UK you'll need 10 to 15 max. There might be a few routes that you'll need more than 15, but they are rare.

For you own rack I'd get 10 and then save up and get an extra 5 at some point (Christmas present to yourself?)

 PaulJepson 23 Aug 2024
In reply to solomonuptonjubber:

Usually the length of the route is a good indicator. A qd/2m is generally about right. More if the gear/rock is not great or the route looks wandery. 


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