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Virgin rock with strong unclimbed lines are scarce in England. The climbing magazines used to be full of news reports documenting major ascents, and battles between competing teams vying for plum lines. Now it is slim pickings. Areas get makeovers (read: requipped or retrobolted) and micro-lines bet...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Awesome.
I notice Scotland now falls under World rather than UK News, isn't this a bit premature, there hasn't even been a referendum yet?
Awesome.
I notice Scotland now falls under World rather than UK News, isn't this a bit premature, there hasn't even been a referendum yet?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Are you going to change the other 'World news' items as well?
> (In reply to jacob davies)
>
Now changed.
>
Are you going to change the other 'World news' items as well?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
"Where is the promised land? Not on your doorstep that is for sure. The sea cliffs and especially mountain crags of Scotland, when the weather holds, still give up their secrets for those prepared to put the effort in."
Was that meant to be humorous?
What an insulting, patronising load of shite you post!! This really does make my blood boil Mick, for those of us who live in Scotland, the promised land is actually ON our doorstep, and many, MANY of us take full advantage, and count oorselves luckiest in the world to do so!
How narrow your scope must be.
UKC? Anglocentric? Shome mishtake shurely.....
"Where is the promised land? Not on your doorstep that is for sure. The sea cliffs and especially mountain crags of Scotland, when the weather holds, still give up their secrets for those prepared to put the effort in."
Was that meant to be humorous?
What an insulting, patronising load of shite you post!! This really does make my blood boil Mick, for those of us who live in Scotland, the promised land is actually ON our doorstep, and many, MANY of us take full advantage, and count oorselves luckiest in the world to do so!
How narrow your scope must be.
UKC? Anglocentric? Shome mishtake shurely.....
In reply to blueshound: its just adding a bit of drama to the whole thing, schtop whining!
In reply to blueshound:
Even if you live in Scotland, the virgin territory is hardly on your doorstep. The accessible stuff has mostly been picked over. You still have to travel, put the effort in, and explore. Perhaps easier than for those in the south.
Yes you are lucky.
Even if you live in Scotland, the virgin territory is hardly on your doorstep. The accessible stuff has mostly been picked over. You still have to travel, put the effort in, and explore. Perhaps easier than for those in the south.
Yes you are lucky.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Sorry Mick, but I'm with Blueshound on this one. You're describing Scotland in the news report as if it's seperate from the UK, and that no UKC readers actually live there.
Just to illustrate the point, I was climbing last night at a crag on the Scottish seacliffs which a few of us have developed over the last couple of years. And funnily enough, it was pretty much on my doorstep.
Sorry Mick, but I'm with Blueshound on this one. You're describing Scotland in the news report as if it's seperate from the UK, and that no UKC readers actually live there.
Just to illustrate the point, I was climbing last night at a crag on the Scottish seacliffs which a few of us have developed over the last couple of years. And funnily enough, it was pretty much on my doorstep.
In reply to blueshound:
pardon me sir but you seem to have got some stand stuck in your ladies' special place
At a guess I would say that 99% of the readership of this website does not, in fact, live at the foot of scottish mountains, I'm sure that this doesn't come as a surprise. So the point of your post is what, would you like some attention? Well here you go, well done.
> What an insulting, patronising load of shite you post!! This really does make my blood boil Mick,
pardon me sir but you seem to have got some stand stuck in your ladies' special place
At a guess I would say that 99% of the readership of this website does not, in fact, live at the foot of scottish mountains, I'm sure that this doesn't come as a surprise. So the point of your post is what, would you like some attention? Well here you go, well done.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
As many people who've got my Cuillin book will know, I mention that one of the very first pioneers there, Lawrence Pilkington, described the sight of the Cuillin on the distant horizon as 'a glimpse of the Promised Land'. It still holds true today.
As many people who've got my Cuillin book will know, I mention that one of the very first pioneers there, Lawrence Pilkington, described the sight of the Cuillin on the distant horizon as 'a glimpse of the Promised Land'. It still holds true today.
In reply to Smitz:
> (In reply to blueshound)
> pardon me sir but you seem to have got some stand stuck in your ladies' special place
>
Aye and some people can't find some world famous crags/routes with easy access. Have you found Dream of White Horses yet? > pardon me sir but you seem to have got some stand stuck in your ladies' special place
>
In reply to blueshound:
Define doorstep. I'd say getting to the head of Loch Coruisk isn't on anybody's doorstep.
Define doorstep. I'd say getting to the head of Loch Coruisk isn't on anybody's doorstep.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Great book Gordon. One I keep re-reading. Saw it on shelf of Borders in York on Saturday so still on sale for anybody who doesn't have it.
Great book Gordon. One I keep re-reading. Saw it on shelf of Borders in York on Saturday so still on sale for anybody who doesn't have it.
In reply to Stuart S:
Not at all.
You are lucky and an exception.
There are always exceptions. I'm talking generally. In the UK most of the accessible stuff has been "developed".........if you have the new route fever, you have to travel, whether you live in Glasgow or Plymouth.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> You're describing Scotland in the news report as if it's seperate from the UK, and that no UKC readers actually live there.
>
> You're describing Scotland in the news report as if it's seperate from the UK, and that no UKC readers actually live there.
Not at all.
> Just to illustrate the point, I was climbing last night at a crag on the Scottish seacliffs which a few of us have developed over the last couple of years. And funnily enough, it was pretty much on my doorstep.
You are lucky and an exception.
There are always exceptions. I'm talking generally. In the UK most of the accessible stuff has been "developed".........if you have the new route fever, you have to travel, whether you live in Glasgow or Plymouth.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Sitting just to my left Gordon, opened on page 138........also open "World Mountaineering" by Salkeld.
Off to Skye on Sunday.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> As many people who've got my Cuillin book will know,
>
> As many people who've got my Cuillin book will know,
Sitting just to my left Gordon, opened on page 138........also open "World Mountaineering" by Salkeld.
Off to Skye on Sunday.
In reply to Norrie Muir: yeah it's right on my doorstep And now I'm going to throw a hissy fit about it because this is a geographical / political forum, and not a climbing forum reporting news about the sport we all share and enjoy.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
My friend drove to Skye from Glasgow, did a new winter route and drove back home.
Get real, this is the 21st Century, did you know there is now a road bridge to Skye?
>
> There are always exceptions. I'm talking generally. In the UK most of the accessible stuff has been "developed".........if you have the new route fever, you have to travel, whether you live in Glasgow or Plymouth.
> There are always exceptions. I'm talking generally. In the UK most of the accessible stuff has been "developed".........if you have the new route fever, you have to travel, whether you live in Glasgow or Plymouth.
My friend drove to Skye from Glasgow, did a new winter route and drove back home.
Get real, this is the 21st Century, did you know there is now a road bridge to Skye?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Hmmm - I still think you could have worded your report a little better, but we'll just have to agree to disagree on that.
Anyway, this is all an aside. The main point of the thread is that Dave Birkett put in a lot of effort and travelled a long way to come home with an extremely impressive new line on a fantastic bit of rock.
Hmmm - I still think you could have worded your report a little better, but we'll just have to agree to disagree on that.
Anyway, this is all an aside. The main point of the thread is that Dave Birkett put in a lot of effort and travelled a long way to come home with an extremely impressive new line on a fantastic bit of rock.
In reply to Smitz:
This is a climbing forum, which you are a stranger to. If you what to make snidy remarks, stick to a forum you normally post on.
> (In reply to Norrie Muir) yeah it's right on my doorstep And now I'm going to throw a hissy fit about it because this is a geographical / political forum, and not a climbing forum reporting news about the sport we all share and enjoy.
This is a climbing forum, which you are a stranger to. If you what to make snidy remarks, stick to a forum you normally post on.
In reply to Norrie Muir:
The sort of thing Mick Fowler used to do from London.
Define doorstep.
>
> My friend drove to Skye from Glasgow, did a new winter route and drove back home.
> My friend drove to Skye from Glasgow, did a new winter route and drove back home.
The sort of thing Mick Fowler used to do from London.
>
> Get real, this is the 21st Century, did you know there is now a road bridge to Skye?
> Get real, this is the 21st Century, did you know there is now a road bridge to Skye?
Define doorstep.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Take about a gallon of midge repellent )
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> [...]
>
> Sitting just to my left Gordon, opened on page 138........also open "World Mountaineering" by Salkeld.
>
> Off to Skye on Sunday.
> [...]
>
> Sitting just to my left Gordon, opened on page 138........also open "World Mountaineering" by Salkeld.
>
> Off to Skye on Sunday.
Take about a gallon of midge repellent )
In reply to Norrie Muir:
Because what seems to be upsetting people is Mick's use of the word doorstep and the implication that Loch Coruisk is out in the sticks. For most people it might as well be on the dark side of the moon.
Anyway, well done to Dave & Alan.
Because what seems to be upsetting people is Mick's use of the word doorstep and the implication that Loch Coruisk is out in the sticks. For most people it might as well be on the dark side of the moon.
Anyway, well done to Dave & Alan.
In reply to Stuart S:
agree totally. Loads of undeveloped stuff, within walking distance of my house. Just need a pair of eyes and a pair of feet to find it. But them I guess I must be one of the hundered of exceptions.
As you say though, it is a digression, and Dave Birkett has once again proved his pedigree.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Sorry Mick, but I'm with Blueshound on this one. You're describing Scotland in the news report as if it's seperate from the UK, and that no UKC readers actually live there.
>
> Just to illustrate the point, I was climbing last night at a crag on the Scottish seacliffs which a few of us have developed over the last couple of years. And funnily enough, it was pretty much on my doorstep.
>
> Sorry Mick, but I'm with Blueshound on this one. You're describing Scotland in the news report as if it's seperate from the UK, and that no UKC readers actually live there.
>
> Just to illustrate the point, I was climbing last night at a crag on the Scottish seacliffs which a few of us have developed over the last couple of years. And funnily enough, it was pretty much on my doorstep.
agree totally. Loads of undeveloped stuff, within walking distance of my house. Just need a pair of eyes and a pair of feet to find it. But them I guess I must be one of the hundered of exceptions.
As you say though, it is a digression, and Dave Birkett has once again proved his pedigree.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
What an amazing route. What an amazing wall. Nice one Dave! Looks like some really hard lines to go either side, especially if the easiest line is E7/8!
What an amazing route. What an amazing wall. Nice one Dave! Looks like some really hard lines to go either side, especially if the easiest line is E7/8!
In reply to sandywilson:
First thanks for your compliments about my book.
'On your doorstep' used metaphorically does not of course mean literally outside one's front (or back!) door, but it certainly means somewhere very, very close i.e within a few minutes walk or drive. Any other use of the expression would be a very loose metaphor indeed. This new 'Sky Wall' is clearly not on any one's doorstep. It would still be a gross exaggeration to describe it as being on the doorstep of the Coruisk hut. Still quite a long walk in.
First thanks for your compliments about my book.
'On your doorstep' used metaphorically does not of course mean literally outside one's front (or back!) door, but it certainly means somewhere very, very close i.e within a few minutes walk or drive. Any other use of the expression would be a very loose metaphor indeed. This new 'Sky Wall' is clearly not on any one's doorstep. It would still be a gross exaggeration to describe it as being on the doorstep of the Coruisk hut. Still quite a long walk in.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
True, but Mick was referring more generally to "the promised land of Scottish seacliffs and mountain crags", and not specifically Coruisk, which is why I think the wording of his report was poor.
True, but Mick was referring more generally to "the promised land of Scottish seacliffs and mountain crags", and not specifically Coruisk, which is why I think the wording of his report was poor.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Well the VS pitch sounds good anyway. Looks amazing, but is it the most amazing wall of rock in the U.K?
In reply to Stuart S:
"Where is the promised land? Not on your doorstep that is for sure. The sea cliffs and especially mountain crags of Scotland, when the weather holds, still give up their secrets for those prepared to put the effort in."
And your problem with this paragraph is?
"Where is the promised land? Not on your doorstep that is for sure. The sea cliffs and especially mountain crags of Scotland, when the weather holds, still give up their secrets for those prepared to put the effort in."
And your problem with this paragraph is?
In reply to sandywilson:
Because this "promised land", including Scottish sea cliffs, is on my doorstep, and that of many other posters on UKC.
As I posted above, I was climbing there last night on a newly developed crag. Do pay attention.
Because this "promised land", including Scottish sea cliffs, is on my doorstep, and that of many other posters on UKC.
As I posted above, I was climbing there last night on a newly developed crag. Do pay attention.
In reply to Stuart S:
OK, but can I suggest that we now all move on from this nitpicking discussion? We all know exactly what Mick meant, and for anyone to take offense to it is frankly absurd. Yes, he could have worded it a less general way.
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
>
> True, but Mick was referring more generally to "the promised land of Scottish seacliffs and mountain crags", and not specifically Coruisk, which is why I think the wording of his report was poor.
>
> True, but Mick was referring more generally to "the promised land of Scottish seacliffs and mountain crags", and not specifically Coruisk, which is why I think the wording of his report was poor.
OK, but can I suggest that we now all move on from this nitpicking discussion? We all know exactly what Mick meant, and for anyone to take offense to it is frankly absurd. Yes, he could have worded it a less general way.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Point is: not much virgin rock in England, most of the good stuff is up in Scotland. It is the promised land. Whichever way you look at it, new routing takes effort: not as easy as it once was in the early days.
Offending, "doorstep" quote removed.
Thanks for the nit-pick, I'd never expect a good effort on here.
Now I must get on. This site needs editorial content and it is my job, amongst others, to make sure that we get it.
But saying that I do appreciate being kept on my toes and enjoy the dynamics of this media compared to print. Just try complaining to one of the mags - you'll get ignored.
Mick
Point is: not much virgin rock in England, most of the good stuff is up in Scotland. It is the promised land. Whichever way you look at it, new routing takes effort: not as easy as it once was in the early days.
Offending, "doorstep" quote removed.
Thanks for the nit-pick, I'd never expect a good effort on here.
Now I must get on. This site needs editorial content and it is my job, amongst others, to make sure that we get it.
But saying that I do appreciate being kept on my toes and enjoy the dynamics of this media compared to print. Just try complaining to one of the mags - you'll get ignored.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: a magnificent achievement, in some of the best Cuillin conditions in living memory, and nae midges yet.
The wall surely is on Coir'-Uisg Buttress, which is quite well seen on page 55 of Gordon Stainforth's superb "The Cuillin" (digression - also try page 65 for one of the top ten British mountain photographs). If so, the buttress was first climbed in 1949, and had at least five routes from severe to E1 which skirt the Sky Wall face to the left and right.
The wall surely is on Coir'-Uisg Buttress, which is quite well seen on page 55 of Gordon Stainforth's superb "The Cuillin" (digression - also try page 65 for one of the top ten British mountain photographs). If so, the buttress was first climbed in 1949, and had at least five routes from severe to E1 which skirt the Sky Wall face to the left and right.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Yes, it's one of the merits of this website: it's brilliantly interactive. Cheers Mick!
Yes, it's one of the merits of this website: it's brilliantly interactive. Cheers Mick!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I guess that's life Mick - no one tends to say much when they're happy.
Anyway, sorry for nit-picking, thanks for the revision to the report and keep up the good work on the news front. I know I appreciate it.
> Thanks for the nit-pick, I'd never expect a good effort on here.
I guess that's life Mick - no one tends to say much when they're happy.
Anyway, sorry for nit-picking, thanks for the revision to the report and keep up the good work on the news front. I know I appreciate it.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: looks like a properly awesome route!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Sounds like southern raiders have ruffled a few feathers - some things never change!
Chris
Sounds like southern raiders have ruffled a few feathers - some things never change!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Now Chris, stop stirring - when Dave's efforts have been mentioned (as opposed to nit picking about the reporting), no one has been anything other than complimentary.
Now Chris, stop stirring - when Dave's efforts have been mentioned (as opposed to nit picking about the reporting), no one has been anything other than complimentary.
In reply to Stuart S:
I agree that Scotland is the "promised land" and can't wait to apply for my passport. However, the vast majority of UKC posters don't have high quality and largly unexplored cliffs on their doorsteps. Even living on Skye, Loch Coruisk is not easy to get to.
I'm jealous!
>
> Because this "promised land", including Scottish sea cliffs, is on my doorstep, and that of many other posters on UKC.
> Because this "promised land", including Scottish sea cliffs, is on my doorstep, and that of many other posters on UKC.
I agree that Scotland is the "promised land" and can't wait to apply for my passport. However, the vast majority of UKC posters don't have high quality and largly unexplored cliffs on their doorsteps. Even living on Skye, Loch Coruisk is not easy to get to.
>
> As I posted above, I was climbing there last night on a newly developed crag. Do pay attention.
> As I posted above, I was climbing there last night on a newly developed crag. Do pay attention.
I'm jealous!
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Act your age, not your UK shoe size.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Sounds like southern raiders have ruffled a few feathers - some things never change!
>
> Sounds like southern raiders have ruffled a few feathers - some things never change!
Act your age, not your UK shoe size.
In reply to Norrie Muir:
Come on Norrie, Corruisk is a tad "out of the way" to say the least! For me (in Aberdeen) it would be quicker and easier to get to Chamonix.
There's right and wrong here. Right in the suggestion that Mr Birkett's new route is well and truly up the arse of the back end of nowhere. Wrong in the suggestion that you have to travel far to find good new routes in Scotland.
The worst part of this is that Mr Birkett has found Nirvana, I fear the flood gates are open...here's hoping for a dry summer!
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> My friend drove to Skye from Glasgow, did a new winter route and drove back home.
>
> Get real, this is the 21st Century, did you know there is now a road bridge to Skye?
> [...]
>
> My friend drove to Skye from Glasgow, did a new winter route and drove back home.
>
> Get real, this is the 21st Century, did you know there is now a road bridge to Skye?
Come on Norrie, Corruisk is a tad "out of the way" to say the least! For me (in Aberdeen) it would be quicker and easier to get to Chamonix.
There's right and wrong here. Right in the suggestion that Mr Birkett's new route is well and truly up the arse of the back end of nowhere. Wrong in the suggestion that you have to travel far to find good new routes in Scotland.
The worst part of this is that Mr Birkett has found Nirvana, I fear the flood gates are open...here's hoping for a dry summer!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Send it to Private Eye Lookalikes?
http://www.widerange.org/photo.php?id=603&gallery=blackCanyon
I cant think of any witty caption tho...
Send it to Private Eye Lookalikes?
http://www.widerange.org/photo.php?id=603&gallery=blackCanyon
I cant think of any witty caption tho...
In reply:
Fantastic inspiring effort by Dave Birkett. Would be good to see more of this type of adventurous new routing in the mountains.
Davie
Fantastic inspiring effort by Dave Birkett. Would be good to see more of this type of adventurous new routing in the mountains.
Davie
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