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NEWS: Canadian Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11

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 Michael Ryan 14 May 2007
Canadian top climber Sonnie Trotter, 27, of Canmore, first ascensionist of that other hardest crack in the world, Cobra Crack 5.14 at Squamish, is over at Dumbarton Rock trying Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody.

This from Sonnie's blog

"I've been home in Canmore for three weeks and it...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Chris Harris 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>We managed a few top rope ascents of E8's

Tut, tut. No idea of ethics, these Yanks.....
Ackbar 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: That's amazing! Can you imagine? Camping in a scottish park!?! He gets the E11 tick for that
 Flatlander 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

glamerous life of a climbing rock star sleeping in the park in the rain :P



 ligaya 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: rather him than me sleeping in a park in Glasgow
 hamish2016 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

how come you removed the "IT SUCKS ASS" that featured in Sonnie's original blog?
 Fiend 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

> I had a chance to run a toprope up on his new E11 and it's sick. I saw the video they made last year, and he makes the crux look like piss, when in actual reality, it's NASTY hard, BRICK hard.

Interesting stuff! Will he beat Keenus to it? Will the difficulty be confirmed?

P.S. On a vaguely related note: http://www.wdcweb.info/library/displayarticle.asp?ID=12473 - Dave....the jumper....please, NO.
 JimR 14 May 2007
In reply to Fiend:

That is a seriously bad jumper, if Dave is wearing that through choice he owes us all a public apology.
 niggle 14 May 2007
In reply to JimR:

Dave Macleod: great climber, not such great dress sense.
 Ben Stokes Global Crag Moderator 14 May 2007
In reply to niggle:

Could do with a haircut too...
 TN 14 May 2007
In reply to Fiend:

That's a *nice* jumper!
 niggle 14 May 2007
In reply to Ben Stokes:

Phew, ouch.

I'm not going to say more, Dave might read this after all.
 JLS 14 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Later in the week, I'll try and report on what Sonnie has been wearing while top roping and I'll try to get some insight into what he intends to wear for the headpoint attempt. After all, climbing is all about style these days.
 sir 14 May 2007
In reply to: ligaya

I'm I missing something, when did Glasgow ever have a beach?

Paul
 niggle 14 May 2007
In reply to JLS:

> climbing is all about style these days.

Damn straight. The right logo can make the difference between sending and decking. I heard that Norrie owned some pretty serious sunglasses back in the day.
 Morgan Woods 14 May 2007
In reply to Hamish Dunn:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> how come you removed the "IT SUCKS ASS" that featured in Sonnie's original blog?

good spot...that does indeed SUCK ASS.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Shirley one of the glasgi boys (or girls) could show the lads a bit of hospitality?
 sir 14 May 2007
In reply to Papillon:

Your point is. Dumbie is not in Glasgow

Paul
 JLS 14 May 2007
In reply to Richard Bradley:

>"Shirley one of the glasgi boys (or girls) could show the lads a bit of hospitality?"

What do you want me to do, hang about the park till he turn up and ask him if he want's to come back to my place? The last time I did that the big hitter climber turned out to be an under cover policeman!
 TobyA 14 May 2007
In reply to JLS:

> What do you want me to do, hang about the park till he turn up and ask him if he want's to come back to my place? The last time I did that the big hitter climber turned out to be an under cover policeman!

LOL!

You could ask him the beta on headwall moves then check it with Dave Mc just to be sure. I also suspect even the smartest of Weegie undercover cops might not be able to pull off a convincing Canadian accent!

Hopefully someone will find them and offer them a floor to sleep on soon though! Sonnie is a real rock star after all.
 Adam Lincoln 14 May 2007
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> [...]
>
> Interesting stuff! Will he beat Keenus to it? Will the difficulty be confirmed?

Probably, as Keenus is in Asia for another 6 weeks!
 JLS 14 May 2007
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Is Keenus aka James Pearson or someone else? My finger seems to have slipped off the pulse...
 Sankey 14 May 2007
In reply to Richard Bradley:

I think it is part of Dave Mc's / locals masterplan to wear the poor guy down by letting him sleep in a park, ensuring the E11 grade is confirmed...
 Adam Lincoln 14 May 2007
In reply to JLS:

The very same.
 JLS 14 May 2007
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Has he been and had a look / play on / serious pull on Rhapsody then?
 tony 14 May 2007
In reply to JLS:

No, not yet.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Totally stella news, great to see hardcore grimpers on the road!! sleeping with the down and outs in the local park, thats prety full on comitment.

Come on you tight wads in GlasVegas, get the dudes some floor space. Heres hoping the weather picks up a little for these guys.
 Niall 14 May 2007
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Later in the week, I'll try and report on what Sonnie has been wearing while top roping and I'll try to get some insight into what he intends to wear for the headpoint attempt. After all, climbing is all about style these days.

Are you the reincarnation of Jude Calvin-Tourettes?

 MRJ 14 May 2007
In reply to Niall:
Dave posted on SC saying that the guys have been staying with him in between camping and stuff.
Sounds like he his pretty determined to get it, I hope he pulls it off.

-MagnuS
 Mike Stretford 14 May 2007
In reply to sir:
> (In reply to Papillon)
>
> Your point is. Dumbie is not in Glasgow
>
> Paul

Not really making a point, in the article it said Dumbarton...I was curious as I didn't know it had a beach so I googled Dumbarton...and posted the link in reply to you to be helpful.

monkey22 14 May 2007
In reply to Chris Harris:

'Canadian top climber Sonnie Trotter'

But it might as well be the USA
 Glyn Jones 14 May 2007
In reply to Dave MacLeod: pmsl!

Just countered your vote for the jumper!
 nz Cragrat 14 May 2007
In reply to monkey22:

He certainly (Trotter) has a riveting blog. I guess he is too busy climbing hard to write and post. I would have loved to see what he did in Australia but ....
 nick nc 14 May 2007
In reply to Dave MacLeod: Brilliant. Also PMSL.
I love your jumper. In fact, if you want some more, I've got some just like it, also given as presents. You could start a collection.
Dom Orsler 15 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

My money's on Sonnie pulling it off with relative ease (NB 'RELATIVE'). It's his style, he's sent quite a bit in the 8c - 9a range and has balls comparable in size to Dave. Allegedly.
luke skywalker 15 May 2007
In reply to Dom Orsler:

oh but Dom, his will only get bigger with you hanging off them like that!
 tobyfk 15 May 2007
In reply to Ackbar:
> That's amazing! Can you imagine? Camping in a scottish park!?! He gets the E11 tick for that

We've been sleeping in a park by the beach. I'm not sure yet if it is illegal but we've gotten a few nights sleep so far without problems, it's free and the water is soothing to fall asleep to. So that's a bonus. The downfall is that it rains here 22 hours a day.

Sounds like it should get an alpine grade ...
 Max factor 15 May 2007
In reply to tobyfk:

It is alright. The weather will save Scottish climbing's virtue yet again.
In reply to Max_01: Perfect day for it today, cool sunny and breezy.....pity he's not in the country now.
 Wingnut 15 May 2007
In reply to nick nc:
I quite like the jumper, but it needs some lycra tights with it to complete the full effect.
 JLS 15 May 2007
In reply to Wingnut:

DuPont are designing a fabric with the necessary tensile strength as we post.
Dom Orsler 15 May 2007
In reply to luke skywalker:

Ha!

Applying that theory to the number of people hanging off Dave's balls would put him up there with Wembley, methinks...
Dom Orsler 16 May 2007
In reply to Ackbar:

A friend and I camped in a Scottish park once on the outskirts of Glasgow during a disasterous trip to the Ben. We were woken up early by half a brick hitting (and damaging) the tent and raving screams of insult. An odd thing happens when you're in a tent in that kind of situation. You feel extremely scared and vulnerable, as you can't see anything and are surrounded by fabric. That fear quite rapidly blossoms into anger and reciprocal aggression. Quite annoyed, I swiftly pulled on my jeans, grabbed an ice axe and emerged into the snowy morn from the tent ready for action. A nearby bloke was walking his dog and looked at me with a surprised expression on his face, immediately put his head down and walked off rapidly in the opposite direction. It must have been him hurling the brick and insults, and I suppose he didn't expect a well built young man to emerge holding an ice axe.
 220bpm 18 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Respect due to a bloke from half way round the world making the effort to come try the mighty Rhapsody.
Hope he makes it and gives a comparison with Cobra Crack.

So come on Dave, get some dosh together and head to Squamish for a session!
 niggle 18 May 2007
In reply to 220bpm:

Well, there's a group of Edinburgh climbers out there already (penny, ed and some others), so I'm sure they'd be happy to put dave up, belay him and all the rest!
 stevomcd 18 May 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

They must be crashing in Postie's Park, just the other side of the Leven from Mount Dumby. That'll be fun.
 catt 18 May 2007
In reply to stevomcd:

they're using ballach country park apparently. which is quite nice.

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