UKC

On 29/04 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer (23) carried out the second solo ascent of the legendary Via attraverso il Pesce (aka The Fish) on the south face of the Marmolada, the Dolomites, after Maurizio Giordan's 1990 ascent (who self-belayed on some pitches). This is the first free solo without ...

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In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

'Kin ell. That's gobsmacking. Given the reputation this route has, and experience on neighbouring routes, that's just an amazing effort.

In reply to GDes:

AND in 2 hrs 55 mins! AND 3 years ago he couldnt even redpoint it! AND only spent 5 hours on the route on an ab rope previously!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I've got sweaty palms just looking at the picture. Need chalk!!!!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Really is an astounding ascent, congrtulations on it.

People wondering about getting in the zone and what it is should read the article, being there for a route that long takes some doing.

In reply to sutty:

Topo and photo of the route:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/Rock/routes/Detail.html?skip=1&gr...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Fabulous achievement, just lost for words really!

I'm sure he'll continue to impress the world with more incredible ascents. check this website out: www.oetztalclimbing.com its a climbing site from the valley of oetztal, Austria, where Hans is from.

In reply to oetzi:

Lovely pic of him before the ascent.

Just click on the photo: http://www.oetztalclimbing.com/content/

Cheers Oetzi

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Didn't Neil Bentley have a serious accident on The Fish route?

In reply to luke skywalker:

Yes, a large hold came off IIRC

Did this route used to get 8a ?

In reply to Simon Lee:

Didn't Bentley fall off on easy ground....due to loose rock?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

All the more unbelievable as he doesn't appear to have a gritstone pedigree - How can that be!!

I can only asume that his AWSOME success is due to wearing fancy shoes and not carrying a rucksac, and there's that chalky stuff.

I suppose some grudging kudos will have to be given, but will reserve my big high five for when he solos Russet Groove at Bowden.



In a more serious vein, I have no idea how someone can hold it together on something like this, where the consequences of a tiny error are catastrophic. It sends a shiver down my spine imagining it. V, V Well done him.

Steve

In reply to SteveSBlake:

He travelled light, rockboots, helmet chalkbag and light jacket. Must have been a bit draughty going commando.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Gobsmacking. Absolutely. Is this the hardest free-solo ever? It might well be.

In reply to jwi:

Multi-pitch or single pitch? Not single that's for sure. Would have to check on the multi.....I know in the USA Mike Reardon has done multi-pitch 5.12..Romantic Warrior at the Needles....Not sure what Croft and Bachar have done in the 5.12 range.

Many Fr 8a and harder I think single-pitch solos.

Where is the climbing record encyclopeadia?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Romantic Warrior is 12b and only 7 pitches, on good rock. This is 12c and 33 pitches on limestone (crap rock)

Hardest single pitch freesolos are 14a (eg. Huber, Kommunist)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yeah, I know that single pitch 8b+ with the hardest part in the death-zone has been free-soloed. But for overall difficulty it seems, from the comfort of my tatami-mat, to be a big step up from stuff like Hasse-Brandler and various multi-pitch cracks in the US.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That is a route I wouldn't even get off the ground on. I am very impressed!

In reply to luke skywalker:

He's not the only one. Ines Papert pulled a flake off two years ago and had to be helicoptered off. Interview in German here:

http://www.mountains2b.com/206-Interview_mit_Ines_Papert_092005_Marmolada-,...

In reply to alex_th:
This is an amazing solo. I have done the route, but it took 18 hours! To solo this route is akin to soloing just about every route on High Tor in a row with Bastille as pitch 12, Supersonic as pitch 14 and Castellan as pitch 15.