This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Thought that while the weather's this rubbish some nostalgia (and hopefully inspiration) wouldn't go amiss...
So what were your most memorable/favourite routes at each grade and why? Can be for any reason - quality climbing, long held ambition, good company, incidents on/before/after the route etc etc etc - the more stories and routes that come up the better!
So what were your most memorable/favourite routes at each grade and why? Can be for any reason - quality climbing, long held ambition, good company, incidents on/before/after the route etc etc etc - the more stories and routes that come up the better!
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Spiral Stairs - Cromlech
HS - Main Wall - Cyrn Las
VS - Mickledore Grooves - Scafell Buttress
HVS - Centaur - East Buttress Scafell
E1 - The Shrike - Cloggy
...
E4 - The Axe (only 2nd it - but wow what a route)
All for the same reason, brilliant routes with great mates.
Diff - Spiral Stairs - Cromlech
HS - Main Wall - Cyrn Las
VS - Mickledore Grooves - Scafell Buttress
HVS - Centaur - East Buttress Scafell
E1 - The Shrike - Cloggy
...
E4 - The Axe (only 2nd it - but wow what a route)
All for the same reason, brilliant routes with great mates.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - First Pinnacle Rib, Tryfan. Because a mate and I did it as part of the "3 classics in a day", moving together, very fast, and topped out on Adam and Eve to a crowd of applauding schoolkids. Quite surreal.
VDiff - Flying Buttress, Dinas Cromlech. Because it was my first time climbing in the Pass, and I hadn't realised there were easier routes there, and had always thought I'd never be good enough to climb there.
Severe - Crackstone Rib, Carreg Wastad. Just for the position and the moves onto the rib. Lovely route.
HS - Toss up between Demo Route, Doorpost and Sea Mist. All lovely examples of sea cliff routes, and nice for the grade. Main Wall would be up there as well, except I climbed that in a downpour and thunderstorm.
VS - Time for some grit routes I think. Let's add Via Dolorosa at the Roaches, and Martello Buttress at Stanage. If the experience is more important than the route, I'll say climbing at Crystal Slabs, Pembroke. 50m VS routes with the crux at the top really tested me, but were great fun!
HVS - haven't really led enough to comment on, although Chequers Buttress was memorable as my first HVS and 3PS as my second (and memorable because I only did it as a result of a sulky strop at Nick who had told me that maybe Sunset Slab would be too hard for me)
E1 - seconded a couple, nothing memorable yet
Diff - First Pinnacle Rib, Tryfan. Because a mate and I did it as part of the "3 classics in a day", moving together, very fast, and topped out on Adam and Eve to a crowd of applauding schoolkids. Quite surreal.
VDiff - Flying Buttress, Dinas Cromlech. Because it was my first time climbing in the Pass, and I hadn't realised there were easier routes there, and had always thought I'd never be good enough to climb there.
Severe - Crackstone Rib, Carreg Wastad. Just for the position and the moves onto the rib. Lovely route.
HS - Toss up between Demo Route, Doorpost and Sea Mist. All lovely examples of sea cliff routes, and nice for the grade. Main Wall would be up there as well, except I climbed that in a downpour and thunderstorm.
VS - Time for some grit routes I think. Let's add Via Dolorosa at the Roaches, and Martello Buttress at Stanage. If the experience is more important than the route, I'll say climbing at Crystal Slabs, Pembroke. 50m VS routes with the crux at the top really tested me, but were great fun!
HVS - haven't really led enough to comment on, although Chequers Buttress was memorable as my first HVS and 3PS as my second (and memorable because I only did it as a result of a sulky strop at Nick who had told me that maybe Sunset Slab would be too hard for me)
E1 - seconded a couple, nothing memorable yet
In reply to Andy Hobson:
VD - Hope. Lovely to solo with fluid movement and nice positions.
HS - Tennis Shoe. Great situations and some easy climbing in the mid-section. Make sure this includes the tower finish. Valerie's Rib is also a peach on Tremadog.
VS - The File. I love hand-jamming. I could have gone for Valkyrie, which is a joy, but The File shades it.
HVS - Chequer's Buttress. This is a toughy because there are so many beautiful routes in the HVS grade. I could have gone for a variety - including one of my own "The Silver Path" in Spain which is a lovely route.
E1 - Millsome's Minion. One of my few E1 leads and by far the best.
VD - Hope. Lovely to solo with fluid movement and nice positions.
HS - Tennis Shoe. Great situations and some easy climbing in the mid-section. Make sure this includes the tower finish. Valerie's Rib is also a peach on Tremadog.
VS - The File. I love hand-jamming. I could have gone for Valkyrie, which is a joy, but The File shades it.
HVS - Chequer's Buttress. This is a toughy because there are so many beautiful routes in the HVS grade. I could have gone for a variety - including one of my own "The Silver Path" in Spain which is a lovely route.
E1 - Millsome's Minion. One of my few E1 leads and by far the best.
In reply to VisionSet:
Diff Spiral stairs (first proper route)
V Diff Troutdale Pinnacle ( because its the best route in the world)
Severe Lots
VS Jean Jeanie, for obvious reasons
HVS Dream of White Horses (just because it is)
E1 Freebird ( for obvious reasons)
E2 , not sure, its a funny grade.
E3 Downhill racer
E4 Deja Vu
E5 Daytona Wall, for obvious reasons, and because I have not led many!
I stop there !!!!
Diff Spiral stairs (first proper route)
V Diff Troutdale Pinnacle ( because its the best route in the world)
Severe Lots
VS Jean Jeanie, for obvious reasons
HVS Dream of White Horses (just because it is)
E1 Freebird ( for obvious reasons)
E2 , not sure, its a funny grade.
E3 Downhill racer
E4 Deja Vu
E5 Daytona Wall, for obvious reasons, and because I have not led many!
I stop there !!!!
In reply to Andy Hobson:
E0 - Three Pebble Slab - first day on gritstone, first route above HVS. Hasn't got any easier over the years.
E0 - The Sloth - spent ages putting it off as I was so intimidated, even did Wombat before it, turned out to be easy and great fun.
E0 - Aeroflot - a really cute little route and a great example of a hidden gem.
E0 - The Arrow - generally I hate the uber-mediocre St Govans but this is one route that has the essential features of line and quality.
E0 - Fiend's Folly - although submitted as E1, this is closer to the mark, the first route of the most worthwhile new routing session I've done.
Mmmm that will do.
E0 - Three Pebble Slab - first day on gritstone, first route above HVS. Hasn't got any easier over the years.
E0 - The Sloth - spent ages putting it off as I was so intimidated, even did Wombat before it, turned out to be easy and great fun.
E0 - Aeroflot - a really cute little route and a great example of a hidden gem.
E0 - The Arrow - generally I hate the uber-mediocre St Govans but this is one route that has the essential features of line and quality.
E0 - Fiend's Folly - although submitted as E1, this is closer to the mark, the first route of the most worthwhile new routing session I've done.
Mmmm that will do.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff-- Corvus, because it was a gorgeous sunny day with beautiful views when I did it and it was a lovely mountain day out. Also first mountain route since I'd had a fall and it reminded me again why I love climbing.
V Diff-- Great Gully on Crag Yr Ysfa, though I spose it doesn't exactly count as a climb [] because it was the first time I felt as though I had contributed a hundred percent equally to the ascent and felt a great sense of achievement from it. I also loved the traverse pitch of Flying Buttress on Dinas Cromlech, another great route.
Severe-- Has to be C Route on Gimmer because it was part of my first ever mountain route (linked with Ash Tree Slabs), a fab day out.
HS-- Probably Skylon on Carreg Wastad because there was a great little airy move at one point on it that was really fun and I was really chuffed with the lead as hadn't climbed for a month and it was top of my lead grade.
VS-- Haha probably the first ever one I led at Almscliffe, Central Climb (mainly cos I've not led VS 4c since yet) because I got up the bloody thing which was a great achievement for me To second, which I have done more of at this grade, Birch Tree wall at Brimham and Central Route at the roaches, both beautiful routes that I'd love to lead at some point.
HVS-- only seconded 3 and didn't think much of any of them!!
E1 upwards, no experience as yet!
Diff-- Corvus, because it was a gorgeous sunny day with beautiful views when I did it and it was a lovely mountain day out. Also first mountain route since I'd had a fall and it reminded me again why I love climbing.
V Diff-- Great Gully on Crag Yr Ysfa, though I spose it doesn't exactly count as a climb [] because it was the first time I felt as though I had contributed a hundred percent equally to the ascent and felt a great sense of achievement from it. I also loved the traverse pitch of Flying Buttress on Dinas Cromlech, another great route.
Severe-- Has to be C Route on Gimmer because it was part of my first ever mountain route (linked with Ash Tree Slabs), a fab day out.
HS-- Probably Skylon on Carreg Wastad because there was a great little airy move at one point on it that was really fun and I was really chuffed with the lead as hadn't climbed for a month and it was top of my lead grade.
VS-- Haha probably the first ever one I led at Almscliffe, Central Climb (mainly cos I've not led VS 4c since yet) because I got up the bloody thing which was a great achievement for me To second, which I have done more of at this grade, Birch Tree wall at Brimham and Central Route at the roaches, both beautiful routes that I'd love to lead at some point.
HVS-- only seconded 3 and didn't think much of any of them!!
E1 upwards, no experience as yet!
In reply to Andy Hobson:
PS nice thread, it has cheered me up no end remembering those routes (Crappy day at work and fed up of weather!)
PS nice thread, it has cheered me up no end remembering those routes (Crappy day at work and fed up of weather!)
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Right Hand Pedestal, Roaches, led it when I was at school aged 15, happy days.
Great Slab Cloggy. Had read about the crag in the "Hard Years". First visit made a big impression.
The Rap, Gogarth, shat myself and never returned.
Needle Ridge, Gable, pleasant potter, done it loads of times wet or dry.
Naismiths, Am Bastier, Skye, wild exposure but quite straight forward.
Cosmiques Arete, Chamonix. Looked across at the Midi and realised a lot of the photos in On Snow and Ice and Rock by Ghastly Rubberfoot were taken there. My Bible when I was a kid.
Fingers crossed for less rain, eh Andy?
Right Hand Pedestal, Roaches, led it when I was at school aged 15, happy days.
Great Slab Cloggy. Had read about the crag in the "Hard Years". First visit made a big impression.
The Rap, Gogarth, shat myself and never returned.
Needle Ridge, Gable, pleasant potter, done it loads of times wet or dry.
Naismiths, Am Bastier, Skye, wild exposure but quite straight forward.
Cosmiques Arete, Chamonix. Looked across at the Midi and realised a lot of the photos in On Snow and Ice and Rock by Ghastly Rubberfoot were taken there. My Bible when I was a kid.
Fingers crossed for less rain, eh Andy?
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod: Probably Cneifion Arete - its about the only one I can really remember and it was a part of a good day out.
Diff: Fat Man's Chimney, Blck Rocks. Just for the amusement value.
VDiff: I'm torn between Left Edge, Carnedd y Filiast, and Heaven Crack. I think Left Edge probably pips it.
Severe: Integrity, Lundy
HS: Probably Central Groove, although strong cases were put forwards by Manchester Buttress and Right Angle.
VS: Grooved Arete on Rannoch Wall or Mur y Niwl on Craig y Ysfa
HVS: Bludger's Revelation, without question.
E1: Manzoku, at Stennis head.
E2: Crimtyphon, because its my only claim at the grade so far.
As for sport........
5: Sling Shot
6a:Wide is Love, Verdon
6a+ (or 6b perhaps): Papyrus, Ceuse
6b: Cannabis ou Nutella, Ceuse
6b+: the ones I've done haven't been particularly classic, but I'll pick Airbourne Attack at Cheddar because it was the first.
6c: Tied in Knots, Cheddar - the only one so far, but a good route as well.
AJM
Mod: Probably Cneifion Arete - its about the only one I can really remember and it was a part of a good day out.
Diff: Fat Man's Chimney, Blck Rocks. Just for the amusement value.
VDiff: I'm torn between Left Edge, Carnedd y Filiast, and Heaven Crack. I think Left Edge probably pips it.
Severe: Integrity, Lundy
HS: Probably Central Groove, although strong cases were put forwards by Manchester Buttress and Right Angle.
VS: Grooved Arete on Rannoch Wall or Mur y Niwl on Craig y Ysfa
HVS: Bludger's Revelation, without question.
E1: Manzoku, at Stennis head.
E2: Crimtyphon, because its my only claim at the grade so far.
As for sport........
5: Sling Shot
6a:Wide is Love, Verdon
6a+ (or 6b perhaps): Papyrus, Ceuse
6b: Cannabis ou Nutella, Ceuse
6b+: the ones I've done haven't been particularly classic, but I'll pick Airbourne Attack at Cheddar because it was the first.
6c: Tied in Knots, Cheddar - the only one so far, but a good route as well.
AJM
In reply to Fiend:
A fine line that looks bloody intimidating - I intend it to be my first and only E0... 8-)
bluebrad
> (In reply to Andy Hobson)
> E0 - Aeroflot - a really cute little route and a great example of a hidden gem.
A fine line that looks bloody intimidating - I intend it to be my first and only E0... 8-)
bluebrad
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Rowan Route, Milestone Butress
VDiff - Direct Route Milestone buttress. Both lovely routes with nice rock and nice moves.
Severe - Dental Slab at Rhylstone, maybe, or Troutdale Pinnacle
HS - Micah Eliminate finish of Christmas Curry at Tremadog, a really lovely pitch.
VS - Possibly Central Crack at Brimham. my fist Yorkshire VS - I fell off the start before I had placed any gear due to having suncream on my hands then battled the top off-width to the top and just burst out laughing. Brutal but brilliant.
Also Scavenger at 3 Cliffs was very good, as was Jim Nastic at Reiff, and Ellis's Eliminate at Stanage, and Hargreave's Original, and High Neb Butress and..... there are too many!!!
HVS - Either Red Rose Speedway at Symonds Yat or Harding's Super Direct at Stanage.
E1 - Long Tall Sally, Burbage North. One of my first E1s and a lovely route. On the top wall, I could hear drums and thought to myself 'what antisocial git is playing music?'....then I realised it was my own heart beat in my ears!
E2 - The Sentinal, Burbage North. It was my first and quite an intense experience as the gear was far worse than expected and I reversed the crux 3 times as I thought the crux would be higher up!
E3 - Parallel Piped, Froggatt. Again an intense experience in cold damp conditions and my first.
Diff - Rowan Route, Milestone Butress
VDiff - Direct Route Milestone buttress. Both lovely routes with nice rock and nice moves.
Severe - Dental Slab at Rhylstone, maybe, or Troutdale Pinnacle
HS - Micah Eliminate finish of Christmas Curry at Tremadog, a really lovely pitch.
VS - Possibly Central Crack at Brimham. my fist Yorkshire VS - I fell off the start before I had placed any gear due to having suncream on my hands then battled the top off-width to the top and just burst out laughing. Brutal but brilliant.
Also Scavenger at 3 Cliffs was very good, as was Jim Nastic at Reiff, and Ellis's Eliminate at Stanage, and Hargreave's Original, and High Neb Butress and..... there are too many!!!
HVS - Either Red Rose Speedway at Symonds Yat or Harding's Super Direct at Stanage.
E1 - Long Tall Sally, Burbage North. One of my first E1s and a lovely route. On the top wall, I could hear drums and thought to myself 'what antisocial git is playing music?'....then I realised it was my own heart beat in my ears!
E2 - The Sentinal, Burbage North. It was my first and quite an intense experience as the gear was far worse than expected and I reversed the crux 3 times as I thought the crux would be higher up!
E3 - Parallel Piped, Froggatt. Again an intense experience in cold damp conditions and my first.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
VDiff - Cuillin Ridge Traverse - not like another VDiff i've done! Unmatchable aspect in the UK.. Unique.. etc etc
Sev
HS - Ledgend. Because it was my first proper Swanage route and i've almost never been as scared as i was on that with the sea crashing in. The rock was hollow all the way up and i couldn't communicate with my belayer due to the wind. First multi-pitch and hanging belay to boot!!
VS - Valkyrie at Roaches. as the book says - archetypal must do!! It's like a mountain route on a grit crag. Awesome.
HVS - Got to be Spectre. I had a pee on a hanging belay. Watched a guide book fly by on the 2nd pitch. And had a very memorable lead of the Harding slot pitch. Felt very out there. Was my first HVS multipitch!
E1 - only done two but Cemetery Gates was amazing and probably doesn't need much raving about. good for me as was my first visit to the Cromlech and my first E1...
VDiff - Cuillin Ridge Traverse - not like another VDiff i've done! Unmatchable aspect in the UK.. Unique.. etc etc
Sev
HS - Ledgend. Because it was my first proper Swanage route and i've almost never been as scared as i was on that with the sea crashing in. The rock was hollow all the way up and i couldn't communicate with my belayer due to the wind. First multi-pitch and hanging belay to boot!!
VS - Valkyrie at Roaches. as the book says - archetypal must do!! It's like a mountain route on a grit crag. Awesome.
HVS - Got to be Spectre. I had a pee on a hanging belay. Watched a guide book fly by on the 2nd pitch. And had a very memorable lead of the Harding slot pitch. Felt very out there. Was my first HVS multipitch!
E1 - only done two but Cemetery Gates was amazing and probably doesn't need much raving about. good for me as was my first visit to the Cromlech and my first E1...
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Anyway back on topic:
Diff - Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis - the only "big" climbing I have done so far due to being a gritstone monkey
VDiff - Physiology at Stanage - climbed in a howling gale which added to the enjoyment really.
HVDiff - Has to be Flying Butress at Stanage as it was the second route I got dragged up (the first may have been Physiology)
Severe - Ants Crack at Yarncliffe - first lead
HS - difficult choice but I think I am going to go for rankers Crack at Froggatt if only for the tirade of abuse I directed in Fiends direction for pointing me at it.
VS - Wrinkled Wall at Bamford for the line and also just because it went so well at the end of a hard day when I had climbed like a muppet.
HVS - Bond Street at Millstone - jamming perfection summing up the true gritstone experience.
bluebrad
Anyway back on topic:
Diff - Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis - the only "big" climbing I have done so far due to being a gritstone monkey
VDiff - Physiology at Stanage - climbed in a howling gale which added to the enjoyment really.
HVDiff - Has to be Flying Butress at Stanage as it was the second route I got dragged up (the first may have been Physiology)
Severe - Ants Crack at Yarncliffe - first lead
HS - difficult choice but I think I am going to go for rankers Crack at Froggatt if only for the tirade of abuse I directed in Fiends direction for pointing me at it.
VS - Wrinkled Wall at Bamford for the line and also just because it went so well at the end of a hard day when I had climbed like a muppet.
HVS - Bond Street at Millstone - jamming perfection summing up the true gritstone experience.
bluebrad
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Russet Groove Bowden?
V Diff - Outside Edge Cwm Silyn
Sever - Craig Ddu Wall - Trem
VS - never liked this grade! Grindleys Senile Bull Heptonstall!
HVS Dream of W H maybe or Diagonal
E1 - err can't think - Shrike maybe
E2 Eroica ot The Bug at Toilladh
E3 The Moon
E4 Tumble
E5 - never did enough to have a favourite
Can't be bothered to think of Sport ones - collectively fun but individually forgettable.
Diff - Russet Groove Bowden?
V Diff - Outside Edge Cwm Silyn
Sever - Craig Ddu Wall - Trem
VS - never liked this grade! Grindleys Senile Bull Heptonstall!
HVS Dream of W H maybe or Diagonal
E1 - err can't think - Shrike maybe
E2 Eroica ot The Bug at Toilladh
E3 The Moon
E4 Tumble
E5 - never did enough to have a favourite
Can't be bothered to think of Sport ones - collectively fun but individually forgettable.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Advanced walk: danced along the brick curb outside the Nevisport bar in Fort William and slipped: a long weekend spent in the nice local Hospital with a suspected fractured skull was a result. If I'd been drunk it might be said to be a sobering experience like the man opposite me who got drunk and banged his head when he fell off a park bench.
Advanced walk: danced along the brick curb outside the Nevisport bar in Fort William and slipped: a long weekend spent in the nice local Hospital with a suspected fractured skull was a result. If I'd been drunk it might be said to be a sobering experience like the man opposite me who got drunk and banged his head when he fell off a park bench.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
E1 - The Plum. You never forget your first lead...in a borrowed Whillans harness of uncertain vintage, and with a borrowed rope too.
HVS - Kipling groove. Great route done at the end of a long, hot and very silly day that started on Esk Buttress.
VS - Eagle front. Best VS in the lakes and yes, I've done Eliminate A too.
HS - Main Wall. Deservedly classic rock.
S - Bow shaped slab, Pembroke.
VDiff - Hollybush crack, Stanage.
Diff - Quiver rib. Gorgeous.
Ask me tomorrow and I'd probably give you a different selection for everything bar Eagle Front.
T.
E1 - The Plum. You never forget your first lead...in a borrowed Whillans harness of uncertain vintage, and with a borrowed rope too.
HVS - Kipling groove. Great route done at the end of a long, hot and very silly day that started on Esk Buttress.
VS - Eagle front. Best VS in the lakes and yes, I've done Eliminate A too.
HS - Main Wall. Deservedly classic rock.
S - Bow shaped slab, Pembroke.
VDiff - Hollybush crack, Stanage.
Diff - Quiver rib. Gorgeous.
Ask me tomorrow and I'd probably give you a different selection for everything bar Eagle Front.
T.
In reply to Al Evans:
Al, do you genuinely, honestly, think downhill racer is E3? When you consider its graded for an onsight? I'd think it was very top end E4 to be honest. Another matter when youve heapointed it to death naturally. In which case what grade is long john's!?
Al, do you genuinely, honestly, think downhill racer is E3? When you consider its graded for an onsight? I'd think it was very top end E4 to be honest. Another matter when youve heapointed it to death naturally. In which case what grade is long john's!?
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod - Cneifion Arete - My first big mountain route, my first experience of moving together, and my first body belays! Lovely weather all the way up as well.
Diff - Knight's Climb, Cheddar - Last route of 2006, freezing cold in the gorge, and looking like rain, so we were fully kitted up in waterproof jackets and a large number of layers. Naturally once we got to the first belay the sun came out, and I then got totally stuck in Raven's chimney, much to the amusement of Steve (and, later on my whole family, and much later on, me).
VDiff - Colonel's Arete, The Dewerstone - Really nice climb in an amazing location, done on my first trip to the Dewerstone.
HVDiff - Wogs, Chudleigh - One of my first trad leads. Long (for the south-west), and required some thought. Seconded it sometime afterwards, and had to pause at the very same place, which means it really is a great route
Severe - Letterbox, Sennen - Great climb, on an amazing day. Flew through the first pitch, didn't put in much gear, and after a few attempts got the 4b move off the ledge. Took an age to set up the belay on the top though, in the end a couple of dodgy hexes had to be used. I really do need to get some big cams!
HS - One Foot in the Grave, Chudeleigh - Done on my first trad outing. Really enjoyed it, the last bit is great. Megan called me names because she smacked her funny bone on the last few moves, refused to fall off because she didn't think I could set up a belay properly, and so had to hang on for dear life whilst trying to get some feeling back into her arm to keep on climbing.
VS - Backing Up, Fairy Cave Quarry - My first "proper" slab climb, done after being spanked by all the routes at subliminal a couple of days beforehand. Discovered I could smear, and the meaning of padding, and screamed myself over the overlap. Amazing feeling of elation at the top.
HVS - Only seconded two, and neither of those was really exciting.
E1 - Only led two, so can't really comment.
E2 - Back Off, Fairy Cave Quarry - My first E2, done right after Backing Up. Really, really focused all the way up, and didn't worry about anything. Got to the top, clipped into the tree and giggled my head off for about five minutes. What a buzz. The day me and Meg decided that maybe we wern't shite climbers after all...
Josh.
Mod - Cneifion Arete - My first big mountain route, my first experience of moving together, and my first body belays! Lovely weather all the way up as well.
Diff - Knight's Climb, Cheddar - Last route of 2006, freezing cold in the gorge, and looking like rain, so we were fully kitted up in waterproof jackets and a large number of layers. Naturally once we got to the first belay the sun came out, and I then got totally stuck in Raven's chimney, much to the amusement of Steve (and, later on my whole family, and much later on, me).
VDiff - Colonel's Arete, The Dewerstone - Really nice climb in an amazing location, done on my first trip to the Dewerstone.
HVDiff - Wogs, Chudleigh - One of my first trad leads. Long (for the south-west), and required some thought. Seconded it sometime afterwards, and had to pause at the very same place, which means it really is a great route
Severe - Letterbox, Sennen - Great climb, on an amazing day. Flew through the first pitch, didn't put in much gear, and after a few attempts got the 4b move off the ledge. Took an age to set up the belay on the top though, in the end a couple of dodgy hexes had to be used. I really do need to get some big cams!
HS - One Foot in the Grave, Chudeleigh - Done on my first trad outing. Really enjoyed it, the last bit is great. Megan called me names because she smacked her funny bone on the last few moves, refused to fall off because she didn't think I could set up a belay properly, and so had to hang on for dear life whilst trying to get some feeling back into her arm to keep on climbing.
VS - Backing Up, Fairy Cave Quarry - My first "proper" slab climb, done after being spanked by all the routes at subliminal a couple of days beforehand. Discovered I could smear, and the meaning of padding, and screamed myself over the overlap. Amazing feeling of elation at the top.
HVS - Only seconded two, and neither of those was really exciting.
E1 - Only led two, so can't really comment.
E2 - Back Off, Fairy Cave Quarry - My first E2, done right after Backing Up. Really, really focused all the way up, and didn't worry about anything. Got to the top, clipped into the tree and giggled my head off for about five minutes. What a buzz. The day me and Meg decided that maybe we wern't shite climbers after all...
Josh.
In reply to JR:
Its very polished these days due to all the topropers pretending to be headpointers. I cant climb it and don't want to add to the polish. Long John's is easy E2 IMHO but I'm apparently an evil low grade climber guilty of sandbagging hard climbers on extremes. Alan's HVS first ascent 2 Pebble I think is also low grade E2 (there I go being inconsistent as well by putting in a soft touch?)
Its very polished these days due to all the topropers pretending to be headpointers. I cant climb it and don't want to add to the polish. Long John's is easy E2 IMHO but I'm apparently an evil low grade climber guilty of sandbagging hard climbers on extremes. Alan's HVS first ascent 2 Pebble I think is also low grade E2 (there I go being inconsistent as well by putting in a soft touch?)
In reply to Andy Hobson:
M - After thought Arete
D - Dunno, umm liked Crystal Ridge (Cairngorms)
VD - Commando Ridge for the position and the amazing first pitch
S - Eagle Ridge
HS - Grey Slab (Caringorms)
VS - Spartan Slab
HVS+ - Not lead enough to give a rounded opinion. Best HVS I've done is probably suspense at avon gorge.
M - After thought Arete
D - Dunno, umm liked Crystal Ridge (Cairngorms)
VD - Commando Ridge for the position and the amazing first pitch
S - Eagle Ridge
HS - Grey Slab (Caringorms)
VS - Spartan Slab
HVS+ - Not lead enough to give a rounded opinion. Best HVS I've done is probably suspense at avon gorge.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
i was thinking of posting something like this te other day...!
well, here we go...
mod- north buttress on buachaille- just a scamble really, but first big mountain experience, in typical glen coe dreich weather
diff- presidents slab, rylstone- 20m of perfect soaring gritstone with a fantastic view
v diff- eastby buttress- a bit of a turning point for me, after a wobbly spell, felt great, steep but juggy
severe- black hawk hell crack, stanage- steep, juggy, finished in a rush as a squall hit, with my last bit of gear popped out some distance below
hs- birds nest crack, almscliff- jamming fantastic..!
vs- napoleon, ilkley- first vs, great feeling to top out, though i was off just before, but nailed the last move as my strenght drained away...
thats as far as it goes for now...
gregor
i was thinking of posting something like this te other day...!
well, here we go...
mod- north buttress on buachaille- just a scamble really, but first big mountain experience, in typical glen coe dreich weather
diff- presidents slab, rylstone- 20m of perfect soaring gritstone with a fantastic view
v diff- eastby buttress- a bit of a turning point for me, after a wobbly spell, felt great, steep but juggy
severe- black hawk hell crack, stanage- steep, juggy, finished in a rush as a squall hit, with my last bit of gear popped out some distance below
hs- birds nest crack, almscliff- jamming fantastic..!
vs- napoleon, ilkley- first vs, great feeling to top out, though i was off just before, but nailed the last move as my strenght drained away...
thats as far as it goes for now...
gregor
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod - Cneifon Arete - My first outdoor climbing experience and a great day out.
Diff - Inverted Staircase at The Roaches upper tier. Interesting climbing up the first pitch then a squirm through a chimney for the second 8-)
Vdiff - can't think of one...
Severe - Allen's Slab at Froggatt. Easy climbing but felt very tenuous as my second severe lead. I hadn't realised when I set out that there'd be a run-out with swing potential and both me and my second were almost complete novices. It was definitely memorable!
HS - Razor Edge, a great micro-route on Chapel-le-Dale middle tier. Seen as you approach from the right it just looks like an arete but as you top out it becomes clear that it's actually a big detached flake from the crag! Lovely sequency climbing up all 6m of it.
VS - I'm torn between Great Harry at Lawrencefield, which is just a perfect corner crack, and Seamstress, because it was my first route on slate and I was hooked from the start.
HVS - Tody's Wall, mostly because it was one of my first wishlist routes. I'd watched someone flail on it when I was a complete newbie and thought it looked really hard but really fun. Racking up underneath it was quite intimidating as I knew it was a route I'd be gutted not to onsight but once I got onto the block I relaxed and started enjoying myself. The crux is memorable, the slab is easy and the top jamming crack is so inviting - by the time I topped out I had the biggest grin on my face!
E0 and upwards - not enough experience to comment
Mod - Cneifon Arete - My first outdoor climbing experience and a great day out.
Diff - Inverted Staircase at The Roaches upper tier. Interesting climbing up the first pitch then a squirm through a chimney for the second 8-)
Vdiff - can't think of one...
Severe - Allen's Slab at Froggatt. Easy climbing but felt very tenuous as my second severe lead. I hadn't realised when I set out that there'd be a run-out with swing potential and both me and my second were almost complete novices. It was definitely memorable!
HS - Razor Edge, a great micro-route on Chapel-le-Dale middle tier. Seen as you approach from the right it just looks like an arete but as you top out it becomes clear that it's actually a big detached flake from the crag! Lovely sequency climbing up all 6m of it.
VS - I'm torn between Great Harry at Lawrencefield, which is just a perfect corner crack, and Seamstress, because it was my first route on slate and I was hooked from the start.
HVS - Tody's Wall, mostly because it was one of my first wishlist routes. I'd watched someone flail on it when I was a complete newbie and thought it looked really hard but really fun. Racking up underneath it was quite intimidating as I knew it was a route I'd be gutted not to onsight but once I got onto the block I relaxed and started enjoying myself. The crux is memorable, the slab is easy and the top jamming crack is so inviting - by the time I topped out I had the biggest grin on my face!
E0 and upwards - not enough experience to comment
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff Symphony crack Rhoscolyn its the best...
V Diff lots
Severe Main Wall Cyn Las, soloed it and took one of my fave photos afterwards.
VS Any on Castll Helen, for atmosphere
HVS Dream of White Horses, I keep going back for more cant get enough, and good company
E1 Cenetoph corner - a classic, partner
E2 Jelly Roll, company and the views
E3 Wendigo, Red walls - route partner, 2nd route on red walls
E4 Great Wall Cloggy because it is Great
that so far.... more adventures to come Im sure...
Diff Symphony crack Rhoscolyn its the best...
V Diff lots
Severe Main Wall Cyn Las, soloed it and took one of my fave photos afterwards.
VS Any on Castll Helen, for atmosphere
HVS Dream of White Horses, I keep going back for more cant get enough, and good company
E1 Cenetoph corner - a classic, partner
E2 Jelly Roll, company and the views
E3 Wendigo, Red walls - route partner, 2nd route on red walls
E4 Great Wall Cloggy because it is Great
that so far.... more adventures to come Im sure...
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - That climb up from Napes needle Lake District
VD - Little chamonix, Borrowdale. I just managed to get my son up it
S - Troutdale Pinnacle Borrowdale
HS The Jewel - Catacombe gully - Gower (its only 15m but its brilliant)
VS Blue sky, Saddle head, Pembroke
HVS Sinecure - (graded E1 but its HVS) Carreg y barcud, Pembroke
E1 - Seth, Fall bay, Gower
E2 - Left wall
E3 .... something in my dreams
Diff - That climb up from Napes needle Lake District
VD - Little chamonix, Borrowdale. I just managed to get my son up it
S - Troutdale Pinnacle Borrowdale
HS The Jewel - Catacombe gully - Gower (its only 15m but its brilliant)
VS Blue sky, Saddle head, Pembroke
HVS Sinecure - (graded E1 but its HVS) Carreg y barcud, Pembroke
E1 - Seth, Fall bay, Gower
E2 - Left wall
E3 .... something in my dreams
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod - Dubhs Ridge, Skye. Beautiful scenery, fantastic rock and almost 1000m long. I doubt it can be beaten in Britain. Particularly memorable since I got lost in the mist at the top and ended up having a 15 hour day!
Diff - Toss up between Corvus (in big boots in the rain of course) and Rake End Chimney. Probably the latter because of the shock I got when I came face to face with a sheep skull pulling round one of the chockstones.
VD - Either Arrow Route on Sron na Ciche, or Left Edge on Carnedd y Filiast. Arrow Route because it's a beautiful route and one of the first I did on Skye. The run-outs are quite scary for a VDiff! We did Left Edge in T-shirts in January when everywhere else was freezing cold. It started snowing when we got to the top!
HVD/MS - Oxford and Cambridge Direct Route, Grey Crag. Lovely rough rock and good moves in nice surroundings. The walk in is a bit of a pain though!
S - Toss up between Raeburn's Arete on the Ben (another great route on fantastic rock) and Monolith Crack on the Gribin Facet. I thought that once I'd squeezed into the cliff that there was no chance of getting out if I couldn't get up the chimney!
HS - Has to be Right Angle for the atmosphere! And I climbed it with some great people.
VS - Either the Devil's Chimney on Lundy because it gets to the top of a sea-stack, or the File because the moves are fantastic and it had been on my tick-list for ages!
HVS - not many to choose from, but the Kinkyboots/Midnight Cowboy combination at Baggy was pretty cool. Great slab climbing right at my leading limit made it quite memorable.
Interesting to note that only one of the contenders is on grit, despite the fact that over half the routes I've climbed have been on grit!
Mod - Dubhs Ridge, Skye. Beautiful scenery, fantastic rock and almost 1000m long. I doubt it can be beaten in Britain. Particularly memorable since I got lost in the mist at the top and ended up having a 15 hour day!
Diff - Toss up between Corvus (in big boots in the rain of course) and Rake End Chimney. Probably the latter because of the shock I got when I came face to face with a sheep skull pulling round one of the chockstones.
VD - Either Arrow Route on Sron na Ciche, or Left Edge on Carnedd y Filiast. Arrow Route because it's a beautiful route and one of the first I did on Skye. The run-outs are quite scary for a VDiff! We did Left Edge in T-shirts in January when everywhere else was freezing cold. It started snowing when we got to the top!
HVD/MS - Oxford and Cambridge Direct Route, Grey Crag. Lovely rough rock and good moves in nice surroundings. The walk in is a bit of a pain though!
S - Toss up between Raeburn's Arete on the Ben (another great route on fantastic rock) and Monolith Crack on the Gribin Facet. I thought that once I'd squeezed into the cliff that there was no chance of getting out if I couldn't get up the chimney!
HS - Has to be Right Angle for the atmosphere! And I climbed it with some great people.
VS - Either the Devil's Chimney on Lundy because it gets to the top of a sea-stack, or the File because the moves are fantastic and it had been on my tick-list for ages!
HVS - not many to choose from, but the Kinkyboots/Midnight Cowboy combination at Baggy was pretty cool. Great slab climbing right at my leading limit made it quite memorable.
Interesting to note that only one of the contenders is on grit, despite the fact that over half the routes I've climbed have been on grit!
In reply to Offwidth:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=69716
> Brilliant! By the way where is Fiends Folly?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=69716
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Nice idea!
Mod: The Dubhs Ridge. One of the longest routes in Britain. It's just amazing to be wandering up this sea of Gabbro picking your line at will.
Diff: Answer Crack at Dovestones Edge. Did it with my then girlfriend now wife, just good move after good move (I think I was leading E5 at the time which shows just how quality is irrespective of grade)
VDiff: Bowfell Buttress. Soloed it on my birthday many years ago after spending most of the day on nearby Flat Crags.
Severe: Dental Slab at Rylstone. Perhaps the best severe on gritstone.
Hard Severe: Ardverikie Wall. Did it on the way out to Skye the same weekend we did The Dubhs Ridge. Met one of my old climbing partners from the Lakes at the foot of the route - hadn't seen him for about ten years.
VS: Kirkus' Route, Cwm Silyn. Delightful slab climbing - you think that the route should be at least E1 but the holds are just so good.
HVS: Golden Slipper. Just gorgeous moves on perfect bubbly rock high on Pavey Ark what more could you want?
E1: Nimrod, Dow Crag. One of my earliest E1 leads. Done on a March day when it was warm enough to wear shorts! Never been as warm again.
E2: Saxon, Scafell. A perfect intricate line linking a whole series of interesting features with a finale up an arete hanging above the void above Hollowstones.
E3: Spock, Sron na Ciche. Simply brilliant climbing up an arete.
E4: Resurrection, Dinas Cromlech. My first E4 onsight. Done at the end of a week down in N. Wales
E5: Stairway to Heaven, Blaven. A very early ascent, the only time my mate reckoned he saw me scared when seconding! We did Edgehog in Glen Nevis the same day. Was interesting getting back to the Lakes as the car was running out of juice and neither of us had credit cards at the time!
The quality of these is such that I'd go back and do any of them again (ability notwithstanding). There are lots of others at most of the grades that could make it into my list.
boB
Nice idea!
Mod: The Dubhs Ridge. One of the longest routes in Britain. It's just amazing to be wandering up this sea of Gabbro picking your line at will.
Diff: Answer Crack at Dovestones Edge. Did it with my then girlfriend now wife, just good move after good move (I think I was leading E5 at the time which shows just how quality is irrespective of grade)
VDiff: Bowfell Buttress. Soloed it on my birthday many years ago after spending most of the day on nearby Flat Crags.
Severe: Dental Slab at Rylstone. Perhaps the best severe on gritstone.
Hard Severe: Ardverikie Wall. Did it on the way out to Skye the same weekend we did The Dubhs Ridge. Met one of my old climbing partners from the Lakes at the foot of the route - hadn't seen him for about ten years.
VS: Kirkus' Route, Cwm Silyn. Delightful slab climbing - you think that the route should be at least E1 but the holds are just so good.
HVS: Golden Slipper. Just gorgeous moves on perfect bubbly rock high on Pavey Ark what more could you want?
E1: Nimrod, Dow Crag. One of my earliest E1 leads. Done on a March day when it was warm enough to wear shorts! Never been as warm again.
E2: Saxon, Scafell. A perfect intricate line linking a whole series of interesting features with a finale up an arete hanging above the void above Hollowstones.
E3: Spock, Sron na Ciche. Simply brilliant climbing up an arete.
E4: Resurrection, Dinas Cromlech. My first E4 onsight. Done at the end of a week down in N. Wales
E5: Stairway to Heaven, Blaven. A very early ascent, the only time my mate reckoned he saw me scared when seconding! We did Edgehog in Glen Nevis the same day. Was interesting getting back to the Lakes as the car was running out of juice and neither of us had credit cards at the time!
The quality of these is such that I'd go back and do any of them again (ability notwithstanding). There are lots of others at most of the grades that could make it into my list.
boB
In reply to Bob:
This will be a short list for me.
Mod - Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mòr
Diff - Clach Glas-Blaven Traverse
V Diff - Agag's Groove, Buachaille Etive Mòr
Severe - Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar
VS - The Pobble, Souter Head (never done a mountain VS!)
This will be a short list for me.
Mod - Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mòr
Diff - Clach Glas-Blaven Traverse
V Diff - Agag's Groove, Buachaille Etive Mòr
Severe - Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar
VS - The Pobble, Souter Head (never done a mountain VS!)
In reply to Al Evans: Sorry, but why are they obvious?
D - Alisons Rib, Great setting.
HS - Main wall - Caught it completely dry on a fantastic day in April, early with sun on it.
HVS -The Mincer; the hardest climb ive ever done, eventual success was followed by two hours of attempting to free stuck ropes, so wuite a memeroble one.
E2 - Thin Red Line If it is one and not E1 it was my first extreme and was climbed on the frustration of having to do coursework for a week solid.
E1 - The Palestinians - Underated climb with a lovely line, long with good moves, great day.
D - Alisons Rib, Great setting.
HS - Main wall - Caught it completely dry on a fantastic day in April, early with sun on it.
HVS -The Mincer; the hardest climb ive ever done, eventual success was followed by two hours of attempting to free stuck ropes, so wuite a memeroble one.
E2 - Thin Red Line If it is one and not E1 it was my first extreme and was climbed on the frustration of having to do coursework for a week solid.
E1 - The Palestinians - Underated climb with a lovely line, long with good moves, great day.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod - Pinicle Ridge St Sunday Crag. Done on the longest day with my Dad one year.
Diff - Corvus. My first ever real route ages 11. Brilliant -was amazed by my Dad's mate who had soloed it!
V Diff - Amphtheatre Butteress. A brilliant route, done on a hot sunny day. Awsome finishing moves.
Severe - Troutdale Pinnicle. Did it again to today and that top move is still as mind blowing as the first time.
HS - Tricky. The only one that sticks in my memory as excellent is Sinister Grooves at Buckstone How.
VS - Eliminate A. Done a few weeks ago on the day of my last exam, brilliant. Diosease at Chair ladder and Barbican at Castle Rock were also pretty stunning.
HVS - Kippling Groove - Cos its ruddy'ard. Done on a hot summers evening on the last day of term. Magic. Concreate Chimney was pretty awsome too. So was finale at Shephards and Zigzag at sennen, mainly because I was so pumped at the top and extactic that I hadn't fallen off.
E1 - A toss up betwen the Philistine and the Red Edge, both offer superb climbing though.
E2 - Redex. Another E2 that lived up to more than its exspectation and my first 5c onsite.
E3 - I'll tell you at the end of the summer!
Mod - Pinicle Ridge St Sunday Crag. Done on the longest day with my Dad one year.
Diff - Corvus. My first ever real route ages 11. Brilliant -was amazed by my Dad's mate who had soloed it!
V Diff - Amphtheatre Butteress. A brilliant route, done on a hot sunny day. Awsome finishing moves.
Severe - Troutdale Pinnicle. Did it again to today and that top move is still as mind blowing as the first time.
HS - Tricky. The only one that sticks in my memory as excellent is Sinister Grooves at Buckstone How.
VS - Eliminate A. Done a few weeks ago on the day of my last exam, brilliant. Diosease at Chair ladder and Barbican at Castle Rock were also pretty stunning.
HVS - Kippling Groove - Cos its ruddy'ard. Done on a hot summers evening on the last day of term. Magic. Concreate Chimney was pretty awsome too. So was finale at Shephards and Zigzag at sennen, mainly because I was so pumped at the top and extactic that I hadn't fallen off.
E1 - A toss up betwen the Philistine and the Red Edge, both offer superb climbing though.
E2 - Redex. Another E2 that lived up to more than its exspectation and my first 5c onsite.
E3 - I'll tell you at the end of the summer!
In reply to Andy Hobson:
No mention yet of Tophet Wall?
Mod - I guess Pinnacle Ridge St Sunday Crag
Diff - President's Slab, Rhylestone (need at leat one Grit Route)
V Diff - Bowfell Buttress
S - The Sphinx (East) Traverse (to give N Yorks a mention)
HS - Tophet Wall!!! (no mention of this yet on this thread!?)
MVS - Ardus
VS - Probably Wilfred Prickles at Kyloe Out
HVS - Not many to my name - so have to say Great North Road
E2 - Glass Slipper - but just the 5b bit as it was a second
So much to do...
No mention yet of Tophet Wall?
Mod - I guess Pinnacle Ridge St Sunday Crag
Diff - President's Slab, Rhylestone (need at leat one Grit Route)
V Diff - Bowfell Buttress
S - The Sphinx (East) Traverse (to give N Yorks a mention)
HS - Tophet Wall!!! (no mention of this yet on this thread!?)
MVS - Ardus
VS - Probably Wilfred Prickles at Kyloe Out
HVS - Not many to my name - so have to say Great North Road
E2 - Glass Slipper - but just the 5b bit as it was a second
So much to do...
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Commando ridge
VDiff - Squareface
Severe - Crypt route
HS - Snake Dike
VS - Dream of White Horses
HVS - La demande
E1 - Bishops Rib
E2 - Sacre Coeur
E3 - Chalkstorm (as the only one I've led)
J
Diff - Commando ridge
VDiff - Squareface
Severe - Crypt route
HS - Snake Dike
VS - Dream of White Horses
HVS - La demande
E1 - Bishops Rib
E2 - Sacre Coeur
E3 - Chalkstorm (as the only one I've led)
J
In reply to Andy Hobson:
V.diff: Agags Groove,
Severe: Talisman
VS: Anvil Chorus
HVS: Saxon
E1: Yo Yo
E2: Shibbolith
E3: The Moon
E$: Great Wall
V.diff: Agags Groove,
Severe: Talisman
VS: Anvil Chorus
HVS: Saxon
E1: Yo Yo
E2: Shibbolith
E3: The Moon
E$: Great Wall
In reply to Andy Hobson:
V.diff: Agags Groove,
Severe: Talisman
VS: Anvil Chorus
HVS: Saxon
E1: Yo Yo
E2: Shibbolith
E3: The Moon
E4: Great Wall
V.diff: Agags Groove,
Severe: Talisman
VS: Anvil Chorus
HVS: Saxon
E1: Yo Yo
E2: Shibbolith
E3: The Moon
E4: Great Wall
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod - The Dubh Slabs. Awesome climbing/scrambling, on awesome rock in an awesome situation. And it just goes on and on forever...
Diff - Lockwoods Chimney. Just the best rainy day expedition ever.
VDiff - Bosigran Ridge. A mountain route by the sea. And the first pitch is brilliant.
Severe - Flying Dutchman. I'm not sure why, I just really enjoyed this route.
HS - Tophet Wall. Did it on a beautiful day this Easter with nobody else in sight for some reason. I had been afraid of it being hard and me bottling it, but actually it was just great.
VS - Original Route on The Old Man Of Stoer. A great adventure, with some brilliant climbing along the way.
HVS - Avalanche Wall. Only on second, but I thought I was going to die a pumpy death at the top, but my belayer refused to take any more slack in as she insisted I wasn't trying hard enough. That gave me the incentive I needed to get to the top, where I lay in a heap for about half an hour. One I enjoy a lot more in retrospect than I did at the time I guess.
E1 - Moyer's Buttress. Again, only on second mind, but it was the first 5b move I didn't fall off. And then the top slab was just interesting enough...
I've only fallen off things harder than that.
I suspect this list would look quite different if you asked me tomorrow.
Mod - The Dubh Slabs. Awesome climbing/scrambling, on awesome rock in an awesome situation. And it just goes on and on forever...
Diff - Lockwoods Chimney. Just the best rainy day expedition ever.
VDiff - Bosigran Ridge. A mountain route by the sea. And the first pitch is brilliant.
Severe - Flying Dutchman. I'm not sure why, I just really enjoyed this route.
HS - Tophet Wall. Did it on a beautiful day this Easter with nobody else in sight for some reason. I had been afraid of it being hard and me bottling it, but actually it was just great.
VS - Original Route on The Old Man Of Stoer. A great adventure, with some brilliant climbing along the way.
HVS - Avalanche Wall. Only on second, but I thought I was going to die a pumpy death at the top, but my belayer refused to take any more slack in as she insisted I wasn't trying hard enough. That gave me the incentive I needed to get to the top, where I lay in a heap for about half an hour. One I enjoy a lot more in retrospect than I did at the time I guess.
E1 - Moyer's Buttress. Again, only on second mind, but it was the first 5b move I didn't fall off. And then the top slab was just interesting enough...
I've only fallen off things harder than that.
I suspect this list would look quite different if you asked me tomorrow.
In reply to chris wyatt: Seth is well protected, but has a bloody hard crux!
These are ones I've done and enjoyed, lots on the hitlist that I'm sure will be better.
Mod - Cneifion arete. Absolutely cracking.
Diff - Everything that was, and was any good is now v diff!
VD/HVD - Grooved Arete or anything East face of Tryfan
S - Crackstone Rib/Troutdale Pinnacle
HS - Tennis Shoe. Heard a lot about Main Wall though.
VS - Osiris on Gower is nationally underrated/unknown. Loads of other lovely VS's about though.
HVS - Something hard and bloomin awkward at Millstone
These are ones I've done and enjoyed, lots on the hitlist that I'm sure will be better.
Mod - Cneifion arete. Absolutely cracking.
Diff - Everything that was, and was any good is now v diff!
VD/HVD - Grooved Arete or anything East face of Tryfan
S - Crackstone Rib/Troutdale Pinnacle
HS - Tennis Shoe. Heard a lot about Main Wall though.
VS - Osiris on Gower is nationally underrated/unknown. Loads of other lovely VS's about though.
HVS - Something hard and bloomin awkward at Millstone
In reply to Gareth James:
VD-Milestone Butress Direct-My first Multipitch
HVD-Grooved Arete-Tryfan East Face-really nice climbing, good positions, lovely day, not a care in the world.
S-Black and Tans-The Roaches-The second pitch was so bold as I was only leading severe at the time but ecellent.
HS-Tennis Shoe is the best I've done, lovely sunny day, fantastic position and great climbing but the best HS lead is probably green gut at Froggatt.
VS-Without a doubt Blue Sky at Saddle Head. Just Brilliant.
VD-Milestone Butress Direct-My first Multipitch
HVD-Grooved Arete-Tryfan East Face-really nice climbing, good positions, lovely day, not a care in the world.
S-Black and Tans-The Roaches-The second pitch was so bold as I was only leading severe at the time but ecellent.
HS-Tennis Shoe is the best I've done, lovely sunny day, fantastic position and great climbing but the best HS lead is probably green gut at Froggatt.
VS-Without a doubt Blue Sky at Saddle Head. Just Brilliant.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - The route we did on Idwal Slabs. Crossed from Hope to The Ordinary Route after 1st pitch.
Severe - Maud's Garden, The Roaches
Hard Severe - Shark's Fin, Ramshaw
Very Severe - Seamstress
Hard Very Severe - Mentil Lentils, Vivian
E1 - Looning The Tube, Australia
E2 - Gadaffi Duck, Australia or Psychotherapy, Vivian
E3 - Goose Creature, Australia
E4 - Slug Club Special, Serengeti (Top Rope)
E5 - The Knife, Pex Hill (Top Rope)
E6 - Black Magic, Pex Hill (Top Rope)
Diff - The route we did on Idwal Slabs. Crossed from Hope to The Ordinary Route after 1st pitch.
Severe - Maud's Garden, The Roaches
Hard Severe - Shark's Fin, Ramshaw
Very Severe - Seamstress
Hard Very Severe - Mentil Lentils, Vivian
E1 - Looning The Tube, Australia
E2 - Gadaffi Duck, Australia or Psychotherapy, Vivian
E3 - Goose Creature, Australia
E4 - Slug Club Special, Serengeti (Top Rope)
E5 - The Knife, Pex Hill (Top Rope)
E6 - Black Magic, Pex Hill (Top Rope)
In reply to Will Hunt: waits for someone to say top roping dont count.
for me
VS-flying buttress direct os solo(very scary)
HVS-blizzard ridge at rivelin(exposed)
E1-moyers buttress at gardoms(scary)or the toy os solo(nearly bottled it)
E2-autumn wall at riveling(think thats the E2 but may be the E4)
E3-long john slab at frogatt(first climb over E1(solo)
E4-the brush off at rivelin(brilliant) first E4 and os solo
E5-only done the knock and think thats now E4
E6-life assurence at burbage(solo cos im silly)only E6 ive done
top ropes
E7-braille traille at burbage-what a route
E8-end of the affair at curbar and shine on at stanage both os(top rope)
for me
VS-flying buttress direct os solo(very scary)
HVS-blizzard ridge at rivelin(exposed)
E1-moyers buttress at gardoms(scary)or the toy os solo(nearly bottled it)
E2-autumn wall at riveling(think thats the E2 but may be the E4)
E3-long john slab at frogatt(first climb over E1(solo)
E4-the brush off at rivelin(brilliant) first E4 and os solo
E5-only done the knock and think thats now E4
E6-life assurence at burbage(solo cos im silly)only E6 ive done
top ropes
E7-braille traille at burbage-what a route
E8-end of the affair at curbar and shine on at stanage both os(top rope)
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod – Dubhs Ridge Constantly interesting and varied including an exciting abseil.
Diff – C Ordinary, Dow Crag. Really pleasant all weather climb.
V.Diff – Fluted Columns, Almscliff. Historic route that has stood the test of time.
Mild Severe – Troutdale Pinnacle. Varied and photogenic.
Severe – Tophet Wall, Great Gable. Did it 40 years ago but still memorable!
Hard Severe – Parsons Chimney, Almscliff. Another historic grit classic.
Mild VS – Inverted V, Stanage. Got to have one from the Peak I suppose.
VS - F Route, Gimmer . Brilliant layback finish in a great position.
HVS - Arcturus/Golden Slipper combination. My first big hard route in the Lakes. (Arcturus had quite a reputation in those days.)
E1 - Dream of White Horses, Gogarth, Inspirational line, delightful moves.
E2 - The Strand – Best single pitch 5b in Britain?
E3 - Wall of Horrors, Almscliff. A tough test at this grade.
E4 - Fallen Angel, Pavey Ark. A total body pump but a compelling line.
E5 - Central Wall, Blue Scar. A great line up a superb limestone wall.
Sport Routes – Hard to think of anything memorable below 6a+: Could fill every other grade with Kalymnos classics but will try to be more wide ranging.
F6a+ - Wheels on Fire, Robin Proctor’s Scar. Outstanding quality in classic Yorkshire limestone landscape.
F6b - Hari Kiri, Kalymnos. Improbable line and grade amid dramatic scenery.
F6b+ - El Sol, Gandia. Compelling red wall that can’t be missed.
F6c - Directissima, Kilnsey, Brilliant line despite the polish.
F6c+ - Kashba, Sella. Steep bridging – keep believing and positive holds keep turning up.
F7a - Chnosi Family, Panorama Kalymnos. Every move is brilliant.
F7a+ - Clive’s Redoubt, Toix Sea Cliffs, big, big wall pitch with 3 superb cruxes
F7b - Gladiator, Kalymnos. Technical steep and varied. Took me lots of attempts.
F7b+ - Pursuit of Excellence, Trow Gill. Only one I’ve done, if I accept Rockfax grading!
Mod – Dubhs Ridge Constantly interesting and varied including an exciting abseil.
Diff – C Ordinary, Dow Crag. Really pleasant all weather climb.
V.Diff – Fluted Columns, Almscliff. Historic route that has stood the test of time.
Mild Severe – Troutdale Pinnacle. Varied and photogenic.
Severe – Tophet Wall, Great Gable. Did it 40 years ago but still memorable!
Hard Severe – Parsons Chimney, Almscliff. Another historic grit classic.
Mild VS – Inverted V, Stanage. Got to have one from the Peak I suppose.
VS - F Route, Gimmer . Brilliant layback finish in a great position.
HVS - Arcturus/Golden Slipper combination. My first big hard route in the Lakes. (Arcturus had quite a reputation in those days.)
E1 - Dream of White Horses, Gogarth, Inspirational line, delightful moves.
E2 - The Strand – Best single pitch 5b in Britain?
E3 - Wall of Horrors, Almscliff. A tough test at this grade.
E4 - Fallen Angel, Pavey Ark. A total body pump but a compelling line.
E5 - Central Wall, Blue Scar. A great line up a superb limestone wall.
Sport Routes – Hard to think of anything memorable below 6a+: Could fill every other grade with Kalymnos classics but will try to be more wide ranging.
F6a+ - Wheels on Fire, Robin Proctor’s Scar. Outstanding quality in classic Yorkshire limestone landscape.
F6b - Hari Kiri, Kalymnos. Improbable line and grade amid dramatic scenery.
F6b+ - El Sol, Gandia. Compelling red wall that can’t be missed.
F6c - Directissima, Kilnsey, Brilliant line despite the polish.
F6c+ - Kashba, Sella. Steep bridging – keep believing and positive holds keep turning up.
F7a - Chnosi Family, Panorama Kalymnos. Every move is brilliant.
F7a+ - Clive’s Redoubt, Toix Sea Cliffs, big, big wall pitch with 3 superb cruxes
F7b - Gladiator, Kalymnos. Technical steep and varied. Took me lots of attempts.
F7b+ - Pursuit of Excellence, Trow Gill. Only one I’ve done, if I accept Rockfax grading!
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Surprisingly hard this. It's always dead easy to pick two or three great ones but trying to narrow to one is often tricky.
Diff: Black Slab, Bosi
VDiff: Heaven Crack, Stanage
HS: Doorpost, Bosi - I do this almost every time I'm there. The position is just fantastic.
VS: Hargreaves original, Stanage - may not be the best but my favourite.
HVS:
E1: Three pebble slab. Soloed it on-sight and my fear on the easy top slab is very memorable indeed.
E2: Dark Power, Lundy
E3: The Moritorium (actually 5.11b but it's close enough)
E4: Diamond Life, Lundy
E5: Flashdance - my first at the grade after trying and failing on several others.
Surprisingly hard this. It's always dead easy to pick two or three great ones but trying to narrow to one is often tricky.
Diff: Black Slab, Bosi
VDiff: Heaven Crack, Stanage
HS: Doorpost, Bosi - I do this almost every time I'm there. The position is just fantastic.
VS: Hargreaves original, Stanage - may not be the best but my favourite.
HVS:
E1: Three pebble slab. Soloed it on-sight and my fear on the easy top slab is very memorable indeed.
E2: Dark Power, Lundy
E3: The Moritorium (actually 5.11b but it's close enough)
E4: Diamond Life, Lundy
E5: Flashdance - my first at the grade after trying and failing on several others.
In reply to Dave Musgrove: Dream of White Hourse is NEVER EVER EVER E1. It owuld be VS if it wasn't above the sea, maybe not even that.
In reply to Andy Hobson: This was really difficult. I had to limit the number of routes from High Tor and Bosigran.
VS Little Brown Jug Bosigran Cornwall
Sunny holiday fun!
HVS Joint Effort Staden Quarry Peak District
First HVS lead
E1 Debauchery High Tor Peak district
Soft touch E1, but feels like space walking. Terrific expedition.
E2 Regent Street Millstone Peak district
One of the best routes of its kind in the country
E3 The Ghost Bosigran Cornwall
Seconded it a long time before I built myself up to lead it. really pleased.
E4 Pillar Direct High Tor
Another route I seconded early on in my climbing. Thought at the time I'd never lead anything like that. Led it a few years ago, and was a really excellent experience.
E5 London Wall Millstone Peak District
This is THE grit route. Had seconded it to death before leading it. I really don't care...tip top.
F7b+ Indecent Exposure Raven Tor (used to be E6 I think) Led this as old skool, and more recently as a sport route. Any route you have to climb a tree and get yourself established is excellent. Sustained but a bit of a soft touch at the grade.
VS Little Brown Jug Bosigran Cornwall
Sunny holiday fun!
HVS Joint Effort Staden Quarry Peak District
First HVS lead
E1 Debauchery High Tor Peak district
Soft touch E1, but feels like space walking. Terrific expedition.
E2 Regent Street Millstone Peak district
One of the best routes of its kind in the country
E3 The Ghost Bosigran Cornwall
Seconded it a long time before I built myself up to lead it. really pleased.
E4 Pillar Direct High Tor
Another route I seconded early on in my climbing. Thought at the time I'd never lead anything like that. Led it a few years ago, and was a really excellent experience.
E5 London Wall Millstone Peak District
This is THE grit route. Had seconded it to death before leading it. I really don't care...tip top.
F7b+ Indecent Exposure Raven Tor (used to be E6 I think) Led this as old skool, and more recently as a sport route. Any route you have to climb a tree and get yourself established is excellent. Sustained but a bit of a soft touch at the grade.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
V Diff Terrier's Tooth One of the few that I remember from this grade
Severe Black Hawk Hell Crack Nice steep severe
VS Engineer's Slabs A good steep multi pitch
HVS Heart of Darkness / New Morning Probably worth E1, but a fantastic route at the grade
E1 The Grooves, Cyrn Las Another steep sustained multi pitch
E2 The Strand No hard moves but as sustained as they come
E3 The Moon What a position
V Diff Terrier's Tooth One of the few that I remember from this grade
Severe Black Hawk Hell Crack Nice steep severe
VS Engineer's Slabs A good steep multi pitch
HVS Heart of Darkness / New Morning Probably worth E1, but a fantastic route at the grade
E1 The Grooves, Cyrn Las Another steep sustained multi pitch
E2 The Strand No hard moves but as sustained as they come
E3 The Moon What a position
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
Your right Tom, I've just chechecked my guide. I must have been thinking back to Drummond's origanal grade of XS and Crew's first guide which graded it extreme. In that case I'll substitute Carnage Left Hand at Malham.
Dave
Your right Tom, I've just chechecked my guide. I must have been thinking back to Drummond's origanal grade of XS and Crew's first guide which graded it extreme. In that case I'll substitute Carnage Left Hand at Malham.
Dave
In reply to Andy Hobson:
VDiff - The Leaf, Wallowbarrow.
S - Pandora, Poll Dubh.
HS - Cracked Wall, Whitestone; & Stonestar Groove, Stonestar Crag.
VS - Jean Jeanie, Trowbarrow; Eliminate A, Dow Crag & Walthwaite Crack, Raven Crag (Walthwaite).
HVS - Kick Off, Tilberthwaite Quarry.
E1 - T.B.C.
E2 - Bunny Belay, Tilberthwaite Quarry & Blue Oyster Cult, Dalt Quarry (though I think this one qualifies as a sports climb).
VDiff - The Leaf, Wallowbarrow.
S - Pandora, Poll Dubh.
HS - Cracked Wall, Whitestone; & Stonestar Groove, Stonestar Crag.
VS - Jean Jeanie, Trowbarrow; Eliminate A, Dow Crag & Walthwaite Crack, Raven Crag (Walthwaite).
HVS - Kick Off, Tilberthwaite Quarry.
E1 - T.B.C.
E2 - Bunny Belay, Tilberthwaite Quarry & Blue Oyster Cult, Dalt Quarry (though I think this one qualifies as a sports climb).
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
HVS - Overhanging Groove, Almscliff. Proper climbing. Proper jug hoiking at the top. Life affirming.
E1-E3 - actually struggling to recall any really really outstanding ones, or that meant a lot at the time. I guess I could pick Left Wall (Cromlech), Gillian (Sennen) or Longships Wall (Lands End) or The Harp (Shelterstone). Hmm...
E4 - The Screamer, Reiff. Honest tough wall climbing in the best location on earth.
E5 - Entropy's Jaw, Roaches. For the movement and the line.
E6 - Master of Reality, Hen Cloud. Awesome climbing, superb.
E7 - I was going to pick Buddha (Creag an Dubh Loch), but I'm now going for a personal one: Driven Bow, Hen Cloud. A long term ambition, on an insignificant buttress, with a good mate, and a very happy feeling afterwards.
HVS - Overhanging Groove, Almscliff. Proper climbing. Proper jug hoiking at the top. Life affirming.
E1-E3 - actually struggling to recall any really really outstanding ones, or that meant a lot at the time. I guess I could pick Left Wall (Cromlech), Gillian (Sennen) or Longships Wall (Lands End) or The Harp (Shelterstone). Hmm...
E4 - The Screamer, Reiff. Honest tough wall climbing in the best location on earth.
E5 - Entropy's Jaw, Roaches. For the movement and the line.
E6 - Master of Reality, Hen Cloud. Awesome climbing, superb.
E7 - I was going to pick Buddha (Creag an Dubh Loch), but I'm now going for a personal one: Driven Bow, Hen Cloud. A long term ambition, on an insignificant buttress, with a good mate, and a very happy feeling afterwards.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Sub Ceneiffon Arete (might have mixed up the name?) - It's always stormy and always fun, just a good day out.
VDiff & Sev - Nothing stands out without my guides to jog my memory.
HS - Snakedyke (given 5.7R but V easy) - Awesome location views and exposure, just a very cool route.
VS - Eliminate A - Great exposed climbing on an unlikely line, as good as it gets?
HVS - Red Rose Speedway - No idea really, I just loved every second of it, satisfyingly hard at the time and a great view to finish with.
E1 - Grim Wall Direct (with the better Grim Wall finish) - Nice moves on holds that just keep appearing, never hard, but rarely easy either.
<limited experience>
E2 - Poetry In Motion (really V3) - Nice moves in an isolated location with old friends.
Diff - Sub Ceneiffon Arete (might have mixed up the name?) - It's always stormy and always fun, just a good day out.
VDiff & Sev - Nothing stands out without my guides to jog my memory.
HS - Snakedyke (given 5.7R but V easy) - Awesome location views and exposure, just a very cool route.
VS - Eliminate A - Great exposed climbing on an unlikely line, as good as it gets?
HVS - Red Rose Speedway - No idea really, I just loved every second of it, satisfyingly hard at the time and a great view to finish with.
E1 - Grim Wall Direct (with the better Grim Wall finish) - Nice moves on holds that just keep appearing, never hard, but rarely easy either.
<limited experience>
E2 - Poetry In Motion (really V3) - Nice moves in an isolated location with old friends.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff: Haven't done a memorable one!
V-Diff: Little Chamonix (Shepherd's). Good climbing, superb situation, and my wife seconded it for her first ever multi-pitch climb.
Severe: January Jigsaw (Rannoch Wall). Incredible situation (even if the climbing isn't particularly memorable).
HS: Lynx (Wildcat). OK, I seem to be a bit short on HS's.
VS: The Golden Yardstick (Wildcat). Great situation, superb climbing and exposure. Spirogyra (Auchinstarry) - a great little climb, every move is committing.
HVS: Promontory Direct (Auchinstarry). Sustained, exposed, improbable looking from below and my first attempt at an HVS (even if I'm yet to lead it completely clean...)
Diff: Haven't done a memorable one!
V-Diff: Little Chamonix (Shepherd's). Good climbing, superb situation, and my wife seconded it for her first ever multi-pitch climb.
Severe: January Jigsaw (Rannoch Wall). Incredible situation (even if the climbing isn't particularly memorable).
HS: Lynx (Wildcat). OK, I seem to be a bit short on HS's.
VS: The Golden Yardstick (Wildcat). Great situation, superb climbing and exposure. Spirogyra (Auchinstarry) - a great little climb, every move is committing.
HVS: Promontory Direct (Auchinstarry). Sustained, exposed, improbable looking from below and my first attempt at an HVS (even if I'm yet to lead it completely clean...)
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod - the "scramble" up the In Pin from An Stac, mainly for the joy of trotting up it past some very scared-looking Munro-baggers.
Diff - Hmmm... not sure. I was pretty underwhelmed by Spiral Stairs but can't think of any really memorable ones I've done.
V Diff - Naismith's route as part of the Cuillin teaverse, a very memorably part of possibly the best mountain day I've ever had.
Severe - Phaff on Red Wall, Aberdeen sea cliffs. Quite an esoteric choice I know, but it's really steep and exposed for the grade, just hauling on huge jugs all the way. We did it on a really windy, rough day with massive waves crashing in, which added to the 'experience' a little.
HS - Creag Dubh Wall, Tremadog. Just really pleasant, especially the exposed traverse.
VS - The Edge, Loudon Hill. I've done this at least half a dozen times but I love it!
HVS - The Hammer, Etive Slabs. Lovely route, and a very memorable day out, especially the 'tiptoe traverse right' out of the corner across the slab.
E1 - The Conger as a DWS. My first proper DWS and such an adrenaline rush.
E2 - Beowulf, Bosigran. The first big, proper multi-pitch E2 I'd done. A stunning route, done under clear blue skies on a beautiful day.
E3 - Gillian, Sennen (but it's the only one I've done so far)
Mod - the "scramble" up the In Pin from An Stac, mainly for the joy of trotting up it past some very scared-looking Munro-baggers.
Diff - Hmmm... not sure. I was pretty underwhelmed by Spiral Stairs but can't think of any really memorable ones I've done.
V Diff - Naismith's route as part of the Cuillin teaverse, a very memorably part of possibly the best mountain day I've ever had.
Severe - Phaff on Red Wall, Aberdeen sea cliffs. Quite an esoteric choice I know, but it's really steep and exposed for the grade, just hauling on huge jugs all the way. We did it on a really windy, rough day with massive waves crashing in, which added to the 'experience' a little.
HS - Creag Dubh Wall, Tremadog. Just really pleasant, especially the exposed traverse.
VS - The Edge, Loudon Hill. I've done this at least half a dozen times but I love it!
HVS - The Hammer, Etive Slabs. Lovely route, and a very memorable day out, especially the 'tiptoe traverse right' out of the corner across the slab.
E1 - The Conger as a DWS. My first proper DWS and such an adrenaline rush.
E2 - Beowulf, Bosigran. The first big, proper multi-pitch E2 I'd done. A stunning route, done under clear blue skies on a beautiful day.
E3 - Gillian, Sennen (but it's the only one I've done so far)
Good one. Not the best route but the favourite.
Diff - Quiver Rib, AonachDubh. Lovely location and jug after wonderful jug.
VDiff - Heaven Crack, Stanage. I've soloed this with joy so many times, no other route has given me so much pleasure.
Severe - Black and Tans, Roaches. Took me a while to think of a severe but I remember soloing this for the first time and the exposure at the top was fantastic.
Hard Severe - Integrity, Skye. Done in the pouring rain with two mates. Had thought of packing in and going home but did this instead and had a great time - a really good laugh.
VS - Nozag, Castle Naze. Brilliant, delicate, exposed climbing in a lovely location. Did it with my girlfriend which also makes it special.
HVS - Perihelion, Jersey. So many HVSs, it's hard to pick one. Spent a week on Jersey and had been eyeing up this all week. Superb climbing up a prominent pillar that just screamed 'Climb me'.
E1 - Needle, Shelterstone. So many quality pitches up good quality rock and a great crag.
E2 - The Pillar, Diabaig. Again, too many to chose, but this was a loong pitch of beautiful sustained, although not hard, climbing. Made me smile big time.
E3 - India, Elgol. Not done many E3s but I reckon this is the best of the few I have done. Varied climbing - a technical, bridging first pitch, then a pull round an overhang followed by an offwidth which turned out to be a lot easier than expected. Thankfully.
E4 - Freeborn Man. Only 3 to chose from. Enjoyed the adrenaline buzz of this as I really didn't know whether I'd be able to do it. Great climbing and pulling on to the top slab was very satisfying.
Diff - Quiver Rib, AonachDubh. Lovely location and jug after wonderful jug.
VDiff - Heaven Crack, Stanage. I've soloed this with joy so many times, no other route has given me so much pleasure.
Severe - Black and Tans, Roaches. Took me a while to think of a severe but I remember soloing this for the first time and the exposure at the top was fantastic.
Hard Severe - Integrity, Skye. Done in the pouring rain with two mates. Had thought of packing in and going home but did this instead and had a great time - a really good laugh.
VS - Nozag, Castle Naze. Brilliant, delicate, exposed climbing in a lovely location. Did it with my girlfriend which also makes it special.
HVS - Perihelion, Jersey. So many HVSs, it's hard to pick one. Spent a week on Jersey and had been eyeing up this all week. Superb climbing up a prominent pillar that just screamed 'Climb me'.
E1 - Needle, Shelterstone. So many quality pitches up good quality rock and a great crag.
E2 - The Pillar, Diabaig. Again, too many to chose, but this was a loong pitch of beautiful sustained, although not hard, climbing. Made me smile big time.
E3 - India, Elgol. Not done many E3s but I reckon this is the best of the few I have done. Varied climbing - a technical, bridging first pitch, then a pull round an overhang followed by an offwidth which turned out to be a lot easier than expected. Thankfully.
E4 - Freeborn Man. Only 3 to chose from. Enjoyed the adrenaline buzz of this as I really didn't know whether I'd be able to do it. Great climbing and pulling on to the top slab was very satisfying.
In reply to all:
Great responses! Anyone got any more?!
FWIW, mine would be:
V Diff: Bowfell Buttress - Full mountain day, lovely climbing with good company - there were a team of three ahead of us who held us up the whole way which didn't bother us in the slightest as they were so friendly.
Severe: Murray's Route, Dow - Soloing this after Eliminate 'A' is one of my most memorable experiences ever. Or Dental Slab.
VS: Haste Not, White Gill - Finally got round to doing this a few weeks back, found it much harder than I expected and the exposure is something else. Fantastic.
HVS: Jeez, this is tough. Possibly Red Edge. Or Kipling. Or Golden Slipper. Or Concrete Chimney. Or Chequers Buttress. Or...
E1: Capella, Pavey - Great company, great day, lovely route. One of my best days ever.
E2: Saxon, Scafell. Just fantastic climbing the whole way. Even the last pitch throws stuff at you right to the end. Or Mousetrap for a full on experience.
E3: Hmm, not done many of these. Most have been on grit but I'll go with Rat Race, done last week as a good adventure, especially when it started to rain below the final pitch.
Great responses! Anyone got any more?!
FWIW, mine would be:
V Diff: Bowfell Buttress - Full mountain day, lovely climbing with good company - there were a team of three ahead of us who held us up the whole way which didn't bother us in the slightest as they were so friendly.
Severe: Murray's Route, Dow - Soloing this after Eliminate 'A' is one of my most memorable experiences ever. Or Dental Slab.
VS: Haste Not, White Gill - Finally got round to doing this a few weeks back, found it much harder than I expected and the exposure is something else. Fantastic.
HVS: Jeez, this is tough. Possibly Red Edge. Or Kipling. Or Golden Slipper. Or Concrete Chimney. Or Chequers Buttress. Or...
E1: Capella, Pavey - Great company, great day, lovely route. One of my best days ever.
E2: Saxon, Scafell. Just fantastic climbing the whole way. Even the last pitch throws stuff at you right to the end. Or Mousetrap for a full on experience.
E3: Hmm, not done many of these. Most have been on grit but I'll go with Rat Race, done last week as a good adventure, especially when it started to rain below the final pitch.
In reply to Andy Hobson: D Ramshead Ridge – Climbed in big boots in the wet and dark(by moonlight) and didn’t fell diff, lol. Good crack from the guys
VD Recess Route - Chimney climbing galore, good crack with one of my original climbing partners.
S Adveriky Wall - Amazing day, amazing route, amazing situation, chilling out on the ledges with mark wait for the slow party ahead.
VS King Bee - Amazing route, quality airy climbing.
HVS Centurion - Amazing route steeped in history, amazing situation going thro intimidating territory, bouldering and camping above the CIC with tim.
E1 Not easy contract - One of my first proper e1s, so nearly fell of because of the pump.
E2 Elgin's Crack - Great route that I had my eye on for 2 years, sustained technical flowing moves and great gear.
VD Recess Route - Chimney climbing galore, good crack with one of my original climbing partners.
S Adveriky Wall - Amazing day, amazing route, amazing situation, chilling out on the ledges with mark wait for the slow party ahead.
VS King Bee - Amazing route, quality airy climbing.
HVS Centurion - Amazing route steeped in history, amazing situation going thro intimidating territory, bouldering and camping above the CIC with tim.
E1 Not easy contract - One of my first proper e1s, so nearly fell of because of the pump.
E2 Elgin's Crack - Great route that I had my eye on for 2 years, sustained technical flowing moves and great gear.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Aye, good thread, but impossible!
Mod: Curved Ridge
Diff: Quiver Rib
VD: Arrow Route or Cioch Nose
S: (??!) Flying Dutchman or Eagle Ridge
HS: Main Wall or Old Man of Stoer
VS: (???!) Spartan Slab or Raven's Edge (or Haste Not)
HVS: Quietude or Inbred
E1: The Black Streak or Death Cap
E2: (??!) Shibboleth or Plague of Blazes (or The Pillar...)
E3: The Clearances or Delayed Attack (rests)
E4: Black Friday (worked)
E5: Lean Machine
Aye, good thread, but impossible!
Mod: Curved Ridge
Diff: Quiver Rib
VD: Arrow Route or Cioch Nose
S: (??!) Flying Dutchman or Eagle Ridge
HS: Main Wall or Old Man of Stoer
VS: (???!) Spartan Slab or Raven's Edge (or Haste Not)
HVS: Quietude or Inbred
E1: The Black Streak or Death Cap
E2: (??!) Shibboleth or Plague of Blazes (or The Pillar...)
E3: The Clearances or Delayed Attack (rests)
E4: Black Friday (worked)
E5: Lean Machine
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff would be the upper exum ridge on the grand teaton. a great day out which i have fond memories of.
S or H.S proably pandoras pebble pinching party palace at the Monastery, estes park, CO, the name says it all.
V.S ish 5.8 would have to be hanging teeth at Five Open Books Yosemite. a great climb but unless you have plenty of gear to fit in the 5-8" crack can get run out in sections. Commitment at 5.9ish is also a great route.
HVS there are so many good ones. FBD is nice as is Queersville.
E1 again can't narrow this down to one. Just so many good ones.
Diff would be the upper exum ridge on the grand teaton. a great day out which i have fond memories of.
S or H.S proably pandoras pebble pinching party palace at the Monastery, estes park, CO, the name says it all.
V.S ish 5.8 would have to be hanging teeth at Five Open Books Yosemite. a great climb but unless you have plenty of gear to fit in the 5-8" crack can get run out in sections. Commitment at 5.9ish is also a great route.
HVS there are so many good ones. FBD is nice as is Queersville.
E1 again can't narrow this down to one. Just so many good ones.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
VS- diocese
HVS- chequers
E1- lucky strike
E2- scoop wall
E3- Sunlover
E4- flaky wall
E11- raphsody, but its a close one with gangplank at birchens
VS- diocese
HVS- chequers
E1- lucky strike
E2- scoop wall
E3- Sunlover
E4- flaky wall
E11- raphsody, but its a close one with gangplank at birchens
This has been a really interesting thread.
Did everyone have the same trouble I did? Some grades I was struggling to think of one route I really enjoyed whereas others so many routes came to mind.
For me, both HVS and E2 gave me big trouble as I could think of so many I've had a good time on. But strangely not so many E1s stood out. Similarly, I struggled to think of a severe, but could think of many VDiffs and VSs.
Did everyone have the same trouble I did? Some grades I was struggling to think of one route I really enjoyed whereas others so many routes came to mind.
For me, both HVS and E2 gave me big trouble as I could think of so many I've had a good time on. But strangely not so many E1s stood out. Similarly, I struggled to think of a severe, but could think of many VDiffs and VSs.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Great thread.
Only talking UK here...
HVS and below, done loads of wonderful routes - but none stand out in mind particular.
I'm sure I'll think of other more memorable routes (!) afterwards but here goes:
E1: The Tippler, Stanage. Such a great line with lovely flowing moves and just enough gear. If I was to choose another E1 at Stanage I'd probably say The Link.
E2: Grande Plage, Carn Barra. A tough cookie! Reminded me a bit of Regents Street. First day at Carn Barra and we had the whole place to ourselves. I felt I could climb forever and ever!
E3: Gillian, Sennen. Pure quality. Climbed so many routes that day. Finished off the day with Samson Arete. Boy was I pumped!!!
E4: And Captain Bloods Cavern, Swanage, just did it by the skin of my teeth, with the water a long way below me feeling very pumped!
E5: Only done one: Edge Lane. The feeling I had after topping out was one of best the best feeling I've ever had.
Great thread.
Only talking UK here...
HVS and below, done loads of wonderful routes - but none stand out in mind particular.
I'm sure I'll think of other more memorable routes (!) afterwards but here goes:
E1: The Tippler, Stanage. Such a great line with lovely flowing moves and just enough gear. If I was to choose another E1 at Stanage I'd probably say The Link.
E2: Grande Plage, Carn Barra. A tough cookie! Reminded me a bit of Regents Street. First day at Carn Barra and we had the whole place to ourselves. I felt I could climb forever and ever!
E3: Gillian, Sennen. Pure quality. Climbed so many routes that day. Finished off the day with Samson Arete. Boy was I pumped!!!
E4: And Captain Bloods Cavern, Swanage, just did it by the skin of my teeth, with the water a long way below me feeling very pumped!
E5: Only done one: Edge Lane. The feeling I had after topping out was one of best the best feeling I've ever had.
In reply to El Greyo:
I inially had trouble with E1 too for some reason - then someone reminded me of Lucky Strike and I forgot Coronation Street - how I don't know.
I inially had trouble with E1 too for some reason - then someone reminded me of Lucky Strike and I forgot Coronation Street - how I don't know.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
D - Corvus - first long solo
VD - Bowfell Buttress in rainstorm
S - Pippet Slab, Stac an Faraidh - all that lovely granite padding in the sunshine
HS - Ardverikie Wall - just keeps coming, not too easy
VS - too many, how about Botterils Slab on Scafell, first big VS
HVS - Audacity, Corbys, Northumberland - breaking loose on those flutings ...
E1 - Debauchery - got to have 1 Peak climb
E2 - Astra, Pavey - just perfection
E3 - Deimos, Eagle - just desparate
D - Corvus - first long solo
VD - Bowfell Buttress in rainstorm
S - Pippet Slab, Stac an Faraidh - all that lovely granite padding in the sunshine
HS - Ardverikie Wall - just keeps coming, not too easy
VS - too many, how about Botterils Slab on Scafell, first big VS
HVS - Audacity, Corbys, Northumberland - breaking loose on those flutings ...
E1 - Debauchery - got to have 1 Peak climb
E2 - Astra, Pavey - just perfection
E3 - Deimos, Eagle - just desparate
In reply to telemark:
Yeah I agree pippet slab is nice. Only gets 1 or 2 stars surprisingly.
Yeah I agree pippet slab is nice. Only gets 1 or 2 stars surprisingly.
In reply to Yorkspud:
THUD! (The sound of ball of hand hitting forehead)
How could I forget Coronation Street? The Needle is a better route but climbing Coronation Street was something of a life changing experience and had some very unexpected but vely welcome indirect consequences.
THUD! (The sound of ball of hand hitting forehead)
How could I forget Coronation Street? The Needle is a better route but climbing Coronation Street was something of a life changing experience and had some very unexpected but vely welcome indirect consequences.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Tower Ridge
V Diff - Agags Groove
Severe - Eagle Ridge
HS - Ardverikie Wall
VS - Fionn Buttress
HVS - Centurion
E1 - Flying Buttress Direct
Diff - Tower Ridge
V Diff - Agags Groove
Severe - Eagle Ridge
HS - Ardverikie Wall
VS - Fionn Buttress
HVS - Centurion
E1 - Flying Buttress Direct
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Diff - Tower Ridge, in the rain, with an old friend who's since passed away. Great day out.
VDiff - Moonjelly at Reiff. Small but perfectly formed.
Severe - Brooker's Arete. Another short climb, but delightfully exposed on huge jugs once the balancy starting moves are passed.
HS - Talisman, Coire Etchachan. Done as the second route of the day, but even better than the first one, Scabbard (and that's saying something)
VS - Spartan Slab. Really good day out in gorgeous weather with no midges at all.
HVS - Sip From the Wine of Youth Again, Reiff. Wasn't expecting anything special when I set off, but great moves and huge exposure for such a short climb. Sometimes it's the ones that catch you off-guard that stick in your mind best...
E1 - Blue Max, Creag and Dubh Loch, simply because on one of the upper belays, I had a perfect view of a pair of golden eagles circling below me. Not often you get to look down on eagles soaring!
E2 - Earth Shaker, Reiff. Not the best E2 I've done, but the most memorable because I completely underestimated the unprotected upper wall and nearly decked off the last move due to being pumped silly. The finishing hold was a genuine "thank god" jug.
E3 - Onassis, Clashrodney (Aberdeen coast). Had to work hard for this.
Diff - Tower Ridge, in the rain, with an old friend who's since passed away. Great day out.
VDiff - Moonjelly at Reiff. Small but perfectly formed.
Severe - Brooker's Arete. Another short climb, but delightfully exposed on huge jugs once the balancy starting moves are passed.
HS - Talisman, Coire Etchachan. Done as the second route of the day, but even better than the first one, Scabbard (and that's saying something)
VS - Spartan Slab. Really good day out in gorgeous weather with no midges at all.
HVS - Sip From the Wine of Youth Again, Reiff. Wasn't expecting anything special when I set off, but great moves and huge exposure for such a short climb. Sometimes it's the ones that catch you off-guard that stick in your mind best...
E1 - Blue Max, Creag and Dubh Loch, simply because on one of the upper belays, I had a perfect view of a pair of golden eagles circling below me. Not often you get to look down on eagles soaring!
E2 - Earth Shaker, Reiff. Not the best E2 I've done, but the most memorable because I completely underestimated the unprotected upper wall and nearly decked off the last move due to being pumped silly. The finishing hold was a genuine "thank god" jug.
E3 - Onassis, Clashrodney (Aberdeen coast). Had to work hard for this.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Easy - Inn Pin Sgurr Dearg
Mod - Cneifion Arete Cwm Cneifion
Diff - Flying Buttress Dinas Cromlech
V Diff - First Pinnacle Rib Tryfan (E. Face)
HVD - Grooved Arete Tryfan (E. Face)
S - Rosehip Newstones
HS - Central Climb Hen Cloud
VS - Hollybush Crack (Neb Finish) Roaches (Upper Tier)
HVS - Roscoe's Wall Roaches (Upper Tier)
E1 - Solid Geometry Hen Cloud
E2 - Kayak Curbar
E3 - English Towns Ramshaw
E4 - Wings of Unreason Roaches (Skyline)
E5 - Entropy's Jaw (TR) Roaches (Skyline)
E6 - Piece of Mind (TR) Roaches (Lower Tier)
E7 - Obsession Fatale (TR) Roaches (Lower Tier)
HD.
Easy - Inn Pin Sgurr Dearg
Mod - Cneifion Arete Cwm Cneifion
Diff - Flying Buttress Dinas Cromlech
V Diff - First Pinnacle Rib Tryfan (E. Face)
HVD - Grooved Arete Tryfan (E. Face)
S - Rosehip Newstones
HS - Central Climb Hen Cloud
VS - Hollybush Crack (Neb Finish) Roaches (Upper Tier)
HVS - Roscoe's Wall Roaches (Upper Tier)
E1 - Solid Geometry Hen Cloud
E2 - Kayak Curbar
E3 - English Towns Ramshaw
E4 - Wings of Unreason Roaches (Skyline)
E5 - Entropy's Jaw (TR) Roaches (Skyline)
E6 - Piece of Mind (TR) Roaches (Lower Tier)
E7 - Obsession Fatale (TR) Roaches (Lower Tier)
HD.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod: Tower Ridge.
Diff: North Buttress, Buchaille Etive Mor.
V.Diff: toss up between Observatory Ridge and Agags Groove.
Severe: Integrity, Skye - although I think it said VS in my guidebook and it could sort of be either. Or if we can go foreign, Klubbruta, Eidetind, N. Norway - the climb then the scramble to the summit is about the best mountain day I have ever had.
H. Severe: hmmm, Flannel Avenue at Chair Ladder is the only thing that comes to mind at that grade.
VS: Old Man of Stoer Original Route. Fulmar vomit and all.
HVS: Ruotsalainen Reitti, Olhava, Finland. Could be touching E1. Gallionsruta, Hollanderan, Arctic Norway - although may well be worth E1 as well.
E1: Ukkosenjohdatin, Olhava, Finland.
E2: Vestpillaren with the direct start, Lofoten, Norway - although really its only an E1 in terms of climbing. Keema, Luhti, Finland - 25 mtrs of hand and fist crack heaven.
Mod: Tower Ridge.
Diff: North Buttress, Buchaille Etive Mor.
V.Diff: toss up between Observatory Ridge and Agags Groove.
Severe: Integrity, Skye - although I think it said VS in my guidebook and it could sort of be either. Or if we can go foreign, Klubbruta, Eidetind, N. Norway - the climb then the scramble to the summit is about the best mountain day I have ever had.
H. Severe: hmmm, Flannel Avenue at Chair Ladder is the only thing that comes to mind at that grade.
VS: Old Man of Stoer Original Route. Fulmar vomit and all.
HVS: Ruotsalainen Reitti, Olhava, Finland. Could be touching E1. Gallionsruta, Hollanderan, Arctic Norway - although may well be worth E1 as well.
E1: Ukkosenjohdatin, Olhava, Finland.
E2: Vestpillaren with the direct start, Lofoten, Norway - although really its only an E1 in terms of climbing. Keema, Luhti, Finland - 25 mtrs of hand and fist crack heaven.
In reply to Andy Hobson:
Mod-Inn Pinn
Diff-Tower Ridge
V Diff-Cuillin Ridge
Sev-Troutdale Pinnacle
HS-Right Angle
VS/A1-Benny (aid route at Swanage)
HVS-Hell Gates
E1-Coronation Street
Mod-Inn Pinn
Diff-Tower Ridge
V Diff-Cuillin Ridge
Sev-Troutdale Pinnacle
HS-Right Angle
VS/A1-Benny (aid route at Swanage)
HVS-Hell Gates
E1-Coronation Street
Only one trad route outside the UK in all those lists? Or did it get mentioned somewhere they have to be in the UK?
In reply to Chris F:
I can see at least three.
All by the same person mind you.
I guess most people just don't trad outside the UK as much. I've not done any trad outside the UK and the Alps, and none of the Alpine rock routes I've done have had that special thing about them yet.
AJM
I can see at least three.
All by the same person mind you.
I guess most people just don't trad outside the UK as much. I've not done any trad outside the UK and the Alps, and none of the Alpine rock routes I've done have had that special thing about them yet.
AJM
In reply to Andy Hobson:
VD-Leaning Buttress crack, Stanage
HVD- has to be Grooved Arete, E face of Tryfan. Just a quality mountain route.
S-Pedestal route (L.H variation), Roaches Upper.
VS-One Step In The Clouds, Tremadog-just superb!
HVS-as ive not done many in the UK it would have to be Assholes of August at Skaha Bluffs in BC Canada. UK route would be Eliminator at stanage despite not getting it clean.
E1-again, done more abroad an would have to be The Ultimate Everything up the stawamus Chief in Squamish, BC. has everything-cracks, face climbing, slabs, terrific exposure in places. UK route would have to be 3 pebble slab at Froggat as it was my first E1
VD-Leaning Buttress crack, Stanage
HVD- has to be Grooved Arete, E face of Tryfan. Just a quality mountain route.
S-Pedestal route (L.H variation), Roaches Upper.
VS-One Step In The Clouds, Tremadog-just superb!
HVS-as ive not done many in the UK it would have to be Assholes of August at Skaha Bluffs in BC Canada. UK route would be Eliminator at stanage despite not getting it clean.
E1-again, done more abroad an would have to be The Ultimate Everything up the stawamus Chief in Squamish, BC. has everything-cracks, face climbing, slabs, terrific exposure in places. UK route would have to be 3 pebble slab at Froggat as it was my first E1
In reply to AJM:
you need to look more carefully guys. I found six, of which only three were Tobys.
I was actually trying to avoid adding too many foreign climbs because I figured they wouldn't mean much to lots of people.
I could add in :
SnakeDyke would be a contender at VS or so.
Pa Sparket in Setesdal (a bit debatable whether it's trad but it's certainly not sport). VS or so?
Regular North West on Half Dome HVS
or Walt Bailey Memorial Route at HVS (hard to choose)
> (In reply to Chris F)
>
> I can see at least three.
>
> All by the same person mind you.
>
> I can see at least three.
>
> All by the same person mind you.
you need to look more carefully guys. I found six, of which only three were Tobys.
I was actually trying to avoid adding too many foreign climbs because I figured they wouldn't mean much to lots of people.
I could add in :
SnakeDyke would be a contender at VS or so.
Pa Sparket in Setesdal (a bit debatable whether it's trad but it's certainly not sport). VS or so?
Regular North West on Half Dome HVS
or Walt Bailey Memorial Route at HVS (hard to choose)
In reply to AJM: Ok, I will set that to rights;
UK
Diff - Squareface
V Diff - Cioch Nose
Severe - Dental Slab
HS - Talisman
VS - Tacitation
HVS - Great Western
E1 - Birthday Treat
E2 - Sacre Couer
E3 - Long John's Slab
E4 - Wings of Unreason
Outside UK
V Diff - Hawk's Eye - Tonquani Kloof - Magaliesberg SA
Severe - (Name Eludes Me) - Charleston NZ
HS - Lickety Splits - Joshua Tree - USA
VS - Jacob's Ladder - Table Mountain - South Africa
HVS - Navarre - Grampians - Australia
E1 - Splinter of the Mind's Eye - Paarl Rocks - South Africa
E2 - Energy Crisis - Wolfberg Cracks - South Africa
E3 - Birdman of Alcatraz - Arapiles - Australia
(Grades/Conversions subject to confirmation)
UK
Diff - Squareface
V Diff - Cioch Nose
Severe - Dental Slab
HS - Talisman
VS - Tacitation
HVS - Great Western
E1 - Birthday Treat
E2 - Sacre Couer
E3 - Long John's Slab
E4 - Wings of Unreason
Outside UK
V Diff - Hawk's Eye - Tonquani Kloof - Magaliesberg SA
Severe - (Name Eludes Me) - Charleston NZ
HS - Lickety Splits - Joshua Tree - USA
VS - Jacob's Ladder - Table Mountain - South Africa
HVS - Navarre - Grampians - Australia
E1 - Splinter of the Mind's Eye - Paarl Rocks - South Africa
E2 - Energy Crisis - Wolfberg Cracks - South Africa
E3 - Birdman of Alcatraz - Arapiles - Australia
(Grades/Conversions subject to confirmation)
In reply to IainWhitehouse:
> you need to look more carefully guys. I found six, of which only three were Tobys.
Apologies, just did a quick look through, not an exact count, and 95% seemed to be British. didn't see toby's 3 at all.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...