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What's the easiest route (compared to then normal lead grade) that you've backed off and why?
I seriously considered comming down off a severe this weekend, I'd already retreated from it twice in years gone by but thought this time would be ok... got to exactly the same point and thought 'sod this for a game of soldiers!'. I faffed for ages like a right numpty
Why... hard to say really, it's just worrying and a bit of a sandbag (though even at VS that really should be no excuse).
So... bring on the tales of ineptness please
jk
I seriously considered comming down off a severe this weekend, I'd already retreated from it twice in years gone by but thought this time would be ok... got to exactly the same point and thought 'sod this for a game of soldiers!'. I faffed for ages like a right numpty
Why... hard to say really, it's just worrying and a bit of a sandbag (though even at VS that really should be no excuse).
So... bring on the tales of ineptness please
jk
In reply to jkarran:
I didn't fancy that unprotected high step from the road onto the pavement, so I traversed left and used the short ramp instead
I didn't fancy that unprotected high step from the road onto the pavement, so I traversed left and used the short ramp instead
In reply to jkarran:
No idea. Soloing probably a V Diff or something.
Ah, have remembered one, leading, Black Jam Arete HVS down in Dartmoor, f--king nails I thought, failed on it twice.
Hope that's useful info.
No idea. Soloing probably a V Diff or something.
Ah, have remembered one, leading, Black Jam Arete HVS down in Dartmoor, f--king nails I thought, failed on it twice.
Hope that's useful info.
In reply to CJD: got someone to chuck me a top rope on final selection in the cairngorms. Thought i'd do it with big boots and rucksack, single rope and hardly any gear (which i ran out of half way up). The offer of a rope for the last 10/15m was too good to refuse!.
In reply to jkarran:
i set off up it in my trainers, thinking 'it's a diff, right?'
it just felt horrible.
claggy mountain weather, non diff-feeling route, a chap we were with pointing me at it and then when I decided I didn't like it, admitting that it felt sandbaggy to him. Why point me at it then?
all a bit odd. A total low-point on a pretty low-point-of-climbing weekend.
i set off up it in my trainers, thinking 'it's a diff, right?'
it just felt horrible.
claggy mountain weather, non diff-feeling route, a chap we were with pointing me at it and then when I decided I didn't like it, admitting that it felt sandbaggy to him. Why point me at it then?
all a bit odd. A total low-point on a pretty low-point-of-climbing weekend.
In reply to AG: its a diff by the way
In reply to jkarran:
Excluding solos, and routes that I've made harder by wearing big boots or such like, then it's Cup and Saucer at Almscliff - VDiff now, but Diff when I first didn't do it
Excluding solos, and routes that I've made harder by wearing big boots or such like, then it's Cup and Saucer at Almscliff - VDiff now, but Diff when I first didn't do it
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
I deliberately never tried that so I'd never have to fail on it <hangs head in shame>.
jk
> Excluding solos, and routes that I've made harder by wearing big boots or such like, then it's Cup and Saucer at Almscliff - VDiff now, but Diff when I first didn't do it
I deliberately never tried that so I'd never have to fail on it <hangs head in shame>.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
A HVD at the Roaches a couple of weeks back. Id done the first section of it and was waiting on a little ledge whilst it stopped raining (again). The last bit was a green, horrible, slimey mess so instead of abbing down off potentially crap gear i brought my belayer up and we turned it into my first multi-pitch experience.
A HVD at the Roaches a couple of weeks back. Id done the first section of it and was waiting on a little ledge whilst it stopped raining (again). The last bit was a green, horrible, slimey mess so instead of abbing down off potentially crap gear i brought my belayer up and we turned it into my first multi-pitch experience.
In reply to jkarran:
am I allowed to mention backing off Heather Wall a couple of weeks ago too?
in my defence it was a day where I shouldn't have been anywhere near rock, but was too polite to feel able to say that to my partner. D'oh.
am I allowed to mention backing off Heather Wall a couple of weeks ago too?
in my defence it was a day where I shouldn't have been anywhere near rock, but was too polite to feel able to say that to my partner. D'oh.
In reply to jkarran: I still get the piss well and truly ripped out of me for backing off Telescope Tunnel at Birchen (mod or diff - though probably ungradeable really). My excuse was I got part way up and couldn't work out at all where it was meant to go, but that bit gets over looked by those rolling about in fits of laughter when they get informed.
In reply to jkarran:
yeah, it was totally crap of me! my head's been proper all over the place and the scale of my fear was tooootally disproportionate to my location. Most odd.
yeah, it was totally crap of me! my head's been proper all over the place and the scale of my fear was tooootally disproportionate to my location. Most odd.
In reply to CJD:
The Ordinary Route - Idwal Slabs.
Mick
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> a diff on the back of Ben Narnain.
>
> hah!
>
> beat that!
>
> a diff on the back of Ben Narnain.
>
> hah!
>
> beat that!
The Ordinary Route - Idwal Slabs.
Mick
In reply to CJD:
Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs (Mod)
PS It was p*ssing with rain and had become a waterfall. I Didn't like cold water being forced under pressure down my sleeves and under my clothes, so backed off.
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> a diff on the back of Ben Narnain.
>
> hah!
>
> beat that!
>
> a diff on the back of Ben Narnain.
>
> hah!
>
> beat that!
Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs (Mod)
PS It was p*ssing with rain and had become a waterfall. I Didn't like cold water being forced under pressure down my sleeves and under my clothes, so backed off.
In reply to jkarran:
Old Man of Stoer - heat wave, clammy rock, no gear, no faith in the guidebook. We spent an hour on the big ledge on the landward side trying to get off it and eventually called it a day. We were in a fairly cavalier mood, and should have had no problems at all but somehow we just managed to spook ourselves on it. I guess seacliffs do that sometimes.
Old Man of Stoer - heat wave, clammy rock, no gear, no faith in the guidebook. We spent an hour on the big ledge on the landward side trying to get off it and eventually called it a day. We were in a fairly cavalier mood, and should have had no problems at all but somehow we just managed to spook ourselves on it. I guess seacliffs do that sometimes.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Always used to be a Mod, but if it's been upgraded it's a soft touch at that grade.
Always used to be a Mod, but if it's been upgraded it's a soft touch at that grade.
In reply to jkarran:
Soloing, quite a lot of stuff. I backed off a diff (Slab Recess at Froggatt) a couple of months ago, despite having led the route, seconded it and soloed it previously, because I didn't fancy the layback flake that day.
Leading - I downclimbed a HS last month at Stanage and passed the lead over to my partner as it wasn't my style (fist-jamming, shudder) and I thought I was going to fall off. I went on to lead my first E1 the same day
Soloing, quite a lot of stuff. I backed off a diff (Slab Recess at Froggatt) a couple of months ago, despite having led the route, seconded it and soloed it previously, because I didn't fancy the layback flake that day.
Leading - I downclimbed a HS last month at Stanage and passed the lead over to my partner as it wasn't my style (fist-jamming, shudder) and I thought I was going to fall off. I went on to lead my first E1 the same day
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Surely Hard Lutz or Mild Axel may be more appropriate!
> (In reply to Trangia)
> Maybe it should be Hard Mod. Or Mild Diff.
> Maybe it should be Hard Mod. Or Mild Diff.
Surely Hard Lutz or Mild Axel may be more appropriate!
In reply to jkarran:
You can't call yourself a climber till you have led all the routes under VS at Almscliffe,
I do not class myself as a climber.
You can't call yourself a climber till you have led all the routes under VS at Almscliffe,
I do not class myself as a climber.
In reply to jkarran:
Soloing, the most recent was a 5 metre Diff at the Wainstones last week! It was one of those swing-left-round-the arete routes, where as soon as you leave the ground you're suddenly facing a 4 metre fall onto pointy rocks...
Soloing, the most recent was a 5 metre Diff at the Wainstones last week! It was one of those swing-left-round-the arete routes, where as soon as you leave the ground you're suddenly facing a 4 metre fall onto pointy rocks...
In reply to Trangia:
And I always thought it was just me (well, us). The slabs were covered with nearly a foot of snow. Quite a way up, my second, Brummie Chris, burst into tears with the cold. I'd have died for her. We climbed down.
It's got to the ultimate 'failure tick' though. We're members of an exclusive club...
Mick
> (In reply to Mick Ward)
>
> Snap!
>
> Snap!
And I always thought it was just me (well, us). The slabs were covered with nearly a foot of snow. Quite a way up, my second, Brummie Chris, burst into tears with the cold. I'd have died for her. We climbed down.
It's got to the ultimate 'failure tick' though. We're members of an exclusive club...
Mick
In reply to sutty:
Oo, that means I can nearly call myself a climber
Only about half a dozen to go I think. The main obstacles being Fisher's Traverse (I can't work out from the description where on earth it's supposed to go), and Leaf Climb (which has the look of a major sandbag, I'm not convinced anyone's climbed the top section since the leaf fell out in about 1915!)
Oo, that means I can nearly call myself a climber
Only about half a dozen to go I think. The main obstacles being Fisher's Traverse (I can't work out from the description where on earth it's supposed to go), and Leaf Climb (which has the look of a major sandbag, I'm not convinced anyone's climbed the top section since the leaf fell out in about 1915!)
In reply to jkarran:
Gave up before even getting off the ground on that HD at The Roaches Upper Tier. Central Massive? Oh this site has it as a Diff, ha ha! I touched the rock so it kind of counts as an "attempt".
Gave up before even getting off the ground on that HD at The Roaches Upper Tier. Central Massive? Oh this site has it as a Diff, ha ha! I touched the rock so it kind of counts as an "attempt".
In reply to jkarran:
a diff in rocky valley at ilkley. an unprotectable chimney that opened out alarmingly just as i was looking to make the final rounded greasy top out in the rain. looked down at how far i'd fall if i slipped off, and what i'd land on, and made an indignified slither back down the inside the bottom.
then looked at three slabs route next to it, didnt fancy that in the wet either.
so slunk off in a foul mood back to the car park...
a diff in rocky valley at ilkley. an unprotectable chimney that opened out alarmingly just as i was looking to make the final rounded greasy top out in the rain. looked down at how far i'd fall if i slipped off, and what i'd land on, and made an indignified slither back down the inside the bottom.
then looked at three slabs route next to it, didnt fancy that in the wet either.
so slunk off in a foul mood back to the car park...
In reply to jkarran:
The black Thief - VS 4b - on the Prow at Fair head this very weekend.....1st climb of the day, 1st time climbing there, dont know why but just couldn't get my head into it. Knew I could climb it (and indeed did second it in the rain later) but just couldn't commit to the moves...p*ssed me off no end!
> What's the easiest route (compared to then normal lead grade) that you've backed off and why?
>
> I seriously considered comming down off a severe this weekend, I'd already retreated from it twice in years gone by but thought this time would be ok... got to exactly the same point and thought 'sod this for a game of soldiers!'. I faffed for ages like a right numpty
>
> Why... hard to say really, it's just worrying and a bit of a sandbag (though even at VS that really should be no excuse).
>
> So... bring on the tales of ineptness please
>
> jk
>
> I seriously considered comming down off a severe this weekend, I'd already retreated from it twice in years gone by but thought this time would be ok... got to exactly the same point and thought 'sod this for a game of soldiers!'. I faffed for ages like a right numpty
>
> Why... hard to say really, it's just worrying and a bit of a sandbag (though even at VS that really should be no excuse).
>
> So... bring on the tales of ineptness please
>
> jk
The black Thief - VS 4b - on the Prow at Fair head this very weekend.....1st climb of the day, 1st time climbing there, dont know why but just couldn't get my head into it. Knew I could climb it (and indeed did second it in the rain later) but just couldn't commit to the moves...p*ssed me off no end!
In reply to jkarran: Erm...grotto slab at Stanage, soloing.
Yes, that one. The one you solo down to save walking round to the path.
In my defence, I wasn't very well at the time.
T.
Yes, that one. The one you solo down to save walking round to the path.
In my defence, I wasn't very well at the time.
T.
In reply to sutty:
Ah well, I can live with that. I'm probably best classed as a boulderer anyway
jk
> You can't call yourself a climber till you have led all the routes under VS at Almscliffe,
Ah well, I can live with that. I'm probably best classed as a boulderer anyway
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Firstly we should be discounting tight squeezes (where I still cannot tick some mods) or Mick Ward's smart arse waterfall climbing in the rain on Idwall slabs or routes which are overgrown or with broken holds.
As a pretty typical experienced VS leader, in good conditions there are numerous routes from Mod where I've had to step back down for a rethink before finishing them. For genuine fails (despite many tries) my current lowest stoppers are several at HS although I came close to failing on a VD at Ravenstones recently (this fail grade used to be HVD for me but the easier graded nasty routes keep dissapearing as the new guidebooks pick up the sandbags).
If you haven't had to think about a route at least 5 grades below your normal onsight lead grade you must be a shameless, classics-ticking, sandbag-avoiding tart.
Firstly we should be discounting tight squeezes (where I still cannot tick some mods) or Mick Ward's smart arse waterfall climbing in the rain on Idwall slabs or routes which are overgrown or with broken holds.
As a pretty typical experienced VS leader, in good conditions there are numerous routes from Mod where I've had to step back down for a rethink before finishing them. For genuine fails (despite many tries) my current lowest stoppers are several at HS although I came close to failing on a VD at Ravenstones recently (this fail grade used to be HVD for me but the easier graded nasty routes keep dissapearing as the new guidebooks pick up the sandbags).
If you haven't had to think about a route at least 5 grades below your normal onsight lead grade you must be a shameless, classics-ticking, sandbag-avoiding tart.
In reply to Offwidth:
I did initially mean 'routes in ok condition' and 'climbed in an appropriate style' but thought I'd wait and see what people came up with... lots of wet slimey epics it would seem.
Thinking about it, there's a VDiff here I backed off a couple of years back, that's probably my easiest failure.
jk
I did initially mean 'routes in ok condition' and 'climbed in an appropriate style' but thought I'd wait and see what people came up with... lots of wet slimey epics it would seem.
Thinking about it, there's a VDiff here I backed off a couple of years back, that's probably my easiest failure.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Pinnacle ridge on Skye (Sgurr nan gillean), diff with the downclimb from the 3rd pinnacle.
i was solo'ing though on a mountain and it was raining with pretty much gale force winds...
backed off from the the diff downclimb on the 3rd pinnacle. was pretty scared!!
Pinnacle ridge on Skye (Sgurr nan gillean), diff with the downclimb from the 3rd pinnacle.
i was solo'ing though on a mountain and it was raining with pretty much gale force winds...
backed off from the the diff downclimb on the 3rd pinnacle. was pretty scared!!
In reply to jkarran:
Backed off First Pinnacle Rib in Tryfan weekend before last. The shame and embarrassment of it!
It was starting to rain, and my back was hurting, and....and....
Well, no other excuses really apart from it "just not feeling right". I've learned to listen to that little voice...whenever I've ignred it, I've got hurt.
Backed off First Pinnacle Rib in Tryfan weekend before last. The shame and embarrassment of it!
It was starting to rain, and my back was hurting, and....and....
Well, no other excuses really apart from it "just not feeling right". I've learned to listen to that little voice...whenever I've ignred it, I've got hurt.
In reply to jkarran:
If you allow routes in appalling condition, then can I claim those where I've backed off before leaving the house?
> did initially mean 'routes in ok condition'
If you allow routes in appalling condition, then can I claim those where I've backed off before leaving the house?
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
If you want, I'm all for funny/lame tales of temporary incompetance over strict adherance to rules any day.
jk
> If you allow routes in appalling condition, then can I claim those where I've backed off before leaving the house?
If you want, I'm all for funny/lame tales of temporary incompetance over strict adherance to rules any day.
jk
In reply to jkarran: my first ever outdoor climbing experience was top-roping Sun, Sea, Sand at Northcott Mouth near Bude, my mate set off to arrange top rope and I said I'll follow you up, he hared off up the scramble at the back leaving me about half way up with about 25ft drop either side experiencing my first serious vertigo attack. I was there for about 20 minutes, shaking, my heart racing, walkers on beach looking at me wondering whether I was in trouble or not. My mate had abb'ed down after setting up and was looking for me, eventually i pulled myself together down-climbed very gingerly and returned to my mate saying 'sorry mate been for a poo' i know its a bit off topic but funny anyway
In reply to jkarran:
I've backed off on a walk in does that count?
I've backed off on a walk in does that count?
In reply to jkarran:
Backed off a Diff; Crack Climb on Stob Coire nan Beith. Felt alarmingly loose, steep and serious for the grade and had the fortuitous excuse of a deadline for getting back to work. The excuse of "it's more of a winter cliff really" was pioneered that day.
Backed off a Diff; Crack Climb on Stob Coire nan Beith. Felt alarmingly loose, steep and serious for the grade and had the fortuitous excuse of a deadline for getting back to work. The excuse of "it's more of a winter cliff really" was pioneered that day.
In reply to jkarran:
A HVD at Aldery Cliff - Central Arete.
The bottom half is a chossy scramble, with no gear, then the top half is a blank arete, with no gear. You are supposed to escape off left into a tree. Except the tree has been cut down. The one bit of gear was at about half height, and was quite frankly shite. The top half of the climb, as the escape into the tree no longer exists is about VS.
I did escape off left, anyway, to the stump of where the tree had been, and decided to go and re-lead the one and only VS I'd led - a few months earlier, as that one did have gear on it.
A HVD at Aldery Cliff - Central Arete.
The bottom half is a chossy scramble, with no gear, then the top half is a blank arete, with no gear. You are supposed to escape off left into a tree. Except the tree has been cut down. The one bit of gear was at about half height, and was quite frankly shite. The top half of the climb, as the escape into the tree no longer exists is about VS.
I did escape off left, anyway, to the stump of where the tree had been, and decided to go and re-lead the one and only VS I'd led - a few months earlier, as that one did have gear on it.
In reply to jkarran:
We also backed off some vdiff on Idwal Slabs. Caught in a complete downpour in winter. Remember watching hailstones bounding off the helmet of the second as I brought him up .. that was the best bit.
We also backed off some vdiff on Idwal Slabs. Caught in a complete downpour in winter. Remember watching hailstones bounding off the helmet of the second as I brought him up .. that was the best bit.
In reply to jkarran:
I've forgotten the name of the route but it's on the south side of Taquitz Rock. Was only our second trip on our own my partner and me and we were pretty green.
The route is something like I dunno 5.7 but it's very exposed and dead vertical. Not easy to get to either. So uh.....yeah. Next route option. lol
I've forgotten the name of the route but it's on the south side of Taquitz Rock. Was only our second trip on our own my partner and me and we were pretty green.
The route is something like I dunno 5.7 but it's very exposed and dead vertical. Not easy to get to either. So uh.....yeah. Next route option. lol
I made a run for it when I heard the ice cream van sound once. I caught him on the 2nd street away
In reply to jkarran:
Loads of stuff sub-VS on grit soloing.
With a rope - not sure. Z Climb at Almscliff sticks out as does Goliath's Groove. Although they were more failures than getting scared and backing off.
I did once abseil back down the Western Chimney of the Douglas Boulder - we were on the Ben (in the rain) with some vague idea of doing Tower Ridge, sans map, guidebook or competence. We went up the chimney and somewhere near the top became sufficiently alarmed that we went back down. Does that count?
Loads of stuff sub-VS on grit soloing.
With a rope - not sure. Z Climb at Almscliff sticks out as does Goliath's Groove. Although they were more failures than getting scared and backing off.
I did once abseil back down the Western Chimney of the Douglas Boulder - we were on the Ben (in the rain) with some vague idea of doing Tower Ridge, sans map, guidebook or competence. We went up the chimney and somewhere near the top became sufficiently alarmed that we went back down. Does that count?
In reply to jkarran:
Some diff at Brimham in the pouring rain, late last year. It just wasn't any fun!
Some diff at Brimham in the pouring rain, late last year. It just wasn't any fun!
The 900ft VS at Sa Gubia, Mallorca. I was on honeymoon about 9 years ago and got up early one morning. I was at the base of the route by 7.30am. After soloing a couple of pitches i got spooked and retreated. when i got back to the villa my wife was still asleep and did not even realise that i had even gone climbing.
In reply to craig d:
No, she just didn't bust you for it.
She knew.
Aint that right ladies? lol
> when i got back to the villa my wife was still asleep and did not even realise that i had even gone climbing.
No, she just didn't bust you for it.
She knew.
Aint that right ladies? lol
In reply to Dominion:
Oh, and just read the route description in the old Stoney guide. The top of the arete is 4b, you're supposed to get off it at about 10m up, and go up some crack, and not try the exposed last 25metres up the arete...
Oh, and just read the route description in the old Stoney guide. The top of the arete is 4b, you're supposed to get off it at about 10m up, and go up some crack, and not try the exposed last 25metres up the arete...
In reply to craig d:
Good descision. It gets very thin and exposed to the upper pitches. Plenty of crack and thread belays though, hence the VS grade, but they wouldn't have been much use to you soloing!
Good descision. It gets very thin and exposed to the upper pitches. Plenty of crack and thread belays though, hence the VS grade, but they wouldn't have been much use to you soloing!
In reply to jkarran: Oh, loads! Pretty much any grade from mod upwards if soloing. If it don't feel exactly right, I don't do it! **grin**.
Leading? Probably Hollybush Crack (D/VD) at Stanage. Caught in a utter utter drenchpour a third of way up, didn't take much gear with me as I usually solo it, ran out of gear, it got very, very slippy, etc. In comparison my lead grade was/is somewhere between VS and E3 depending on angle, r's in month, etc **grin**.
Mind you, there's shedloads of routes of any grade I **should** have backed off....
Leading? Probably Hollybush Crack (D/VD) at Stanage. Caught in a utter utter drenchpour a third of way up, didn't take much gear with me as I usually solo it, ran out of gear, it got very, very slippy, etc. In comparison my lead grade was/is somewhere between VS and E3 depending on angle, r's in month, etc **grin**.
Mind you, there's shedloads of routes of any grade I **should** have backed off....
In reply to jkarran:
Backed off a few Diffs/V Diffs in Midlands because of spiders.
They were guarding the route and didn't wish us to climb that day.
So we didn't.
Backed off a few Diffs/V Diffs in Midlands because of spiders.
They were guarding the route and didn't wish us to climb that day.
So we didn't.
In reply to jkarran:
Two Severes, both at Tremadog. PMP and Valerie Rib. Severe was my limit back then, whereas now I have climbed to the lofty heights of Hard Severe :-o.
Two Severes, both at Tremadog. PMP and Valerie Rib. Severe was my limit back then, whereas now I have climbed to the lofty heights of Hard Severe :-o.
In reply to TRNovice:
I once backed off Valerie Rib when I fell off the path on the walk-in - properly fell, that is, about 15 feet! So took it as an omen and did PMP for the umpteenth time instead
I once backed off Valerie Rib when I fell off the path on the walk-in - properly fell, that is, about 15 feet! So took it as an omen and did PMP for the umpteenth time instead
In reply to TRNovice:
There's nothing quite like dropping something off a route and watching it tumble away into the distance to give you the willies! Freaks me out every time.
jk
There's nothing quite like dropping something off a route and watching it tumble away into the distance to give you the willies! Freaks me out every time.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Last year I backed off that horrible polished chimney at the top of Tryfan, Thompsons Chimney is it, think it was only HS...
Last year I backed off that horrible polished chimney at the top of Tryfan, Thompsons Chimney is it, think it was only HS...
In reply to CJD:
I can beat that - I've backed off an Easy (soloing a chossy route) and several Grade 1s in winter (crap or dangerous conditions while soloing).
Can anyone beat Easy and Grade 1?
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> a diff on the back of Ben Narnain.
>
> hah!
>
> beat that!
>
> a diff on the back of Ben Narnain.
>
> hah!
>
> beat that!
I can beat that - I've backed off an Easy (soloing a chossy route) and several Grade 1s in winter (crap or dangerous conditions while soloing).
Can anyone beat Easy and Grade 1?
In reply to jkarran:
A friend of mine needed a rope chucked down a Mod.
He leads about E1/2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (hello Che!)
A friend of mine needed a rope chucked down a Mod.
He leads about E1/2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (hello Che!)
In reply to jkarran:
Tried to back of a Mod before the crux (okay it was a ridge traverse). Almost fell off the 'escape' though so got back on it!
Otherwise I've backed off at least two VDiffs. I may have been off route on the one in Glen Nevis as it was a distinctly un-VDiff type thing I found myself on!
Tried to back of a Mod before the crux (okay it was a ridge traverse). Almost fell off the 'escape' though so got back on it!
Otherwise I've backed off at least two VDiffs. I may have been off route on the one in Glen Nevis as it was a distinctly un-VDiff type thing I found myself on!
In reply to jkarran: The easiest route I have fallen off an concequentley not done was a wet bowfell butteress. I have also failed on a grit severe that I tried to solo in trainers.
I have failed on lots of 5a pitches rescentley, particaully Rough Wall which is nails.
I have failed on lots of 5a pitches rescentley, particaully Rough Wall which is nails.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
I think my friends watched you fail on Rough Wall recently. God knows how they knew it was you. Anyway... that's far too tricky to count... I want shameful tales of incompetance and cowardice.
jk
I think my friends watched you fail on Rough Wall recently. God knows how they knew it was you. Anyway... that's far too tricky to count... I want shameful tales of incompetance and cowardice.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
It could just as easily have been me they were watching. Or judging by the logbooks database, one of any number of others...
It could just as easily have been me they were watching. Or judging by the logbooks database, one of any number of others...
In reply to jkarran: was one of them from York Uni and the other Sheff Uni? How did they work that out? It's like I'm famous lol.
Incompitance: a similar sort of route, also graded VS 5a at Twisilton scar.
Incompitance: a similar sort of route, also graded VS 5a at Twisilton scar.
In reply to jkarran:
Don't breathe a word or this to anyone, but I backed off Rotunda Gully in the Roaches (Mod). Not that there's any excuse, but it was raining and I was hungover.
Don't breathe a word or this to anyone, but I backed off Rotunda Gully in the Roaches (Mod). Not that there's any excuse, but it was raining and I was hungover.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
Yeah, that'd be them.
Oh god... that sounds familiar! In my defence I was hungover (or should have been despite feeling quite well).
jk
> was one of them from York Uni and the other Sheff Uni? How did they work that out? It's like I'm famous lol.
Yeah, that'd be them.
> Incompitance: a similar sort of route, also graded VS 5a at Twisilton scar.
Oh god... that sounds familiar! In my defence I was hungover (or should have been despite feeling quite well).
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Backed of the second pitch of Valkery at the Roaches, but decide to make an escape up the final section of Matinee (most god-aweful HVS I know). Onsighted Chalkstorm and a couple of E2s the following day...
As mitigation, I feel the fact that my belayer had fallen over backwards and nearly pulled me off the rock during my lead of the first pitch, which would have resulted in crater-ing from roughly the height of the ledge - I thought the initial section was so easy, I hadn't put much in the way of gear in... Funnily enough I now put gear in when I've got a rope on even if the route is stupidly easy!
Backed of the second pitch of Valkery at the Roaches, but decide to make an escape up the final section of Matinee (most god-aweful HVS I know). Onsighted Chalkstorm and a couple of E2s the following day...
As mitigation, I feel the fact that my belayer had fallen over backwards and nearly pulled me off the rock during my lead of the first pitch, which would have resulted in crater-ing from roughly the height of the ledge - I thought the initial section was so easy, I hadn't put much in the way of gear in... Funnily enough I now put gear in when I've got a rope on even if the route is stupidly easy!
In reply to jkarran:
Dubh Ridge (mod)
Completed the route to the absail in stunning conditions, then it started to piss down.
Took an exit route off rather than continue to the top in the rain.
Is this the first named mod on the list
ruth
not logged on
Dubh Ridge (mod)
Completed the route to the absail in stunning conditions, then it started to piss down.
Took an exit route off rather than continue to the top in the rain.
Is this the first named mod on the list
ruth
not logged on
In reply to jkarran: its got to be old man of stoer!
drove all that way for that one climb( and filled up with many others) on third pitch last year, and was completely stuck!, protection was rubbish, could not hear my partners and got the shakes, so it was a no goer!!
i'll be back
drove all that way for that one climb( and filled up with many others) on third pitch last year, and was completely stuck!, protection was rubbish, could not hear my partners and got the shakes, so it was a no goer!!
i'll be back
In reply to kevin k: Eagle Ridge Direct, just after doing a 2 pitch E1 up the hill!!!
Jusdidn't like the llok of it, the first pitch was enough and we abbed off.
Jusdidn't like the llok of it, the first pitch was enough and we abbed off.
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
1978, Ordinary Route, Idwal Slabs. Got to the top of the first pitch and the heavens opened. We'd never been on anything higher than a Peak District gritstone edge at the time so absailed off and hid in the tent for two days until it stopped raining. 29 years later I've never been back to try again.
1978, Ordinary Route, Idwal Slabs. Got to the top of the first pitch and the heavens opened. We'd never been on anything higher than a Peak District gritstone edge at the time so absailed off and hid in the tent for two days until it stopped raining. 29 years later I've never been back to try again.
In reply to jkarran
well i suppose i should admit my failure on the same evening.
a hvs that i didn't even really try.
but in my defence it did seem a bit steep...
well i suppose i should admit my failure on the same evening.
a hvs that i didn't even really try.
but in my defence it did seem a bit steep...
In reply to kevin k: I failed on that too. In mitigation it was February (we did a Grade III next the same week) but the only reason was I was a wimp.
Mind you I have never laughed so much as when my mate was retreatng - deal was, I went first, he took the gear. I got back to dry land OK - with the weight of the gear he ended up in the Atlantic.
Mind you I have never laughed so much as when my mate was retreatng - deal was, I went first, he took the gear. I got back to dry land OK - with the weight of the gear he ended up in the Atlantic.
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:
I remember once going to Simon's Seat.
Saw what looked like an easy scramble up the main face: it gave me pause for thought, so at the top I checked the guide and found it to be Simple Simon (Severe). Then I had a go at a Vdiff round the back - no problems. Then I had a go at the adjacent Diff.
The overhanging crack at the top scared me, so I backed off.
Y.
I remember once going to Simon's Seat.
Saw what looked like an easy scramble up the main face: it gave me pause for thought, so at the top I checked the guide and found it to be Simple Simon (Severe). Then I had a go at a Vdiff round the back - no problems. Then I had a go at the adjacent Diff.
The overhanging crack at the top scared me, so I backed off.
Y.
In reply to Rob Exile Ward: good one, i did the swim across and set up the traverse.
In reply to jkarran: I have the story of an E1 leading friend who managed to pack in a v.diff 2 feet off the ground coz he couldn't do it, that was a fun day...
In reply to jkarran:
Moss Ghyll on Scafell one easter, VDiff in one of those very dodgy Constable guides.. there was wet snow on it, my fingers were frozen. Got up maybe 100ft. (This was our second attempt, first abandoned in low cloud when we couldn't even find the start).
Has anybody done this route- have I missed anything? Third time lucky maybe?
Normal lead grade then VS in dry conditions.
Moss Ghyll on Scafell one easter, VDiff in one of those very dodgy Constable guides.. there was wet snow on it, my fingers were frozen. Got up maybe 100ft. (This was our second attempt, first abandoned in low cloud when we couldn't even find the start).
Has anybody done this route- have I missed anything? Third time lucky maybe?
Normal lead grade then VS in dry conditions.
In reply to jkarran:
I currently fail on more routes than I get to the top of. So much so, that I made a list
Since my first lead (aug 04), I've failed to get to the top of 94 trad routes. The reasons - 32 due to just not physically good enough, 46 due to my mind, 16 for external reasons (e.g. conditions).
Can also be broken down into: 56 on lead, 26 soloes, 9 on second, 3 on top rope (SS). Or into grade: 1 Mod, 8 Diffs, 11 VD, 5 HVD, 1 MS, 17 S, 8 HS, 1 MVS, 23 VS, 6 HVS, 4 E1, 4 E2, 2 E3, 2 5a, 1 5b
I currently fail on more routes than I get to the top of. So much so, that I made a list
Since my first lead (aug 04), I've failed to get to the top of 94 trad routes. The reasons - 32 due to just not physically good enough, 46 due to my mind, 16 for external reasons (e.g. conditions).
Can also be broken down into: 56 on lead, 26 soloes, 9 on second, 3 on top rope (SS). Or into grade: 1 Mod, 8 Diffs, 11 VD, 5 HVD, 1 MS, 17 S, 8 HS, 1 MVS, 23 VS, 6 HVS, 4 E1, 4 E2, 2 E3, 2 5a, 1 5b
In reply to cider nut:
My god! I bet you must have books and lists for all sorts of things don't you... I'd need a book to keep track of all my books if I were half that organised
p.s. you appear to have backed off more routes in the last 3 years than I've climbed... not sure if that says more about me or you!
Wow!
jk
My god! I bet you must have books and lists for all sorts of things don't you... I'd need a book to keep track of all my books if I were half that organised
p.s. you appear to have backed off more routes in the last 3 years than I've climbed... not sure if that says more about me or you!
Wow!
jk
In reply to jkarran:
The only route I've backed off is The Chasm on BEM.
Thats the good ole' VS grade for ya
The only route I've backed off is The Chasm on BEM.
Thats the good ole' VS grade for ya
In reply to jkarran: Choss and Chips, Sev, at Vicarage Cliff, N Devon, because it was terminally loose and test the pro just pulled rock off. Arghhhhh.
In reply to Chris_Mellor:
Giants Crawl on Dow, a couple of days after filling our boots with half a dozen Borrowdale HVS's
Giants Crawl on Dow, a couple of days after filling our boots with half a dozen Borrowdale HVS's
In reply to CJD:
lol, thankfully not. That was Steptoe at Burbage North on 17th Feb (Peak meet, same day we said hi to you in the Little John I think), which I tried to solo but decided it was far too wet!
> was the mod on toprope?
lol, thankfully not. That was Steptoe at Burbage North on 17th Feb (Peak meet, same day we said hi to you in the Little John I think), which I tried to solo but decided it was far too wet!
In reply to jkarran: I fell off the top move of my first ever lead, a 20ft Diff. Fortunately my runner held, so I only fell 19ft.
In reply to bumpy jonas:
RE: route 3
I finally yoyo'd up it, a couple of months ago. Took me 3 attempts placing runner and going back to ground,. What is it about the bloody route
RE: route 3
I finally yoyo'd up it, a couple of months ago. Took me 3 attempts placing runner and going back to ground,. What is it about the bloody route
In reply to jkarran:
Table Direct on Cyfrwy; abseiled off in a rather sudden snowstorm,
Table Direct on Cyfrwy; abseiled off in a rather sudden snowstorm,
In reply to jkarran: backed off the 'crux' on a grade 3 scramble, dolmen ridge, on glyder fach a coupla years ago. (with pro!)...
there is a steep and surprisinglyly nasty chimney that was so loose i just couldnt face it and backed off.
there is a steep and surprisinglyly nasty chimney that was so loose i just couldnt face it and backed off.
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