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Sonny Trotter is in town and seems really fired up to climb Rhapsody.
He was working on Requiem with his mate Cory today and he led it this evening without much problem.
He seems a really cool guy and was happy chatting to the folk at the crag, however a few blank stares made me think he had trouble understanding the Glesgae!
He was working on Requiem with his mate Cory today and he led it this evening without much problem.
He seems a really cool guy and was happy chatting to the folk at the crag, however a few blank stares made me think he had trouble understanding the Glesgae!
In reply to Lobby Dosser: he led it? And rhapsody, any news?
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: keep an eye out: http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
He lead Requiem super smoothly in warm sunny low friction conditions. He placed two bits of gear from what passes as the ground (the ledge) at the bottom of the route, then climbed the crack placing four bits of gear, stopping to chalk-up occasionally. At the end of the crack he spent a few minutes shaking-out, complaining of being pumped but didn't ever look anything but solid. He then place three further bits of gear one just at his feet and the two final bits including (presumably) the famous RP and continued to the top in fine style.
After a 5 or 10 minute break he worked the Rhapsody section on top rope but I didn't pay much attention to his progress here but I did notice he was hanging around on the rope so I suspect there wasn't a clean link-up of that section this time.
I boulder at Dumby quite a bit and if conditions on the boulders were reflected on the route then conditions were far from ideal with holds feeling pretty slippy in comparison to what they can feel like.
He lead Requiem super smoothly in warm sunny low friction conditions. He placed two bits of gear from what passes as the ground (the ledge) at the bottom of the route, then climbed the crack placing four bits of gear, stopping to chalk-up occasionally. At the end of the crack he spent a few minutes shaking-out, complaining of being pumped but didn't ever look anything but solid. He then place three further bits of gear one just at his feet and the two final bits including (presumably) the famous RP and continued to the top in fine style.
After a 5 or 10 minute break he worked the Rhapsody section on top rope but I didn't pay much attention to his progress here but I did notice he was hanging around on the rope so I suspect there wasn't a clean link-up of that section this time.
I boulder at Dumby quite a bit and if conditions on the boulders were reflected on the route then conditions were far from ideal with holds feeling pretty slippy in comparison to what they can feel like.
In reply to JLS:
I've uploaded a photo to my gallery. and hope post a link to more photos tomorrow morning.
I've uploaded a photo to my gallery. and hope post a link to more photos tomorrow morning.
In reply to JLS: thanks mate
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
Photo now up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=86408
Photo now up...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=86408
In reply to JLS: Nice. Be better if you cropped out the paparazzi though!
In reply to Chris F:
More pictures (for download) here...
Lo Res (1mb zip file) -
http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/trotter%20lo...
Hi Res (48mb zip file) -
http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/trotter%20hi...
More pictures (for download) here...
Lo Res (1mb zip file) -
http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/trotter%20lo...
Hi Res (48mb zip file) -
http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/trotter%20hi...
In reply to JLS: Cheers, Will look at home, IT Dept don't like it!
In reply to Flatlander:
Yeah, my arranged climbing partner emailed with some lame excuse but that's ok, I was quite happy to spend time on my bouldering projects.
Yeah, my arranged climbing partner emailed with some lame excuse but that's ok, I was quite happy to spend time on my bouldering projects.
In reply to JLS:
you were bouldering with the dosser that started this thread - in case you didn't figure it out ....
you were bouldering with the dosser that started this thread - in case you didn't figure it out ....
In reply to Lobby Dosser: News report now up. I changed the thread title to make it a bit more clear.
Great report from you and JLS - thanks.
NEWS REPORT: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=05&year=2008#n44233
Jack
Great report from you and JLS - thanks.
NEWS REPORT: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=05&year=2008#n44233
Jack
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
>"Looks a bit slabby. Is that not a bit tilted?!"
Yeah, that's the benefit of the new Dumby articulated competition wall. We'll steepen it up a bit for the English coming on Thursday.
Free Scotland
>"Looks a bit slabby. Is that not a bit tilted?!"
Yeah, that's the benefit of the new Dumby articulated competition wall. We'll steepen it up a bit for the English coming on Thursday.
Free Scotland
In reply to JLS: Anyone know what the rough top-rope French grade is for Reqiuem?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Cheers, just need to get my sport grade up a few (or a lot) of notches, then I can give it a headpoint!
Aye right......
Aye right......
In reply to Lobby Dosser: Good luck Sonny, E11 is one of my favourite films, and an awesome climb, also i hear James Pearson is heading up there for a go..... i hope he kicks its arse. (bloody young 'uns)
In reply to JLS:
And remove the giant blue umbrella from above the route as well, presumably? You're not fooling anyone that that's a real Scottish sky ....
> Yeah, that's the benefit of the new Dumby articulated competition wall. We'll steepen it up a bit for the English coming on Thursday.
And remove the giant blue umbrella from above the route as well, presumably? You're not fooling anyone that that's a real Scottish sky ....
In reply to ALL:
Who is your money on then?
Sonny Trotter? James Pearson? John Dunne(?) or even a wild card entry from Steve McClure.
Sonny Trotter seems concerned that he is to heavy for the falls that would probably be involved....he is prob 2 stone heavier than Dave MacLeod was at the time.
Who is your money on then?
Sonny Trotter? James Pearson? John Dunne(?) or even a wild card entry from Steve McClure.
Sonny Trotter seems concerned that he is to heavy for the falls that would probably be involved....he is prob 2 stone heavier than Dave MacLeod was at the time.
In reply to Hay:
I think I'd really like to see John Dunne get the tick. Would give the his detractors something to think about and be especially funny if he makes some comment about the grade being around E9!
Trotter is looking good though.
I think I'd really like to see John Dunne get the tick. Would give the his detractors something to think about and be especially funny if he makes some comment about the grade being around E9!
Trotter is looking good though.
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
Dunne did make an early repeat of Requiem, so he's got experience on the wall...
Dunne did make an early repeat of Requiem, so he's got experience on the wall...
In reply to Hay:
TBH I think if both ST and JP have the weather right and stay injury free, it's only a matter of time for them to become the 2nd and 3rd ascentionists.
TBH I think if both ST and JP have the weather right and stay injury free, it's only a matter of time for them to become the 2nd and 3rd ascentionists.
In reply to 220bpm: dunno about that... was watching someone working Rhapsody last night and they where having what looked like a mare to me.. and that was on a top rope (white t-shirt, del boy trotter?) and someone else working Requiem
the photos dont do the climbs justice, id recommend the wee pier next to morrisons for a stupendous vantage point in the evening sun.
the photos dont do the climbs justice, id recommend the wee pier next to morrisons for a stupendous vantage point in the evening sun.
In reply to Lobby Dosser:
Good to see these guys trying each other routes.
I do hope some prat from these shores doesn't embarrass themselves on their blog with a poor parody of Sonny's vernacular....agian.
> Sonny Trotter is in town and seems really fired up to climb Rhapsody.
>
>
Good to see these guys trying each other routes.
I do hope some prat from these shores doesn't embarrass themselves on their blog with a poor parody of Sonny's vernacular....agian.
In reply to Erik B:
I really hope Del boy sees it off, but conditions are not exaactly ideal are they at the mo, you know what the friction is like there when it's warm, igneous basalt slopes in the sun ....eeek!
I really hope Del boy sees it off, but conditions are not exaactly ideal are they at the mo, you know what the friction is like there when it's warm, igneous basalt slopes in the sun ....eeek!
In reply to Lobby Dosser: There's a report on yesterday's action on the website now complete with a review of UKC and a mention for the spectators.
http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php
http://www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php
In reply to Lobby Dosser: When are John Dunn, Steve and JP arriving at the crag?
If you were a bookie what odds would you give for each of them?
If you were a bookie what odds would you give for each of them?
In reply to Lemony:
ST speaking about UKC:
"In Canada we have a few blogs and websites for the community, but unfortunately, more often than not the threads quickly turn to rubbish."
yeah that never happens on here ;p
ST speaking about UKC:
"In Canada we have a few blogs and websites for the community, but unfortunately, more often than not the threads quickly turn to rubbish."
yeah that never happens on here ;p
In reply to Red Rover:
>When are John Dunn, Steve and JP arriving at the crag? If you were a bookie what odds would you give for each of them?
It would be great to see ANYBODY get up it.
I hope Trotter is successful in the short time scale he has to get get it done.
I was very pleased to see he got up Requiem yesterday- it's a fantastic line. How many ascents is that Requiem has had now? 6?
Davie
>When are John Dunn, Steve and JP arriving at the crag? If you were a bookie what odds would you give for each of them?
It would be great to see ANYBODY get up it.
I hope Trotter is successful in the short time scale he has to get get it done.
I was very pleased to see he got up Requiem yesterday- it's a fantastic line. How many ascents is that Requiem has had now? 6?
Davie
In reply to Conquistador of the usless: aye, I hope del boy does do it too, I like his patter and the fact hes travelled half way across the world twice now to try it. I think the evening is perfect just now, the wind was chilly coming in from the firth, I presume this pattern will continue..
Im thinking maybe the 2 folk last night where the english loons?
hotaches should setup a camera at the morrisons pier to get some perspective, magnificent view looking across the watter showing the mighty Dun, castle and cliff with the evening sun lighting up the routes and their features
Im thinking maybe the 2 folk last night where the english loons?
hotaches should setup a camera at the morrisons pier to get some perspective, magnificent view looking across the watter showing the mighty Dun, castle and cliff with the evening sun lighting up the routes and their features
In reply to Red Rover: According to the film crew Big John and JP are arriving on Thursday.
In reply to Wee Davie:
Davie Boy, sorry about yer night oot but I got stuck at work. I heard it was a cracker though!
Davie Boy, sorry about yer night oot but I got stuck at work. I heard it was a cracker though!
In reply to Erik B:
nope that was the Canucks.
Saw a couple of jakies over the other side of the river - i didnae realise it was your good self !
nope that was the Canucks.
Saw a couple of jakies over the other side of the river - i didnae realise it was your good self !
In reply to Lobby Dosser:
Just read his blog and he seems like a genuinely nice and, errm, genuine guy. Hope they have a good time in the UK (although, of course, Requiem ain't bad for a start...).
Just read his blog and he seems like a genuinely nice and, errm, genuine guy. Hope they have a good time in the UK (although, of course, Requiem ain't bad for a start...).
In reply to Lemony:
What does he mean on his site by E8 and "full value"?
What does he mean on his site by E8 and "full value"?
In reply to Lobby Dosser:
Incredible, for a climber of my lowly ability it is scarcely possible to even comprehend how difficult such a route must be. It's a striking line, too.
I await developments with interest.
Incredible, for a climber of my lowly ability it is scarcely possible to even comprehend how difficult such a route must be. It's a striking line, too.
I await developments with interest.
In reply to Hay:
And how much lighter do you think he is than Dunne?
And how much lighter do you think he is than Dunne?
In reply to JLS: You going to Dumby tommorrow/Fri/Weekend? Keep us up to date with everything if you do? Would be fab being over there watching!
In reply to lasonj:
>"You going to Dumby tommorrow/Fri/Weekend?"
Plan to be there tomorrow but not sure there after. As much as I love Dumby I think three times a week is just about enough!
There was no action on the big wall tonight. As I arrived young Ben Litster who's also working on Requiem was just leaving after a shunt session on it. In fact the most excitement at Dumby tonight was me falling a couple of metres onto the last bolt on Abstract Art, a route with the weighty grade of F6c.
>"You going to Dumby tommorrow/Fri/Weekend?"
Plan to be there tomorrow but not sure there after. As much as I love Dumby I think three times a week is just about enough!
There was no action on the big wall tonight. As I arrived young Ben Litster who's also working on Requiem was just leaving after a shunt session on it. In fact the most excitement at Dumby tonight was me falling a couple of metres onto the last bolt on Abstract Art, a route with the weighty grade of F6c.
Watching this with fascination. Go Sonny!
In reply to JLS: So, we'll not be seeing any clips of you on Committed2 then, haha!
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Must admit I thought he'd been looking at another UKC....
Also best of luck to all at Dumby.
> (In reply to Lemony)
>
> ST speaking about UKC:
>
> "In Canada we have a few blogs and websites for the community, but unfortunately, more often than not the threads quickly turn to rubbish."
>
> yeah that never happens on here ;p
>
> ST speaking about UKC:
>
> "In Canada we have a few blogs and websites for the community, but unfortunately, more often than not the threads quickly turn to rubbish."
>
> yeah that never happens on here ;p
Must admit I thought he'd been looking at another UKC....
Also best of luck to all at Dumby.
In reply to Ridge pushing in..:
You'll find that people have a whole range of perceptions about UKC! Each one unique.
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
> [...]
>
> Must admit I thought he'd been looking at another UKC....
> [...]
>
> Must admit I thought he'd been looking at another UKC....
You'll find that people have a whole range of perceptions about UKC! Each one unique.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: And all those who disagree with mine are wrong! Who wants to argue about it?
In reply to Ridge pushing in..:
ST has an entertaining blog. Although his mate Cory's driving style appears not to change much, regardless of which continent he's on...
ST has an entertaining blog. Although his mate Cory's driving style appears not to change much, regardless of which continent he's on...
In reply to Lobby Dosser: Re: however a few blank stares made me think he had trouble understanding the Glesgae!
Well he wouldn't be the only one; and he'd certainly have trouble understanding Glaswegian, as do most of us who are 'from' the U.K.
Well he wouldn't be the only one; and he'd certainly have trouble understanding Glaswegian, as do most of us who are 'from' the U.K.
In reply to lasonj:
Indeed. I reckon Bill Oddie should have a Trotterwatch series.
> Would be fab being over there watching!
Indeed. I reckon Bill Oddie should have a Trotterwatch series.
In reply to atlantis:
I'd be a bit wary of using the 7th entry down in the Dundonian section.... I can see potential for an unfortunate mis-understanding....
Lex
> (In reply to Lobby Dosser)
>
> This may help
>
> http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Glasweigen
>
> This may help
>
> http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Glasweigen
I'd be a bit wary of using the 7th entry down in the Dundonian section.... I can see potential for an unfortunate mis-understanding....
Lex
In reply to lex: Yep, that one should be eliminated for sure.
In reply to lex:
> I'd be a bit wary of using the 7th entry down in the Dundonian section.... I can see potential for an unfortunate mis-understanding....
>
> Lex
In my experience it's usually prefixed with "You Yah!" as a term of endearment.>
> Lex
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
"you know what the friction is like there when it's warm"
Has it not been quite cool, dry and breezy lately? Perfect conditions I would have thought.
> (In reply to Erik B)
"you know what the friction is like there when it's warm"
Has it not been quite cool, dry and breezy lately? Perfect conditions I would have thought.
In reply to Wry Gob:
Ayberdeen might be Baltic but we are having shorts and T shirt weather down here in the Costa del Weeg.
Davie
Ayberdeen might be Baltic but we are having shorts and T shirt weather down here in the Costa del Weeg.
Davie
In reply to Wry Gob:
>"Has it not been quite cool, dry and breezy lately? Perfect conditions I would have thought."
It's actually been feeling very warm down at Dumby and the breeze has been coming from the East hence the crag is on the sheltered lee side. It's forecast to be cooler today and is overcast in Glasgow as I type so should be better today but it could still be doing with a westerly breeze.
The friction has been far from the best recently.
>"Has it not been quite cool, dry and breezy lately? Perfect conditions I would have thought."
It's actually been feeling very warm down at Dumby and the breeze has been coming from the East hence the crag is on the sheltered lee side. It's forecast to be cooler today and is overcast in Glasgow as I type so should be better today but it could still be doing with a westerly breeze.
The friction has been far from the best recently.
I was down at Dumby today and saw a guy from Llanberis called Pete onsight Chemin De Fer (E5) - seems like all strong guys are converging on West Glasgow at once.
In reply to Brendan: Well, another nice evening at Dumby.
Sonnie said he linked it this morning twice, but was struggling a bit this afternoon in the warmth. I think it's probably going to go, just needs the skin and wether!
A no-show from the Dunne/Pearson combo though.....
Sonnie said he linked it this morning twice, but was struggling a bit this afternoon in the warmth. I think it's probably going to go, just needs the skin and wether!
A no-show from the Dunne/Pearson combo though.....
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
>"A no-show from the Dunne/Pearson combo though....."
A minor domestic emergency, apparently.
>"A no-show from the Dunne/Pearson combo though....."
A minor domestic emergency, apparently.
In reply to Lobby Dosser:
The man's got taste http://www.sonnietrotter.com/gallery.php?g2_itemId=858&g2_page=2
The man's got taste http://www.sonnietrotter.com/gallery.php?g2_itemId=858&g2_page=2
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