In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
He lead Requiem super smoothly in warm sunny low friction conditions. He placed two bits of gear from what passes as the ground (the ledge) at the bottom of the route, then climbed the crack placing four bits of gear, stopping to chalk-up occasionally. At the end of the crack he spent a few minutes shaking-out, complaining of being pumped but didn't ever look anything but solid. He then place three further bits of gear one just at his feet and the two final bits including (presumably) the famous RP and continued to the top in fine style.
After a 5 or 10 minute break he worked the Rhapsody section on top rope but I didn't pay much attention to his progress here but I did notice he was hanging around on the rope so I suspect there wasn't a clean link-up of that section this time.
I boulder at Dumby quite a bit and if conditions on the boulders were reflected on the route then conditions were far from ideal with holds feeling pretty slippy in comparison to what they can feel like.