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I think it'd be Foil for me... mainly because i always push my grade on the cromlech and the crag has a special atmosphere...
In reply to Wilbur: Trans-siberian - not enough hols though.
In reply to Wilbur:
Either Old Man of Hoy or Cuillin Ridge. The reasons I hope are obvious, long climbs in spectacular surroundings.
Either Old Man of Hoy or Cuillin Ridge. The reasons I hope are obvious, long climbs in spectacular surroundings.
In reply to Wilbur: Hahahaha, are we talking what we might be unable to do or what we might be able to ? In answer to the first its Right Wall, in answer to the second its Tophet Wall!
In reply to Wilbur:
id like to do the alpendurst on the Jegihorn
http://www.summitpost.org/route/284742/alpendurst.html
id like to do the alpendurst on the Jegihorn
http://www.summitpost.org/route/284742/alpendurst.html
In reply to Wilbur: it like to have a go at little chamonix, looks a nice multi pitch with good views. what are peoples thoughts on it?
In reply to Wilbur: Archangel - but I haven't got the balls just now. I've got everything else, I reckon...I'll just have to rely on one of those days coming along where you look up and go "yeah I can climb that" and then get to the good holds before you've noticed what's going on.
In reply to Wilbur:
Lord of the Rings, above my grade at the moment, but not unrealistic, IF I pulled my finger out.
Lord of the Rings, above my grade at the moment, but not unrealistic, IF I pulled my finger out.
In reply to Daithi O Murachu:
that's suuuuuuch a nice route - one of my favourites!
OP: not sure I can pick out one this year - my ticklist is expanding at an alarming rate! A scramble that's right at the top of my list is the Traverse of the Remarkables.
that's suuuuuuch a nice route - one of my favourites!
OP: not sure I can pick out one this year - my ticklist is expanding at an alarming rate! A scramble that's right at the top of my list is the Traverse of the Remarkables.
In reply to Wilbur:
Bludger's Revelations! or The Old Man of Stoer, or, or, or.......
We'll need to get plotting!
Bludger's Revelations! or The Old Man of Stoer, or, or, or.......
We'll need to get plotting!
In reply to Wilbur Nor Nor,Tryfan.It has to be,this is what i think of in the dentist chair!ha ha.
In reply to Wilbur: Well, there has to be loads. But how about the Arrow, St Govans, with a good swell running but only light winds, and a brilliant blue sky......at about 11 in the morning, so enough time to take a break and then choose another few routes before a beer in the evening at about 9 with trashed fingers, wrists and arms, sharing a few tall stories with a few mates.
In reply to Wilbur:
The Strangler at Stanage.
Went to do it last year on a nice cold day and feeling psyched only to find it bird-banned.
The Strangler at Stanage.
Went to do it last year on a nice cold day and feeling psyched only to find it bird-banned.
In reply to Nenya: Strangler or Archangel...falling of the former would hurt less, but for me I think there's more chance of freezing mid crux and taking a whipper. Also, it's not got as much aesthetic appeal (though it's a bit 'quieter' which appeals). Can I do two routes this year please?
In reply to Wilbur:
VS climbing in a spectacular situation.
Climbing the route, from bottom to top is on a part of the experience. There is the scramble down the main cliff, the swim, setting up a Tyrolean, using the Tyrolean, the climb, the abseil (will your ropes reach?), the Tyrolean again and then the scramble out. That assumes everything goes well.
Get it done.
lsn
VS climbing in a spectacular situation.
Climbing the route, from bottom to top is on a part of the experience. There is the scramble down the main cliff, the swim, setting up a Tyrolean, using the Tyrolean, the climb, the abseil (will your ropes reach?), the Tyrolean again and then the scramble out. That assumes everything goes well.
Get it done.
lsn
In reply to Wilbur: Ditto.
In reply to Wilbur: probably 'just a little tease' in glen nevis. Or 'Kelpie'
In reply to Wilbur:
"If you could do just one route this year what would it be?"
It would have to be the tourist route up the Ben with mrs J, mainly because she has that as a goal following a pretty debilatating illness and I'd really like to see her succeed.
"If you could do just one route this year what would it be?"
It would have to be the tourist route up the Ben with mrs J, mainly because she has that as a goal following a pretty debilatating illness and I'd really like to see her succeed.
In reply to Wilbur: A new one!
In reply to MattG:
I've been dreaming about the Peuterey Ridge on Mont Blanc since I was 13... I'm afraid that, this year, I expect to go on dreaming.
I've been dreaming about the Peuterey Ridge on Mont Blanc since I was 13... I'm afraid that, this year, I expect to go on dreaming.
In reply to peewee2008:
It's OK, Corvus along the road is also Good at VD. A few grades harder but Creagh Dhu Wall Tremadog is miles better
> (In reply to Wilbur) it like to have a go at little chamonix, looks a nice multi pitch with good views. what are peoples thoughts on it?
It's OK, Corvus along the road is also Good at VD. A few grades harder but Creagh Dhu Wall Tremadog is miles better
In reply to Wilbur: the Citadel.
In reply to Wilbur:
Easy it would have to be - Inaccessible Pinnacle via Window Buttress, sor the simple reason that we got driven of the top due to poor weather the first time and so it would be nice to finish what we set out to do.
Easy it would have to be - Inaccessible Pinnacle via Window Buttress, sor the simple reason that we got driven of the top due to poor weather the first time and so it would be nice to finish what we set out to do.
In reply to staceyjg:
Dream would be on my list to but not for this year it'll be a good few years before i'm ready for that one!
Dream would be on my list to but not for this year it'll be a good few years before i'm ready for that one!
In reply to Wilbur:
Supercoloir - Mont Blanc du Tacul.
I apparently got banjaxed last year and told Thierry Renault I would lead him up it and he could come climbing anytime he wanted with me and I would show him how.
THe shame the shame
Supercoloir - Mont Blanc du Tacul.
I apparently got banjaxed last year and told Thierry Renault I would lead him up it and he could come climbing anytime he wanted with me and I would show him how.
THe shame the shame
In reply to Nevis-the-cat:
oh dear, got some training to do then young man. off on the bike tomorrow?
oh dear, got some training to do then young man. off on the bike tomorrow?
In reply to Wilbur: on grit i think gaia is a route i would like to do.i just dont think i'm willing to risk my neck anymore.i've done stupid things before and as i've got older i just dont see the point anymore.i had a very near miss is november.that has dampened my desire to put my neck on the lineall for what?a bit of an ego trip.which is what most of these hard routes is about.
In reply to sutty:
No, biking Sunday, tomorrow is vehicle maintenance and then City.
When you coming to my batchelor pad for a sup of whisky?
No, biking Sunday, tomorrow is vehicle maintenance and then City.
When you coming to my batchelor pad for a sup of whisky?
In reply to sutty:
The "wife" is away. Over in Cheshire. I think she might come back orange, driving a BMW
The "wife" is away. Over in Cheshire. I think she might come back orange, driving a BMW
In reply to Wilbur:
I was on my way, back in 2006, to building up to both Knight's Move at Burbage North, but probably would have done Sunset Slab on my next visit to Froggatt, possibly via Hargreave's Original at Stanage.
Now, as I'm pretty sure I can't wear a normal sit-harness at the moment 'cos of post operative reasons, Sunset Slab would be the route I would be aiming for.
Hopefully I can get out to the crags this year, and at least take my rock shoes with me, and do some gentle scrambling and soloing.
So real target is anything, I said on a thread earlier this year that the Gangplank at Birchen would be out of my strength and ability, so something like that might be a first target, in post operative recovery mode.
I was on my way, back in 2006, to building up to both Knight's Move at Burbage North, but probably would have done Sunset Slab on my next visit to Froggatt, possibly via Hargreave's Original at Stanage.
Now, as I'm pretty sure I can't wear a normal sit-harness at the moment 'cos of post operative reasons, Sunset Slab would be the route I would be aiming for.
Hopefully I can get out to the crags this year, and at least take my rock shoes with me, and do some gentle scrambling and soloing.
So real target is anything, I said on a thread earlier this year that the Gangplank at Birchen would be out of my strength and ability, so something like that might be a first target, in post operative recovery mode.
In reply to Wilbur:
Doing the Supercanaletta on Fitzroy would definately obviate the need to do any other climbing this year.
However, as it is way to hard for me I'll settle for a greater number of easier/lesser routes.
Doing the Supercanaletta on Fitzroy would definately obviate the need to do any other climbing this year.
However, as it is way to hard for me I'll settle for a greater number of easier/lesser routes.
In reply to Wilbur:
The Long Reach.
Or Butterknife.
Or The Bullroar, Centurion or Minus One Direct.
Or The Mousetrap, Black Mamba or Goliath.
Or The Clean Sweep or The Needle.
Or Fionn Buttress.
Or Integrity or Shangri-la.
Or South Ridge Direct.
Or quite a lot of things!
(And that's just the Scottish summer list...)
PS Did I break the thread rules? :-/
The Long Reach.
Or Butterknife.
Or The Bullroar, Centurion or Minus One Direct.
Or The Mousetrap, Black Mamba or Goliath.
Or The Clean Sweep or The Needle.
Or Fionn Buttress.
Or Integrity or Shangri-la.
Or South Ridge Direct.
Or quite a lot of things!
(And that's just the Scottish summer list...)
PS Did I break the thread rules? :-/
In reply to Wilbur:
Lord
Of
The
Flies
No chance - I'm in the wrong country for a start - oh yes I should start climbing again.
The Ent
Lord
Of
The
Flies
No chance - I'm in the wrong country for a start - oh yes I should start climbing again.
The Ent
In reply to peewee2008: It's a lovely climb, getting on to the slab after the niche is a little bit tricky but it's a good climb with a lovely view of Borrowdale. A nice route to do whatever grade you climb at just for the situation, Enjoy!
In reply to Wilbur: I'd like to do the original route up the Grand Dru but it's unlikely I'll get over to Chamonix this year.
Gonna have a bash at the Cuilin Ridge in June.
Gonna have a bash at the Cuilin Ridge in June.
In reply to Wilbur: Cassin Route on the Piz Badile. I am persuaded by a super-fit young friend that I can race up if he carries the gear. Sounds good to me - just a matter of getting out on the hill again.
In reply to petestack: My man has a cunning plan to dump gear at the foot of the N ridge and abseil back down that. I fancy getting him to carry boots, abseil down the S side and walk back. We shall see, but it spunds exciting and the one N face I have not done.
In reply to Jon Stewart: Just go for it man, if you can do the first moves you can do the whole lot!
Durrance Route on the Devils Tower in Wyoming, fantastic route.
In reply to Wilbur: 30 seconds over winterland widdop
In reply to lowersharpnose:
I'd second that. (Well I'd lead it too come to think of it!)
The first pitch (traverse) is 5a and difficult for both the leader or second, the rest about 4b/4c
> (In reply to Wilbur)
>
> VS climbing in a spectacular situation.
>
> Climbing the route, from bottom to top is on a part of the experience. There is the scramble down the main cliff, the swim, setting up a Tyrolean, using the Tyrolean, the climb, the abseil (will your ropes reach?), the Tyrolean again and then the scramble out. That assumes everything goes well.
>
> Get it done.
>
> VS climbing in a spectacular situation.
>
> Climbing the route, from bottom to top is on a part of the experience. There is the scramble down the main cliff, the swim, setting up a Tyrolean, using the Tyrolean, the climb, the abseil (will your ropes reach?), the Tyrolean again and then the scramble out. That assumes everything goes well.
>
> Get it done.
I'd second that. (Well I'd lead it too come to think of it!)
The first pitch (traverse) is 5a and difficult for both the leader or second, the rest about 4b/4c
>
> lsn
> lsn
In reply to Mooncat:
> (In reply to Wilbur)
>
> I've no desire to do anything except Squareface.
The walk is well worth it (see Classic Rock)>
> I've no desire to do anything except Squareface.
In reply to Wilbur: I was very close to saying Lord of the Flies but you didn't specify UK or Rock.
Overall I'd settle for Beyond Good and Evil and take the rest of the year off.
On rock there's no issue, it'd be The Nose and if we're talking anything in the UK, again the answer is obvious - a winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge.
Overall I'd settle for Beyond Good and Evil and take the rest of the year off.
On rock there's no issue, it'd be The Nose and if we're talking anything in the UK, again the answer is obvious - a winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge.
In reply to Wilbur:
Had this sort of conversation years ago with a group of Calder Valley based climbers in the pub after a winter wall session. The usual destinations came out - Wales, Scotland, The Alps, Cornwall etc but one lad looked up, his eyes glazed over and said:
"I'd really like to get up to Widdop this year"
Well - it was certainly achievable!
Had this sort of conversation years ago with a group of Calder Valley based climbers in the pub after a winter wall session. The usual destinations came out - Wales, Scotland, The Alps, Cornwall etc but one lad looked up, his eyes glazed over and said:
"I'd really like to get up to Widdop this year"
Well - it was certainly achievable!
In reply to Al Evans:
Tophet Wall is my must do for this year-if you need a partner get in touch.
> (In reply to Wilbur) Hahahaha, are we talking what we might be unable to do or what we might be able to ? In answer to the first its Right Wall, in answer to the second its Tophet Wall!
Tophet Wall is my must do for this year-if you need a partner get in touch.
In reply to Wilbur:
Having just recently dislocated my shoulder, anything cranky and overhanging this year would be a bonus.
Having just recently dislocated my shoulder, anything cranky and overhanging this year would be a bonus.
In reply to Wilbur:
I'd love to get back to Lundy and do A Widespread Ocean of Fear this year. Failing that, maybe Flashdance in the slate quarries or America at Carn Gowla.
I'd love to get back to Lundy and do A Widespread Ocean of Fear this year. Failing that, maybe Flashdance in the slate quarries or America at Carn Gowla.
In reply to Wilbur: Foil is amongst the best trad routes ive done: great line, perfect moves, perfect gear and a great setting. one of North Wales' best.
i think just one route is unfair, thats like asking someone to pick one film or one album - impossible. i think you need stuff for different moods so i'll go for a few:
Right Wall - a right of passage and a pre-requisite for LOTF
something on North Stack - possibly Blue Peter but, if i suddenly become really bold this year, The Cad
Poetry Pink - classic slate but see my comments on The Cad for why this may not get done nb: many claim PP is a pretty mild affair so may yet convince myself to get on this
The Minotaur - The Leap is just a very good place to climb and this looks very good
Anabolica - a Siurana classic: brilliant moves, incredible piece of rock and a glorious setting
I've Been a Bad Bad Boy - should have got this last year, utterly classic and an essential UK sport tick
Statement of Youth - if Bad Bad Boy and stories of Statement's quality are anything to go by then this will be a must-do once Bad Bad Boy is done
i hope everyone will be revisiting their post come Dec 09...
i think just one route is unfair, thats like asking someone to pick one film or one album - impossible. i think you need stuff for different moods so i'll go for a few:
Right Wall - a right of passage and a pre-requisite for LOTF
something on North Stack - possibly Blue Peter but, if i suddenly become really bold this year, The Cad
Poetry Pink - classic slate but see my comments on The Cad for why this may not get done nb: many claim PP is a pretty mild affair so may yet convince myself to get on this
The Minotaur - The Leap is just a very good place to climb and this looks very good
Anabolica - a Siurana classic: brilliant moves, incredible piece of rock and a glorious setting
I've Been a Bad Bad Boy - should have got this last year, utterly classic and an essential UK sport tick
Statement of Youth - if Bad Bad Boy and stories of Statement's quality are anything to go by then this will be a must-do once Bad Bad Boy is done
i hope everyone will be revisiting their post come Dec 09...
In reply to ksjs:
cool, am psyched for it!
It will be interesting to look back and see if i had the balls to do it!
> (In reply to Wilbur) Foil is amongst the best trad routes ive done: great line, perfect moves, perfect gear and a great setting. one of North Wales' best.
> i hope everyone will be revisiting their post come Dec 09...
cool, am psyched for it!
It will be interesting to look back and see if i had the balls to do it!
In reply to Wilbur: honestly, you dont need balls - its so well protected. im not a bold climber and i was very comfortable on this (from a gear point of view). i did though get anxious, i usually do on hyper-classic routes, i hate failing on them.
once youre into the crack proper, the climbing is quite sustained (i remember 2 tricky [for 6a] moves) and quite reachy in a few places (im 5'8 btw).
for my money Foil easily surpasses Cemetary Gates, Cenotaph Corner, Left Wall and Resurrection for quality. if Foil is at your limit, i doubt youll be able to hang about on it so you'll need a determined attitude - the gear is good and always nearby so keep trucking. enjoy...
once youre into the crack proper, the climbing is quite sustained (i remember 2 tricky [for 6a] moves) and quite reachy in a few places (im 5'8 btw).
for my money Foil easily surpasses Cemetary Gates, Cenotaph Corner, Left Wall and Resurrection for quality. if Foil is at your limit, i doubt youll be able to hang about on it so you'll need a determined attitude - the gear is good and always nearby so keep trucking. enjoy...
In reply to Wilbur: Resurrection is superb - the face climbing lower down is beautiful and the crack has some great moves. i opted for the easier left hand finish though the line proper seems to be the continuation crack which i plan to do this year.
overall, i didnt think it was much harder than Foil, the lower wall is a bit sparse on gear (what you do get is though very good) but its mainly 5b climbing on positive holds (the move im doing in the photograph i found quite tricky, probably the hardest before you reach the crack but youve got good gear beneath you). you then get a great rest before the crack. i found an 'urgent' approach helped with the crack but if youre cool about it, it should be relatively straightforward.
overall, i didnt think it was much harder than Foil, the lower wall is a bit sparse on gear (what you do get is though very good) but its mainly 5b climbing on positive holds (the move im doing in the photograph i found quite tricky, probably the hardest before you reach the crack but youve got good gear beneath you). you then get a great rest before the crack. i found an 'urgent' approach helped with the crack but if youre cool about it, it should be relatively straightforward.
In reply to jkarran:
now that IS sad, will be in fine condition now with cornices collapsing on you form melting snow
now that IS sad, will be in fine condition now with cornices collapsing on you form melting snow
In reply to sutty:
Sad maybe but getting it done would require some exciting changes in my life. The fitness acquired/required would also open up a whole world of new routes/problems.
...that and the moves are ace
jk
Sad maybe but getting it done would require some exciting changes in my life. The fitness acquired/required would also open up a whole world of new routes/problems.
...that and the moves are ace
jk
In reply to andy farnell: Predator(Malham) for me (If it had to be one route for the whole year). I'd settle for several 8's below this grade but, for one route this would have to be it.
Chers
Tim
Chers
Tim
In reply to Wilbur: Gaia..... On Lead, not Top!
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