In reply to Stevie Haston:
I guess I fall just short of your mark at E1/2ish, 6/7ish, here's my take on it.
8 as a benchmark hard grade is easy, it can't be that hard because I'm not a million miles away and I aspire to punterdom. E5 is a million miles away for me. I always viewed IV as loosely VS, V as HVS and so on. This makes VIII E3 and would just about fit your concerns.
I have tried to analyse why I climb "better" in winter than in summer. It boils down to 3 factors
1 I enjoy it more
2 less finger strength required/ more cardio rather than strength based
3 Joe average percieves winter climbing to be much harder than it actually is. (without factoring in commitment)
Continental mixed is much technically harder, if M7 is equivalent to 8, which I believe is the consensus. I have lost count of how high the M grades go.
Equipment, technique and training are centred towards continental and north american climbing, this skews their benefit towards M style climbing. Scottish Winter climbing is a minority sport compared to this big bucks game.
If we wish to compete (I hold no desire to) with continentals/americans then our climbers would benefit from some bolted M style crags and drytool venues (quack quack). I think you wrote an article many years ago slating the lack of specific training in uk winter activists. Since then training has improved, kit improved in some ways but no specific high grade scottish mixed kit has been developed, just misused icefall/continental kit. I think the Alien axes with all their faults were the last tool specifically designed for scottish climbing.
Can you find me a enjoyable, safe, overgraded 8 to try so I can join "the club" and pretend to have played with the big boys?