This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (215) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=456851
Miles - A little improvement sounds good, you’ve still some time before July
Murd - I’m sorry to hear you got spanked on grit. I might get my first proper experience of grit this year and I’ve heard from several people that it takes some time to get used too.
Andy - Take care. I hope your blisters disappear.
Tonyb -
Grubes - What a hectic day on Saturday. Hope things go better next time.
Fimm - 3 years in Edinburgh but not up Arthur’s Seat. That’s a crime!
Sankey - Sounds like your making the best of your work trip.
Karen87 - Enjoy the Cuttings.
The New NickB - Hope you enjoyed a relaxing week.
IanRUK - Congratulations! And good luck in the Mountain Running Championship. I’m sure everyone in Fit Club will be wishing you well.
Eagle River - 7b circuit first go sounds really promising, even if it’s soft it’s got to help towards your STG.
Stone Donkey - Good work ticking 4 VSs.
Steve John B - Is the calf better now?
Mattrm - Climbing on new rock types is always fun.
Thickhead - I don’t blame you. If I was in the UK I’d rather be in the lakes than watching the wedding.
JSA - Good work towards your STG goal. It’s a pretty amazing task.
Humperdink - Good mileage.
Richardh - I think I’m in the same boat as you. I also have a 7b+ project but is just so painful on the fingers I can’t have many goes on it.
Jeriqo - Eating, drinking and a walk up Siabod: sounds like the perfect rest.
Liam M - Sorry to hear the race didn’t go well. You runners have it tough, at least with climbing we can choose our performance days.
Leon - You didn’t go sport climbing after doing 4x4s did you? That would leave anyone exhausted.
Mark Torrence - I hope the motivation comes back in your third taper week.
Seankenny - Interesting report with some highs and lows. Well done on the white problem at Isatis though.
Kevster - Good effort on your 7b redpoint.
Niels - Well done on the V6, it went really quickly.
Daniel Heath - That’s what we want to see in FitClub. Good going.
Chris05 - Looks like a fun week.
Sonya Mc - I like the sound of your 6b project and I’m sure you’ll crack it. You can do all the moves that’s the first battle won.
Plexiglass_nick - Good going ticking 7c. Congratulations.
Catt - Well done in ticking 7a+ so quickly.
Viking - Enjoy Font and good luck with the V6 goal.
Shauna - I hope the psyche comes back soon.
Petestack - Great result in The Fling. Well done.
Biscuit - I hope the few days off helped.
Curious Yellow - That looks like it will have done your 7b+ and 7c pyramids a lot of good.
AJM - So what did you do in France?
JimmyKay - So close on three occasions!
Goonie - Good effort on Thread Flintstone. I hope you get the 7c soon.
Andy Farnell - It’s true. Not every week can be a good one.
Repeat posters 40
Absentees
Nexonen
Ayuplas
Agibb
Mike
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (215) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=456851
Miles - A little improvement sounds good, you’ve still some time before July
Murd - I’m sorry to hear you got spanked on grit. I might get my first proper experience of grit this year and I’ve heard from several people that it takes some time to get used too.
Andy - Take care. I hope your blisters disappear.
Tonyb -
Grubes - What a hectic day on Saturday. Hope things go better next time.
Fimm - 3 years in Edinburgh but not up Arthur’s Seat. That’s a crime!
Sankey - Sounds like your making the best of your work trip.
Karen87 - Enjoy the Cuttings.
The New NickB - Hope you enjoyed a relaxing week.
IanRUK - Congratulations! And good luck in the Mountain Running Championship. I’m sure everyone in Fit Club will be wishing you well.
Eagle River - 7b circuit first go sounds really promising, even if it’s soft it’s got to help towards your STG.
Stone Donkey - Good work ticking 4 VSs.
Steve John B - Is the calf better now?
Mattrm - Climbing on new rock types is always fun.
Thickhead - I don’t blame you. If I was in the UK I’d rather be in the lakes than watching the wedding.
JSA - Good work towards your STG goal. It’s a pretty amazing task.
Humperdink - Good mileage.
Richardh - I think I’m in the same boat as you. I also have a 7b+ project but is just so painful on the fingers I can’t have many goes on it.
Jeriqo - Eating, drinking and a walk up Siabod: sounds like the perfect rest.
Liam M - Sorry to hear the race didn’t go well. You runners have it tough, at least with climbing we can choose our performance days.
Leon - You didn’t go sport climbing after doing 4x4s did you? That would leave anyone exhausted.
Mark Torrence - I hope the motivation comes back in your third taper week.
Seankenny - Interesting report with some highs and lows. Well done on the white problem at Isatis though.
Kevster - Good effort on your 7b redpoint.
Niels - Well done on the V6, it went really quickly.
Daniel Heath - That’s what we want to see in FitClub. Good going.
Chris05 - Looks like a fun week.
Sonya Mc - I like the sound of your 6b project and I’m sure you’ll crack it. You can do all the moves that’s the first battle won.
Plexiglass_nick - Good going ticking 7c. Congratulations.
Catt - Well done in ticking 7a+ so quickly.
Viking - Enjoy Font and good luck with the V6 goal.
Shauna - I hope the psyche comes back soon.
Petestack - Great result in The Fling. Well done.
Biscuit - I hope the few days off helped.
Curious Yellow - That looks like it will have done your 7b+ and 7c pyramids a lot of good.
AJM - So what did you do in France?
JimmyKay - So close on three occasions!
Goonie - Good effort on Thread Flintstone. I hope you get the 7c soon.
Andy Farnell - It’s true. Not every week can be a good one.
Repeat posters 40
Absentees
Nexonen
Ayuplas
Agibb
Mike
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. Seen your email too - thanks for that!
So much to report........
April 17th - first day at Orgon. Did a 4+, 5 and 5+ to warm up, but also got spanked by a very thin and techy 6a+. Moved to a different sector and flashed a gret 6a and onsighted a cool 6a+.
April 18th - Orgon again. Nasty polished 5+ to warm up, followed by a massive siesta since it was so hot - poor sector choice. Nevertheless, onsighted a brill 6a+ and 6b when the shade arrived. This was all on grey slabs, and felt quite steady given how hard grey slab climbing often is!
April 19th - Mont Gaussier. Flashed a not-so-nice 6a+ to warm up. Then flashed a 6b. Flailed incompetently on a 6c. Then, in a reversal of fortune flashed a 7a. YYFY! First 7a flash, upped my flash grade in a stroke from 6c to 7a. Watched Audrey redpoint and Adrian flash an awesome looking 7b+ in great style, very inspiring!
April 20th - Mont Gaussier. Lowered off a low 6a+ because it was a bit loose and the holds felt a bit impermenant. Had a few goes on Appel de la Foret, which is a mega fun 6c with big moves on big jugs. High up crux meant I couldn't finish it though, powered out.
April 21st - rest
April 22nd - Mouries. 6a to warm up, then a 6b flash which was nails - unrelentingly sustained and thin, demanding loads of foot focus. Psyched. Had a good go at onsighting a 6c+, and an even better go at flashing a 7a, but no dice on either - didn't have enough juice left after the 7a attempt to redpoint the (brilliant) 6c+ either.
April 23rd - Orgon Canal, since it was raining. Hard to get psyched, but ended up having a go at Sherman Contest, a 7a+/b sort of thing, massive jugs to pull on but awful steep with a crux right at the top. Bolt to bolted it easily (the crux is maybe V2 at most?) and made the three crucial links - ground to first rest, first rest to second rest, then second rest through the crux to the top.
April 24th - Buoux. Felt trashed, so had a go at TCF (7a) but nowhere close to a tick.
April 25th - Back to Orgon Canal in the morning. Bolt to bolt on Sherman Contest again, then 3 redpoint goes. I could recover pump at the jugs well, which was good, but didn't have the power left in the tank for the crux. Made slow but steady progress each time, but no tick. Still, the fitness training undoubtedly did me some good, and it was a fun route to try and to fall from!
April 26th - rest and move to Thaurac
April 27th - Thaurac. Onsighted a bunch of routes to 6a+. Tried a 6c too, but climbed it too directly, made it too hard, and so dogged it. Adrian told me if I had thought it were 6b I'd have gone the right way without thinking, and had essentially failed because I'd expected it to be hard and so made it so.....
April 28th - Hortus. Got on the wrong route, got depsyched, didn't really climb. Brilliant crag if you get on the right stuff (its a big multipitch sport/trad venue, for those who've never heard of it) but I didn't, so didn't enjoy it so much.
April 29th - Cantobre. What a crag! 5+, 6a+ and 2 6c flashes. One of those was smoothly redpointed by agibb of this parish too as his first 6c redpoint. Did however get spanked by a 7a+, which revealed a weakness for powerful moves still. Audrey flashed the crag classic Turbulence (7b+) which looked amazing - must do this route!
April 30th - Thaurac. Couple of 5+s and a 6b flash, which felt quite steady - short and cruxy.
May 1st - idiots playing dance music until 7am the night before made for a rest day and a move to Le Rozier
May 2nd - Boffi. What a crag! 5+ flash, then 6a+, 6b+ and 6c onsight. Dithered for a bit about whether to try anything else, and decided to get on Duriff Fifi, and promptly onsighted it. First 6c+ onsight - YYFY!.
May 3rd - flat car battery meant another unplanned rest day. Also meant no radio all the way home since it triggered the radio's security code when the battery was replaced.
May 4th - back to Le Boffi. 5+, 6a and 6b flashes. Then got on Les Regles de l'art (6c) and got it onsight, perhaps the best route I did all trip. Didn't do anything else - somehow felt that I'd got what I wanted - a long sustained 6c climbed smoothly onsight with no panics, no worries about falls, or worrying about being pumped (I was pumped, but manageably so), or whatever.
May 5th - Le Jonte. Fantastc multipitch venue. Did a cracking 4-pitch 5+ on glorious sunshine
That was it - drove to Lyon on the 5th, then dropped my missus off and had the long drive back on the 6th with nothing but engine noise and iPhone speakers to keep me company Have done some core and antagonists today and going to start a fingerboard session later.
So, the summarised version I think is
+ First 7a flash and 6c+ onsight
+ Lots more 6cs done comparatively. In general I think I've become a lot more competant at onsighting (either that or Boffi is just soft and very onsight friendly?)
- Highlighted a lack of power recovery (on Appel de la Foret and Sherman Contest the reason for the lack of a tick was being unable to recover power for high cruxes) and of raw power (on the 7a+ at Cantobre)
+ Lots of new venues tried and new places that I'd never have been if I hadn't been on Adrian's trip
- The downside of this is that I really think if I'd spent all 3 weeks around Boffi/Jonte I'd have got a 7a onsight out of it and some harder redpoints too. Horses for courses I guess.
+ Already planning a rematch with Boffi/Jonte/Tarn come September/October!
+ projects for return trip - more 6c/+ onsights at Boffi etc, Mac du Mal at Damned, maybe even Damned itself, with long term goals for that area of Turbulence and Sac a Glue
Indoor/training priorities
<STG> - pre-midsummer
<MTG> - 2011
<LTG>
<BHAG>
New focuses now are on strength/power indoors, plus trying to finish off the pyramids and get the trad in. Am also logging weight and body fat with the aim of trying to be more healthy and move towards losing some of the body fat - for the moment just a focus, but I might move to a more specific Racing-Weight-quick-start-esque program once life quietens down again come June...
Cheers Tony. Seen your email too - thanks for that!
> AJM - So what did you do in France?
So much to report........
April 17th - first day at Orgon. Did a 4+, 5 and 5+ to warm up, but also got spanked by a very thin and techy 6a+. Moved to a different sector and flashed a gret 6a and onsighted a cool 6a+.
April 18th - Orgon again. Nasty polished 5+ to warm up, followed by a massive siesta since it was so hot - poor sector choice. Nevertheless, onsighted a brill 6a+ and 6b when the shade arrived. This was all on grey slabs, and felt quite steady given how hard grey slab climbing often is!
April 19th - Mont Gaussier. Flashed a not-so-nice 6a+ to warm up. Then flashed a 6b. Flailed incompetently on a 6c. Then, in a reversal of fortune flashed a 7a. YYFY! First 7a flash, upped my flash grade in a stroke from 6c to 7a. Watched Audrey redpoint and Adrian flash an awesome looking 7b+ in great style, very inspiring!
April 20th - Mont Gaussier. Lowered off a low 6a+ because it was a bit loose and the holds felt a bit impermenant. Had a few goes on Appel de la Foret, which is a mega fun 6c with big moves on big jugs. High up crux meant I couldn't finish it though, powered out.
April 21st - rest
April 22nd - Mouries. 6a to warm up, then a 6b flash which was nails - unrelentingly sustained and thin, demanding loads of foot focus. Psyched. Had a good go at onsighting a 6c+, and an even better go at flashing a 7a, but no dice on either - didn't have enough juice left after the 7a attempt to redpoint the (brilliant) 6c+ either.
April 23rd - Orgon Canal, since it was raining. Hard to get psyched, but ended up having a go at Sherman Contest, a 7a+/b sort of thing, massive jugs to pull on but awful steep with a crux right at the top. Bolt to bolted it easily (the crux is maybe V2 at most?) and made the three crucial links - ground to first rest, first rest to second rest, then second rest through the crux to the top.
April 24th - Buoux. Felt trashed, so had a go at TCF (7a) but nowhere close to a tick.
April 25th - Back to Orgon Canal in the morning. Bolt to bolt on Sherman Contest again, then 3 redpoint goes. I could recover pump at the jugs well, which was good, but didn't have the power left in the tank for the crux. Made slow but steady progress each time, but no tick. Still, the fitness training undoubtedly did me some good, and it was a fun route to try and to fall from!
April 26th - rest and move to Thaurac
April 27th - Thaurac. Onsighted a bunch of routes to 6a+. Tried a 6c too, but climbed it too directly, made it too hard, and so dogged it. Adrian told me if I had thought it were 6b I'd have gone the right way without thinking, and had essentially failed because I'd expected it to be hard and so made it so.....
April 28th - Hortus. Got on the wrong route, got depsyched, didn't really climb. Brilliant crag if you get on the right stuff (its a big multipitch sport/trad venue, for those who've never heard of it) but I didn't, so didn't enjoy it so much.
April 29th - Cantobre. What a crag! 5+, 6a+ and 2 6c flashes. One of those was smoothly redpointed by agibb of this parish too as his first 6c redpoint. Did however get spanked by a 7a+, which revealed a weakness for powerful moves still. Audrey flashed the crag classic Turbulence (7b+) which looked amazing - must do this route!
April 30th - Thaurac. Couple of 5+s and a 6b flash, which felt quite steady - short and cruxy.
May 1st - idiots playing dance music until 7am the night before made for a rest day and a move to Le Rozier
May 2nd - Boffi. What a crag! 5+ flash, then 6a+, 6b+ and 6c onsight. Dithered for a bit about whether to try anything else, and decided to get on Duriff Fifi, and promptly onsighted it. First 6c+ onsight - YYFY!.
May 3rd - flat car battery meant another unplanned rest day. Also meant no radio all the way home since it triggered the radio's security code when the battery was replaced.
May 4th - back to Le Boffi. 5+, 6a and 6b flashes. Then got on Les Regles de l'art (6c) and got it onsight, perhaps the best route I did all trip. Didn't do anything else - somehow felt that I'd got what I wanted - a long sustained 6c climbed smoothly onsight with no panics, no worries about falls, or worrying about being pumped (I was pumped, but manageably so), or whatever.
May 5th - Le Jonte. Fantastc multipitch venue. Did a cracking 4-pitch 5+ on glorious sunshine
That was it - drove to Lyon on the 5th, then dropped my missus off and had the long drive back on the 6th with nothing but engine noise and iPhone speakers to keep me company Have done some core and antagonists today and going to start a fingerboard session later.
So, the summarised version I think is
+ First 7a flash and 6c+ onsight
+ Lots more 6cs done comparatively. In general I think I've become a lot more competant at onsighting (either that or Boffi is just soft and very onsight friendly?)
- Highlighted a lack of power recovery (on Appel de la Foret and Sherman Contest the reason for the lack of a tick was being unable to recover power for high cruxes) and of raw power (on the 7a+ at Cantobre)
+ Lots of new venues tried and new places that I'd never have been if I hadn't been on Adrian's trip
- The downside of this is that I really think if I'd spent all 3 weeks around Boffi/Jonte I'd have got a 7a onsight out of it and some harder redpoints too. Horses for courses I guess.
+ Already planning a rematch with Boffi/Jonte/Tarn come September/October!
+ projects for return trip - more 6c/+ onsights at Boffi etc, Mac du Mal at Damned, maybe even Damned itself, with long term goals for that area of Turbulence and Sac a Glue
Indoor/training priorities
- Strength/power training to complement outdoor endurance work
- Regular fingerboarding over the year
- Bike odometer record - 407km
- Rolling average weight/body fat - 78.2kg/16.7%
<STG> - pre-midsummer
- Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7a, 4/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
- Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape
<MTG> - 2011
- Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
- Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 3x 6c o/s, 5x 6c flash, 1x 6c+ o/s, 1x 7a flash)
- Actually do some DWS this year
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
New focuses now are on strength/power indoors, plus trying to finish off the pyramids and get the trad in. Am also logging weight and body fat with the aim of trying to be more healthy and move towards losing some of the body fat - for the moment just a focus, but I might move to a more specific Racing-Weight-quick-start-esque program once life quietens down again come June...
In reply to TonyB:
This week was all about the Sheffield half marathon which is now done! Running, particulary on road has never come easy so am pretty chuffed to have got round sub 2 hrs on a pretty hot day. Time to relax and get on with enjoying a summer of climbing, with the occasional non timed run and bike ride...
M: R: 9.7 miles
T: Foundry bouldering
W:
T: R: 4.5 miles
F:
S:
S: R:13.1 miles (sheffield half, 1:53:42)
STG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours) DONE!
MTG: Trad week in Snowdonia / Trip to Ecrins
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
This week was all about the Sheffield half marathon which is now done! Running, particulary on road has never come easy so am pretty chuffed to have got round sub 2 hrs on a pretty hot day. Time to relax and get on with enjoying a summer of climbing, with the occasional non timed run and bike ride...
M: R: 9.7 miles
T: Foundry bouldering
W:
T: R: 4.5 miles
F:
S:
S: R:13.1 miles (sheffield half, 1:53:42)
STG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours) DONE!
MTG: Trad week in Snowdonia / Trip to Ecrins
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks,
Another bad week.
Mon: -
Tue: -
Wed: Bouldering (Wall) Didn't get much done, mainly V6-8 repeats.
Thu: -
Fri: Weights - Benchpress and Curls, core work, (one-armed) pull ups.
Sat: -
Sun: Heading down to the wall later, was hoping to go to Almscliff today but it decided to rain, badly.
+ a small amount of Bouldering at home.
STG (Pre-Midsummer)
1x V7
1x V6 Flash
5x V6
F7B Outdoors
E# Lead/Solo
Get better at vertical things.
MTG (September)
1x V8
and easy F7c (Comedy?)
Get better at slabs.
More E# leads/solo's
Thanks,
Another bad week.
Mon: -
Tue: -
Wed: Bouldering (Wall) Didn't get much done, mainly V6-8 repeats.
Thu: -
Fri: Weights - Benchpress and Curls, core work, (one-armed) pull ups.
Sat: -
Sun: Heading down to the wall later, was hoping to go to Almscliff today but it decided to rain, badly.
+ a small amount of Bouldering at home.
STG (Pre-Midsummer)
1x V7
1x V6 Flash
5x V6
F7B Outdoors
E# Lead/Solo
Get better at vertical things.
MTG (September)
1x V8
and easy F7c (Comedy?)
Get better at slabs.
More E# leads/solo's
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony. Calf better, but both knees playing up. Need to get to the physio asap.
Mon-Sun: bog all really, apart from heel drops for my achilles.
Have at least lost a few pounds over the last month, down to 12 stone 3. Would like to get to 11 stone by the end of the year.
Mon-Sun: bog all really, apart from heel drops for my achilles.
Have at least lost a few pounds over the last month, down to 12 stone 3. Would like to get to 11 stone by the end of the year.
In reply to TonyB:
M-First E4 flash (as I mentioned last week)
T-
W-
T-Military fitness test
79 sit ups /2min
56 close arm press ups /2min
1.5mile run /8:33
F-Boulder session and lots of wide arm press ups
S-
S-
Taken a week avoiding climbing and trying to get back into the routine of work. However I should at least be fitting some fingerboard sessions in from now on.
Cheers,
Dan
M-First E4 flash (as I mentioned last week)
T-
W-
T-Military fitness test
79 sit ups /2min
56 close arm press ups /2min
1.5mile run /8:33
F-Boulder session and lots of wide arm press ups
S-
S-
Taken a week avoiding climbing and trying to get back into the routine of work. However I should at least be fitting some fingerboard sessions in from now on.
Cheers,
Dan
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. I would definitely have had more in last week had my shoes not crippled me.
This week, nothing special. Saturday I Went down to Yew Cogar did a 6b+ and worked a 7c. Found it a good way to gauge fitness in that I know I'm strog enough to do every move but not fit enough to link them as yet. The walk in and out was hellish(worse than I remember).
Same goals as last week but in addition I'll be lapping some routes at the wall just to work purely on stamina fitness.
Thanks Tony. I would definitely have had more in last week had my shoes not crippled me.
This week, nothing special. Saturday I Went down to Yew Cogar did a 6b+ and worked a 7c. Found it a good way to gauge fitness in that I know I'm strog enough to do every move but not fit enough to link them as yet. The walk in and out was hellish(worse than I remember).
Same goals as last week but in addition I'll be lapping some routes at the wall just to work purely on stamina fitness.
In reply to TonyB: Thanks, not been at the wall this week so havn't worked on my 6b (but I've been out a couple of times which has been far more fun!) And I've lost 0.7kg this week which is nice.
Mon - Driving home from Glen Shiel. Did 1/2 hr pilates later in the evening.
Tue - Climbing at local quarry. Led a 4, then a 4+ then clipsticked the draws into the 1st 2 bolts of the 6a+ I toproped last week. Toproped the crux then led the rest. Pulled the rope through and led it all cleanly. Eyed up a 6b to try and work on but no time today.
Wed - 3mile run. Average pace 8mins 34secs. Fastest run in ages, improving! 1st mile = 8mins 44secs, 2nd mile = 8mins 22 secs, 3rd mile = 8mins 36secs. Went back to quarry in the evening with RB but we were both tired and too cold to climb much. RB led a 4+, a 5+ and a 6a and I toproped the same, then we headed home, neither of us feeling enthusiastic.
RB has a double period of athletics at school on a Wed, so we've decided we'll climb out on Mondays rather than Wed as she's usually knackered on a Wed.
Thur - Bouldered for a couple of hours on my woody. Nailed a problem I'd been working on (havn't a clue of the grade but around V2) and close to getting the other one I'm working on.
Fri - 2hour brisk walk.
Sat - Hill run up a local Graham. Just under 6miles, but my Garmin went a bit wonky because I'd programmed my route into it, but veered off course several times and it doesn't seem to like that.
Mon - Driving home from Glen Shiel. Did 1/2 hr pilates later in the evening.
Tue - Climbing at local quarry. Led a 4, then a 4+ then clipsticked the draws into the 1st 2 bolts of the 6a+ I toproped last week. Toproped the crux then led the rest. Pulled the rope through and led it all cleanly. Eyed up a 6b to try and work on but no time today.
Wed - 3mile run. Average pace 8mins 34secs. Fastest run in ages, improving! 1st mile = 8mins 44secs, 2nd mile = 8mins 22 secs, 3rd mile = 8mins 36secs. Went back to quarry in the evening with RB but we were both tired and too cold to climb much. RB led a 4+, a 5+ and a 6a and I toproped the same, then we headed home, neither of us feeling enthusiastic.
RB has a double period of athletics at school on a Wed, so we've decided we'll climb out on Mondays rather than Wed as she's usually knackered on a Wed.
Thur - Bouldered for a couple of hours on my woody. Nailed a problem I'd been working on (havn't a clue of the grade but around V2) and close to getting the other one I'm working on.
Fri - 2hour brisk walk.
Sat - Hill run up a local Graham. Just under 6miles, but my Garmin went a bit wonky because I'd programmed my route into it, but veered off course several times and it doesn't seem to like that.
In reply to TonyB: Cheers, now out in Texas so everything is limited..
m: travel to US
t: 10 mile trail run
w: am: 5.5 mile road run. pm: 2 mile warm up then 2 mile race. won. good quick tempo session.
t: 10 mile trail run
f: 5.5 mile road run
s: White Rock Half marathon, Dallas, Texas. 2000 runners. Won in 1:19 in 30 deg heat, struggled in the heat, had an early lead then sat back in and couldn't risk pushing, was in a bad way at 10 miles starting to swerve and dizzy due to heat but realised the other guy was too so kicked and ran a few sub 6 minute miles to open up a comfortable gap. Nice and rare win. Interesting race, very much what we call a 'speddo', after a charlie spedding session, very fast miles, then quick running, prepares you for covering breaks in a race, and that was all I did yesterday. 5:40 minutes miles mixed with 6:20's so a strange tactical race in hot conditions and strong wind. Raced 4 times in Texas, 3 wins..
s: probably a 10 miler on trails
m: travel to US
t: 10 mile trail run
w: am: 5.5 mile road run. pm: 2 mile warm up then 2 mile race. won. good quick tempo session.
t: 10 mile trail run
f: 5.5 mile road run
s: White Rock Half marathon, Dallas, Texas. 2000 runners. Won in 1:19 in 30 deg heat, struggled in the heat, had an early lead then sat back in and couldn't risk pushing, was in a bad way at 10 miles starting to swerve and dizzy due to heat but realised the other guy was too so kicked and ran a few sub 6 minute miles to open up a comfortable gap. Nice and rare win. Interesting race, very much what we call a 'speddo', after a charlie spedding session, very fast miles, then quick running, prepares you for covering breaks in a race, and that was all I did yesterday. 5:40 minutes miles mixed with 6:20's so a strange tactical race in hot conditions and strong wind. Raced 4 times in Texas, 3 wins..
s: probably a 10 miler on trails
In reply to TonyB:
thanks again Tony,
Not the best of weeks due to feeling under the weather, still four sessions though nowt outside unfortunately, fingers crossed for next week on that score.
Mon: Home bouldering, 2hr 20, mainly strength, was trying to do more endurance but side tracked by new holds I put up last week
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Wall visit, definitely under par due to feeling shite, fell of the 6c I started last week, might go next week, another onsight at 6b+ but lacked mojo the whole session.
Fri: rest
Sat: Home bouldering, 2hr 20, again more strength work
Sun Home bouldering, 1 hr 30, general stuff, some fingerboard in there.
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
thanks again Tony,
Not the best of weeks due to feeling under the weather, still four sessions though nowt outside unfortunately, fingers crossed for next week on that score.
Mon: Home bouldering, 2hr 20, mainly strength, was trying to do more endurance but side tracked by new holds I put up last week
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Wall visit, definitely under par due to feeling shite, fell of the 6c I started last week, might go next week, another onsight at 6b+ but lacked mojo the whole session.
Fri: rest
Sat: Home bouldering, 2hr 20, again more strength work
Sun Home bouldering, 1 hr 30, general stuff, some fingerboard in there.
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
In reply to AJM: Sounds like you a great time Andy, well done, I'm not the least bit green
In reply to TonyB:
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2 (done)
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2 (failed)
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 12.00
Focus: Anerobic 2/2
Mon: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),3(4),2(4),0(4).
Tue: Trad (max VS).
Wed: Core(336).
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4).
Fri: Chest & Back(110). Core(320)
Sat: Indoor climbing(max 7a). Indoor bouldering(max v6) Repeaters(37)
Sun: Hungover & tired.
Tony, wrote it the wrong way around, I did the 4x4 after going sport climbing.
Pleased to complete two entire sets of my 4x4 circuits this week. I'm sure the next time I'm on 4x4 training I'll be adding at least one more V2 to the set.
General upper body training via Chest & Back routine not going too well, I feel sick every time I do it!!
Felt strong at the indoor wall on Saturday. I think endurance & technique is probably where I am weakest at the moment.
Going to take it easy next week, no climbing specific training.
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2 (done)
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2 (failed)
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 12.00
Focus: Anerobic 2/2
Mon: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),3(4),2(4),0(4).
Tue: Trad (max VS).
Wed: Core(336).
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V1+,V1) set1 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) set2 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4).
Fri: Chest & Back(110). Core(320)
Sat: Indoor climbing(max 7a). Indoor bouldering(max v6) Repeaters(37)
Sun: Hungover & tired.
Tony, wrote it the wrong way around, I did the 4x4 after going sport climbing.
Pleased to complete two entire sets of my 4x4 circuits this week. I'm sure the next time I'm on 4x4 training I'll be adding at least one more V2 to the set.
General upper body training via Chest & Back routine not going too well, I feel sick every time I do it!!
Felt strong at the indoor wall on Saturday. I think endurance & technique is probably where I am weakest at the moment.
Going to take it easy next week, no climbing specific training.
Cheers, yes a very enjoyable few days off
Mon-Fri - nothing, started new job which is fairly physical so shattered when got home each night but will get used to it!
Sat - 11 miler along trail and road to pick up car after mates stag last night, great hangover cure
Sun - 10 mile fell run, Y Ro Wen circuit, got battered by hail half way around, love it!
Mon-Fri - nothing, started new job which is fairly physical so shattered when got home each night but will get used to it!
Sat - 11 miler along trail and road to pick up car after mates stag last night, great hangover cure
Sun - 10 mile fell run, Y Ro Wen circuit, got battered by hail half way around, love it!
I've laid out my goals freshly. At the moment I'm really enjoying bouldering. There is so much quality stuff to do around Helsinki and with a small baby it's much more efficient for me to do this. I've expanded my bouldering goals. I also think 7c and 7c+ sport climbing pyramids might be a bit too ambitious, but think it's pretty feasible to complete the 7c pyramid in Finland and then have a winter trip to somewhere warm to try and break into the next grade.
2011 goals in Finland
7c pyramid -- (0/1 7c, 1/2 7b+, 1/4 7b, 5/8 7a+)
Possible candidates
7c - Purple Haze
7b+ - Molotovin Cocktail
7b – Babyface (7b/7b+), Minotaurus, Riistiripunta, Matchbox
7a+ Paha Paha Portsari, Echinaforce, Muuvijumpa
20 x Font 6C/6C+ (in Finland this season) -- 4/20
10x Font 7A/7A+ problems (in Finland this season) -- 2/10
Font 7B problem -- not yet
Winter trip to Kalymnos (try to break into 7c+/8a)
STG (by end of May)
1 7A/7A+ and 2x 6C/6C+ problems per week!
RP 2 routes in the 7c pyramid
June – July
Complete all the 7a+ and 7b routes in the pyramid
3 x 7A/7A+ problems, 6x 6C/6C+ problems
Aug – Oct
7b+ and 7c redpoints
2x 7A/7A+, 4x 6C/6C+ and 1x 7B
Bit of a mixed week great bouldering, lousy sport climbing.
Tue - Bouldering at Riistavuori after work. Sent a 7A, 6C+ (second go) and a 6C. This is perhaps the most productive session I've ever had.
Wed - 40 minute bouldering session on my own at Hakunila. I didn't really expect to get anything done but saw the opportunity to at least touch the rock. I got one move further than last week on Hanoi Rocks 7A+. Would have liked to have pushed further but would have preferred a second mat and spotter.
Fri - Bouldering session at Myllis. This is the first time I've been here and it is perhaps the best bouldering I've seen around Helsinki. I did the easiest problem there 6C+, came close to climbing the warm up 7A and I tried a 7B which felt tough but doable. Can't wait to get back!
Sat - Route climbing. 6b and 6b+ redpoints. I thought that I'd onsight them both to warm up and ended up needing 3 and 2 goes respectively. Oh well. I'll just put it down to a random bad day.
So not a bad week on the bouldering 7A, 2x6C+ and a 6C. The less said about the sport climbing the better!
2011 goals in Finland
7c pyramid -- (0/1 7c, 1/2 7b+, 1/4 7b, 5/8 7a+)
Possible candidates
7c - Purple Haze
7b+ - Molotovin Cocktail
7b – Babyface (7b/7b+), Minotaurus, Riistiripunta, Matchbox
7a+ Paha Paha Portsari, Echinaforce, Muuvijumpa
20 x Font 6C/6C+ (in Finland this season) -- 4/20
10x Font 7A/7A+ problems (in Finland this season) -- 2/10
Font 7B problem -- not yet
Winter trip to Kalymnos (try to break into 7c+/8a)
STG (by end of May)
1 7A/7A+ and 2x 6C/6C+ problems per week!
RP 2 routes in the 7c pyramid
June – July
Complete all the 7a+ and 7b routes in the pyramid
3 x 7A/7A+ problems, 6x 6C/6C+ problems
Aug – Oct
7b+ and 7c redpoints
2x 7A/7A+, 4x 6C/6C+ and 1x 7B
Bit of a mixed week great bouldering, lousy sport climbing.
Tue - Bouldering at Riistavuori after work. Sent a 7A, 6C+ (second go) and a 6C. This is perhaps the most productive session I've ever had.
Wed - 40 minute bouldering session on my own at Hakunila. I didn't really expect to get anything done but saw the opportunity to at least touch the rock. I got one move further than last week on Hanoi Rocks 7A+. Would have liked to have pushed further but would have preferred a second mat and spotter.
Fri - Bouldering session at Myllis. This is the first time I've been here and it is perhaps the best bouldering I've seen around Helsinki. I did the easiest problem there 6C+, came close to climbing the warm up 7A and I tried a 7B which felt tough but doable. Can't wait to get back!
Sat - Route climbing. 6b and 6b+ redpoints. I thought that I'd onsight them both to warm up and ended up needing 3 and 2 goes respectively. Oh well. I'll just put it down to a random bad day.
So not a bad week on the bouldering 7A, 2x6C+ and a 6C. The less said about the sport climbing the better!
In reply to IainRUK:
. Raced 4 times in Texas, 3 wins..
Thinking of emigrating?! Good work, you're in form...
Much more closer to home again for me.
M: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain.
T: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain.
W: 4.5mile beach/trail run.
T: AM 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain. PM 12mile road/fell run Tal Y Fan from Conwy (2 uphill Road, 8 fell, 2 downhill road again to finish)
F: 6mile beach/trail run, saw flashes of lightning and crapped myself somewhat.
S: 7.5mile fell run Sychnant Pass.
S: 10.5mile fell run Llywelyn/Grach from Eigiau.
. Raced 4 times in Texas, 3 wins..
Thinking of emigrating?! Good work, you're in form...
Much more closer to home again for me.
M: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain.
T: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain.
W: 4.5mile beach/trail run.
T: AM 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain. PM 12mile road/fell run Tal Y Fan from Conwy (2 uphill Road, 8 fell, 2 downhill road again to finish)
F: 6mile beach/trail run, saw flashes of lightning and crapped myself somewhat.
S: 7.5mile fell run Sychnant Pass.
S: 10.5mile fell run Llywelyn/Grach from Eigiau.
In reply to TonyB:
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B Tick
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Lawrencefield trad. lead 1xVS rpt 1xHVS o/s 1xVD o/s 2nd 1xHS 1xVD. Tried to onsight an E1 got toabou 4.5 meter pointand could not work the move out. Gearless to this point. Tried to do a move fully committed and slipped. Hit the ground hard. Walked away - Good result.
T: Rest
W: Shooters Nab Trad. Lead VS and HVS repeats. 1xVD repeat nice quick evening session
T: Rest
F: Wimbery bouldering. lots of mileage on easy problems. Also did my first font 6B. Good session!
S: Rest - drinking all day first at the match then at a bbq and then to another mates birthday got in at 3ish. So not much of a rest day haha
S: Wimberry bouldering. 2x6A in a day lots of new problems. Best hangover cure.
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
The fall shit me up a bit but will keep pushing it. Spent today climbing on high ball slabs. fun and games! first time I have done 2x 6A's in one day.
> Grubes - What a hectic day on Saturday. Hope things go better next time.
Cheers Tony. Haha things got even worse! read below ... Fail!!STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B Tick
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Lawrencefield trad. lead 1xVS rpt 1xHVS o/s 1xVD o/s 2nd 1xHS 1xVD. Tried to onsight an E1 got toabou 4.5 meter pointand could not work the move out. Gearless to this point. Tried to do a move fully committed and slipped. Hit the ground hard. Walked away - Good result.
T: Rest
W: Shooters Nab Trad. Lead VS and HVS repeats. 1xVD repeat nice quick evening session
T: Rest
F: Wimbery bouldering. lots of mileage on easy problems. Also did my first font 6B. Good session!
S: Rest - drinking all day first at the match then at a bbq and then to another mates birthday got in at 3ish. So not much of a rest day haha
S: Wimberry bouldering. 2x6A in a day lots of new problems. Best hangover cure.
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
The fall shit me up a bit but will keep pushing it. Spent today climbing on high ball slabs. fun and games! first time I have done 2x 6A's in one day.
In reply to TonyB:
cheers TonyB,
Couldn't get outdoors due to lack of car this week.
Tues: Wall - tweak to shoulder on an easy but awkward problem, really annoying.
Sat: felt shoulder when hoovering.
Sun: Kilnsey. busy... felt shoulder on open road warm-up, but not on four goes of No More Jumping to Conclusions. wait for repercussions tomorrow! good effort on the 7b+, crux is via a mono that isn't very good, didn't manage to latch the move as couldn't quite get feet in right place. maybe try again if I go back to it.
hope to get out twice next week.
cheers TonyB,
Couldn't get outdoors due to lack of car this week.
Tues: Wall - tweak to shoulder on an easy but awkward problem, really annoying.
Sat: felt shoulder when hoovering.
Sun: Kilnsey. busy... felt shoulder on open road warm-up, but not on four goes of No More Jumping to Conclusions. wait for repercussions tomorrow! good effort on the 7b+, crux is via a mono that isn't very good, didn't manage to latch the move as couldn't quite get feet in right place. maybe try again if I go back to it.
hope to get out twice next week.
In reply to TonyB:
Well done Iain, again.
And back in the land of the mortal: Well done Sankey. Very comfortably within target! Never again, or looking around for another?
Taper week 3 of 3.
M -
T - 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat
W -
T - 4.5 miles run road, easy flat
F - a brisk walk
S - 2.5ish miles, road, plus strides and stuff
S - Shakespeare Marathon 3:23:10 Slightly windy but otherwise excellent conditions.
First road marathon. My target when I started focussed training for this was 3:30, so I'm happy on that level. I felt strong through 20 miles and was heading for sub 3:20, but then started cramping. I managed to keep a reasonable pace (only passed once, I think) but not my fantasised glorious romp home down the Greenway. If there was going to be a next time I suppose more 20 mile plus outings at pace would have been a plan (I managed three, as per schedule). However, I've also decided that road racing at this distance is deeply dull. Might try a 10 or half later in the year, though
Well done Iain, again.
And back in the land of the mortal: Well done Sankey. Very comfortably within target! Never again, or looking around for another?
Taper week 3 of 3.
M -
T - 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat
W -
T - 4.5 miles run road, easy flat
F - a brisk walk
S - 2.5ish miles, road, plus strides and stuff
S - Shakespeare Marathon 3:23:10 Slightly windy but otherwise excellent conditions.
First road marathon. My target when I started focussed training for this was 3:30, so I'm happy on that level. I felt strong through 20 miles and was heading for sub 3:20, but then started cramping. I managed to keep a reasonable pace (only passed once, I think) but not my fantasised glorious romp home down the Greenway. If there was going to be a next time I suppose more 20 mile plus outings at pace would have been a plan (I managed three, as per schedule). However, I've also decided that road racing at this distance is deeply dull. Might try a 10 or half later in the year, though
In reply to TonyB:
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 4lb
M - Puking
T - Puking
W - Puking
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 15 mins stretches and exercise
Well at the middle of the week I'd managed to loose 1/2 a stone. I can confirm that the vomiting for several days straight is an excellent way to loose weight. Less good for your stomach and energy levels however. The illness at the start of the week properly laid me out. Only just got back to doing some exercise today. However I got some good news on Friday, I've been accepted on to a Conville course, so at the end of June I'm going to the Alps!!! Pretty chuffed about that.
So I'm going to have to start a program of getting my hill fitness high quickly. Which basically means doing a fair bit of running. I'm also going scrambling in North Wales next weekend. Once I'm back from the Alps, I think I'm going to concentrate on sport climbing and bouldering for a while to improve my technique before going back to the trad goals. Basically I need to refocus my goals, so there are less of them and they're more achievable.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 4lb
M - Puking
T - Puking
W - Puking
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 15 mins stretches and exercise
Well at the middle of the week I'd managed to loose 1/2 a stone. I can confirm that the vomiting for several days straight is an excellent way to loose weight. Less good for your stomach and energy levels however. The illness at the start of the week properly laid me out. Only just got back to doing some exercise today. However I got some good news on Friday, I've been accepted on to a Conville course, so at the end of June I'm going to the Alps!!! Pretty chuffed about that.
So I'm going to have to start a program of getting my hill fitness high quickly. Which basically means doing a fair bit of running. I'm also going scrambling in North Wales next weekend. Once I'm back from the Alps, I think I'm going to concentrate on sport climbing and bouldering for a while to improve my technique before going back to the trad goals. Basically I need to refocus my goals, so there are less of them and they're more achievable.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers for the feedback et al.,
A slack week for me, think it is the 2nd weekend since the start of feb which I haven't climbed at some point. Rest can be good.
Mon
tues: Indoors - mostly cruising easier stuff though fell off the last move of the hard greys, felt solid untill then.
Wed
Thur: Indoors - Quick session, nothing over 6bish
Fri
Sat
Sun
Next week - indoors once, weekend aims for hard sport, maybe 7c? Hopefull!
Ta, kev
Cheers for the feedback et al.,
A slack week for me, think it is the 2nd weekend since the start of feb which I haven't climbed at some point. Rest can be good.
Mon
tues: Indoors - mostly cruising easier stuff though fell off the last move of the hard greys, felt solid untill then.
Wed
Thur: Indoors - Quick session, nothing over 6bish
Fri
Sat
Sun
Next week - indoors once, weekend aims for hard sport, maybe 7c? Hopefull!
Ta, kev
In reply to Mark Torrance: Good stuff. The conditions looked a little indecisive out there in Stratford today - wasn't sure if it was going to drown everyone or bake them. I probably saw your finish, as looking at your time you would have been in between two club mates (they did 3.21 and 3.26ish). I felt rather jealous on cheering and jelly baby duty for the day!
In reply to mattrm:
Congrats on the conville course - very useful course that one. Hope you get as much out of it as I did.
Congrats on the conville course - very useful course that one. Hope you get as much out of it as I did.
In reply to Mark Torrance: Cheers, that is a great time for your first road marathon, well done yourself! Agree on the roads being dull, can only imagine what doing the full 26 must be like. I guess the appeal is it is easy to gauge and compare performances though. Personally, will work on the 10 k time then see about trying another half in the Autumn, maybe!
In reply to TonyB: Cheers. I can try and be optimistic and use it as a bit of a motivator for future things - one day I'll feel good on a day with decent conditions surely!
Mon: Wander up Ingleborough from Clapham.
Tue: Nothing
Wed: 11k offroad run, generally easy but with a few short quicker sections. Had strange incident with herd of cows trying to bully me into a hedge!
Thu: 9k easy run
Fri: 70k cycle, including couple of steady climbs around southern end of Malverns
Sat: 5k park run, Leamington Spa. 22min, went out far too fast, then discovered a sharp climb at 2k. Running ok until gut completely froze at 4kish (I blame previous nights food) and pootled in last bit. Long way from good overall, but got some quicker miles in my legs
Sun: Nothing - supporting H and friends at Shakespeare Mara and a few post race drinks meant little chance of anything tonight.
More relaxed week, largely to make sure I was over whatever hit last weekend and just keep my legs turning over. Hopefully back to more structured training for a couple of weeks, before a very erratic set of events in late May/early June - an open water swim event, a half marathon, a v.short fell race and a sprint tri.
I'm also thinking I may enter Mablethorpe Mara and focus training from Julyish on that.
Mon: Wander up Ingleborough from Clapham.
Tue: Nothing
Wed: 11k offroad run, generally easy but with a few short quicker sections. Had strange incident with herd of cows trying to bully me into a hedge!
Thu: 9k easy run
Fri: 70k cycle, including couple of steady climbs around southern end of Malverns
Sat: 5k park run, Leamington Spa. 22min, went out far too fast, then discovered a sharp climb at 2k. Running ok until gut completely froze at 4kish (I blame previous nights food) and pootled in last bit. Long way from good overall, but got some quicker miles in my legs
Sun: Nothing - supporting H and friends at Shakespeare Mara and a few post race drinks meant little chance of anything tonight.
More relaxed week, largely to make sure I was over whatever hit last weekend and just keep my legs turning over. Hopefully back to more structured training for a couple of weeks, before a very erratic set of events in late May/early June - an open water swim event, a half marathon, a v.short fell race and a sprint tri.
I'm also thinking I may enter Mablethorpe Mara and focus training from Julyish on that.
In reply to IainRUK:
Bloody hell, Iain, that's hot (in more ways than one), so well done!
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks, Tony, although I just don't think I could cope with Iain's 30-degree heat, and am hoping for cool, overcast conditions (and maybe even some drizzle) on 18 June. As for my week just past, back in the groove with (to quote tonight's blog post) 'six days on the trot running after two off to reestablish my 2011 term-time norm of 'training' Tuesday to Sunday with Monday evenings off, but still a consciously lighter week to follow the Fling with today's 5.9-mile jaunt bringing up just 43 overall and the soberly amusing thought that that's pretty well what I'll be needing *on the same day* to finish the WHW after a 53-mile 'Fling' start!'
M: [66.8] Rest
T: [65.6] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
W: [68.1] Dam by Ciaran Path, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
T: [76.0] Tigh-na-sleubhaich, 7.9 miles/1,500 ft
F: [85.1] Allt a' Choire Odhair-bhig, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
S: [37.1] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: [43.0] Beinn Trilleachan, 5.9 miles/3,300 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> Won in 1:19 in 30 deg heat
Bloody hell, Iain, that's hot (in more ways than one), so well done!
In reply to TonyB:
> Petestack - Great result in The Fling. Well done.
Thanks, Tony, although I just don't think I could cope with Iain's 30-degree heat, and am hoping for cool, overcast conditions (and maybe even some drizzle) on 18 June. As for my week just past, back in the groove with (to quote tonight's blog post) 'six days on the trot running after two off to reestablish my 2011 term-time norm of 'training' Tuesday to Sunday with Monday evenings off, but still a consciously lighter week to follow the Fling with today's 5.9-mile jaunt bringing up just 43 overall and the soberly amusing thought that that's pretty well what I'll be needing *on the same day* to finish the WHW after a 53-mile 'Fling' start!'
M: [66.8] Rest
T: [65.6] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
W: [68.1] Dam by Ciaran Path, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
T: [76.0] Tigh-na-sleubhaich, 7.9 miles/1,500 ft
F: [85.1] Allt a' Choire Odhair-bhig, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
S: [37.1] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: [43.0] Beinn Trilleachan, 5.9 miles/3,300 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony - i know what you mean about children and time = bouldering. As long as you enjoy it who cares :0)
AJM - great results well done. Should be the perfect set up for your best ever domestic season. Go to it !
M - nowt
T - Coaching session and trad at Reecastle
W - nowt
T - bouldering/technique session
F - nothing
S - bit of a jog for half hour
S - 2 half hour runs and Kendal wall
Finally seem to have overcome the lethargy - HOORAY !
Coaching session on Tuesday was brilliant. John Kettle, a guy from Kendal, really knows his stuff about movement coaching. It turns out i am accurate with my hands and feet and have good general technique but i am more static than a bollard and climb with only one leg. Lots to work on and it's had an impact already.
Reecastle felt easy compared to last week and Kendal today was amazing. I have always been rubbish at rockovers but did one i couldn't touch last time, first time. I got a second problem i'd given up on 2nd time. This momentum stuff could work.
I also went on the auto belays and using my new found momentum cruised about on 6b+ forever without getting pumped and climbed past the crux holds on 2 routes without touching them. I could get to like this.
Now i am feeling more human i am going to re assess my goals this week and see where i am heading before Spain.
Thanks Tony - i know what you mean about children and time = bouldering. As long as you enjoy it who cares :0)
AJM - great results well done. Should be the perfect set up for your best ever domestic season. Go to it !
M - nowt
T - Coaching session and trad at Reecastle
W - nowt
T - bouldering/technique session
F - nothing
S - bit of a jog for half hour
S - 2 half hour runs and Kendal wall
Finally seem to have overcome the lethargy - HOORAY !
Coaching session on Tuesday was brilliant. John Kettle, a guy from Kendal, really knows his stuff about movement coaching. It turns out i am accurate with my hands and feet and have good general technique but i am more static than a bollard and climb with only one leg. Lots to work on and it's had an impact already.
Reecastle felt easy compared to last week and Kendal today was amazing. I have always been rubbish at rockovers but did one i couldn't touch last time, first time. I got a second problem i'd given up on 2nd time. This momentum stuff could work.
I also went on the auto belays and using my new found momentum cruised about on 6b+ forever without getting pumped and climbed past the crux holds on 2 routes without touching them. I could get to like this.
Now i am feeling more human i am going to re assess my goals this week and see where i am heading before Spain.
In reply to Mark Torrance:
Good stuff, Mark!
Agreed (and I've never even done a full road marathon)!
> Shakespeare Marathon 3:23:10
Good stuff, Mark!
> However, I've also decided that road racing at this distance is deeply dull.
Agreed (and I've never even done a full road marathon)!
In reply to TonyB:
Tony thanks very much!
AJM - sounds like an amazing trip. Jealous ain't the word!
M: Recovering from trip, hanging out with in-laws.
T: Back to work agghhhh!
W: Light session of core and weights at home.
T: Nowt.
F: Getting tattooed. Painful, but a sort of fun.
S: Recovering from Friday - very sore!
S: Bouldering at Westway. Did a V4 second go, worked on a V5 and V6. Assisted one-armers, with arm on knotted rope about a foot below. 3 sets of 2 on each arm, had definite problems getting all the way up on the left arm.
So my new aims are to get a bit stronger whilst enduring a month where real life is going to get in the way of climbing a bit too much for my tastes. My short-term goals are to actually properly work some problems a bit too hard for me, to work on assisted one-armers, and to get a lot of falling practice in, hopefully in the 40 - 50 falls mark by early June.
Tony thanks very much!
AJM - sounds like an amazing trip. Jealous ain't the word!
M: Recovering from trip, hanging out with in-laws.
T: Back to work agghhhh!
W: Light session of core and weights at home.
T: Nowt.
F: Getting tattooed. Painful, but a sort of fun.
S: Recovering from Friday - very sore!
S: Bouldering at Westway. Did a V4 second go, worked on a V5 and V6. Assisted one-armers, with arm on knotted rope about a foot below. 3 sets of 2 on each arm, had definite problems getting all the way up on the left arm.
So my new aims are to get a bit stronger whilst enduring a month where real life is going to get in the way of climbing a bit too much for my tastes. My short-term goals are to actually properly work some problems a bit too hard for me, to work on assisted one-armers, and to get a lot of falling practice in, hopefully in the 40 - 50 falls mark by early June.
In reply to biscuit & Murd:
Cheers guys. Looking at the number of hard (for me) routes I'd done 18 months ago (a 6c onsight and a few flashes, 2 7as and a 7b I think) versus what I've done now, I'm really happy with the consolidation I've achieved - hopefully the 6c+ and 7a of this trip will be the first of many grade pushes for the year, but also the fact I've got a vaguely rounded pyramid shape to my routes now I'm very pleased with - still some areas to work on but overall I've become a more well-rounded climber, which bodes well.
My May is as manic as anything, but I'm certainly hoping to get stuck into the 7b+ off my 7b+ pyramid, plus hopefully the remaining 7b too, before half of Cheddar closes for the summer. If I can do that I reckon I'll be on for a good go at packing out the 7c pyramid by the end of the year. And I'm so psyched its untrue for a really good trip of onsighting and flashing at Boffi etc come autumn.....
A
> AJM - great results well done. Should be the perfect set up for your best ever domestic season. Go to it !
Cheers guys. Looking at the number of hard (for me) routes I'd done 18 months ago (a 6c onsight and a few flashes, 2 7as and a 7b I think) versus what I've done now, I'm really happy with the consolidation I've achieved - hopefully the 6c+ and 7a of this trip will be the first of many grade pushes for the year, but also the fact I've got a vaguely rounded pyramid shape to my routes now I'm very pleased with - still some areas to work on but overall I've become a more well-rounded climber, which bodes well.
My May is as manic as anything, but I'm certainly hoping to get stuck into the 7b+ off my 7b+ pyramid, plus hopefully the remaining 7b too, before half of Cheddar closes for the summer. If I can do that I reckon I'll be on for a good go at packing out the 7c pyramid by the end of the year. And I'm so psyched its untrue for a really good trip of onsighting and flashing at Boffi etc come autumn.....
A
In reply to seankenny:
Cheers - sounds like we got a lot nicer weather for it than you guys did - I saw your post last week, its a shame you didn't get to the gorge itself so much after all that training.
Some amazing new places though, yeah. If you want 6cs to try and onsight then the Damned sector at Boffi has to be one of the most concentrated sectors of good ones I've yet come across.....
Cheers - sounds like we got a lot nicer weather for it than you guys did - I saw your post last week, its a shame you didn't get to the gorge itself so much after all that training.
Some amazing new places though, yeah. If you want 6cs to try and onsight then the Damned sector at Boffi has to be one of the most concentrated sectors of good ones I've yet come across.....
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony.
Recovery week really with my blisters and sore legs. A 26m bike commute, a briskish 5 mile run then the West Riding Classic sportive yesterday.
Planned to do the 75 miler but had more or less decided on a switch to the 60 miler as my mate was suffering with his back and kept having to stop to stretch. We got to the feed stop at 33 miles when I realksed the car key I'd carefully stowed in my pocket was for my wife's car - meaning my car was open with the key in the armrest. Oops. So we aborted and wazzed through Helwith Bridge to the car. So just 40m but we missed the downpour, and the wind was very tough, so a decent workout.
Recovery week really with my blisters and sore legs. A 26m bike commute, a briskish 5 mile run then the West Riding Classic sportive yesterday.
Planned to do the 75 miler but had more or less decided on a switch to the 60 miler as my mate was suffering with his back and kept having to stop to stretch. We got to the feed stop at 33 miles when I realksed the car key I'd carefully stowed in my pocket was for my wife's car - meaning my car was open with the key in the armrest. Oops. So we aborted and wazzed through Helwith Bridge to the car. So just 40m but we missed the downpour, and the wind was very tough, so a decent workout.
In reply to Liam M:
Liam - do you know about the Malvern Midsummer Marathon? It's an LDWA thing, but over marathon distance, with lots of ascent. Starts below Wyche, goes North over the hills, then a big loop round on the West side, then back over all the remaining ones. There's a runners start. Low key and and fun with lots of cake and stuff as at regular intervals.
Liam - do you know about the Malvern Midsummer Marathon? It's an LDWA thing, but over marathon distance, with lots of ascent. Starts below Wyche, goes North over the hills, then a big loop round on the West side, then back over all the remaining ones. There's a runners start. Low key and and fun with lots of cake and stuff as at regular intervals.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks again Tony.
STG (end of sept 2011): E2 onsight, more 7b's at malham/kilnsey
MTG: (end of 2011): Yorkshire Limestone 7b+
mon: Didn't go to woodwell as friend with the local knowledge couldn't make it so went to Craig y longridge instead. Didn't feel as week as I anticipated and ticked off Big Marine (V7) using the little ladder to reach the start holds. I need to go back and do it by jumping to the start holds, which I didn't fancy this time given the finger injury!
Thurs: Routes indoors as it rained. Went to west view where the routes are more like extended boulder problems as it's not very high so it suits my complete lack of stamina quite well. Despite this I always think they overgrade the routes there considerably so don't consider the grades a correct indicator of my current level. However it's nice for the ego to climb 6 consecutive routes in the 7s, including 2 7bs, only falling off twice.
Think I'll be dodging the showers this week and don't forsee a lot of time for climbing in the next few weeks as it's my stag party next weekend and wedding the weekend after. On the upside I feel a lot happier with the injured finger now, think I can start pulling hard again.
Thanks again Tony.
STG (end of sept 2011): E2 onsight, more 7b's at malham/kilnsey
MTG: (end of 2011): Yorkshire Limestone 7b+
mon: Didn't go to woodwell as friend with the local knowledge couldn't make it so went to Craig y longridge instead. Didn't feel as week as I anticipated and ticked off Big Marine (V7) using the little ladder to reach the start holds. I need to go back and do it by jumping to the start holds, which I didn't fancy this time given the finger injury!
Thurs: Routes indoors as it rained. Went to west view where the routes are more like extended boulder problems as it's not very high so it suits my complete lack of stamina quite well. Despite this I always think they overgrade the routes there considerably so don't consider the grades a correct indicator of my current level. However it's nice for the ego to climb 6 consecutive routes in the 7s, including 2 7bs, only falling off twice.
Think I'll be dodging the showers this week and don't forsee a lot of time for climbing in the next few weeks as it's my stag party next weekend and wedding the weekend after. On the upside I feel a lot happier with the injured finger now, think I can start pulling hard again.
Cheers TonyB
Decided to be a bit more specific (and probably overly ambitious) with Goals for 2011:
10 x 6C/6C+ (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (physio app. booked)
M: Churnet bouldering, should get Duck Billed Platypus soon (just that initial throw to catch)
T: Theraband & core (500)
W: 3xDB complex, BM pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
T: Theraband & core (500)
F: rest
S: bouldering at Notts wall, great session
S: bouldering at Notts wall, rubbish session due to elbows being really painful again
Fairly good week, feel like I am climbing well. Need to avoid climbing two days in a row for now, which seems to really aggravate my elbows.
Decided to be a bit more specific (and probably overly ambitious) with Goals for 2011:
10 x 6C/6C+ (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (physio app. booked)
M: Churnet bouldering, should get Duck Billed Platypus soon (just that initial throw to catch)
T: Theraband & core (500)
W: 3xDB complex, BM pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
T: Theraband & core (500)
F: rest
S: bouldering at Notts wall, great session
S: bouldering at Notts wall, rubbish session due to elbows being really painful again
Fairly good week, feel like I am climbing well. Need to avoid climbing two days in a row for now, which seems to really aggravate my elbows.
In reply to Steve John B:
Just realised I did 5 mile/500' run on Monday, partly on road, which didn't do much for my knees/shins.
> (In reply to TonyB) Thanks Tony. Calf better, but both knees playing up. Need to get to the physio asap.
>
> Mon-Sun: bog all really, apart from heel drops for my achilles.
>
> Mon-Sun: bog all really, apart from heel drops for my achilles.
Just realised I did 5 mile/500' run on Monday, partly on road, which didn't do much for my knees/shins.
In reply to AJM:
Ah these things happen, I'm trying to be philosophical about it!
Boffi sounds ace. Do you reckon you could do it in a long weekend from London?
Ah these things happen, I'm trying to be philosophical about it!
Boffi sounds ace. Do you reckon you could do it in a long weekend from London?
In reply to seankenny:
I was reading simon lee (shark)'s blog a while back and he did that area as a long weekend this winter/spring. You are only an hour or two from Montpelier and rodez which I think are the nearest airports, so it's probably doable if the flight times are right.
I was reading simon lee (shark)'s blog a while back and he did that area as a long weekend this winter/spring. You are only an hour or two from Montpelier and rodez which I think are the nearest airports, so it's probably doable if the flight times are right.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony, really good week, horrible weekend.
STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:02, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.
MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.
LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.
Monday - took advantage of the bank holiday and did ten miles on my local fells in the morning then did a steady five (7 min/mile) on an undulating road circuit in the evening.
Tuesday - 7.3 miles including 5 miles fartlek with club, felt pretty good.
Wednesday - 10 miles slow (7:50 min/mile) on an undulating road circuit.
Thursday - 3.6 miles steady trail run.
Friday - rest.
Was due to race at Heaton parkrun Saturday and do a long run in the hills Sunday, maybe a little climbing on one of the afternoons. Developed a dental abscess, which I only managed to get treatment for this morning. Felt dreadful, particularly last night and this morning. Feeling much better now as the antibiotics have kicked in, I might even feel up to racing tomorrow.
Thanks Tony, really good week, horrible weekend.
STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:02, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.
MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.
LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.
Monday - took advantage of the bank holiday and did ten miles on my local fells in the morning then did a steady five (7 min/mile) on an undulating road circuit in the evening.
Tuesday - 7.3 miles including 5 miles fartlek with club, felt pretty good.
Wednesday - 10 miles slow (7:50 min/mile) on an undulating road circuit.
Thursday - 3.6 miles steady trail run.
Friday - rest.
Was due to race at Heaton parkrun Saturday and do a long run in the hills Sunday, maybe a little climbing on one of the afternoons. Developed a dental abscess, which I only managed to get treatment for this morning. Felt dreadful, particularly last night and this morning. Feeling much better now as the antibiotics have kicked in, I might even feel up to racing tomorrow.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks mate. Well done on all the sport climbing, looks like you had a great trip. Lots of good ticks. I'm really looking forward to the alps. Booked the flights this morning. Just got to sort out a train at this end and transfers to Cham at the other end. Also got to figure out what kit to take and if it'll all fit in under the 20kg limit. Think I've got most of the gear I need, just not sure if it'll all fit in one bag. Also wondering if my Quark is going to be a bit technical for things. Certainly can't afford another ice axe.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> Congrats on the conville course - very useful course that one. Hope you get as much out of it as I did.
>
> Congrats on the conville course - very useful course that one. Hope you get as much out of it as I did.
Thanks mate. Well done on all the sport climbing, looks like you had a great trip. Lots of good ticks. I'm really looking forward to the alps. Booked the flights this morning. Just got to sort out a train at this end and transfers to Cham at the other end. Also got to figure out what kit to take and if it'll all fit in under the 20kg limit. Think I've got most of the gear I need, just not sure if it'll all fit in one bag. Also wondering if my Quark is going to be a bit technical for things. Certainly can't afford another ice axe.
Thank you TonyB:
Upcoming races:
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
Another light week (apart from Monday...)
M: "Do-it-yourself" Middle Distance(ish) triathlon. Swam 2500m (about 50 minutes), cycled 92km (4 hours), ran for 1h30. Did this together with a friend from the triathlon club who is also training for an Ironman. This was good from the point of view of having some company but I think may have led to me taking the bike a little faster than I should have done. Anyway for whatever reason I got awful stomach cramps on the "run" and ended up only covering 11km with quite a lot of walking (we had a 5k out and back to run, so my friend went off at his own speed and did 18k). Stomach issues could also be due to eating too much or not drinking enough or? So nutrition (the "4th discipline" of longer distance triathlons) still needs some work.
Tu: rest
W: rest
Th: swimming 1 hour
F: rest
Sa: went to triathlon club cycling skills session - cycling round cones and doing time trialling skills and so on. Good but not perhaps as much distance as I'd wanted.
Su: ran 11km in 1 hour - still feeling a little tired.
Upcoming races:
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
Another light week (apart from Monday...)
M: "Do-it-yourself" Middle Distance(ish) triathlon. Swam 2500m (about 50 minutes), cycled 92km (4 hours), ran for 1h30. Did this together with a friend from the triathlon club who is also training for an Ironman. This was good from the point of view of having some company but I think may have led to me taking the bike a little faster than I should have done. Anyway for whatever reason I got awful stomach cramps on the "run" and ended up only covering 11km with quite a lot of walking (we had a 5k out and back to run, so my friend went off at his own speed and did 18k). Stomach issues could also be due to eating too much or not drinking enough or? So nutrition (the "4th discipline" of longer distance triathlons) still needs some work.
Tu: rest
W: rest
Th: swimming 1 hour
F: rest
Sa: went to triathlon club cycling skills session - cycling round cones and doing time trialling skills and so on. Good but not perhaps as much distance as I'd wanted.
Su: ran 11km in 1 hour - still feeling a little tired.
In reply to TonyB:
Still a bit bummed I dropped the last move on Elite, but I did at least manage to see off a long standing nemesis in Simple Simon on wednesday. It's only v8 but it's taken me about 8days in 18months. Despite it probably being suited to my style... Whatever, I did it. Woohoo.
Other than that I tried to rest and recover mentally and physically after falling off after the RP crux on the 8a. I did do some core training on saturday.
Not too psyched at the moment. Stressed out about money situation at the moment so could really have done with a real boost in my climbing to cheer me up. Oh well.
Still a bit bummed I dropped the last move on Elite, but I did at least manage to see off a long standing nemesis in Simple Simon on wednesday. It's only v8 but it's taken me about 8days in 18months. Despite it probably being suited to my style... Whatever, I did it. Woohoo.
Other than that I tried to rest and recover mentally and physically after falling off after the RP crux on the 8a. I did do some core training on saturday.
Not too psyched at the moment. Stressed out about money situation at the moment so could really have done with a real boost in my climbing to cheer me up. Oh well.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. No climbing done this week, lots of rest. Had some weird tingling in my thumbs and forefingers after last weekend so have dug out the dumbells to stave off a return of elbow problems. Hope to be able to get back into some proper training this week.
By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack (think I'm going to sack this goal for the year, now it's well into routes season.)
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham?
M - Malham (see last week)
T - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups
W - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups
T - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups
F - rest
S - rest
S - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls
Thanks Tony. No climbing done this week, lots of rest. Had some weird tingling in my thumbs and forefingers after last weekend so have dug out the dumbells to stave off a return of elbow problems. Hope to be able to get back into some proper training this week.
By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack (think I'm going to sack this goal for the year, now it's well into routes season.)
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham?
M - Malham (see last week)
T - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups
W - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups
T - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups
F - rest
S - rest
S - rest. Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls
In reply to mattrm:
Stick a wanted add for a DMM Cirque or similar. Prices will be rock bottom at the moment and they are only about £70 new so an old battered one would be half that i guess.
Stick a wanted add for a DMM Cirque or similar. Prices will be rock bottom at the moment and they are only about £70 new so an old battered one would be half that i guess.
In reply to catt:
Just get on some Limestone font 7b's instead. Raven tor, or Parisella's. There's plenty of boulders and sport to play on. Jerry's traverse is a little bit of a non-problem anyway as it's practically a campus route and T-Crack is so eliminate it's confusing. Another pretty good limestone venue could be Pantymywn (Devil's Gorge.) Some really good routes there and a quite a few v8's. Also there are loads of good F7c's at Dinbren. Maybe you should pay it a visit.
Just get on some Limestone font 7b's instead. Raven tor, or Parisella's. There's plenty of boulders and sport to play on. Jerry's traverse is a little bit of a non-problem anyway as it's practically a campus route and T-Crack is so eliminate it's confusing. Another pretty good limestone venue could be Pantymywn (Devil's Gorge.) Some really good routes there and a quite a few v8's. Also there are loads of good F7c's at Dinbren. Maybe you should pay it a visit.
In reply to seankenny:
We camped, although if we do a trip sept/oct we will probably do gites as camping kit weighs!
In reply to mattrm:
I suspect a quark would be a bit technical. Biscuits suggestion is a good one, although I've got a pair of alpine-esque axes I could potentially lend a fellow fitclubber if you are stuck.
We camped, although if we do a trip sept/oct we will probably do gites as camping kit weighs!
In reply to mattrm:
I suspect a quark would be a bit technical. Biscuits suggestion is a good one, although I've got a pair of alpine-esque axes I could potentially lend a fellow fitclubber if you are stuck.
In reply to TonyB:
biscuit/AJM:
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I know a few people with walking/alpine axes, so I'll try them first. Just heading up into the loft with the scales to see what I can fit in the big red bag.
biscuit/AJM:
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I know a few people with walking/alpine axes, so I'll try them first. Just heading up into the loft with the scales to see what I can fit in the big red bag.
In reply to Mark Torrance: I hadn't come across that. Looks interesting. I do like LDWA events. I'll have to try and work out what I've got scheduled for that weekend. Cheers
In reply to Mark Torrance:
Well done mate. You definately have to pick your races on road to keep it interesting!
Well done mate. You definately have to pick your races on road to keep it interesting!
In reply to TonyB: Enforced week off for me due to business commitments, except for a bit of deadhanging. Normal service will be resumed next week...
In reply to TonyB:
Had a very low key week...
Nice work AJM, sounds like an awesome trip
And Eagle River - congrats!
Mon - Malham. Spectating/belaying only!
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Castle. Easy boulder up to V2.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Visiting family.
Sun - Visiting family.
Had a very low key week...
Nice work AJM, sounds like an awesome trip
And Eagle River - congrats!
Mon - Malham. Spectating/belaying only!
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Castle. Easy boulder up to V2.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Visiting family.
Sun - Visiting family.
In reply to TonyB: Cheers Tony – Well done for keeping the thread going.....
Goals: May – Sub 33 min 10K
Mon: Rest
Tue: Lunch - physio exercises pm - 15mins easy and strides
Wed: Lunch – stretching pm Silverstone 10K - 4th in 31:50 – shocked!!! No way thought I was in that kind of shape. Huge PB by 65 seconds! 2M warm-up and cool down - very happy.
Thurs: Drive up to the Lakes for a conference pm - 45 mins steady
Fri: pm 10Miles from Grasmere up and over to Stickle tarn and back via Easdale tarn – legs battered from running downhill
Sat: pm - 10M steady round Thirlmere reservoir, physio exercises
Sun: pm - Fairfield Horseshoe ~10M as got a bit lost in the clag. Legs even more battered.
Total: ~50M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
So pleased with 10K performance, can’t believe it even now! Also found out that I can’t run downhill at all – no idea how you fell running guys do that! Really need to come up with some new goals now after my 10K performance.
Goals: May – Sub 33 min 10K
Mon: Rest
Tue: Lunch - physio exercises pm - 15mins easy and strides
Wed: Lunch – stretching pm Silverstone 10K - 4th in 31:50 – shocked!!! No way thought I was in that kind of shape. Huge PB by 65 seconds! 2M warm-up and cool down - very happy.
Thurs: Drive up to the Lakes for a conference pm - 45 mins steady
Fri: pm 10Miles from Grasmere up and over to Stickle tarn and back via Easdale tarn – legs battered from running downhill
Sat: pm - 10M steady round Thirlmere reservoir, physio exercises
Sun: pm - Fairfield Horseshoe ~10M as got a bit lost in the clag. Legs even more battered.
Total: ~50M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
So pleased with 10K performance, can’t believe it even now! Also found out that I can’t run downhill at all – no idea how you fell running guys do that! Really need to come up with some new goals now after my 10K performance.
In reply to Humperdink:
Absolutely fantastic, that's seriously fast!
Aye, and I've no idea how you road (?) running guys go so quick!
> Silverstone 10K - 4th in 31:50 – shocked!!! No way thought I was in that kind of shape. Huge PB by 65 seconds! 2M warm-up and cool down - very happy.
Absolutely fantastic, that's seriously fast!
> Also found out that I can’t run downhill at all – no idea how you fell running guys do that!
Aye, and I've no idea how you road (?) running guys go so quick!
In reply to Humperdink: wow, impressive..I've ran consistently 34/35 10k for a few years now, might try and put work in over the winter and try and drop it again. Doubt I'll ever see 31 though, if I see 33:something I'd be very happy.
Re fells, there's some natural descending ability, some people either can or can't, but the more you do the less it impacts.
Re fells, there's some natural descending ability, some people either can or can't, but the more you do the less it impacts.
In reply to Humperdink:
Well done, I couldn't run that fast even downhill
Its def different fell running downhill, some average runners on the flat can go seriously fast downhill on the fells.
Well done, I couldn't run that fast even downhill
Its def different fell running downhill, some average runners on the flat can go seriously fast downhill on the fells.
In reply to Thickhead & IainRUK & Petestack: Cheers guys! - even now I'm half convinced the course was short It makes not climbing for a year just about worth it!
I can certainly see how running downhill without the braking of your quads would be better on your legs but I'd end up with no teeth very quickly if I tried that! Maybe its just horses for courses - I'm not about to start fell running thats for sure....
I can certainly see how running downhill without the braking of your quads would be better on your legs but I'd end up with no teeth very quickly if I tried that! Maybe its just horses for courses - I'm not about to start fell running thats for sure....
In reply to TonyB: New poster here - I've been reading this for a few week and am keen to join in.
Current status - Recently had my first trip to Font. Three full days with half a day either side. What a leaning experience, back to basics for me.
Last week:
Monday - Return from Font with sore fingertips but no font elbow.
Tuesday - back to work with no access to a climbing gym or crag.
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - 5km run, shoulder supersets, light squats and stretches.
Friday - rest
Saturday - 5km run, Shoulder supersets, arms and stretches.
Sunday - Stretches, chin ups and forearm exersises.
Aim for the next week - Run on three day. (2*5km & 1*6km).
Stretches every day
Weights on 3 days
Chin-ups,pressups and forearm exersise on three day
Look forward to getting home and getting out on the sandstone!
Current status - Recently had my first trip to Font. Three full days with half a day either side. What a leaning experience, back to basics for me.
Last week:
Monday - Return from Font with sore fingertips but no font elbow.
Tuesday - back to work with no access to a climbing gym or crag.
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - 5km run, shoulder supersets, light squats and stretches.
Friday - rest
Saturday - 5km run, Shoulder supersets, arms and stretches.
Sunday - Stretches, chin ups and forearm exersises.
Aim for the next week - Run on three day. (2*5km & 1*6km).
Stretches every day
Weights on 3 days
Chin-ups,pressups and forearm exersise on three day
Look forward to getting home and getting out on the sandstone!
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks again Tony, I hope so too!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 18 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
A week of complete rest, well almost had 1 hour easy climbing on saturday and sunday just ticking mileaage.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
This Weeks Goals:
Back into Loading Phase working on strength 2 (max hangs and one arm pulls) also working on ancap with 10 move circuit x 4 repeated up to 4 times. Aerocap twice per week, Trip to Devon on Saturday and Sunday hopefully tick something decent and get on an 8a (Cider Soak). Bring weight back under 75kg (too many easter eggs!)
Weight: 76.1.4kg
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks again Tony, I hope so too!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 18 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
A week of complete rest, well almost had 1 hour easy climbing on saturday and sunday just ticking mileaage.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
This Weeks Goals:
Back into Loading Phase working on strength 2 (max hangs and one arm pulls) also working on ancap with 10 move circuit x 4 repeated up to 4 times. Aerocap twice per week, Trip to Devon on Saturday and Sunday hopefully tick something decent and get on an 8a (Cider Soak). Bring weight back under 75kg (too many easter eggs!)
Weight: 76.1.4kg
Cheers
Gordon
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers again Tony.
STG
Redpoint 7c+
fill out 8a pyramid as much as possible over summer (5x7b+, 2x7c, 2x7c+) ticked: (3x7b+, 2x7c)
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 6x7a, 2+1x7a+)
MTG
Raindogs - Autumn 2011
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 10)
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Very slow week for me. Mostly rest/recovery. Low power as per usual after coming back from a week outside.
M: Malham - see last week
T: rest
W: Castle. bouldering. v low power. Ticked light blue (v4?) on Wave.
T: rest
F: Castle. bouldering. v low power. Wave - not really getting anywhere on set problems. Trying old no.20 on boulder ladder, linked in 2 sections.
S:
S: Castle - bouldering, low-ish power. Wave - no progress.
Putting finishing touches to in-season training plan which should take me up to the Autumn and the big goal. The strategy is a bit untested but I have opted for a non-linear periodisation plan, which is simpler than it sounds but in theory should make best use of midweek indoor sessions to maintain and build on winter gains. Details next week.
Cheers again Tony.
STG
Redpoint 7c+
fill out 8a pyramid as much as possible over summer (5x7b+, 2x7c, 2x7c+) ticked: (3x7b+, 2x7c)
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 6x7a, 2+1x7a+)
MTG
Raindogs - Autumn 2011
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 10)
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Very slow week for me. Mostly rest/recovery. Low power as per usual after coming back from a week outside.
M: Malham - see last week
T: rest
W: Castle. bouldering. v low power. Ticked light blue (v4?) on Wave.
T: rest
F: Castle. bouldering. v low power. Wave - not really getting anywhere on set problems. Trying old no.20 on boulder ladder, linked in 2 sections.
S:
S: Castle - bouldering, low-ish power. Wave - no progress.
Putting finishing touches to in-season training plan which should take me up to the Autumn and the big goal. The strategy is a bit untested but I have opted for a non-linear periodisation plan, which is simpler than it sounds but in theory should make best use of midweek indoor sessions to maintain and build on winter gains. Details next week.
In reply to Goonie:
Enlighten me. What is a Bolton complex? I presume it's an exercise and not some kind of horrible feeling about not coming from Burnley...
Enlighten me. What is a Bolton complex? I presume it's an exercise and not some kind of horrible feeling about not coming from Burnley...
In reply to seankenny:
check out this thread for rationale and instructions. Should answer most questions. Worth watching the vid of the Javorek complex to get the general idea.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16911.0.html
> Enlighten me. What is a Bolton complex?
check out this thread for rationale and instructions. Should answer most questions. Worth watching the vid of the Javorek complex to get the general idea.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16911.0.html
In reply to TonyB: Still only climbing twice a week at the moment
Tuesday: Mainly just climbing overhanging stuff.
Friday: A liitle hungover (4 exams the previous day). Started with a bit of bouldering and then tried a bit of ARCing which lasted about 20 mins. I'm hoping to get to 45+ mins on harder routes by July.
Tuesday: Mainly just climbing overhanging stuff.
Friday: A liitle hungover (4 exams the previous day). Started with a bit of bouldering and then tried a bit of ARCing which lasted about 20 mins. I'm hoping to get to 45+ mins on harder routes by July.
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