UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here: 
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last weeks (224) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=465567

Repeat Posters - 19
AJM
TonyB - nice one on pushing the trad grade! Sounds a bit spicy on the crux
Liam M - sounds like a good result on the race - even if the PB technically wasn't broken it sounds like you would crush it on the right course
andy - you may have to elaborate on this flip flop injury - sounds quite severe given the involvement of a flip flop
grubes - sounds like a good week. Surrised at the fingerboard advice I must say - wasn't it Dave Mc who said "fingerboards make weak people strong".....
Steve John B - biking after a break is hard. I was going to try that punishment session myself today (Sat) but the torrents of rain hitting my window are making my glad of my own laziness!
Murd - sounds like you're over the wrist and pushing onwards and upwards
petestack - time to start building for the next one then now
IainRUK - 1 second - so close!
Eagle River - CYL sounds like an ace training venue
Curious Yellow - sounds like progress on Mouth Waters
richardh - sounds like a good week - 2 7b redpoints and a 7a onsight (plus near misses) sounds like good going
biscuit - sounds like, midges aside, a good week - 6C+, near 7A flash, progress on a 7A+. Have been re-reading my chorro guide and wondering if I can squeeze in a trip round Christmas time. Very jealous of your move
Kevster - hope you got outdoors to recharge your psyche?
leon - good results at Barcud, nice one
mattrm - rest week
Hoppo - sounds like fun on the mountain marathon
seankenny - sounds like a good weekend
chris05 - building a good base of easy problems is no bad thing as prep for hitting the hard stuff again


Returners - 5
Sonya Mc - everyone needs a slack week every once in a while
plexiglass_nick - reading your posts, I can't help but wonder if you're overtraining, especially given the full-on nature of the work etc at the minute as well? Maybe a break from the outdoors will give your body a chance to unload the fatigue and do some proper recuperating?
JimmyKay - running laps on V9 = impressive
catt - Hebrides are awesome aren't they. You'll be able to explore much more following a relocation up north too
The New NickB - busy few weeks - hope the niggles clear up

Newcomers - 1
gary.barr - welcome!

Absentees - 8
Sankey - alps
Mark Torrance
Daniel Heath
Jeriqo
fimm - Austria
viking
Stone_Donkey
J0

In reply to AJM: Disappointing week - my Stanage daytrip got rained off so no chance to consolidate with more VS's. One indoor bouldering session (OK) and one leading session (dire). Seem to have lost the structure to my training and it's becoming a bit of a "turn up, faff about on some routes no harder than anything done before, go home". Weekend on rock in N. Wales next weekend so perhaps that will relight the progression (weather permitting)

In reply to AJM:

In regards to your comment on Plexi Nick. I'd agree. If you're working loads then lots of rest is a lot more benefitial. At the moment I'm having 3 or 4 recovery days (with a small amount of active rest but not much) and seeing good results. I feel stronger everytime I go out.

In reply to AJM:

cheers AJM.

my back felt a bit sore after Cheedale on sunday, but not half as bad as it did on Monday am. Couldn't even get my socks on.

M: osteopath visit and not much else
T: work - ish, difficult
W: work - more difficult
T: couldn't move, leg going numb, trip to A&E
F: rest.
S: picked up a bit with diclofenac
S: not a chance of climbing, back not too bad, could put socks and shoes on.

Will see how it goes this week, trip to physio on tuesday. hopefully out on thurs but will have to take it easy and it's not easy to do that at Kilnsey!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy!

Early posting today as I'm chilling out at home after four consecutive weekends out on the trot. Didn't really do anything this week as I've had a cold and a really hectic work schedule. Just been keeping up with physio exercises for my shoulder which is on the mend.

Hopefully better next week. No chance of over-training here!

In reply to AJM:
I think the theory is that my fingures are so weak that if I do intense training on them I will get a pulley. So it is best for them to get a bit stronger first by c then get on a fingerboard.

STG (August):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Set up a beastmaker at home - Removing as a goal
Onsight E1
MTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
LTG March 2011
TBC ..

Last weeks goals:
Climbing at the weekend on rock. Tick three crags two types of rock
At least two sessions Tick

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rokt 4.5 hours. Warmed up then spent some time moving on steep ground to increase my finger strength. did a few steep traversing problems.
Lead wall. climbed up and down a 6a. Then flashed a 6b and down climbed a 5 pumped!! rested then tried to lead a 6b+ on the main overhang did every move but rested on the rope twice. its coming
S: Frogatt. Seconded a HS, VS and HVS all repeats. Repeated a font 6A. Far too hot no friction.
Rubicon worked some problems too tired from the night before to get any further on the 6B's. Repeated the 6A+ three times. Tired and feeble by the end.
S: Caley warmed up on a VS then did two high balls and the weathercame in had to leave
Depot: 2 hours flashed the entire black circuit. mainly worked/flashed the blue purple and pink circuit. Went on the circuit board just too tired.

This weeks goals:
At least two sessions

good week again shame about the weather today just getting phyced to get on something harder.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy, Craig y longridge is brilliant.

STG (by end of 2011): wasted youth, something stupid or similar graded routes at kilnsey.

Mon: Craig y longridge. Similar session to last week but wasnt as successful as I kept forgetting the sequences for the end of the traverses I was trying but still felt like decent training.
Wed: indoor bouldering, was finally at a bouldering wall which was quiet enough to try 4x4s but only managed two full sets before it got too busy. Finished off by doing campus laddering with feet on for 1min then 3mins rest, repeated 5times. I saw this mentioned on UKB as a PE exercise but I had to make it easier because the 2mins on 2mins rest version killed me after one set!
Fri: more indoor bouldering. Did problems at my limit then more PE stuff on the campus board. Campus stuff was much easier as the footholds were not as far under the board as they were on the one I used on wed.

Still haven't done any routing since my time off so not sure how much stamina has been lost but much happier now i've got some strength back and the skin on my fingertips is hardening again.

Annoyingly my motivation for climbing far far exceeds that for injury prevention exercises so I need to get back into the habit of doing them regularly.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

BAck to reality this week and work!

M: Travelling back to London, stopeed off at Malham to have a look around and possible future climbing.
T: Nothing too stiff after weekend.
W: Nothing.
Th: Back in the gym 60 mins on CV work.
F: resistance work mainly arms and shoulders.
S: CV work again 60 mins in gym.
S: CV work 2 hours constant.

Managed to lose a bit more weight. Now down to 84kg from initial 87. Climbing indoors again on Monday, need to get back into it and more frequently. Hoping to lead HS by the end of the year. Hopefully a lighter body will make it a little easier. Still aiming to hit 80kg for now. Aim this week to get along to the Castle at least twice!

In reply to AJM:

Back from fortnight away, think I have 3weeks missed here...

M: Nothing - work.
T: 3.5mile trail run 180m ascent
W: 4.5mile beach/trail run
T: 6mile fell run Sychnant Pass 360m ascent
F: Nothing- work.
S: Travel to IOM. 4mile trail run Sulby River
S: 6mile fell North Barrule from Black Box 460m ascent. Thick cloud/fog.

M: 9mile beach run North from Ramsey
T: 8mile fell run Snaefell from Laxey 580m ascent.
W: 6mile fell run North Barrule from Black Box with a view. 480m ascent.
T: 4.5mile fell run Snaefell/Clagh Ouyr/Snaefell from Bungalow. 550m ascent.
F: 6.5mile fell run Snaefell from Mountain Box. 440m ascent.
S: Travel to England. 3.5mile trail run Cleveland Way Whitby-Saltwick bay and back. 200m ascent.
S: No running - family duties etc.

M: 5mile trail run Cleveland Way S from Whitby 200m ascent.
T: 14mile trail run Cleveland Way Whitby-Robin Hood's Bay-Whitby. 650m ascent.
W: 6mile trail run Cleveland Way S from Whitby again. 300m ascent.
T: 5mile trail run Cleveland Way S from Whitby yet again. 200m ascent.
F: 14mile trail run N Yorks Moors at Goathland Estate/RAF Fylingdale area. 400m ascent.
S: Travel home. 6mile trail run Bryneuryn. 400m ascent.
S: 11mile fell run Sychnant Pass. 600m ascent.

Poor first week, good 2nd week with plenty of fell running and v pleasing 3rd week with lots of trail running and hills. Last 2weeks about 50miles total walking also evenly over most days.

Still have no particular goals at the moment, which may affect motivation again at some stage which def left me for a couple of weeks last month.

In reply to AJM:

The next what, Andy? (Got 10 in the Glen coming up on Saturday and want to do it, but have to say it's not an 'A' race for me like the WHW was and racing's not always my primary motivation anyway!)

A sensible week with enough running to keep that residual fitness ticking over (while recognising that I can't logically have totally recovered from the WHW effort yet) and my first rock climbing since October. Did three HVSs (one led), an E1 and an E1/2 (non-crux pitches led)... obviously a bit rusty and not 100% elegant (am I ever?), but so good to be 'back' when I've been missing it and Ardnamurchan's just such a stunning, feel-good place to go cragging on a nice day. Brief report on the day and rationale for jumping straight onto routes at my top grades (instead of climbing myself in) here, but note still hoping to get a photo to add to that:
http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/ardnamurchan-again.html

M: [23.0] Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
T: [22.0] NTS Glencoe/Meall Mor, 7.3 miles/1,400 ft
W: [26.6] Penstock, 4.6 miles/1,100 ft
T: [25.1] Loch Eilde Mor, 4.8 miles/1,600 ft
F: [22.1] Nothing (could call it 'rest', but not planned as such!)
S: [22.1] Climbing at Ardnamurchan
S: [27.5] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft

Current Goals (still on for 10 in the Glen, but maybe postponing the Rigby?):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June: BUST! (23RD FROM 154 IN 20:44:26)
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)

In reply to AJM: http://andyfromembsay.blogspot.com/2011/07/week-of-bugger-all-then-bit-of-b...

Photo of flip-flop injury here. It involved a non-pissed trip on a step with a metal edge. It hurt.

Anyway - a very bikey week, as you'd expect with 6 stitches in my toe.

M: cycled to work. Only this was starting at our office in Bingley, riding to our place near Sunderland then on over the Wear and under the Tyne to Newcastle. 130miles - just under 8 hours of riding averaging 17mph, £3,500 raised for charity. Grand day out, and as there are no hills between Ripon and Sunderland (FACT) not too bad on the legs (or indeed the toes).
T-S: Nothing
S: as mrs andy was in London watching The Take Thats I didn't expect to do anything, but a surprise child minding offer came in so we whizzed out for a very lumpy 30 miles over to Greenhow Hill and back via Bolton Abbey.

Think I'll be off running for another week, so the intention is to try to get another 100 mile week in on the bike.

In reply to AJM:

Indoor/training priorities

• AnCap - 10-20 move circuits
  
• Regular fingerboarding over the year
  
• Bike odometer record - 503km
  
• Rolling average weight/body fat - 76.6kg 15.7%
  

<STG> - pre-October

• Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall (ticked: 1x Pembroke E2)
  
• Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape. Regular onsight attempts in the 6c-7a bracket, or flash attempts on 6c+-7a+.
  
• Fill in some of the 7b/+ slots on the 7c pyramid. Visit some new venues (inc South Wales and maybe Peak) and get some quick ticks in

<MTG> - 2011

• Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7a+, 2/4 x 7b, 1/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
  
• Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 3x 6c o/s, 6x 6c flash, 1x 6c+ o/s, 2x 7a flash, 1x 7a o/s)
  
• Actually do some DWS this year

<LTG>

• Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  
• E4 onsight
  
• 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
  
• 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

<BHAG>

• Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  
• E5 onsights
  
• 8a/+ redpoint
  
• 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  
• Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Ill
T: Nothing, still not feeling 100%
W: Warehouse, Gloucester. Did a few laps on the boulder as aerocap to warm up (about 100 moves). Then added some new moves at the start of last week's ancap circuit, and tweaked one stopper move to make it a bit less so - changed the 2 finger pocket to a slightly closer 3 finger edge. Had a couple of goes, getting to about move 14 which feels like a good sort of area to be in.
T: Finger a bit sore. TCA in the evening, took it easy, did about 25 or so problems from the V2-3 circuit and a whole bunch of easier problems whilst warming up too. Had a pint later with a super psyched 8c crushing mate, which is good for my psyche too....
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Staple Edge, Forest of Dean sandstone. Different rock type, had a good day out seconding a bunch of awkward routes with cracks and roofs and things, good to test myself out on things I'm rubbish at. Didn't lead anything hard though. Worth a revisit.

Been a bit of a quiet week this week. Active rest, I'm trying to convince myself. Busy week next week but should get a weekend in hopefully, and maybe somehting Mon/Tues too. Weight control has slipped too - I think I'm chalking that up to comfort eating whilst ill and generally having a bit of a week off this week.

Back on the wagon soon hopefully!

A

In reply to AJM: Cheers, that's what I hope - just need to find the right course!

Generally very light week this week, due to a mix of work and other related commitments, a bit of tiredness from last weekend and wanting to taper a little before Ripon. Just an easy cycle early in the week, at least until Saturday.

Sat: Ripon Tri (1500m swim, 41k cycle, 10k run). Swim 29.09, T1 2.49, Cycle 1.19.15, T2 1.23, Run 45.47, Overall 2.38.23

Really rather happy with that. I'd vaguely worked out 2.45 could just go, and had 3hrs as an second target, so was frankly amazed when I realised the time as I crossed the line.

I found the swim quite hard, as the wave I was in pretty much never spread out for the whole 1500m, so it was very difficult to achieve any rhythm without getting punched or kicked every few seconds, especially as I often found my speed was slightly greater than some in front of me, but I couldn't find routes through. I think it may be the only aspect that could put me off tris. Even so, I came out ahead of my predicted time, which I had thought fairly optimistic.

T1 was an awful lot quicker than at Allerthorpe (even if most of the stuff was still saturated from a heavy hail storm an hour or so before the start).

The cycle felt good - generally a decent sustainable pace and effort most of the way around, though the cross wind on one slightly exposed section felt unnerving, and for the last few km straight into it seemed really quite tough to try and hit and hold a decent pace. Even so, I came in at or just ahead of my target pace (I'd vaguely suggested 1.20ish/30kph), so was quite happy.

T2 was again fairly quick, though I did stop to drink a good few mouthfuls at this point. Despite drinking a fair amount whilst cycling, the breeze and pace had stopped me realising just how warm it had become, and how much fluid I'd lost.

This did lead to a relatively weak run. I was still overtaking loads of people on this section (triathletes seem to run slower than I'd expect given the cycle and swim times), I felt I was struggling, partly from brick effects but mainly from mild dehydration. During the run I probably drank at a higher frequency than I ever have during any run - taking on water twice in a 10k.

Despite this, I came in well ahead of my vague pre-race targets. It's even started making me wonder how reasonable it would be to crack 2.30 with a decent run (relies on working on hydration strategy), a little more pace on the bike, and just getting a bit more experienced in dealing with the scrum that is a mass start swim. It would still require a decent amount of effort to get there, but it does seem a lot more feasible than it did before the weekend.

I'll probably have another fairly light week, again due to work etc. I'll probably also take the time to decide on what races to enter over the next few months, as I currently have little booked before November. So in a week or two I'll make the decision about which way to focus training in the short and medium term, but at the moment I think it may be nice to have a little lack of structure, and a bit of general recovery time.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy

All my focus is towards the Chester Marathon in October.

M - 4 mile very easy run.
T - Rochdale 10k, tough course started really well on sub 39 minute schedule including worst hill, then had terrible stomach problems, had to walk at one point, 41:09.
W - recce of Bull Hill Fell Race, great fun, 8 miles 1400'.
T - steady 6 mile run.
F - rest.
S - 13 miles 2000' fell and trail run, not quite the same as a long road run, but a pleasant alternative.
S - no run, but did the guided walk across Morecambe Bay as a bit of a recce of the HM I am doing across the bay in two weeks time.

Generally a good week, enjoyed the running except the race, I think I have already learnt from that one.

In reply to The New NickB:

m: 9 mile fell run, 700m ascent, very tired.
t: tried hill reps, dropped out due to tiredness.
w: 8.5 mile trail run, Pen Lleyn, very tired
t: lunch: 5.5 mile 6:30 min miles, still feeling tired. pm: 5 mile fell run, 500m ascent, Lliwedd
f; rest, well game of golf
s: Ras Yr Aran, 11 miles, 3000ft ascent. British champs, 36th OK mega tired.
s: 4 am guiding on Crib Goch, 6am: run back from Ogwen over Glyders. then drive to Brighton

Not a good week, raced too much, 5 big races in 5 weeks, almost 100 miles of racing and feeling it, need to lay off, nice steady week of mileage on roads down south.

In reply to AJM:


Thanks Andy, I don't feel that my this trad climb was such a great achievement. Perhaps the crux was "spicy" but the route was totally safe. As I've been doing almost exclusively sport climbing, I really found it easy to approach the route in sport climbing mode, and then knocking off a 7a doesn't seem like such a big event. But I think it was a pretty good indicator of how I'd like to climb, (mostly sport and bouldering with the odd safe but hard trad route).

This has been a fairly typical week.

Tue- Sport slab climbing (nothing hard but this is a major weakness of mine)
Thur- Climbing in Luhti didn't get much done, 6c RP. Came pretty close on the onsight go but misread the sequence between the last bolt and the chain.
Sat - Members' Bouldering competition. I managed 8 out of the 13 problems. Not sure where I came. I noticed a weakness in pushing moves on volumes and a strength in small positive crimpers. Most of the 8 that I could do I managed in my first or second go. Not sure if this is an indication of good reading that I got them so quickly or poor stamina that I wasn't able to work more problems.
Sun - Bouldering. There were a lot of new routes up. No training but I got a really good work out trying to flash as much as possible.

I'm feeling pretty sore after two days bouldering. I think I'll only have two climbing days this week as we should have visitors. One gym day and a possible trip to Lammi for onsighting.

Cheers AJM.

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: 4m run
T: 3xDB complex, BM (pull-ups & max hangs), core & theraband
W: 4m run
T: 40l swim
F: rest
S: bouldering at the churnet
S: 3xDB complex, 4m run & theraband

Poor week of training but good to get out on Sat, shame I didn't get up anything new! Feel like I am stagnating a bit at the moment, but will hopefully improve after this weeks is over at work (maybe). Managed 3 runs this week without the knee playing up too much.

In reply to AJM: thanks andy.

nothing to report unfortunately. other areas of my life are taking up too much time at present - this needs to change. back to doing heel drops religiously - will try a short run in the week.

In reply to AJM:
Not one of the all-time great weeks really!

Mon – Rest.
Tues – Rest.
Wedns – Bouldered up to V2/black for about an hour before landing badly on my lower back. No real harm done, but it was the end of this week’s climbing…
Thurs – Rest.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Visiting friends.
Sun – Visiting friends.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Hope you're feeling better soon.
Don't be jealous. At the moment life is full on stress. It'll be worth it in about a month though.

Get yourself to Chorro. I will have some fitness by then and might be able to keep up with you :0)

Only 1 session this week but got another 7A done at the Bowderstone ( crack superdirect ). I then tried to have a go at Statstick. By this time it was so dark Jonny was having to point where the holds were. It feels like it should go next time when i can see.

My main plan over the next week or so is to drop weight as much as i can. I'm not going to gain much strength before Spain but if i can shed the last few pounds i am still carrying it might see me get 7B - and i can get a 6 pack for the beach in Spain.

Should get out at least twice this week. I want to do Statstick and work Ears of Perception and Picnic Sarcastic. I have kept off Picnic as it damaged my finger. It's been March since i was on it so i'll be interested to see how it goes.I am hoping i will get it this week.

Then i need to fit in at least 2 trips to St Bees (Hueco Crack cave start and The Arete ) and 1 to Eskdale ( Strong Arete ) before going back to the Bowder and crushing Ears.

16 days and counting before we leave.

Thank you AJM

Well, I finished Ironman Austria in 13 hours 27 minutes (swim (2.4 miles) 1:24:10, bike (112 miles) 7:02:12, run (26.2 miles) 4:41:44, (T1 11:09, T2 7:45)).

Actually, a lot of that was a lot of fun (don't tell anyone...) Swimming in a nice warm lake with 2800 other people in the early morning was amazing - I was just going nice and steady, so I didn't really have the "biff" issues that Liam describes. There was loads of support on the bike course, especially one climb where everyone was yelling you on like you were in the Tour de France - even when I was on the second lap (of 2) there were still people out clapping and making a noise, even though we were obviously the back markers. Plenty of support on the run too, and the finish in an Ironman is something else - I took my time to enjoy that, too.

Halfway through the bike I could quite cheerfully have got off as I was getting quite sore but I took some ibuprofen and that sorted it. I took the 1st 20k of the run nice and steadily and felt so good that I rather overcooked the 3rd 10k, with the result that the last 10k or so was hard - but I did run most of it (it is usual to walk the aid stations, especially if you are slower, which I did).

Anyway, done. Box ticked. I cannot see myself doing another one - not in a "never again" sense, but just that there are other things I want to do with my time. I need to decide on aims and targets for the next few months, but they will definitely include some days on the hill and some climbing as well. There is a Middle Distance triathlon in 5 weeks time that I would like to do, but the general advice seems to be that that is quite close to an Ironman in terms of recovery.

I had a look at last week's thread - thank you Liam and well done on your Oly, and petestack, the thought of running from Milingavie to Fort William makes my mind boggle, so we're quits!

In reply to AJM:
STG:
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(3), 10*e1(7)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Hypertrophy (1/3)(1/3)

Mon: Weights -Arms & Shoulders.
Tue: Repeaters (65). Core(348).
Wed: Push-ups & Pull-ups (183).
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V3,V3). Repeaters (28).
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Rest. -Friends visiting
Sun: Tippler & Desperation @ Stanage. Repeaters (67).

A bit light on the training this week due to a bit of a cold & having friends to stay.

Did the Tippler & Desperation on Saturday which were my LTGs last year (never found the courage to get on 'em). I always imagined these two routes would be good test pieces of my ability at e1. I found Desperation reasonably (& enjoyably) straight forward. I found Tippler a bit more like a day in the office but really liked the crux rock over.

Very motivated to try e3 before the year ends (Black Hawk Bastion, Time for Tea, Tippler Direct or The Asp). Just have to hope that on one of my climbing days the planets align themselves in the right way so I get up one.

Decided I haven't got a clue about hypertrophy training. I always prioritize repeaters & VIR for hypertrophy but think repeaters are probably more PE & not sure my VIR routes are specific enough. I'm going to try heavy finger rolls & some of the stuff mentioned here http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=251192.

STG: 3 core sessions. Try some new hypertrophy exercises.
MTG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM

STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 7lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 4lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 6lbs

S - 6k & 400m walk, 1W
S - 7k & 340m walk, 1W
M - 18k & 1212m walk, 7W
T - Rest
W - 5k & 300m walk, 1W and 8k & 270m run
T - 6k & 260m walk, 1W
F - 3.5k & 300m, 1W
S - Rest
S - Rest

Nice week with the family in the Lakes. However that meant lots of short walks. We got one good day in, up around Coniston Old Man, Dow Crag (looks like amazing climbing) and Wetherlam. Ate and drank too much tho. Currently dithering over doing a local fell race at the weekend or going climbing if the weather is ok. Would love to do both, but the wife won't let me.

First run in a very long time. Heel is fully healed and going to get back into the swing of things this week.

In reply to AJM: Not much happened to be honest this week. A run and some core strengthening.

M - Nothing
Tu - 5 Mile run
W - Nothing
Th - Core work
Sa - Nothing
Su - Nothing

I've got the (controversial) 3 peaks challenge coming up (next Fri.), so I'm reluctant to do anything that might injure me. It'd be a load of training for nothing if I did injure myself…..that's my excuse anyway!

In reply to fimm:

Fantastic, fimm... and promise my mind's still boggling more at your Ironman than yours at my wee run!

In reply to AJM: First of all I should explain that I'm on a different (Bulgarian) computer and as well as having forgotten my password I'm unable to find the symbol that I use for the l in my username :P
Secondly, I've been absent for the past two weeks just because I hadn't been doing much climbing so it seemed a bit pointless to post. HOWEVER, I'm now in Bulgaria until the start of August and will be climbing for the majority of it so it's time to make my return.

Last week we went to a place called Vratsa for a couple of days. I didn't do loads of climbing because there wasn't much easy stuff and I was out of shape but I redpointed a pumpy 6b+ (need to work on endurance). I also injured my finger slightly but I've been taping it and it's been ok to climb on (I won't be using it for pockets though).
The past two days we went to a place called Karlukovski gorge, which is probably the most incredible place I've ever been to. I did a 6a/+ to warm up, failed to onsight (and didn't bother to repeat) a steep, pumpy 6c but cleaned a less steep 7a on my first redpoint. I should probably actually have flashed it but there was a minor issue in the bulgarian-english translation of some beta and I ended up falling off.
To conclude, it's been an awesome trip so far (pretty much everyone I've met climbs 8a and above so I don't have to look too far for inspiration) and my aims are to not get injured further and to find more of the not-so-steep hard routes to work on.

In reply to petestack:

Thank you
and you were going for 7 hours longer than I was...

Two weeks, one of final preparation for the Alps, then the big week.

Had a great time, did more rock rather than snow routes than expected, and felt suprisingly good on some run-out bolted routes. Bouldering seemed to have helped here. Felt I coped with a busy week without much rest pretty well.

A bit of rest, them set some goals for the rest of the year.

M:
T:
W: Ran 5 miles
T: Ran 4.5 miles
F: Bouldered at Curbar (repeated a V4)
S: Travel
S: Long multipitch 6b (Snoopy Direct)


M: Walk into hut
T: 12 pitch moutain 6a up to 3100 m peak (Viste Obligatore) - justified the last 6 months effort!
W: Light single pitch sport
T: Walk into hut
F: AD ridge traverse in big boots - the practise in Wales came in!
S: 8 pitch pseudo trad route (the Fissure)
S: 8 pitch sport 6a route (Cascade Blues)


STG: Ecrins: Meije Traverse + Arete Costa Rouge/Less chossy alternative - July 2nd onwards - Target setting in the alps is tough! On reflection the Meije summit was a more realistic target, but would have needed a longer stay, and more stable weather to het it done

MTG: Identify some local boudldering and sport routes to work towards
LTG: ?

In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
Not the best of weeks.
Monday was a trip to the usual wall, it was hot and I was knackered so it proved to be uninspiring, soft 6b+ on t/r onsight was the highlight. Thursday I went again and had what was probably the worst session of the year, felt clumsy and weak, wrist not so cleaver either. Saturday I did a steady home session going easy on the wrist, core workout. Hard to pick and positives out of the week, can’t all be good I guess. Roll on next week

STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s (tick) and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘s

In reply to fimm:
Well done again.


As you've done a few more tris than me, does this element ever get better in the shorter races, or is pretty much standard for sprints and olympics to expect 15-30mins of being accidentally beaten up? Have you any tricks you've developed to deal with it? It could almost be tempting to miss-report an expected time in the hope you could swim off the front of a slower group.

In reply to AJM: Hmmm, trying hard to remember what I did last week! Think it went something along the lines of,

Mon - okay, so I can still be bothered with climbing Too sunny a day for indoors even if RB was wanting to train for a comp. Far too depressing to be stuck inside so we went for some outdoors bolt clipping at the local quarry. I was bricking it having not climbed in so long so started off on a 3 and a 4. But decided it would be boring climbing the same old easy stuff so I got out the clipstick and clipped the first bolt on a 6b. Too scary to commit to it though so my partner led it and I tried it on toprope. Got to the top after sussing the crux. My first ever 6b and I'm sure I can lead this once I've played about with the crux a couple of times and that will be one of my goals ticked

Tue - 6.5 mile hill run up Cairn Kerloch. This was really hard! The uphill was mega steep and rough under foot and I ended up walking a lot of the ups. It was also meant to be a longer run but I messed up by turning the Garmin on after 10mins into my run and it kept telling me I was getting further and further away from my course so it was confusing me, so I just decided to follow my nose.

Wed - went to Ratho. Did a few 5's and 5+'s, a 6a and failed on a 6b (couldn't reach a hold over a move no matter how I tried it)

Thurs - 3mile run. First mile was fast for me, 7mins 40 secs. second mile was slower and more my average at 8mins and 12secs. But I think that fast 1st mile hurt as my shins were really painful on the 3rd mile uphill home and I had to stop and walk for 30 secs twice

Fri - nothing, driving up to Inverlochlarig

Sat - 9hrs on the hill near Crianlarich. Bagged Ben Tuleachian, Cruach Ardrain, Ben More and Stob Binnein.

Sun - weather a bit grim so didn't go up our planned hill. Drove up to the Far North instead and dossed at the South side of Loch Hope.

Hold over a roof that should be on Wednesday, not hold over a move!

In reply to Liam M:
Thank you


I'm not sure I can be of much help from personal experience, as my swimming was very poor (35 minutes for 1500m OW...) so my strategy tended to be "start at the back and stay there"; also the local races I've done don't tend to have particularly big fields. Even at Bala, earlier this year, when I was swimming a bit faster, I didn't find the biff in the swim particularly notable (and there we had another wave coming up behind us as well as the wave I was in). (All the wave starts I've done have been by age group and gender, not time - obviously pool sprints are different but I don't think you are asking about those.)

However I get the impression that "15-30mins of being accidentally beaten up" is about right for open water swimming if you are in the middle of the bunch. Strategies seem to be either of the MTFU variety or to try and swim a bit wider if you can. In Austria if I felt I was getting tangled up in someone I was able to move to the side or slow down - my only aim was to finish, I didn't care too much about time (in fact I even stopped in the middle of the lake to enjoy the view!!!) Sorry not to be more help.

In reply to AJM:

I wasn't absent I just replied really late!

Anyway an absolutely cool week in Wales.
Quite restricted because it was a military course, but I was allowed to lead a soft E2, and seconded Dream of White Horses and Vector.

In the evenings I had a look at Parisellas (just managed a V3 and V4)
Lead Sterling Silver E2 5c
Lead Comes the Dervish E3 5c

Saturday - dirty old 3 miles run, felling very unfit!

Cheers,
Dan

In reply to AJM:

Aye Andy, I spotted many potential new lines, and entire crags!

By Sept 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham or Kilnsey?

By end 2011
8a

Last week aimed to target power and PE.

M - Bouldering @ Castle. Felt tired but eventually ticked Features Yellow V7. Only the steep Blue(V6?) to go to complete set.
T - rest
W - Campus @ Castle. First in 3 months. 33% success 1-3-6/1-4-6 on bigs.
T - Bouldering and circuits @ Arch. Ticked some harder problems and started to build into a beast 80 move circuit that we reckon may be around 8a?
F - rest
S - Campus @ Castle. Close to being back to 1-4-6/1-3-6 on med rungs
S - Bouldering @ Castle. Very tired and skin sore session. Repeats to V5 and new probs to V4.

A decent week, pleased with the V7, though it may be soft or just knacky. Good to be able to be back on the campus board too. Surprisingly psyched for something as droll as going round and round a bouldering wall with this circuit. Decided to call it Superdoopercool! Sad, but got to have psyche to be able train...

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Yeah, I did see that albeit a bit late - the way I work usually is I tend to write the stats on a different day (Saturday morning I think last week, but either way before your post) and then post them before I leave the house/tent/hut Sunday morning, so I often don't have the time to double check the thread for updates after I've done the writing.

So yeah, sorry, failure in the process I reckon.

Andy

In reply to AJM:

No problem Andy, thanks for your time each week

Dan

In reply to AJM:

What was the Forest of Dean crag like? I went up there one wet autumn day and couldn't even find one of the main crags!

In reply to seankenny:

I thought it was pretty good actually, definitely plan to return. Straight Sandstone rather than the pebbledash conglomerate stuff in Martins guide, big tree cover means it survived showers, routes are good. My favourite was the horned one (E1, though if you graded it soft E2 I don't think many in our party would have argues hard) which my friend led - mega fun.

In reply to AJM:

The pictures on here make it look quite good.

Never went back to find the pebbledashy stuff...

In reply to AJM:

Ill sneak this in. (I'm in the process of moving house so internet is quite hard to come by at the moment.)

M-Rest
T-Panty-Didn't send any significant, still knackered from the weekend.
W-Rest
T-Rest
F-Training
S-Work
S-Work