UKC

Ice climbs between Kinlochleven and Blackwater dam?

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 Iwan 01 Jul 2012
Does the River Leven or any of its tributaries ever come into condition? If so, are the routes mentioned in any of the guide books?
 Andy Nisbet 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Iwan:

KINLOCHLEVEN:
Little Canada 150m III *. Colin Wells, Penny Clay (alt). 31 Dec 2009.
The streams which descend from Coire an t-Sionnaich coalesce into a larger body of water in a small wooded ravine below about 350m which debouches into Loch Leven. Start at a small bridge at NN 1756175. Follow the stream over a series of small bulges until a larger waterfall presents itself. Climb this (25m III), the left side being slightly steeeper than the right. The stream carries on above but at very easy angle so walk off to the left and descend to the road.

Iced Jem 80m II. James Hatfield, Kate Drugan. 3 Jan 2010.
A frozen stream which falls in steps down a gully. NN 163 636. Approach from parking at the McDonald hotel, along the West Highland Way and 15mins up from the path (1hr). Short vertical ice formations interspersed by less steep ice and neve. After a 35m pitch, a good 50m pitch with the crux at the very top.

 AlH 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Iwan: A number of the tribs have been climbed in the past as have some line above the military hostel. Fraser Coleman a Mountaineering Instructor who used to live in Kinlochleven climbed many of these lines when he was local.
 Jamie B 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Iwan:

The Leven itself doesnt really have any steep enough falls to provide ice-climbing, and there would normally be too heavy a flow to properly freeze it. Some of the tributaries might give you something in a super-cold winter, but nothing is recorded. The streams on the north side of Garbheinn, on the other side of the village do freeze occasionally and give good sport. The most commonly-climbed fall is the one that goes under the road where it starts to level out - about III/IV depending on line taken.
 Davy Gunn 15 Jul 2012
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
> (In reply to Iwan)
>
> KINLOCHLEVEN:
> Little Canada 150m III *. Colin Wells, Penny Clay (alt). 31 Dec 2009.
> The streams which descend from Coire an t-Sionnaich coalesce into a larger body of water in a small wooded ravine below about 350m which debouches into Loch Leven. Start at a small bridge at NN 1756175. Follow the stream over a series of small bulges until a larger waterfall presents itself. Climb this (25m III), the left side being slightly steeeper than the right. The stream carries on above but at very easy angle so walk off to the left and descend to the road.
>
> Iced Jem 80m II. James Hatfield, Kate Drugan. 3 Jan 2010.
> A frozen stream which falls in steps down a gully. NN 163 636. Approach from parking at the McDonald hotel, along the West Highland Way and 15mins up from the path (1hr). Short vertical ice formations interspersed by less steep ice and neve. After a 35m pitch, a good 50m pitch with the crux at the very top.

Little Canada was climbed by me 15 years ago and several times since, and has had dozens of ascents before and after when there's a low level freeze. Just about every smear near the road including a couple of very long ones on the Pap of Glencoe as well.
 Andy Nisbet 15 Jul 2012
In reply to Young Fox:
>
> Little Canada was climbed by me 15 years ago and several times since, and has had dozens of ascents before and after when there's a low level freeze. Just about every smear near the road including a couple of very long ones on the Pap of Glencoe as well.

I only know what I'm told. Please tell Mr Kennedy (Studge on here) who's writing the next guide.

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