In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I might be wrong, but I get the feeling that Tyler's days as a fulltime climber followed the "I just climbing on rock and hang out with my friends" style. Haven't seen Between the Trees, but I remember Dosage V, he was in the Ozarks and it all looked pretty relaxed.
So, I wouldn't be surprised if he managed to keep that level (or even increase it) by "climbing around" less while, conversely, training intensively and in a structured way more. He's obviously very talented and he was starting from a pretty damn good point. Plus he probably doesn't need to train endurance as much (whilst it's a must for competition lead climbers, for instance), which probably cuts the time needed for training drastically.
Either way, I'm happy to seem him in the headlines, he is one of my very favourite British climbers.
Post edited at 20:07