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I travel quite a bit with work, so get the chance to grab a couple of hours here and there at various walls. When not travelling much I mostly climb around the NW and like places like the Climbing Hangar, Awesome Stockport and Warrington. Conversely I've struggled to get on with the new Beacon in Caernarvon compared to the old one.
Any tips on really good walls and ones to avoid when travelling round.
Cheers.
Any tips on really good walls and ones to avoid when travelling round.
Cheers.
In reply to chubbs2:
If you head over to the North East, within a five minute walk of each other in Newcastle are...
Dont miss:
http://www.climbnewcastle.com
Grotty building, housing an excellent bouldering wall. Great staff, nice vibe.
Dont bother:
http://www.newcastleclimbingcentre.co.uk
Lovely building housing what could be a really nice little wall, unfortunately spoiled by piss-poor route setting.
If you head over to the North East, within a five minute walk of each other in Newcastle are...
Dont miss:
http://www.climbnewcastle.com
Grotty building, housing an excellent bouldering wall. Great staff, nice vibe.
Dont bother:
http://www.newcastleclimbingcentre.co.uk
Lovely building housing what could be a really nice little wall, unfortunately spoiled by piss-poor route setting.
In reply to deepsoup:
Dont bother http://www.theboulderbunker.com/ do bother http://www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk/
also worth a look http://www.dartrock.co.uk/
Dont bother http://www.theboulderbunker.com/ do bother http://www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk/
also worth a look http://www.dartrock.co.uk/
In reply to chubbs2:
Have you tried the boardroom yet? It's just the other side of Chester so is probably in your local patch. Good bouldering area, plus psicoblock if you fancy something a little different.
Mike.
Have you tried the boardroom yet? It's just the other side of Chester so is probably in your local patch. Good bouldering area, plus psicoblock if you fancy something a little different.
Mike.
If you're NW you need to at least try the two brand new walls: Boardroom at Deeside (which is great) and BE Widnes (which I've not been to yet).
In reply to chubbs2:
Ton Randall's Climbing Station in Loughborough is my favourite modern bouldering wall.
Ton Randall's Climbing Station in Loughborough is my favourite modern bouldering wall.
In reply to chubbs2:
The big problem with the Beacon is that the mats might as well be concrete.
Went to Boulder Central in Brum a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed with the size of the place, the quality of the problems and the range of grades (a lot of walls fall into the trap of having a few easy routes then everything else really hard).
Neil
The big problem with the Beacon is that the mats might as well be concrete.
Went to Boulder Central in Brum a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed with the size of the place, the quality of the problems and the range of grades (a lot of walls fall into the trap of having a few easy routes then everything else really hard).
Neil
In reply to chubbs2:
Don't Miss: I'll put in a second vote for Boulder Central, it has a really nice atmosphere and the quantity and quality of routes was good even when they just opened.
Don't Miss: I tried The Project in Poole yesterday and was quite impressed considering its brand new and was set up on a seriously small budget. The problems were excellent and it just needs a bit of a cash injection to make it look a little more 'finished'. The owner even tried to give Mrs Dandan her entry fee back because she didn't end up climbing, I thought that was very nice.
Don't Bother: Creation in Birmingham is the grottiest wall I have ever been to, I've not bouldered much there so can't fairly comment on the quality but the atmosphere was so depressing that I wouldn't return just because of that.
Don't Miss: I'll put in a second vote for Boulder Central, it has a really nice atmosphere and the quantity and quality of routes was good even when they just opened.
Don't Miss: I tried The Project in Poole yesterday and was quite impressed considering its brand new and was set up on a seriously small budget. The problems were excellent and it just needs a bit of a cash injection to make it look a little more 'finished'. The owner even tried to give Mrs Dandan her entry fee back because she didn't end up climbing, I thought that was very nice.
Don't Bother: Creation in Birmingham is the grottiest wall I have ever been to, I've not bouldered much there so can't fairly comment on the quality but the atmosphere was so depressing that I wouldn't return just because of that.
Post edited at 16:28
In reply to chubbs2:
Dont miss - Prestatyn leisure centre, routes changed often, friendly staff, nice atmos, cheap!
Dont miss - Prestatyn leisure centre, routes changed often, friendly staff, nice atmos, cheap!
If your in the area & dont like the Beacon then check out the revamped Indy.
Or if a little further south the one in Harlech is ok for climbing, bouldering is a little limited.
Or if a little further south the one in Harlech is ok for climbing, bouldering is a little limited.
In reply to Otis:
The Boardroom is on my "don't other" list.
Short lead walls - nasty sharp holds - condensation on the holds in the lead area and they let Vickers go mad on the vert stuff with his mega rock-over style of setting.
The psicobloc is a gimmick too.
The Boardroom is on my "don't other" list.
Short lead walls - nasty sharp holds - condensation on the holds in the lead area and they let Vickers go mad on the vert stuff with his mega rock-over style of setting.
The psicobloc is a gimmick too.
In reply to chubbs2:
Don't miss: City Bloc in Leeds. It's not the biggest of walls but the problems are really well set and everyone is super friendly. Plus it's really well lit and clean so you never get the problem of not being able to see which holds are on your problem.
Don't bother: Kendal Wall. I don't know if I just went on a bad day but I found the setting poor, the starts/finishes to problems unclear and the whole place was a bit grimy and dark. It's a shame as they've got loads of room and the potential for a great facility but I wouldn't go back for the bouldering again, though I definitely would for the routes.
Don't miss: City Bloc in Leeds. It's not the biggest of walls but the problems are really well set and everyone is super friendly. Plus it's really well lit and clean so you never get the problem of not being able to see which holds are on your problem.
Don't bother: Kendal Wall. I don't know if I just went on a bad day but I found the setting poor, the starts/finishes to problems unclear and the whole place was a bit grimy and dark. It's a shame as they've got loads of room and the potential for a great facility but I wouldn't go back for the bouldering again, though I definitely would for the routes.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Each to their own I guess! A few of the holds do have cheese grater properties-but mainly due to them being brand new. Beats trying to climb on some ancient polished lump you can't tell the colour of I guess
Not sure what's gimmicky about the psicoblock, but I've certainly found the staff are willing to take comments on board when it comes to route setting (although not sure they can do much about the roof heights unfortunately!)
> The Boardroom is on my "don't other" list.
> Short lead walls - nasty sharp holds - condensation on the holds in the lead area and they let Vickers go mad on the vert stuff with his mega rock-over style of setting.
> The psicobloc is a gimmick too.
Each to their own I guess! A few of the holds do have cheese grater properties-but mainly due to them being brand new. Beats trying to climb on some ancient polished lump you can't tell the colour of I guess
Not sure what's gimmicky about the psicoblock, but I've certainly found the staff are willing to take comments on board when it comes to route setting (although not sure they can do much about the roof heights unfortunately!)
In reply to chubbs2:
Don't miss: Eden rock in Carlisle. Amazing setting with bright, friendly atmosphere. Best bouldering wall I've ever been to.
Don't miss: Eden rock in Carlisle. Amazing setting with bright, friendly atmosphere. Best bouldering wall I've ever been to.
In reply to Dervey:
Not forgetting the innovative use of wood.
roof could be bigger though.
> Don't miss: Eden rock in Carlisle. Amazing setting with bright, friendly atmosphere. Best bouldering wall I've ever been to.
Not forgetting the innovative use of wood.
roof could be bigger though.
In reply to chubbs2:
In my humble opinion the climbing hangar in Liverpool is the best bouldering wall in the UK. The works in Sheffield and tca Glasgow are both also good.
In my humble opinion the climbing hangar in Liverpool is the best bouldering wall in the UK. The works in Sheffield and tca Glasgow are both also good.
In reply to chubbs2:
In the east midlands:
Dont miss: depot Nottingham, climbing station Loughborough (these two the best), awesome walls stoke, and hopefully the new bouldering wall in Derby soon??
Dont bother: none - alter rock (Derby) and just about Wirksworth are worth a visit if you're in the area but not as good as the above.
Si
In the east midlands:
Dont miss: depot Nottingham, climbing station Loughborough (these two the best), awesome walls stoke, and hopefully the new bouldering wall in Derby soon??
Dont bother: none - alter rock (Derby) and just about Wirksworth are worth a visit if you're in the area but not as good as the above.
Si
In reply to Otis:
Personally I've found the lead routes at the Boardroom to be very variable in quality and rely a lot on 'smear and grab' but generally the bouldering is excellent. The Psicobloc thing is really useful for training endurance if you are on your own, but I'm not sure it's the best use of the space available for the majority of climbers going there.
Personally I've found the lead routes at the Boardroom to be very variable in quality and rely a lot on 'smear and grab' but generally the bouldering is excellent. The Psicobloc thing is really useful for training endurance if you are on your own, but I'm not sure it's the best use of the space available for the majority of climbers going there.
In reply to chubbs2:
It's way down south but if ever anyones nearby I can totally recommend Boulder Brighton.
It's way down south but if ever anyones nearby I can totally recommend Boulder Brighton.
Post edited at 09:31
In reply to chubbs2:
Don't miss - Climbing Station in Loughborough (fortunately, close to me)
Don't bother - Awesome in Stoke. Last time I went holds were uniformly black and the staff didn't much care when I complained.
Don't miss - Climbing Station in Loughborough (fortunately, close to me)
Don't bother - Awesome in Stoke. Last time I went holds were uniformly black and the staff didn't much care when I complained.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Agreed.
Craggy Island 2: Superb bouldering - brilliant setting (stiff grades!)
Craggy Island 1: Very good too
White Spider: Good ropes, lots of bouldering but mediocre setting
Surrey University: Don't bother
Surrey Sports Park: Meh, didn't really rate the setting
> It's way down south but if ever anyones nearby I can totally recommend Boulder Brighton.
Agreed.
Craggy Island 2: Superb bouldering - brilliant setting (stiff grades!)
Craggy Island 1: Very good too
White Spider: Good ropes, lots of bouldering but mediocre setting
Surrey University: Don't bother
Surrey Sports Park: Meh, didn't really rate the setting
In reply to Ava Adore:
Agree about AW stoke being dirty. It was also woefully understaffed last time we went, my mates had to wait an hour for a toastie each. Woeful. However, it has lots of good climbing.
Down soutg, calshot is great for routes but dont bother for bouldering. Ditto craggy island guildford. Also wouldnt bother with amersham or peterborough, although its almost 10 years since I visited.
Agree about AW stoke being dirty. It was also woefully understaffed last time we went, my mates had to wait an hour for a toastie each. Woeful. However, it has lots of good climbing.
Down soutg, calshot is great for routes but dont bother for bouldering. Ditto craggy island guildford. Also wouldnt bother with amersham or peterborough, although its almost 10 years since I visited.
In reply to chubbs2:
Eastside:
The Lock, Harlow - not really worth it just for bouldering, more of a leading venue. The bouldering's rather short and a bit limited.
Big Rock, Milton Keynes - good bouldering, plus a couple of auto-belay thingies too. Nice cafe.
Kelsey Kerridge, Cambridge - small and busy, but otherwise pretty good quality and relatively cheap. Worth it if you're in the area.
London:
Castle and Biscuit Factory very good, although the Castle's pretty pricey. Mile End and Westway probably also worth a punt although it's been a while since I went to either.
Eastside:
The Lock, Harlow - not really worth it just for bouldering, more of a leading venue. The bouldering's rather short and a bit limited.
Big Rock, Milton Keynes - good bouldering, plus a couple of auto-belay thingies too. Nice cafe.
Kelsey Kerridge, Cambridge - small and busy, but otherwise pretty good quality and relatively cheap. Worth it if you're in the area.
London:
Castle and Biscuit Factory very good, although the Castle's pretty pricey. Mile End and Westway probably also worth a punt although it's been a while since I went to either.
In reply to chubbs2:
Oswestry Wall deserves a mention on the list and a visit if you are in the area.
Routes are regularly changed and well set. Steve Sustad uses it, the
climbers are all friendly and the owner is knowledgeable and friendly.
Worth a visit if you are in the area.
Oswestry Wall deserves a mention on the list and a visit if you are in the area.
Routes are regularly changed and well set. Steve Sustad uses it, the
climbers are all friendly and the owner is knowledgeable and friendly.
Worth a visit if you are in the area.
In reply to chubbs2:
just been working in glasgow and have to say the climbing academy wall is super - well set problems, even at the easier grades, staff very friendly, place warm enough not to freeze to death, and a nice mix of climbers. ratho, by contrast, was wet and freezing inside and has no atmosphere - such a wasted opportunity. agree with earlier poster about city bloc in leeds - very clever route setting, some of the best problems around.
just been working in glasgow and have to say the climbing academy wall is super - well set problems, even at the easier grades, staff very friendly, place warm enough not to freeze to death, and a nice mix of climbers. ratho, by contrast, was wet and freezing inside and has no atmosphere - such a wasted opportunity. agree with earlier poster about city bloc in leeds - very clever route setting, some of the best problems around.
In reply to john yates:
Alien 2 in Edinburgh is really good. It's warm, friendly and small enough for a good atmosphere and it has a good selection of wall angles with lots of routes set on them. The surface is good for smearing and has moulded features and there's a nice cave area which usually has some interesting long traverses over the roof and up onto a vertical wall with free space under your feet.
Bouldering at Ratho is quite good. It does suffer from the sheer size of the arena in terms of atmosphere and the arena boulders are cold in winter. They've been working on the roof and the arena boulder area has sometimes been wet recently as a result but I think they are nearly done. There is a separate bouldering room which is warm but relatively small. Outside of winter the arena is really pleasant. The problems are refreshed as a result of competitions and coaching events as well as normal route setting. I definitely wouldn't put Ratho on a 'don't bother with' list for bouldering even though the main focus is clearly routes.
Alien 2 in Edinburgh is really good. It's warm, friendly and small enough for a good atmosphere and it has a good selection of wall angles with lots of routes set on them. The surface is good for smearing and has moulded features and there's a nice cave area which usually has some interesting long traverses over the roof and up onto a vertical wall with free space under your feet.
Bouldering at Ratho is quite good. It does suffer from the sheer size of the arena in terms of atmosphere and the arena boulders are cold in winter. They've been working on the roof and the arena boulder area has sometimes been wet recently as a result but I think they are nearly done. There is a separate bouldering room which is warm but relatively small. Outside of winter the arena is really pleasant. The problems are refreshed as a result of competitions and coaching events as well as normal route setting. I definitely wouldn't put Ratho on a 'don't bother with' list for bouldering even though the main focus is clearly routes.
In reply to chubbs2:
yep, add climbnewcastle and craggy2 to your list of must visits, both excellent.
Even tho its my regular haunt I'd agree white spider setting has been hit and miss but they have gaz parry setting this week which should improve things and we've left them enough feedback so I think they are looking to improve.
craggyIsland was ok, craggy2 is better for pure bouldering.
yep, add climbnewcastle and craggy2 to your list of must visits, both excellent.
Even tho its my regular haunt I'd agree white spider setting has been hit and miss but they have gaz parry setting this week which should improve things and we've left them enough feedback so I think they are looking to improve.
craggyIsland was ok, craggy2 is better for pure bouldering.
check out indy (indefatigable)just over the bridge on Anglesey.
used to be clubs only, but is now apparently open to the public:
http://www.yell.com/biz/the-indy-climbing-wall-llanfairpwllgwyngyll-6373201...
used to be clubs only, but is now apparently open to the public:
http://www.yell.com/biz/the-indy-climbing-wall-llanfairpwllgwyngyll-6373201...
In reply to adamki:
Just for info, if you check that link out the pics are well out of date. They had a major refit late last year & the walls are now very different in a good way.
> check out indy (indefatigable)just over the bridge on Anglesey.
> used to be clubs only, but is now apparently open to the public:
Just for info, if you check that link out the pics are well out of date. They had a major refit late last year & the walls are now very different in a good way.
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:
Thanks, saves me a trip when I'm in town later this month. That single word moves it to "don't bother" for me.
> Alien 2 in Edinburgh ..... It's warm,
Thanks, saves me a trip when I'm in town later this month. That single word moves it to "don't bother" for me.
In reply to chubbs2:
Can't believe no-one has mentioned the Climbing Works (Sheffield). Absolutely brilliant wall with excellent setting and the best comp wall I've been on
Boulder UK (blackburn) is good too. Consistently excellent route setting and re-set regularly. The only thing missing is a campus board. Packs in a lot in a small space.
Rockover (central manchester) is indeed very good, every facility you could need (very good comp wall and decent circuit board incl campus and finger boards etc.)
Avoid: Rochdale wall. Terrible setting, no concern about kids running around the place underneath climbers, limited wall space.
Can't believe no-one has mentioned the Climbing Works (Sheffield). Absolutely brilliant wall with excellent setting and the best comp wall I've been on
Boulder UK (blackburn) is good too. Consistently excellent route setting and re-set regularly. The only thing missing is a campus board. Packs in a lot in a small space.
Rockover (central manchester) is indeed very good, every facility you could need (very good comp wall and decent circuit board incl campus and finger boards etc.)
Avoid: Rochdale wall. Terrible setting, no concern about kids running around the place underneath climbers, limited wall space.
Post edited at 16:08
In reply to winhill:
Absolutely agree, the woodies are superb.
The roof feels plenty long enough for me, I think they used the space well and it's only helped by the fact the setting really makes the most of it. My puny arms barely get me to the end!
I honestly can't rave about this wall enough. Amazing
Absolutely agree, the woodies are superb.
The roof feels plenty long enough for me, I think they used the space well and it's only helped by the fact the setting really makes the most of it. My puny arms barely get me to the end!
I honestly can't rave about this wall enough. Amazing
In reply to chubbs2:
I second the Boulder Central recommendation.
I would also recommend the Birmingham Bouldering Centre in the centre of Birmingham (http://www.birminghamboulderingcentre.com/#home). It has great setting, excellent coffee and a good selection of training equipment.
I would skip the Vertical Limit wall in Worcester unless anything has changed in the last couple of years?
I second the Boulder Central recommendation.
I would also recommend the Birmingham Bouldering Centre in the centre of Birmingham (http://www.birminghamboulderingcentre.com/#home). It has great setting, excellent coffee and a good selection of training equipment.
I would skip the Vertical Limit wall in Worcester unless anything has changed in the last couple of years?
In reply to Eagle River:
Really? Since when?
> Avoid: Rochdale wall. Terrible setting, no concern about kids running around the place underneath climbers, limited wall space.
Really? Since when?
In reply to deepsoup:
Climb Newcastle is my local haunt and has the best setting of any bouldering wall I've been to imo
Climb Newcastle is my local haunt and has the best setting of any bouldering wall I've been to imo
In reply to chubbs2:
I've driven 70 miles from N Wales when I was living there to spend a day at The ClimbingWorks. Glad to be moving back to The Peak next week, and second place in the don't miss, with first place going to The Wave at the The Foundry, totally classic, old skool and brilliant route setting.
Big up to The Boardroom at Queensferry which gets better and better.
So many wet Snowdonia days spent at the old Beacon, sorry to hear the new centre isn't as good. The old bouldering wall was excellent.
I've driven 70 miles from N Wales when I was living there to spend a day at The ClimbingWorks. Glad to be moving back to The Peak next week, and second place in the don't miss, with first place going to The Wave at the The Foundry, totally classic, old skool and brilliant route setting.
Big up to The Boardroom at Queensferry which gets better and better.
So many wet Snowdonia days spent at the old Beacon, sorry to hear the new centre isn't as good. The old bouldering wall was excellent.
In reply to i.munro:
"Warm" in the context of an Edinburgh wall means "warmer than outside" (unlike one venue...) Alien 2 definitely isn't too hot, and has really good route setting.
"Warm" in the context of an Edinburgh wall means "warmer than outside" (unlike one venue...) Alien 2 definitely isn't too hot, and has really good route setting.
In reply to john yates:
Ratho has sometimes been wet recently, but that is because the roof is being replaced. That the roof is being replaced for millions of pounds at tax payers' expense is hardly something we should be moaning about. I also find it extraordinary that boulderers who seem to love icy conditions outside moan abouta little cold at Ratho - just wrap up and warm up FFS. As for the atmosphere, well, if what you mean is that it isn't full of arsy topless boulderers in beanies talking shit, then that's absolutely fine by me.
Bouldering might not be what Ratho's all about and the heated room might have it's faults, but the free standing boulders are actually pretty good.
> Ratho, by contrast, was wet and freezing inside and has no atmosphere - such a wasted opportunity.
Ratho has sometimes been wet recently, but that is because the roof is being replaced. That the roof is being replaced for millions of pounds at tax payers' expense is hardly something we should be moaning about. I also find it extraordinary that boulderers who seem to love icy conditions outside moan abouta little cold at Ratho - just wrap up and warm up FFS. As for the atmosphere, well, if what you mean is that it isn't full of arsy topless boulderers in beanies talking shit, then that's absolutely fine by me.
Bouldering might not be what Ratho's all about and the heated room might have it's faults, but the free standing boulders are actually pretty good.
In reply to chubbs2:
Another vote for The Boardroom in Queensferry. Great atmosphere, excellent (unpolished) routes and genuine nice staff.
Another vote for The Boardroom in Queensferry. Great atmosphere, excellent (unpolished) routes and genuine nice staff.
In reply to chubbs2:
Forgot to mention Broughton crimping at its best not a plastic blob insight err like climbing outside!!!
Forgot to mention Broughton crimping at its best not a plastic blob insight err like climbing outside!!!
In reply to chubbs2:
City Bloc in Leeds has the best routes of any place I've ever been. Inspiring, different, and with a good range of holds that are kept clean. It's the only wall I've ever been to where I can be bothered to repeatedly try at one problem over the course of a month because the climbing is that satisfying. The Bloc's often pretty quiet and everyone is super-friendly.
The Depot, on the other hand, is massive but extremely busy, the holds are dirty or worn out and the routes are dull. Might just be me but I've never got on with it.
City Bloc in Leeds has the best routes of any place I've ever been. Inspiring, different, and with a good range of holds that are kept clean. It's the only wall I've ever been to where I can be bothered to repeatedly try at one problem over the course of a month because the climbing is that satisfying. The Bloc's often pretty quiet and everyone is super-friendly.
The Depot, on the other hand, is massive but extremely busy, the holds are dirty or worn out and the routes are dull. Might just be me but I've never got on with it.
In reply to Mr Fuller:
Judging by how busy it is I think it's just you!
I slightly prefer the setting at City Bloc, but The Depot is a great wall too.
I think the climbers of Leeds are spoiled for choice!
> The Depot, on the other hand, is massive but extremely busy, the holds are dirty or worn out and the routes are dull. Might just be me but I've never got on with it.
Judging by how busy it is I think it's just you!
I slightly prefer the setting at City Bloc, but The Depot is a great wall too.
I think the climbers of Leeds are spoiled for choice!
In reply to chubbs2:
York:
Dont Miss http://www.redgoatclimbing.co.uk/
Great little bouldering wall with a great vibe and great route setters.
Miss http://www.york.gov.uk/info/200300/energise_climbing/439/energise_climbing
Concil run Wall in the middle of the centre next door to the pool so very hot. Poor routes that stay up for months. No vibe what so ever.
York:
Dont Miss http://www.redgoatclimbing.co.uk/
Great little bouldering wall with a great vibe and great route setters.
Miss http://www.york.gov.uk/info/200300/energise_climbing/439/energise_climbing
Concil run Wall in the middle of the centre next door to the pool so very hot. Poor routes that stay up for months. No vibe what so ever.
In reply to slinky wizard:
Is the old Glossop wall still open? That was great. Broughton with the added chance to break your back before plummeting twenty feet onto the badminton court.
Is the old Glossop wall still open? That was great. Broughton with the added chance to break your back before plummeting twenty feet onto the badminton court.
Post edited at 12:27
In reply to AlanLittle:
Gosh the old Glossop wall - had to be careful going for the top with that balcony...which came into its own during aerobics
> (In reply to slinky wizard) Is the old Glossop wall still open? That was great. Broughton with the added chance to break your back before plummeting twenty feet onto the badminton court.
Gosh the old Glossop wall - had to be careful going for the top with that balcony...which came into its own during aerobics
In reply to MeMeMe:
Yeah, you're right. If it was crap then it wouldn't be busy! With the Wall as well Leeds is indeed spoilt.
Yeah, you're right. If it was crap then it wouldn't be busy! With the Wall as well Leeds is indeed spoilt.
In reply to chubbs2:
Loughborough is the best bouldering wall I've been to. It's all in the route setting & the quality of the wall & holds.
Loughborough is the best bouldering wall I've been to. It's all in the route setting & the quality of the wall & holds.
In reply to Mr Fuller:
I've been there twice (City Bloc, work took me to Leeeds). Found the regulars very friendly. Good problems. And you can walk there from the city centre (or get a bus) though ti was hard to find at first (my google map was shit).
My regular walls are the TCA Glasgow and the GCC. Both are great: the TCA for the sheer number & quality of problems and the circuits, the GCC for the ingenuity & quality (I think, given the relatively small space, the route setters do a great job on setting up tasking problems that require a lot of thinking around, especially in the higher grades, and as you said above, you can come back to them repeatedly over them weeks. Plus the cafe is better the best I've seen yet at a climbing centre. Top quality food & serious coffee.
> (In reply to chubbs2)
>
> City Bloc in Leeds has the best routes of any place I've ever been. Inspiring, different, and with a good range of holds that are kept clean. It's the only wall I've ever been to where I can be bothered to repeatedly try at one problem over the course of a month because the climbing is that satisfying. The Bloc's often pretty quiet and everyone is super-friendly.
>
> The Depot, on the other hand, is massive but extremely busy, the holds are dirty or worn out and the routes are dull. Might just be me but I've never got on with it.
>
> City Bloc in Leeds has the best routes of any place I've ever been. Inspiring, different, and with a good range of holds that are kept clean. It's the only wall I've ever been to where I can be bothered to repeatedly try at one problem over the course of a month because the climbing is that satisfying. The Bloc's often pretty quiet and everyone is super-friendly.
>
> The Depot, on the other hand, is massive but extremely busy, the holds are dirty or worn out and the routes are dull. Might just be me but I've never got on with it.
I've been there twice (City Bloc, work took me to Leeeds). Found the regulars very friendly. Good problems. And you can walk there from the city centre (or get a bus) though ti was hard to find at first (my google map was shit).
My regular walls are the TCA Glasgow and the GCC. Both are great: the TCA for the sheer number & quality of problems and the circuits, the GCC for the ingenuity & quality (I think, given the relatively small space, the route setters do a great job on setting up tasking problems that require a lot of thinking around, especially in the higher grades, and as you said above, you can come back to them repeatedly over them weeks. Plus the cafe is better the best I've seen yet at a climbing centre. Top quality food & serious coffee.
Post edited at 13:32
In reply to Ava Adore:
I like AW Stoke. I go quite regularly and don't recognise this at all. I have been to many walls with worse route colour confusion. OK, sometimes holds do look black from above but that happens everywhere and I think it is better than average here as the lighting is quite good.
> Don't bother - Awesome in Stoke. Last time I went holds were uniformly black and the staff didn't much care when I complained.
I like AW Stoke. I go quite regularly and don't recognise this at all. I have been to many walls with worse route colour confusion. OK, sometimes holds do look black from above but that happens everywhere and I think it is better than average here as the lighting is quite good.
In reply to Mike Lewis:
Confused now. I went to Ratho last time but it's a bit of a mission by bus. OTOH it's definitely not overhot or humid which I absolutely loath ( a climbing wall that doesn't have climbable conditions seems like a swimming pool without water to me but that's the way the industry seems to be going)
> "Warm" in the context of an Edinburgh wall means "warmer than outside" (unlike one venue...) Alien 2 definitely isn't too hot, and has really good route setting.
Confused now. I went to Ratho last time but it's a bit of a mission by bus. OTOH it's definitely not overhot or humid which I absolutely loath ( a climbing wall that doesn't have climbable conditions seems like a swimming pool without water to me but that's the way the industry seems to be going)
In reply to 007:
How would you compare it to the Depot in Nottingham?
> Loughborough is the best bouldering wall I've been to. It's all in the route setting & the quality of the wall & holds.
How would you compare it to the Depot in Nottingham?
In reply to winhill:
I haven't been to the Depot in Nottingham so can't answer your question directly. I can, however, describe what it is about the setting in Loughborough that makes it my favourite of all the modern bouldering walls I've been to(*). It is generally oriented towards training for rock, with a lot of terrain at lower angles and with smaller holds than is common these days. Lateral thinking, cunning and tenacity are rewarded more than the ability to dyno from one big blob to the next.
(*) the others being Arch, Rockover and half a dozen in Germany & Austria
I haven't been to the Depot in Nottingham so can't answer your question directly. I can, however, describe what it is about the setting in Loughborough that makes it my favourite of all the modern bouldering walls I've been to(*). It is generally oriented towards training for rock, with a lot of terrain at lower angles and with smaller holds than is common these days. Lateral thinking, cunning and tenacity are rewarded more than the ability to dyno from one big blob to the next.
(*) the others being Arch, Rockover and half a dozen in Germany & Austria
In reply to chubbs2:
Purely on the bouldering...
Good:
The Castle
Mile End
TCA Bristol
The Works
The Foundry
Reading Wall (I'm less enthused by the routes)
Not as good:
Harlow
Calshot (Shame as the routes are generally pretty good)
Purely on the bouldering...
Good:
The Castle
Mile End
TCA Bristol
The Works
The Foundry
Reading Wall (I'm less enthused by the routes)
Not as good:
Harlow
Calshot (Shame as the routes are generally pretty good)
In reply to AlanLittle and Winhill:
I've been to both several times. In terms of angles there is actually little between them, both have a good selection from slabs to big roofs. Lboro is a bit bigger overall but doesnt have such a big roof as the Comp wall at the depot - but still more than enough for me.
They both have similar training areas with good circuit boards - Lboro a bit better than the Depot for me as it has two big circuit boards which are what I use most, but a bit less other stuff.
There is no discernible difference in quality of setting. If anything I'd say Depot was slightly more interesting, but I'm being picky, both are good.
Overall I prefer Lboro but only marginally. However I go there more often because getting to the Depot is a nightmare through Nottingham city centre (I live in Derby).
I've been to both several times. In terms of angles there is actually little between them, both have a good selection from slabs to big roofs. Lboro is a bit bigger overall but doesnt have such a big roof as the Comp wall at the depot - but still more than enough for me.
They both have similar training areas with good circuit boards - Lboro a bit better than the Depot for me as it has two big circuit boards which are what I use most, but a bit less other stuff.
There is no discernible difference in quality of setting. If anything I'd say Depot was slightly more interesting, but I'm being picky, both are good.
Overall I prefer Lboro but only marginally. However I go there more often because getting to the Depot is a nightmare through Nottingham city centre (I live in Derby).
Post edited at 20:12
In reply to chubbs2:
Aber rocks in Abergavenny is a great bouldering centre, definitely worth a journey!
Aber rocks in Abergavenny is a great bouldering centre, definitely worth a journey!
In reply to chubbs2:
Another vote for Boulder UK in Blackburn. Problems are excellent technical and challenging. May seem compact on first visit but there is a heck of a lot to go at and you'll be tired out before you run out. Best bouldering in the area.
Another vote for Boulder UK in Blackburn. Problems are excellent technical and challenging. May seem compact on first visit but there is a heck of a lot to go at and you'll be tired out before you run out. Best bouldering in the area.
In reply to chubbs2:
Another vote for the climbing station in loughborough.
As well as the reasons already given it also has a separate training room with 10 and 35 degree circuit walls, a 45 degree woody, fingerboards and campus boards.
It strikes me that someone has really thought about what should go in to make a really good bouldering wall and they've gone off and done it
Another vote for the climbing station in loughborough.
As well as the reasons already given it also has a separate training room with 10 and 35 degree circuit walls, a 45 degree woody, fingerboards and campus boards.
It strikes me that someone has really thought about what should go in to make a really good bouldering wall and they've gone off and done it
In reply to chubbs2:
If you're around the North West, have you tried the Boardroom, which opened a few months ago?
http://theboardroomclimbing.com/
If you're around the North West, have you tried the Boardroom, which opened a few months ago?
http://theboardroomclimbing.com/
In reply to chubbs2:
If your over in Dublin/Ireland Gravity Climbing Centre is the best wall - good problems, friendly staff, good coffee!
If your over in Dublin/Ireland Gravity Climbing Centre is the best wall - good problems, friendly staff, good coffee!
In reply to chubbs2:
Don't bother:
Top of the list for awful walls is Granite Planet in Penryn. I turned around and walked straight out again without even bothering to climb it looked that bad.
Paid a visit to Under Cover Rock in Bristol this week and was a bit under-whelmed with the bouldering(although the lead walls looked good). Not sure what the other Bristol walls are like.
The Life Centre in Plymouth isn't brilliant, but OK for the odd visit. I've not bouldered at Dart Rock, but didn't think it looked great.
Personally I thought Ratho was mediocre for bouldering (but looked like it would have been amazing if I had a partner for routes).
Don't miss:
Rock Over in Manchester is excellent. Best of the Manc walls for bouldering. This will of course prompt howls of protest from Broughton devotees, which is also brilliant though very different (is it still open?). MCC and Awesome Walls Stockport are both OK too.
The Works is obviously great. Not been to any of the other Sheffield walls.
Don't bother:
Top of the list for awful walls is Granite Planet in Penryn. I turned around and walked straight out again without even bothering to climb it looked that bad.
Paid a visit to Under Cover Rock in Bristol this week and was a bit under-whelmed with the bouldering(although the lead walls looked good). Not sure what the other Bristol walls are like.
The Life Centre in Plymouth isn't brilliant, but OK for the odd visit. I've not bouldered at Dart Rock, but didn't think it looked great.
Personally I thought Ratho was mediocre for bouldering (but looked like it would have been amazing if I had a partner for routes).
Don't miss:
Rock Over in Manchester is excellent. Best of the Manc walls for bouldering. This will of course prompt howls of protest from Broughton devotees, which is also brilliant though very different (is it still open?). MCC and Awesome Walls Stockport are both OK too.
The Works is obviously great. Not been to any of the other Sheffield walls.
In reply to chubbs2:
Climb Rochdale does not deserve the negative review above. I visited that wall last week for the first time and found a range of decent problems, particularly in the main area. Some really interesting ones too. Perhaps the best problems were in the v4 to v7 range.
For the last 5 years I have taken a small group of students around the north west and therefore know the competition pretty well. They all have their strengths. There were certainly no kids running around at Rochdale last week, and if there were then at any wall, then SIMPLY tell the staff.
Boulder UK makes the best of its building. Problem setting is obviously excellent. The main room is good, but the other rooms have disappoitingly short walls. Personally I would choose Rochdale over BoulderUK. It has a decent system board too.
Preston is worth a visit for bouldering.
Awesome Walls Stockport is a great wall for climbing and bouldering.
RockOver is decent, with massive potential, but has dropped in my estimation in recent visits. The central area has good problems, but other areas seemed a bit lacking in inspiration.
Personally I don't like the move some walls have made to using colour tag on start hold rather than grading for hold colours. I know why they do it, but it results in a less satisfying session for me. Makes finding decent problem at a certain grade range more time consuming.
Climb Rochdale does not deserve the negative review above. I visited that wall last week for the first time and found a range of decent problems, particularly in the main area. Some really interesting ones too. Perhaps the best problems were in the v4 to v7 range.
For the last 5 years I have taken a small group of students around the north west and therefore know the competition pretty well. They all have their strengths. There were certainly no kids running around at Rochdale last week, and if there were then at any wall, then SIMPLY tell the staff.
Boulder UK makes the best of its building. Problem setting is obviously excellent. The main room is good, but the other rooms have disappoitingly short walls. Personally I would choose Rochdale over BoulderUK. It has a decent system board too.
Preston is worth a visit for bouldering.
Awesome Walls Stockport is a great wall for climbing and bouldering.
RockOver is decent, with massive potential, but has dropped in my estimation in recent visits. The central area has good problems, but other areas seemed a bit lacking in inspiration.
Personally I don't like the move some walls have made to using colour tag on start hold rather than grading for hold colours. I know why they do it, but it results in a less satisfying session for me. Makes finding decent problem at a certain grade range more time consuming.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Hi Rob,
you are probably right. I am not a boulderer and being pretty old find the cold quite tricky these days, hence going indoors. i had driven across to ratho to use the auto belays but found the route setting pretty poor, so had a look at the boulders. very few people around to talk to, but those that were climbing were enjoying themselves and doing some hard stuff. the glasgow wall, much warmer, more friendly grades for an old fart like me, and just a nice bunch of people to talk to. the arsy topless boulderers must have gone somewhere else that day. it was just a comment to say that i found tca a much friendlier place all round.
J
Hi Rob,
you are probably right. I am not a boulderer and being pretty old find the cold quite tricky these days, hence going indoors. i had driven across to ratho to use the auto belays but found the route setting pretty poor, so had a look at the boulders. very few people around to talk to, but those that were climbing were enjoying themselves and doing some hard stuff. the glasgow wall, much warmer, more friendly grades for an old fart like me, and just a nice bunch of people to talk to. the arsy topless boulderers must have gone somewhere else that day. it was just a comment to say that i found tca a much friendlier place all round.
J
In reply to Si dH:
Loughborough is far more varied than the depot which I found very uninspiring for bouldering up to v3/4. The depot seemed to be all about how hard you could pull rather than how well you climb.
For lower grade boulderers the Nottingham wall still beats the depot with its excellent textured area although I can see if you climb harder the depot would be better
Loughborough is far more varied than the depot which I found very uninspiring for bouldering up to v3/4. The depot seemed to be all about how hard you could pull rather than how well you climb.
For lower grade boulderers the Nottingham wall still beats the depot with its excellent textured area although I can see if you climb harder the depot would be better
In reply to teapot:
I've been 3 times, the kids issue was on a weekend morning session so, granted, it probably doesn't happen every time. I was just really surprised that the many instructors around did nothing about it.
However, having climbed at many indoor walls and having climbed at rochdale on 3 separate times, I found their setting worse than other walls. I also think their use of space is poor, especially upstairs where the main resin wall feels outdated and they have a pointless vertical wall with no matting beneath it and two other small resin walls which seem pointless and under used.
I think indoor bouldering has moved on but rochdale wall hasn't kept up. I feel like you'll get a much better and more relevant work out at BoulderUK in Blackburn which has less than half the space.
> Climb Rochdale does not deserve the negative review above. I visited that wall last week for the first time and found a range of decent problems, particularly in the main area. Some really interesting ones too. Perhaps the best problems were in the v4 to v7 range.
I've been 3 times, the kids issue was on a weekend morning session so, granted, it probably doesn't happen every time. I was just really surprised that the many instructors around did nothing about it.
However, having climbed at many indoor walls and having climbed at rochdale on 3 separate times, I found their setting worse than other walls. I also think their use of space is poor, especially upstairs where the main resin wall feels outdated and they have a pointless vertical wall with no matting beneath it and two other small resin walls which seem pointless and under used.
I think indoor bouldering has moved on but rochdale wall hasn't kept up. I feel like you'll get a much better and more relevant work out at BoulderUK in Blackburn which has less than half the space.
Another vote for the Climbing station Loughborough! Defo don't miss
In reply to deepsoup:
Bit harsh about Newcastle climbing centre, climbed there for a while now, routes are enjoyable and staff friendly. The routes may not be changed as often as other venues but for an old timer they are ok.
Bit harsh about Newcastle climbing centre, climbed there for a while now, routes are enjoyable and staff friendly. The routes may not be changed as often as other venues but for an old timer they are ok.
In reply to chubbs2:
In climbing terms I am more George Dawes than Johnny but I found 'The Warehouse' in Gloucester was nice when passing through recently. Good cafe, friendly staff, nice airy location in an old brick warehouse.
Bouldering was varied and made good use of small attic space, routes the same.
Personally I found Kendal limiting if you only top rope (though not been in a few years). Awesome Walls Stockport have issues with colouring routes, (too many red/orange/pink lines together). Very good otherwise as is MCC.
In climbing terms I am more George Dawes than Johnny but I found 'The Warehouse' in Gloucester was nice when passing through recently. Good cafe, friendly staff, nice airy location in an old brick warehouse.
Bouldering was varied and made good use of small attic space, routes the same.
Personally I found Kendal limiting if you only top rope (though not been in a few years). Awesome Walls Stockport have issues with colouring routes, (too many red/orange/pink lines together). Very good otherwise as is MCC.
In reply to chubbs2:
What's the problem with the new Beacon? Good problems, interesting walls and clean and spacious. I think it's really good. The new training room is a good addition and the cave is pretty inspiring. The routes are great too.
What's the problem with the new Beacon? Good problems, interesting walls and clean and spacious. I think it's really good. The new training room is a good addition and the cave is pretty inspiring. The routes are great too.
In reply to didntcomelast:
True, can't fault the staff. Apart from whoever sets the routes, who may be lovely for all I know but really isn't very good.
> Bit harsh about Newcastle climbing centre, climbed there for a while now, routes are enjoyable and staff friendly.
True, can't fault the staff. Apart from whoever sets the routes, who may be lovely for all I know but really isn't very good.
So in summary, some people like some walls, some people don't like them.
I have a feeling that the main determining factor as to what makes a wall "good" or not is how much of an enjoyable session somebody had, which is probably as much to do with how well rested you are, pre-conceptions of how hard you should be able to climb etc.
I have a feeling that the main determining factor as to what makes a wall "good" or not is how much of an enjoyable session somebody had, which is probably as much to do with how well rested you are, pre-conceptions of how hard you should be able to climb etc.
In reply to GDes:
I should say that's definitely the case. You're unlikely to have an enjoyable session at a wall that doesn't suit you.
> > I have a feeling that the main determining factor as to what makes a wall "good" or not is how much of an enjoyable session somebody had, which is probably as much to do with how well rested you are, pre-conceptions of how hard you should be able to climb etc.
I should say that's definitely the case. You're unlikely to have an enjoyable session at a wall that doesn't suit you.
In reply to GDes:
Yup I'd agree, there's a lot of variation in opininion, but there's also walls which keep coming up time and again as good ones, so there's a few new ones for my 'to visit' list.
Likewise I'd agree that perception of a 'good' wall can be about how good a session you had, but I also think quality of route setting has a lot to do with it. I find the walls that regularly use experienced professional route setters (e.g Ian Vickers)generally seem to have better problems than those that just use their own staff.
Yup I'd agree, there's a lot of variation in opininion, but there's also walls which keep coming up time and again as good ones, so there's a few new ones for my 'to visit' list.
Likewise I'd agree that perception of a 'good' wall can be about how good a session you had, but I also think quality of route setting has a lot to do with it. I find the walls that regularly use experienced professional route setters (e.g Ian Vickers)generally seem to have better problems than those that just use their own staff.
In reply to chubbs2:
broughton has no route setters as such just a topo of 1000+ probs set over the years by those that have climbed there.
broughton has no route setters as such just a topo of 1000+ probs set over the years by those that have climbed there.
Post edited at 10:51
In reply to chubbs2:
I agree that setting is crucial for a good boulder wall. However the comment re professional setters is, in my experience, well wide of the mark. Three walls I use, Eden Rock, Climbnewcastle and The Works have excellent in house setters that regularly set stunning circuits. My observation is obviously limited by the small number of walls I use but I am sure there are many others which use in house teams that are also excellent.
> Likewise I'd agree that perception of a 'good' wall can be about how good a session you had, but I also think quality of route setting has a lot to do with it. I find the walls that regularly use experienced professional route setters (e.g Ian Vickers)generally seem to have better problems than those that just use their own staff.
I agree that setting is crucial for a good boulder wall. However the comment re professional setters is, in my experience, well wide of the mark. Three walls I use, Eden Rock, Climbnewcastle and The Works have excellent in house setters that regularly set stunning circuits. My observation is obviously limited by the small number of walls I use but I am sure there are many others which use in house teams that are also excellent.
Post edited at 17:30
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
Set by Mickey and Micky!! Good sounds if you like trad folk...therefore never too busy... most visitors spend most time sat at the bottom trying to find out how to pull on ... keeps the holds clean...
Set by Mickey and Micky!! Good sounds if you like trad folk...therefore never too busy... most visitors spend most time sat at the bottom trying to find out how to pull on ... keeps the holds clean...
Post edited at 20:12
In reply to chubbs2:
I'm not convinced about that, is anyone posting an opinion based on a single session here? (Not me, certainly.)
> Likewise I'd agree that perception of a 'good' wall can be about how good a session you had
I'm not convinced about that, is anyone posting an opinion based on a single session here? (Not me, certainly.)
In reply to chubbs2:
I think anyone in NW would struggle to beat climbing hangar. Yes it does get busy but there's a reason for it. constantly evolving, challenging and there's always something new going on. plus their WBL final within its UV paint was awesome!
I think anyone in NW would struggle to beat climbing hangar. Yes it does get busy but there's a reason for it. constantly evolving, challenging and there's always something new going on. plus their WBL final within its UV paint was awesome!
BeBoulder in Widnes seems to be finding its feet now and deserves a visit. Recent reset and the guys are settling in now.
In reply to chubbs2:
I use pretty much exclusively, The Reach in Woolwich, SE London. Every setting is becoming better and more thought provoking on both routes and boulder. It is laid out in a way that allows you to train, rather than just tick problems. So organising Power Endurance sessions etc requires little work or planning. The grades are closer to outdoor grades than the other London walls but require thought, not just cranking power, so force you to question your technique. Thank you setters
I use pretty much exclusively, The Reach in Woolwich, SE London. Every setting is becoming better and more thought provoking on both routes and boulder. It is laid out in a way that allows you to train, rather than just tick problems. So organising Power Endurance sessions etc requires little work or planning. The grades are closer to outdoor grades than the other London walls but require thought, not just cranking power, so force you to question your technique. Thank you setters
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