UKC

Hey there.

I've recently moved over to Llandysul for the foreseeable future and am looking for a few close crags to go up in the evenings after work. Does anyone know of any near by?

- I've been climbing/bouldering for the past year, mainly sports and top ropes.
- I still need to buy the North Pembroke climbing guide...

Thanks in advance!

n reply to yayan:

Hi.

Nothing really in your immediate area. I believe there is a small, poor crag near llandysul that an outdoor group use but other than that, zilch. A bit further away is Llyn Brianne. Haven't climbed there but i believe there a few climbs worth doing with the rest being quite loose and horrible.
I live on the coast just near llangrannog. A team of us have been developing the coast for a new mid wales guidebook. Some excellent climbs in a fantastic location.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=19217

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=19082

Ynys Lochtyn and Pen Bilis are the main venues in the area. Pen Bilis is covered in the new north pembs vol1 guide although many more climbs have been added since it's publication. We have developed a number of other crags on the coast, which are not yet put here on ukc.

In reply to yayan:

Lochtyn would be the best bet for evening cragging. Many climbs which don't require abbing in and can tick off a few. I have developed some other crags with some good bouldering and micro routes which would also be good for an evening session.
Not entirely sure of the relase date for the new guide yet, but there is plenty to go at, with a few absolute gems.

In reply to yayan:

Heads up that stuff up in Llyn Brianne is Discussing and Chossy, all the harder climbs are on rusty pegs and the easier climbs are placing trad gear onto loose rock.

In reply to yayan:

I was climbing at Pen Bils on Saturday. It's not quite up there with the best of the north Pembrokeshire crags, but it's pretty good.

In reply to davidbeynon:

David - May I be so bold as to suggest you sample the climbing on Ynys Lochtyn the next time you're in the Llangrannog area? I'm in the very fortunate position to have climbed most of the 150 routes in the area and IMHO the best climbing's on the Ynys rather than on the headland.

An interim guide is downloadable from the CC website in PDF format.

Some food for thought if nothing else.

Dave

In reply to davidbeynon:

Average climbs are average anywhere. Great climbs are great anywhere..Vertigo Games and Ghost Machine are super routes at Pen Bilis. Routes on the Wild Card Buttress although not starred are a great adventure and worth doing. As Daves says, Lochtyn must be sampled. A great selection and many starred routes to go at.

In reply to Dave Williams:

Absolutely! Unfortunately I didn't find out about the downloadable mini guide until I got back, but I'm going to be over that way in July.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Great. Get on it. Some cracking climbs. A valuable venue for the area and needs to start getting some well desreved attention.