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Tell me about Grit.

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Hello.

Even though I have never climbed it I am entranced by Grit.....

I think it is down to the fact that it is steeped in rich history.

What is Grit like?

I know it is a solid, rough rock and technique wise a lot of smearing and palming is involved to climb it.

Is there any pushing involved?

Please can you tell me more about it,

I am reading Peak Rock at the moment.

I will participate in the Grit season in 2015.

Sav
Post edited at 19:20
 Michael Gordon 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It's very useful in the winter time
 Oceanrower 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

My budgie seems to like it.......
 Mark Kemball 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:



> I am reading Peak Rock at the moment.

So, you couldn't wait for Christmas then, great read, isn't it.

I don't really think there's a "season" unless you want to climb really hard and want the better friction of really cold weather (and are prepared to suffer for it). You can have a great time climbing any time of the year if you get good weather.

If you want to climb the classics, learn to jam, read up on the techniques, and make yourself use jams even when there are alternatives, until you are confident with them.

Froggatt is a lovely place to start.

Enjoy.
 Sean Kelly 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

And if you can't 'handjam' you will after a season on the Grit!
 jezb1 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Just go and climb on it, then you'll know.
 steveb2006 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Jamming, Smearing and rounded holds. The friction can be important on slightly harder routes and so warm sweaty days are not best for this. Easier routes will be ok. Often on moors and in the summer - especially on still evening,s midges can be a problem.
You should get on it.
 Brass Nipples 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I like strawberry jamming

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Hi Michael.

V.funny

A few years ago I stayed in a cottage in The Peak made from Grit for a few nights.

Cool as beans.

 The Pylon King 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Wales has the best Grit in the Uk
In reply to Oceanrower:

Hi.

?

Does your budgie feed on it?

 Blue Straggler 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Didn't you do this thread some time around March of this year?
 Mark Kemball 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Some discussion about Welsh grit on this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=602180
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Hi Mark.

No, I could not wait till Xmas....

So I asked my brother to get me it as a late birthday present!

I am getting Eastern and Western Grit for Xmas.

What I have read so far.... It is a great read.

Even the list of contributors is breath taking and enchanting!

I wish I could climb really hard.....

Are you talking about hard E grades?

I do not have a ski or winter climbing trip planned.

Johnny Dawes was going to teach me how to jam on rock.

Thanks for the beta.

Sav
Post edited at 20:49
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Hello Sean.

That is cool as beans.

I found hand jams hard at the crack climbing masterclass at The Castle.


In reply to steveb2006:

Hi.

I like those things but not the midges.

So winter and spring it is!

Sav

In reply to jezb1:

One thing....

I will do!

Sav
In reply to The Pylon King:

Haa haa....

Isn't grit only found on The Peak!

Are you talking about the rock on Tremadog?

Sav

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Hi.

I may have posted a similar thread.

Sav
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Hi.

Tremadog is Dole rite.

Sav

 Andy Hardy 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Grit is also found in Yorkshire and Staffordshire.
No grit apprenticeship is compete without a visit to almscliff.
Removed User 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I'm going to the toilet now. I may be some time.
 robin mueller 14 Nov 2014
In reply to 999thAndy:

> Grit is also found in Yorkshire and Staffordshire.

> No grit apprenticeship is compete without a visit to almscliff.

And Lancashire. The place to go for moorland grit bouldering and quarried gnarl.
In reply to 999thAndy:

I know that's why I used a question mark.

What about a trip to Cow and Calf in Ilkley?



 Mark Kemball 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=590913&v=1 1200 routes on Welsh Grit in the Rhynogydd - and I've not climbed any of them! (But when the new guide comes out...)

Cold weather and friction - only really important for higher E grades and harder boulder problems (which are both outside my experience).

Back in the day, there were plenty of us Dole climbers at Tremadog!
 mark s 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

>

> Johnny Dawes was going to teach me how to jam on rock.

> Thanks for the beta.

> Sav

bingo......there he is

have you read the bit about me then?

as for grit season,that only matters when doing E5/6 +
grit season for you would be warm weather

 Blue Straggler 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Hi.

> I may have posted a similar thread.

> Sav

Did you forget all the responses that people took time to write back then?
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Hi Mark.

Very interesting as I have never heard of this area in Wales.

Thanks.

Sav
In reply to Mark Kemball:

My phone can not recognise the real word.
In reply to The Pylon King:

Interesting link.

Thanks.
 aln 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> Did you forget all the responses that people took time to write back then?

A little unkind considering sav's condition. And TBH I could forget replies from a year ago.
 aln 14 Nov 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Wales has the best Grit in the Uk

What, better than that stuff you found in Somerset or wherever it was?
In reply to mark s:

Hi Mark.

I have only read up to and not including the first chapter.

Summer for me is Wales, Scotland, Lakes and South West.

Maybe a trip to The Alps.

I am on holiday in Cyprus in July.

I was thinking the cold weather would be good preparation for surviving the cold.

Sav
 Blue Straggler 14 Nov 2014
In reply to aln:

> A little unkind considering sav's condition.

Not really. It was a straightforward and innocent question.

He's welcome to say "yes, sorry, I did try to search for the old thread". Or perhaps "no I don't think so, you must be mistaken".

Do you think, sometimes, that you might be overthinking some of my posts?

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Kind of.

I remember about all the lovely invitations to go climbing.

Sav
In reply to Blue Straggler:

I have searched threads posted by me in last March and there is no thread about Grit.

Sav
In reply to aln:

Thanks.

Sav
 Kevster 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Before you climb it, go for a walk along say, burbage and them Stanage. You could takein a couple of other crags too.
It'll help you see what's about, there will be climbers, watch what they do. Get a feel for Tue place. Maybe spot a few route which atch your eye from reading your guides.
It'll make the climbing a great experience. Rushing in is easy. Savour your first.

Enjoy.
 liz j 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

What month are you going to headpoint Parthian Shot? I see that you have a long list of the hardest grit routes on your blog. Hope all that training with JD pays off. Await the photos.
 aln 14 Nov 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

> Do you think, sometimes, that you might be overthinking some of my posts?

I don't overthink them, I obsessively analyse the meaning context subtext etc. It fills the empty lonely hole in my life.
 The Pylon King 14 Nov 2014
In reply to aln:

Yes

1.Welsh Grit
2. Somerset Grit
3. Rest of World Grit
In reply to Kevster:

Hello.

What a great idea!

Sav
In reply to liz j:
Hi Liz.

Do people want me to do it or are you being sarcastic?

Yes I do have a list of hard grit routes and I do mention climbing them.

At the walls I talk about climbing only.

Me and Johnny had one session together at The Castle but I remember what he told me.

I think me and Johnny will do a day of crack climbing.

I want real photos to.

Sav
Post edited at 23:55
 liz j 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I really think you should go for it, you are obviously strong and you have the technique, because JD said you did. Think that you can onsight Strawberries this year too. Infact, I'll come and hold your rope for you, and I can take pictures with the other hand as I'm sure you won't test my belaying.
 aln 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

Now I've analysed it... It doesn't sound like an 'honest and straightforward question'. That would have been 'Have you forgotten the replies from..' or something similar. 'the responses that people took time to write' changes the tone.
1
 lowersharpnose 15 Nov 2014
In reply to liz j:

You have done this before and come across as a nasty piece of work.
 FactorXXX 15 Nov 2014
In reply to lowersharpnose:

You have done this before and come across as a nasty piece of work.

Maybe she thinks that there is a bit of Trollage going on here?
 BarrySW19 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> What is Grit like?

It's like decent rock with all the edges rounded off.

Some people seem to like it...
Lusk 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I think me and Johnny will do a day of crack climbing.

Hahaha....like what you did with the other numerous generous previous offers of going climbing!
 lowersharpnose 15 Nov 2014
In reply to FactorXXX:

Well, she is either malicious or has no empathy or memory, the OP is no troll.

 FactorXXX 15 Nov 2014
In reply to lowersharpnose:

What makes you certain he isn't a troll?

In reply to liz j:

Hi.

Thanks for installing confidence in me and thank JD for me to!

I remember talking about those routes earlier in the year and along with people being worried about me I was also ridiculed.

I am strong but overweight.

I will let you belay me and take pictures.....

Isn't belaying with one hand dangerous?

Sav


In reply to BarrySW19:

Hi Barry.

I know a lot of people who like it.

In reply to Lusk:

I'm actually talking to Nathan and one other person about climbing trips this winter.
 Blue Straggler 15 Nov 2014
In reply to aln:

Good grief man. Give it a rest.
In reply to FactorXXX:

I am no troll.
 aln 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Blue Straggler:

I'm out of control.
 dr_botnik 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It's cold and windy and so sharp it cuts and grazes you. When its not cold, there are swarms of biting insects that attack you. The grades always feel harder than at the wall, and there's often no actual holds, even on easy routes.

Grit routes tend to be short, sharp and dangerous. They often feel hard work, and because you never get high enough to really be safe there's always a chance of a groundfall. Probably best you really consider what you are doing and whether you really want to.

Climbing is hard work, but I guess we wouldn't be doing it if we didn't find some enjoyment from it.
In reply to lowersharpnose:

You are correct, I am not a troll.

Thanks.

Sav
Lusk 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> I'm actually talking to Nathan and one other person about climbing trips this winter.

Please be sure to let them know to make alternative plans then.
Your track record is piss poor!
Post edited at 01:17
In reply to dr_botnik:

Hi.

Is it the crystals that cut and graze you?

I think I would prefer the cold to the insects as some insects like ticks spread diseases.

I know that they tend to be short and there is plenty of potential for ground falls.

I still want to climb it though.

Sav

In reply to Lusk:

Will do....

 mark s 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sav forget about the big hard grit routes,it will never happen.thats not knocking your dreams its the truth

Concentrate on routes that are do-able.
The history of these routes is far more interesting than the modern test pieces.

Like ive said before but you dis nothing,I will show you some easy stuff at the roaches as long as you dont want to top rope some e7
 mark s 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Ticks? Insects? That is not a reason to climb on grit in the summer.

You won't get cuts and grazes on the bottom end of grit.
As for ground falls,again not on the routes you will get off the ground on,so don't use that as an excuse
In reply to mark s:
Hello.

Okay then....

I told you I will climb with you in The Roaches.

Sav
In reply to mark s:

Don't you mean That is not a reason not climb grit in the summer.

I just stated that I know about ground falls, that's all.....

Not using them as an excuse.



In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Since one's worth is measured by what one has done on grit, you'd better get out there soon!
 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
>
> Wales has the best Grit in the Uk

Second that.

In reply to John Stainforth:

Hello John.

Hum.....

Interesting you say that.

Isn't winter the time hard grit?

I was told to climb it in the summer.....

Unless you believe that I can climb hard grit!

Sav
In reply to Sy Finch:
Hi.

No criticism today?
 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Sy Finch)
> Hi.
>
> No criticism today?

Yes.

What is the point in asking all these questions? You are just wasting peoples precious mintues of their life in replying. (I however am in work right now, and every minute distracted is a bonus )
Apart from a break for a while this year, you previously spent a few years before regurgitating biblical quantities of drivel about climbing, fake profiles on being a pro climber and guide, not honouring peoples invitaions on numerous occasions, and so on.
You might as well questions like 'can anyone recommend me a good pair of shades for a trip to the Sun?'

In reply to Sy Finch:

Very funny.

In the past.

 mark s 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
i am pretty sure your first time on grit will not be hampered by the grease of sweaty fingers and rock.

you will find diffs hard going by what you say about your climbing.climbing a hvs is a distant dream for you.climb at one level at a time.
 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Sy Finch)
>
> Very funny.
>
> In the past.


...present, and future?

Well that was futile. I now think I've wasted precious minutes of my work time. What is happening to me?
In reply to mark s:

I am sure of that to.

How do you know what I say about my climbing unless you read my blog that is?

I never mentioned H V S!

 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to mark s)
> >
> How do you know what I say about my climbing unless you read my blog that is?
>

Sav, that's the thing. I don't know anything about your 'climbing'
Does anyone?
In reply to Sy Finch:
All the stuff you said is in the past now.
Post edited at 14:37
 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Sy Finch)
>
> All the stuff you said is in the past now.

Yeah, sure Sav.

Despite everything, i do find it entertaining.
"Here's to another couple of years", he said, sitting back and breaking out the popcorn.
In reply to Sy Finch:

I agree with you.

No one has climbed with me outdoors or indoors.

Why put the word climbing in that punctuation?

Unless you mean something different by 'climbing'!

Sav
 mark s 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

i have read your blog sav and from i have read you try lots of problems but dont tick many.you seem to struggle on v0's.also from what i read you find it difficult to control your fear
these points to me will mean you will find outdoor climbing very hard.
no harm in trying as hard as you can though
In reply to mark s:

Okay.

Did you know when in I was at Craggy 2 I did not care about grades?

Well then I need to control my fear, don't I?

What is the best way of controlling fear?

I am taking a week of from climbing indoors this week anyway.

I think it is a fear of hurting myself if I miss the hold and fall.....

I think I need to commit more.

Sav
1
In reply to Sy Finch:

Sure Sy.

Maybe I will forget about UKC and maybe in a few years I will not be climbing and have no interest in it....

Who knows?

Sav
In reply to mark s:
Not meaning too sound rude and seem intrusive.....

What is your surname so I remember you when I read Peak Rock?
Post edited at 15:17
Tim Chappell 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Grit is rubbish. Don't waste your time, unless you're planning to dry-tool it.

Sidlaws basalt choss: way to go
 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Sy Finch)
>
> Sure Sy.
>
> Maybe I will forget about UKC and maybe in a few years I will not be climbing and have no interest in it....
>
> Who knows?
>
> Sav

It's been said countless times;
You haven't even started climbing, or ever likely to, to "not be climbing" Holding on to a bit of plastic now and again at the start of an indoor boulder problem I reckon wouldn't class as climbing. You've talked about climbing on here for a few years now. I think the only thing you should quit is bullsh!$&ing. It may sound harsh but you've always banged on about you're going to do this, you're going to do that, asking all these questions. People have taken the time to help you out which at the end of the day is a worthless excercise.
Before you used to constantly say things like "I'm training to do Parthian Shot, Ben Bransby said I could do it". (With out ever starting climbing, i must add).People would criticise you and would sort of take it on board and say "oh, maybe I should toprope some diffs". The next day it would be like "oh, so and so said I could be climbing E3 6a in a month" and then be banging on about that.
As for all the questions on techniques and stuff, what's the point, eh.
To me it's like reilgion, I don't care what fantasies you have, keep it to yourself, not out in the public.
There's only so much rubbish people can take.

In reply to Tim Chappell:

Hi Tim.

A lot of people would disagree with you - I can not agree or disagree as I have not climbed it.

I read that Choss is not suitable for climbing.

But then some people like to climb loose, soft and crumbly rock.

 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

And before you say "that's in the past". You have also said that countless times aswell.
Most of your posts seem to go this way. Don't you think that's saying something?
 liz j 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> Hi.

> Thanks for installing confidence in me and thank JD for me to!

> I remember talking about those routes earlier in the year and along with people being worried about me I was also ridiculed.

> I am strong but overweight.

> I will let you belay me and take pictures.....

> Isn't belaying with one hand dangerous?

> Sav

Belaying with one hand is completely safe when the lead climber is never going to be more than 2ft off the ground....

In response to your email, thanks for your concern that my account may have been hacked, it hasn't, it's me. I will not be replying via email to you as I do not wish for you to have either my email address or my surname.
Post edited at 18:11
1
In reply to Sy Finch:

I did state what Ben Bransby told me and what that guy said about E 3 6 a...

I found out that the guy who told me that was a trickster who wanted to send spam from my email and steal from my online banking with HSBC.

How many times did I say it?

Are you slating religion?....

Some people might find that offensive.

Sav




 Sy Finch 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to Sy Finch)
>
>>
> Are you slating religion?....
>
> Some people might find that offensive.
>
> Sav

Yes I am.
Religion should be ridiculed at every oppurtunity.
Ignorance is not something that should be repsected, so I don't care if it offends.
I don't believe in things. I acknowledge facts through gaining an undertstanding in something through logic, empirical evidence and reason.
In reply to liz j:

Hello Liz.

Glad that is you.

I never knew that about one hand belaying.....

Thanks for telling me that!

I thought it have been a spam sender or an online thief/fraudster.

Never mind about getting back via email.....

It was good to get a reply.

Sav

Planks Constant 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Climbing grit is a lot like making love to a beautiful woman...

Oh, wait a minute...
In reply to Sy Finch:
Not to offend anyone.

I agree with you.


Post edited at 18:46
In reply to Planks Constant:

I was told Grit is beautiful!

I think it is to do with the tiny crystals....

On the other hand those crystals make Grit rough and sharp!

Sav



In reply to John Stainforth:

Are you the same John Stainforth who is the twin of Gordon Stainforth?

Wow

Both of you are amazing climbers, alpinist and mountaineers.

Sav
 Yanis Nayu 15 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You are the troll of the century. Absolute genius)))
In reply to Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt:

What makes you think I am troll?

I am not one!
1
 zvm 15 Nov 2014
Why did I read through most of this? I think I should have gone climbing today.

In reply to zvm:

Why indeed?

Maybe you should have gone climbing.

Sav
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Of course I believe... that every time I hear a new-born gritter cry...
Also, abrasion is part of the religion.. it's your rite.
In reply to John Stainforth:

Hi John.

Yes, I am a grit newbie.

I agree with you about the abrasion!....

It has part if the climbing.

Sav
 Sy Finch 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> What makes you think I am troll?

> I am not one!

I'm sure you are not a troll Sav.
I reckon you just seek constant attention, which would would explain why your answers are always loaded with questions.

I'm the sure the subject in which you seek attention(in this case,climbing) is irrelevant.


In fact, I know. When I spoke to you on FB before to try and help you out, you're page said it all. One week you were a music producer , a month later you were something else. All the time not actually doing anything. I bet you are/were on other forums spewing out rubbish on them aswell.
People, answering his questions is a waste of your time.

Sorry Sav, I've lost all empathy for you, mental illness or not. You need a wake up call mate.
In reply to Sy Finch:

> Sorry Sav, I've lost all empathy for you, mental illness or not. You need a wake up call mate.

You should work in a psychiatric hospital, giving all the patients wake up calls!
In reply to Sy Finch:

I never said on Facebook I was a music producer.

What other jobs did I say I was?

I do not remember chatting to you on F B.....

As far as I can remember you commented on a photo or status update of mine and we were F B friends for a very short time.

I was on bodybuilding/fitness forums a long time ago.

You are right about me not being a troll.

Sav
 Sy Finch 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:



You kept sending me chat messages constantly, asking the same stupid questions.
I deleted you soon after.

As for your other questions, I really can't be bothered to answer
In reply to Sy Finch:
I do not remember asking you questions on F B chat and I have a very good memory.
Post edited at 11:10
 Sy Finch 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I do not remember asking you questions on F B chat and I have a very good memory.

Fine, if you're ok with that
People reading this may choose to believe you or me.
I'm just fuelling your attention seeking fantasy now, you win.
Bye.
In reply to Sy Finch:
I am not an attention seeker.....

Nor do I have ADD.

Bye
Post edited at 11:31
 The Ivanator 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Sav,
Having previously had my doubts I think I've come to accept you are not a troll. However not all trolls are malevolent and if you are one, then it is of a benign variety.
You are most certainly ARE an attention seeker, and there is not any great shame in admitting that, many people are, and it is not intrinsically altogether a bad thing.
In all likelihood you will never climb regularly outside (God knows you've had the chances) but I still hope someone does drag you onto real rock, as the fascination you have developed deserves honouring.
The forums are a brighter place for your presence - although you entertain and infuriate in almost equal measure! I have to admit my dwindling interest in the forum discussion has been somewhat rekindled by your recent threads
Sincerely wish you all the best in climbing, in relationships, in life ...it's what you make of it!
Ivan
In reply to The Ivanator:

Hi.

I do not see myself as an attention seeker.....

I thought most people think bad of the plural of attention seeker.

I am happy that you get some enjoyment from my posts.

I am in the process of making plans for climbing outside.

Thank you

Sav

 Kemics 16 Nov 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:

What a beautiful response. Clearly well reasoned and good natured.

If I wasn't posting off my phone I would link to Pink Floyd - Shine on you crazy diamond
In reply to Kemics:

Agreed.

In reply to Mountain Spirit:

An interesting extract from your blog, I would just like to ask if anyone here has done the mentioned climb and found the 'actual' climbing very easy.......

What is this sh*t............

We also talked about other routes such as Gerty Berwick (E9 7a) – also in Ilkley, this route may have a scary grade but according to the UK Climbing description, the actual climbing sounds very easy – just a lot if rockovers and reaches. I think it is very bold/run out.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Sav is doing it next week, everyone at the wall says he can do it! I'm sure he'll find it easy.
 Timmd 16 Nov 2014
In reply to dr_botnik:

> It's cold and windy and so sharp it cuts and grazes you. When its not cold, there are swarms of biting insects that attack you. The grades always feel harder than at the wall, and there's often no actual holds, even on easy routes.

I know what you mean, but there kind of are holds if you look at the rock sideways, indentations and rounded bits to pull down on, the tricky bit is working out how to arrange your body so you can use them well. ()
 jezb1 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good post Ivan.

You sum it all up very well!
 jimjimjim 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I have no idea what this thread is on about
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Hi.

If you click the link you will find out that climbing is what the UK Climbing route description says....

It did not say it was easy but I thought rock overs are a basic beginners climbing move.

Sav
In reply to liz j:
Hi Liz.

Who at Mile End Wall did you speak to?

The gentleman I talk has white hair, a beard and his name is Andy.

I did not say I am going to do it next week.

Thanks for believing in me, giving me encouragement and confidence.

Sav

Post edited at 17:08
In reply to jezb1:

Hi.

?

Is this post directed at Ivan or me?

Sav
In reply to Timmd:

Hi.

What you are saying sounds like body positioning to me.

In reply to jimjimjim:

Hi jim.

It is about Grit.

 Goucho 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You should change your username to either 'BillyGoatGruff' or 'WalterMitty'

Still number one contender for Troll of the decade though.
 Timmd 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Yeah, it is. It's pretty much essential for griststone, or 'the holds don't work'.
 djellworth 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good times are truly back.
I have missed Mountain Spirit for the past few months.
Just addictive.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Watch Pete Whitaker on dynamics of change, take note of the rock over and get back to me. Saying that rock overs are a beginners move is the most ridiculous statement you've ever made.
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Hello.

Well there are many kinds of rockover.

I found two on a French 5 route at Craggy 1 in Guildford and two on a font 5 + problem at Craggy 2.

I do not normally watch climbing videos unless they are instructional or educational but since I am a Wide boys fan I will watch it.

Sav
In reply to Goucho:

Very funny.
In reply to Timmd:

Hello.

I was taught it by a climbing legend who started out on grit himself.

Sav

In reply to Goucho:

There was a film made a bit the latter....

Did he like have a double life?

In reply to djellworth:

Hi.

I lost all interest in climbing for a long time due to matters of the heart.

Great to be back.

Sav
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Matters of the heart? Is that the woman you are obsessing over on your other two threads?

I haven't spoken to anyone at Mile End, you just keep banging on about these people telling you to climb routes on your blog.

If you genuinely aren't trolling, then please get a reality check. If you want to go climbing, then stop being so fanatical about every little detail, planning on climbing routes completely out of your ability, and just go and enjoy yourself.

Or you could of course just keep up the entertainment value on UKC, it does seem a little dull these days without your posts.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Many kinds of rockover??? Please elaborate?

A rock over is a rock over!!
 Goucho 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Hello.

> I was taught it by a climbing legend who started out on grit himself.

> Sav

>

Oi Dawes, you're starting to let your guard slip - too many self congratulatory comments via a pseudonym?

Stop trolling and get back out on the rock

In reply to Goucho:

I am not Johhny Dawes!

You can check out my IP address and whereabouts.

Sav

 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

But you wish you were, don't you!!
In reply to liz j:

Yes but only one of the thread is about her....

I do not think I am obsessed with her.

They do tell me to climb them or we talk about them in reference to great climbers.

I will go climbing but after Xmas and New Years.

I am sure there are more entertaining posts on UKC than mine.

Sav
 mark stones 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Sav, Do you ever actually do any climbing?
You talk about climbing a lot, mostly quotes from climbing articles out of magazines, climbing guide books etc your blogs talk of training and trying boulder problems. You have many famous climbing friends who tell you that you should be climbing routes like parathion shot, strawberries among others.

You have had many offers from people on here to take you out climbing, but you always cancel, often at short notice. I believe you once cancelled because you had fallen out of the bath????

Do you actually want to climb????????
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Only one thread about her? The other one is about FB relationship status, which to my mind means you are busy looking over her FB pages.

When these guys at the wall tell you to climb these routes, do you not ever think that they might be pulling your leg?
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

I was told about no-hands rockovers....

But the ones I did were regular rockovers but the boulder problem ones where on small holds on a curvy cylindrical wall and the sport route ones involved me laybacking to get my foot on a high foot hold using the arete of that part of the wall in the centre to help me.

I think there is such as thing called a heel-hook rockover where he rockover your heel hook.

Sav
1
In reply to liz j:

I wish I had his ability.
 mark s 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

how hard do you think the E7's + on grit are?
do you think anyone can climb them if they really wanted?
In reply to mark stones:
Hi Mark.

Yes I do try to climb problems but I get stuck.

I actually do want to climb.

No you are mistaken about the bath.

I have finished the first chapter of Peak Rock and it has inspired me to climb more than I wanted to before.

I only cancelled on Deacon once and with David it has been postponed due to an injured wrist.

I have not arranged anything with David or Nathan in regards to dates and places.

Sav
Post edited at 18:42
In reply to liz j:

She has only one Facebook page.....

The other one is about FB relationship status but in general.

They seem serious to me.....

I think that sometimes.

Sav
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Did you ever go skiing in the end? After everyone gave you lots of advice about where to go?
 mark stones 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I'm not mistaken about the bath. You have constantly let people down who have offered to take you out climbing.
If you are serious about actually going climbing and not messing people about, Have you thought about joining a climbing club? Look on the BMC website, there will be one in your area.
In reply to mark s:

Hi.

Well....

Q1
It depends on various things including the angle, style of the climb, features e.g. arete, slab, groove etc. and what techinques are involved.

Q2.
It is tricky to answer it.
It depends on the routes - some people love slabs and hate overhangs whilst others love splitter cracks and corners but hate crimps and aretes.

Sav
In reply to liz j:
Nope as I did not do a lesson or two at a real indoor slope place.

But I did see the admin course till the very end.
Post edited at 18:56
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Hi.

> Well....

> Q1

> It depends on various things including the angle, style of the climb, features e.g. arete, slab, groove etc. and what techinques are involved.

> Q2.

> It is tricky to answer it.

> It depends on the routes - some people love slabs and hate overhangs whilst others love splitter cracks and corners but hate crimps and aretes.

> Sav

Says he who is experienced in climbing with all these techniques on grit...
In reply to mark stones:

I did not fall out of the bath but I did injure my wrist.

Who did I let down?

I thought this was discussed in the spring.

I will try the London Mountaineering Club again.

Sav
In reply to liz j:

Don't get your reply.

Seems you are yanking my chain.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think my thread needs to be archived.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

You are answering a question about how hard E7 is on grit, but you have absolutely no experience at all, yet you talk as if you have climbed them all! You don't seem to get it, you haven't got the answers because you can't do it!
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Atheists don't seem to like it!
 Brass Nipples 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

What does yanking my chain mean?

In reply to liz j:
Should have said what you saying.

Why do I talk if I have climbed them all?

Post edited at 19:10
In reply to Christheclimber:

I know Sy Fich does not like it.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I'm saying you know diddly squat. Also, I wouldn't want to 'yank your chain', I would prefer to keep my hands clean.
Post edited at 19:10
 mark s 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

i can assure you what ever style the e7 is,its hard.one trick ponies may find certain routes a lot easier than a style they dont get on with.but they are uncomparable to diffs and severes.

some people will never climb e7 no matter what they do,you have to accept that will include yourself.

In reply to mark s:
ok

Do you intend to climb this routes in your wish list like Gaia?
Post edited at 19:25
In reply to Orgsm:

It means kidding or joking around.
 Brass Nipples 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

So you are kidding and joking with Liz? It seems less friendly than that.

In reply to Orgsm:

Well....

At first I thought Liz playing was bulls hitting me or someone had hacked into her UKC account.

I think she is being serious now and she thinks I am trolling.

Sav
 mark s 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

when i put gaia in my wishlist i was capable of doing it
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

No Sav, I don't think you are trolling. I think you are deadly serious, and that is worrying!! Why did you get barred from the Mountaineering club?
In reply to mark s:

Cool as beans.

And Now? Can you do at 38?

You are two years older than me.


 Goucho 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Nurse!!!!

There's someone using the hospital computer without supervision again!
Post edited at 19:34
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Cool as beans.

> And Now? Can you do at 38?

> You are two years older than me.

Where does age come into it??
In reply to liz j:

Other people think I am troll.

I got my money refunded from The Croydon one because I had no experience and they did not have the ability to deal with disability.


I did not bring hard grit up.....

The thread is about Grit in general.

People said you have no empathy or memory.
Sav
In reply to Goucho:

I'm on my smartphone.
In reply to liz j:

I thought age was a factor!?

He spoke in the past tense.
 gribble 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I'm on my smartphone.

An award for the best reply yet!!
 Goucho 16 Nov 2014
In reply to gribble:

> An award for the best reply yet!!

True, but he didn't contradict the hospital location.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
No, one person said I had no empathy or memory. I have both, but you are clearly taking the p,i.s.s. now. Why don't you just stop the fantasy and post about climbing Diffs in Wales. You then might get a more positive response. One thing is for certain, you are intelligent. So why do you continue to make yourself look foolish?

Age is not a factor, many people are at the top of their game in their chosen sports at a relatively old age.
Post edited at 19:50
In reply to Goucho:

On my Samsung Galaxy S5 at home.
 mark s 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Cool as beans.

> And Now? Can you do at 38?

> You are two years older than me.

im 40 now and wouldnt be able to do it and i wouldnt want to put myself in that position now.been there done that
In reply to liz j:

Are you saying I imagined lowersharpnose ' s reply?

The post is about Grit in general - I did not mention any grades and routes.

Sav
In reply to mark s:

I'm catching up with you.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

No, but 'people' is plural. Lowersharpnose is only one 'person' I was just correcting you.
In reply to liz j:

No worries.

Don't mind that you corrected me.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
That's ok then. To be honest Sav, I feel a bit sorry for you. You obviously enjoy the idea of climbing, but because you post such way out comments and ambitions, nobody really takes you seriously. I've said this before, if you were to lower your ambitions, take people up on offers to go climbing and just enjoy it rather than getting wrapped up in the complexities of it all, you would have a much better time, both on here and in real life!

Or maybe you do enjoy the conflict??
Post edited at 20:10
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Yet they are still all rockovers...

please stop trying to teach me about climbing techniques. I actually go climbing
In reply to liz j:

Well....

I've taken up Nath on his offer.

Me and David are in talks.

What out there comments do I post?

Sav

In reply to Euan McKendrick:
Well....

Yes they are all rockover s.

You asked about rockover s.

Okay then about the teaching.

Sav
Post edited at 20:23
In reply to liz j:

I think you are wrong about age....

Would Sir Bobby Charlton be able to play in the England team along with Wayne Rooney now?

Would Sir Chris Bonnington be able to climb as he did when he was young?

I don't like conflict but I like debate and discussion.

Sav
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
You mean you have actually gone climbing with Nath?
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I think you are wrong about age....

> Would Sir Bobby Charlton be able to play in the England team along with Wayne Rooney now?

> Would Sir Chris Bonnington be able to climb as he did when he was young?

> I don't like conflict but I like debate and discussion.

> Sav

They are of an age where everyone's ability would diminish. However, some of the best runners in my club are in their late 50's/early 60's and they can literally run circles round people half their age. Stevie Haston (touchy subject on UKC is getting on a bit and still climbing hard routes. Footballers are all overpaid arseholes...
In reply to liz j:

It depends if people keep active and their lifestyles.

I agree with you on the footballers.....

The legendary Dawes climbed an E7 in Morroco.

In the Croydon Mountaineering Club there are people who are in their fifties and sixties who climb and one runs marathons and does base camp treks.

Sav
In reply to liz j:

We have agreed to do it in January.
Lusk 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Grit?

I've just eaten a bagful of the stuff, in a hopeless attempt to help me digest this thread.
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Then do it, please don't cancel or you might not get another offer.
In reply to Lusk:

My phone uses auto correct.
In reply to liz j:
Will do.

Did you really talk to Dawes about me and Parthion Shot?

You have a climbing partner with the same name as the lady in my thread.

Sav
Post edited at 21:08
 dr_botnik 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Johnny Dawes is an amazing exception to the norm... i don't think he's a good example of what is "normal" although definitely a good inspiration for what is potentially "possible"

i don't think its worth comparing yourself, whoever you are, to such yardsticks. When i go running, i don't compare myself to usain bolt, i just try and beat my last time. On some mornings, the challenge is just to get out of bed and actually just DO it. Is that a challenge you regularly face up to Sav? Be honest with yourself first. trying to impress people on the internet might make you happy in the short term, but that attention is short lived. you will have to live with yourself for the rest of your life, so its only yourself you should really be trying to impress huh?
Post edited at 21:06
 liz j 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

>

> I agree with you on the footballers.....

>
>
> Sav

I'm glad we agree about something!!
 Bulls Crack 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Sav

After reading (nearly) all of this thread, have you thought about renaming yourself Savvy?
 dr_botnik 16 Nov 2014
In reply to dr_botnik:

On second thoughts mate, whats the harm in aspiring to climb an E7 huh? best of luck to you, hope you reach your goals and climb like the stone monkey : )
Lusk 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> In the Croydon Mountaineering Club there are people who are in their fifties and sixties who climb and one runs marathons and does base camp treks.

Oi! Nowt wrong with being in your 50s, we can still do it, just takes longer to get fit!!!


In reply to dr_botnik:

Hi.

Some people don't like him and some people would rather inspire to be like F 9 b + sport climbers. He is my hero for trad climbing.

Why don't you think Dawes is normal?

At Craggy 2 Gareth Squires, Marcus Boal and myself thought that Alex Honnold and Ueli
Steck are aliens.

I face it that challenge sometimes.

Good question at the end.

You could be right.

Sav
In reply to liz j:

Agreed
 Brass Nipples 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

And there's people in their 20s and 30s who can't do it. Let not pretend 50 is old in climbing years. It usually not physical but mental that holds most back. Older people have better stamina

 dr_botnik 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I think JD is not normal, he's exceptional. He's a good hero to aspire to, his bravery and what he achieved was a leap forward at the time, changing what people even thought was possible on rock.
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Thank you.

But I do not know all and everything about climbing.

Sav
 Michael Gordon 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Dawes, Steck, Honnold etc; none of these are 'normal' (by definition). If they were 'normal' they wouldn't have achieved what they have.
In reply to Lusk:

Agreed.

In reply to Orgsm:

Agreed
 Billhook 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

On your blog I see a couple of photos of you nearly 2 feet off the ground. what is the highest you've got from the ground?
 jimjimjim 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Is it f##k
 Bulls Crack 16 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> Thank you.

> But I do not know all and everything about climbing.

> Sav

who does?!
In reply to dr_botnik:

Hello.

I got your e-mail but my phone died and I am recharging it at present.

I would love to climb like the stone monkey.

Thank you.

In reply to Dave Perry:

Hello Dave.

I do not know how far I have got of the ground....

I do get quite high up on easy probelms - but not to the top.

Back at Craggy 1 when I toproped I did get to the top of routes,

Is outdoor bouldering a lot different - I have only done it as part of my PyB course?

Sav
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I agree with you and a lot of people think these 'abnormal' climbers are crazy.

I am not a huge Honnold and Steck fan but I am a massive Dawes fan.

Do you think Megos, Sharma and Ondra are not normal?

Sav
Post edited at 23:55
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I agree with you.

I don't think anyone does.

Sav
In reply to jimjimjim:

Hi.

I don't get your message.

Sav
 Steve Parker 17 Nov 2014
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Interesting thread. I'm wondering whether it's possible to do Indian Face with a ski pole and a yoyo, personally. Can anyone offer any advice about the moves getting to that pesky ledge?

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