In reply to Jon Bracey:
> I think your correct to ask these questions, and from what I have read its still not completely clear if Ines climbed ground up on her first attempt...? Or after abseil inspection like Dave M on the first ascent.
> It's up to the journalists to make these facts clear in my opinion.
Just been chatting more to Ines about her attempt on The Hurting on Friday 20th Feb. Here’s what she’s told me on the phone this morning:
• She wasn’t planning an on-sight of The Hurting
• On Friday she abseiled down the wall (as she knew Dave had done prior to the 1st ascent) to check out the gear placements which she knew were sketchy.
• The abseil rope was too far to the right and so she was only able to look at two gear placements in the initial groove. She didn’t/couldn’t practice any moves.
• She then pulled the ropes and led the route, taking two falls – one onto a pecker on the sequence below the roof, one onto a cam on the upper wall.
• Seppi seconded the route, removing all the gear.
• Ines then top-roped (once) the final few moves on the upper wall which were a long way above the last possible bits of gear.
• On Friday, the route wasn’t in great winter condition, and even though the cracks were white and there was snow on all the ledges, she felt that overall, the route probably wasn’t wintery enough.
• Sunday was of course a ground-up lead.
I didn’t have all the details of this before now, and I’m certainly not taking the role of “journalist” in this – just a climber who belayed a pal. Hope this clarifies things. Now... back to Steve and Heike’s point about congratulating.