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UKC Fit Club Week 431
I'm getting a little bit of cabin fever with my embargo on climbing, tell me all about your climbing weeks while I wipe my sweaty fingertips on a towel...
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=618117
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: No-brainer this week, if you've not seen or heard what Ben Moon has bee up to this week, then come out of your cave, take the wax out of your ears and watch this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2595
The most amazing thing for me is that I watched a video of him last year trying to repeat and old 8a (statement possibly?) and not being able to do it clean! To get back up to this level at his age (or any age!) is just incredible and so inspiring.
Last week's posters:
mattrm - keep pushing that average up, what would you like to end the year on?
mbh - Utra sounds like hell to me! How are those chest pains?
Joughton - Good job on the E4, how's your trad head?
The Ex-Engineer - Shame about the unproductive week, any more like this week?
Mutley - Ben Moon's ascent is utterly inspiring, what a legend.
Exile - Countash done! Brilliant, whats next?!
Flopsicle - I think you are doing really well for motivation considering your busy lifestyle!
Ian Rock - Re; replacing fat with muscle, do you think you look better in the mirror? Sometimes a good indicator?
Tyler - I can't believe new shoes didn't up your grades, what a con!
Cha1n - Welcome! Nearly ticking 7c in 2 RP attempts sounds like you are on track for your big goal
Cheese Monkey - Really well done on the Triathlon, glad you did it i guess?
AJM - 200km week! Sounds like you are thinking hard about riding tactics, hope it pays off
Luke Owens - Flowers isn't going anywhere, don't bang your head against it until you resent it, maybe another route is a good idea
Dandan82 - How's that resting working out for you? Gone INSANE YET WIBBLEWIBBLE SNORT
hms - Awesome work on HoM! I have really fond memories of that route, I think the barndoor/toe release was tricky for me too
alexm198 - I know little to nothing about mountaineering, but Chamonix seems a good place to be!
Ally Smith - Still amazed by the work you can do on a tweaked finger...
planetmarshall - Is all your max strength training in the gym? any wall-based max strength stuff?
Humperdink - Interested to hear about Wednesdays race...
0.5viking - How are those roof routes coming along?
Joyce - Underhand getting tantalisingly close
Just Tintin - Argh, lurgy, rubbish! Have you managed to shift it yet?
AWOL: Nick Russell, Biscuit, creedence, roadrunner5, Lancer.
I'm getting a little bit of cabin fever with my embargo on climbing, tell me all about your climbing weeks while I wipe my sweaty fingertips on a towel...
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=618117
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: No-brainer this week, if you've not seen or heard what Ben Moon has bee up to this week, then come out of your cave, take the wax out of your ears and watch this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2595
The most amazing thing for me is that I watched a video of him last year trying to repeat and old 8a (statement possibly?) and not being able to do it clean! To get back up to this level at his age (or any age!) is just incredible and so inspiring.
Last week's posters:
mattrm - keep pushing that average up, what would you like to end the year on?
mbh - Utra sounds like hell to me! How are those chest pains?
Joughton - Good job on the E4, how's your trad head?
The Ex-Engineer - Shame about the unproductive week, any more like this week?
Mutley - Ben Moon's ascent is utterly inspiring, what a legend.
Exile - Countash done! Brilliant, whats next?!
Flopsicle - I think you are doing really well for motivation considering your busy lifestyle!
Ian Rock - Re; replacing fat with muscle, do you think you look better in the mirror? Sometimes a good indicator?
Tyler - I can't believe new shoes didn't up your grades, what a con!
Cha1n - Welcome! Nearly ticking 7c in 2 RP attempts sounds like you are on track for your big goal
Cheese Monkey - Really well done on the Triathlon, glad you did it i guess?
AJM - 200km week! Sounds like you are thinking hard about riding tactics, hope it pays off
Luke Owens - Flowers isn't going anywhere, don't bang your head against it until you resent it, maybe another route is a good idea
Dandan82 - How's that resting working out for you? Gone INSANE YET WIBBLEWIBBLE SNORT
hms - Awesome work on HoM! I have really fond memories of that route, I think the barndoor/toe release was tricky for me too
alexm198 - I know little to nothing about mountaineering, but Chamonix seems a good place to be!
Ally Smith - Still amazed by the work you can do on a tweaked finger...
planetmarshall - Is all your max strength training in the gym? any wall-based max strength stuff?
Humperdink - Interested to hear about Wednesdays race...
0.5viking - How are those roof routes coming along?
Joyce - Underhand getting tantalisingly close
Just Tintin - Argh, lurgy, rubbish! Have you managed to shift it yet?
AWOL: Nick Russell, Biscuit, creedence, roadrunner5, Lancer.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club again Dan - yep, well chuffed.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr 10min road ride. (Maintain winter endurance)
T: 2hrs climbing. Led Look Sharp, (E2 5c,** - butch for slate,) and seconded Treacle Slab, (E3 5c* - easier but bolder than Look Sharp,) at Tilberthwaite Quarry. Went well, the present slate mission is coming together
W: 45min road run - hard work as my calves were killing after 'front pointing' on little slate holds yesterday! (maintain winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: 1hr 30 - 8 x traverses at wall, (6b - 7a,) and 300 sit-ups. Good to do a training session you live in fear of every so often! (Rock endurance)
S: Rest
S: 2hrs on Red wall this morning - laps on one of the E3 6a's (Endurance / power endurance,) and a quick play on Exeguy (E6 6b) to see what the moves felt like. (All moves bar the three crux ones done in isolation / short links.) May also get a fell run in this afternoon(?)
A good solid week.
Getting on Exeguy this morning, as well as playing on Curtain Call in Hodge Close a few weeks ago, is suggesting that I've got to the point where I need to put some proper work into finger strength to go to the next level - this will probably form the basis of my Autumn plan once I've led Malice and been away in the Summer.
Thanks for doing fit club again Dan - yep, well chuffed.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr 10min road ride. (Maintain winter endurance)
T: 2hrs climbing. Led Look Sharp, (E2 5c,** - butch for slate,) and seconded Treacle Slab, (E3 5c* - easier but bolder than Look Sharp,) at Tilberthwaite Quarry. Went well, the present slate mission is coming together
W: 45min road run - hard work as my calves were killing after 'front pointing' on little slate holds yesterday! (maintain winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: 1hr 30 - 8 x traverses at wall, (6b - 7a,) and 300 sit-ups. Good to do a training session you live in fear of every so often! (Rock endurance)
S: Rest
S: 2hrs on Red wall this morning - laps on one of the E3 6a's (Endurance / power endurance,) and a quick play on Exeguy (E6 6b) to see what the moves felt like. (All moves bar the three crux ones done in isolation / short links.) May also get a fell run in this afternoon(?)
A good solid week.
Getting on Exeguy this morning, as well as playing on Curtain Call in Hodge Close a few weeks ago, is suggesting that I've got to the point where I need to put some proper work into finger strength to go to the next level - this will probably form the basis of my Autumn plan once I've led Malice and been away in the Summer.
In reply to Dandan: thanks again for doing the stats Dan.
Coming to the end of the first rest day on the Tarn trip, which seems to be going reasonably well so far. Climbing with three other people all of whom have repointed harder than me has been interesting though, learning lots about training and how little I actually do!
Mon - train
Tue - driving
Wed - more driving. Arrived at the campsite at 5pm, hitched into the gorge at 6pm and got three routes done at L'Oasif before it got dark, 6c, 7a, 7a.
Thurs - back at L'Oasif, more mileage, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 7a+. Went for a swim waiting for shade then did 6b+ 6c+.
Fri - Tresor de Zebre, did 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a then on to Calmez Vous. Failed on a very intense sequencey 7b onsight attempt, but managed another 7a+.
Sat - Planete Causse. Warmed up on 6a+ and 6b, then 7b and 7a+ onsight.
Sun - rest!
So its been a good few days just getting in a lot of onsight mileage and seeing where I'm at. Feeling like I'm on a time limit on harder routes as I'm getting pumped really quickly, and I'm also finding the last route of the day very strenuous regardless if difficulty so I think fitness is a major issue but one I anticipated. Hopefully if I stay true to form it'll come back with a few more days on and another rest day.
Cheers, Jake
Coming to the end of the first rest day on the Tarn trip, which seems to be going reasonably well so far. Climbing with three other people all of whom have repointed harder than me has been interesting though, learning lots about training and how little I actually do!
Mon - train
Tue - driving
Wed - more driving. Arrived at the campsite at 5pm, hitched into the gorge at 6pm and got three routes done at L'Oasif before it got dark, 6c, 7a, 7a.
Thurs - back at L'Oasif, more mileage, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 7a+. Went for a swim waiting for shade then did 6b+ 6c+.
Fri - Tresor de Zebre, did 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a then on to Calmez Vous. Failed on a very intense sequencey 7b onsight attempt, but managed another 7a+.
Sat - Planete Causse. Warmed up on 6a+ and 6b, then 7b and 7a+ onsight.
Sun - rest!
So its been a good few days just getting in a lot of onsight mileage and seeing where I'm at. Feeling like I'm on a time limit on harder routes as I'm getting pumped really quickly, and I'm also finding the last route of the day very strenuous regardless if difficulty so I think fitness is a major issue but one I anticipated. Hopefully if I stay true to form it'll come back with a few more days on and another rest day.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Dandan:
Hello dandan. Yep, this was my "what would Ben do?" week. I gave myself a much needed kick up the botty. I loved that statement video too. It's great to put it in context of rainshadow now.
M-200 press ups, 100 pull ups, 80 with +8kgs, then two laps of beastmaker 5b 6 seconds on, 4 seconds off. Scored 61/84 which compared to 81/84 when I last did it (in March!). Some of those holds were easier versions this time so it isn't even a fair comparison. Must get stronger. Also 28 leg raises as was tired and form started to go.
T-hour of power, did grinks (3rd easiest) all except the last "nails" problem which was beyond me still. Might have been because tired. Then tried yellow (5th) but that really was too hard so did 9 pinkles (4th) before getting shut down and calling it a day. 100 press ups.
W-200 press ups. 97 pull ups incl 72 w/+8kgs and 5 w/+16kgs.
A proper 61/84 on the 6 second on/4 second off 5b beastmaker.
T-did all grinks (including "nails" first go) then all but two pinkles. Felt like that was a good hour and a half or so. 75 problems.
F-rest
S-sort of rest day. 50 easy problems at mini works (the baby was excellent) then 66/84 on beastmaker. Pleased with that as it must be some improvement.
S-150 press ups. Pottering at Cratcliffe boulders. Little to report other than: 1. everyone including the baby had a nice time (she loves climbing outside even more than inside despite the lack of slides) & 2. egg arête got a much needed tick. It is very difficult for f6A+ and not at all like the sort of thing the beastmaker trains. This was unfinished business for me and in all honesty was a preferable tick to another f6C repeat. Not all grades are equal!
All in a fantastic week training wise. Ben has given my mojo a kick and it's now well and truly sorted. I've also been reading through Steve McClure's excellent bio and really enjoying it. That's good for the psyche too.
Things for the future: might have to think about when to up my game form wise. For the next few weeks I'm fairly certain I will make gains no matter what poor form I use. But if I want to get serious about this and get strong enough for Piss then I will have to do full range pull ups and lock off. This quite appeals to me actually.
Any views on the importance of form????
Goals to achieve by November:
1. Get ripped (as an end in itself)
2. Soft on the G (Gardoms, F7B)
3. Kidney stone (Gardoms, F7B)
4. Piss (Burbage, F7B)
5. Build a wall in the garage.
Hello dandan. Yep, this was my "what would Ben do?" week. I gave myself a much needed kick up the botty. I loved that statement video too. It's great to put it in context of rainshadow now.
M-200 press ups, 100 pull ups, 80 with +8kgs, then two laps of beastmaker 5b 6 seconds on, 4 seconds off. Scored 61/84 which compared to 81/84 when I last did it (in March!). Some of those holds were easier versions this time so it isn't even a fair comparison. Must get stronger. Also 28 leg raises as was tired and form started to go.
T-hour of power, did grinks (3rd easiest) all except the last "nails" problem which was beyond me still. Might have been because tired. Then tried yellow (5th) but that really was too hard so did 9 pinkles (4th) before getting shut down and calling it a day. 100 press ups.
W-200 press ups. 97 pull ups incl 72 w/+8kgs and 5 w/+16kgs.
A proper 61/84 on the 6 second on/4 second off 5b beastmaker.
T-did all grinks (including "nails" first go) then all but two pinkles. Felt like that was a good hour and a half or so. 75 problems.
F-rest
S-sort of rest day. 50 easy problems at mini works (the baby was excellent) then 66/84 on beastmaker. Pleased with that as it must be some improvement.
S-150 press ups. Pottering at Cratcliffe boulders. Little to report other than: 1. everyone including the baby had a nice time (she loves climbing outside even more than inside despite the lack of slides) & 2. egg arête got a much needed tick. It is very difficult for f6A+ and not at all like the sort of thing the beastmaker trains. This was unfinished business for me and in all honesty was a preferable tick to another f6C repeat. Not all grades are equal!
All in a fantastic week training wise. Ben has given my mojo a kick and it's now well and truly sorted. I've also been reading through Steve McClure's excellent bio and really enjoying it. That's good for the psyche too.
Things for the future: might have to think about when to up my game form wise. For the next few weeks I'm fairly certain I will make gains no matter what poor form I use. But if I want to get serious about this and get strong enough for Piss then I will have to do full range pull ups and lock off. This quite appeals to me actually.
Any views on the importance of form????
Goals to achieve by November:
1. Get ripped (as an end in itself)
2. Soft on the G (Gardoms, F7B)
3. Kidney stone (Gardoms, F7B)
4. Piss (Burbage, F7B)
5. Build a wall in the garage.
In reply to Mutl3y:
Personal view is that with the number of pullups you are doing, especially with added weight, you are obviously strong enough to do some proper one arm training on the beastmaker (lockoffs on the good crimps etc) and you'd get much more benefit from that for bouldering than from more two 2 arm pullups, regardless of form.
Personal view is that with the number of pullups you are doing, especially with added weight, you are obviously strong enough to do some proper one arm training on the beastmaker (lockoffs on the good crimps etc) and you'd get much more benefit from that for bouldering than from more two 2 arm pullups, regardless of form.
In reply to Si dH:
Cheers Si. Are you meaning something like...choose a hold on the BM....pull up on it...hold for 5 seconds...lower. Rest for say 10 secs....repeat?
I think I could put something like that in my routine. The pull ups are taking 20-odd minutes anyway so could alternate with lock offs or something.
Difficulty is working out what to do, not necessarily doing it...
Cheers Si. Are you meaning something like...choose a hold on the BM....pull up on it...hold for 5 seconds...lower. Rest for say 10 secs....repeat?
I think I could put something like that in my routine. The pull ups are taking 20-odd minutes anyway so could alternate with lock offs or something.
Difficulty is working out what to do, not necessarily doing it...
In reply to Dandan:
thanks for the stats, Dan. I found the best way to release the toe hook was not to use it at all in the first place! Slightly bimbled this week although did get to Cheddar one evening which was good.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. S&C x 3
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Dozen routes in pairs but nothing into the 7s.
T - cycle commute. Cheddar in evening with Cheesemonkey. Ticked Thermopylae (7b) which I'd pinged off the top of a couple of weeks back. 1 dog to get the clips in & remember the moves, then it went easily next go.
F - TCA trying new 6b-6c set. Got 10 of them. A couple more might go with practice, but a lot seemed flipping impossible!
S - S&C x 2. Was going to be x3 but got interrupted for quite a while & couldn't face going back to it.
S - Redpoint. 14 routes in pairs. Tried to stick to on-sighting, and had a go at 3 of the black core set (6c+ to 7a+). Came v close to topping one, was stumped by a move in the middle of another & just loathed the third so it was a dnf.
Should get out to Cheddar again this week - either Still Waters or something on Lion Rock. Would be nice to see if I can put SW to bed.
thanks for the stats, Dan. I found the best way to release the toe hook was not to use it at all in the first place! Slightly bimbled this week although did get to Cheddar one evening which was good.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. S&C x 3
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Dozen routes in pairs but nothing into the 7s.
T - cycle commute. Cheddar in evening with Cheesemonkey. Ticked Thermopylae (7b) which I'd pinged off the top of a couple of weeks back. 1 dog to get the clips in & remember the moves, then it went easily next go.
F - TCA trying new 6b-6c set. Got 10 of them. A couple more might go with practice, but a lot seemed flipping impossible!
S - S&C x 2. Was going to be x3 but got interrupted for quite a while & couldn't face going back to it.
S - Redpoint. 14 routes in pairs. Tried to stick to on-sighting, and had a go at 3 of the black core set (6c+ to 7a+). Came v close to topping one, was stumped by a move in the middle of another & just loathed the third so it was a dnf.
Should get out to Cheddar again this week - either Still Waters or something on Lion Rock. Would be nice to see if I can put SW to bed.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Yeah I think I'm going to have to make some changes for this September one.
Didn't go too well on the cycling front this week. Commuted every day, which is good, but no long ride - was going to Thursday but legs felt dead. Also had a crash, a dog dived under my wheels on the ride to work and I went flying! Grazes and bruises and stuff, thankfully no permanent damage to me or bike though. Currently at 353km this month and 41% of an Everest - aiming for 60% I think. I get just over 1% each day I commute but I think I should be able to throw in enough longer rides to do it. 75% would be the next rung up on the Strava challenge but that feels a long way off - thats over another 3km vertical before next Wednesday, and I've plans to climb this weekend not ride.
Climbing was mixed. Good solid wall session, did both 1-on-1-off and 1-on-2-off sessions which were good, hard, but quite skin trashing. I also went out bouldering and fell off with my hands on the good holds on what is probably an actually V6 version of the problem I did last weekend. Stupid to sneak defeat in like that, and I tore a flapper in the process, but it will definitely go and then theres a V7 version to do after that. Felt like good AnCap terrain, about 12 moves or so I think.
This weekend I went to cornwall. Beautiful sunset up on Haytor on the Friday night, went for a walk for an hour and a half or so although fairly gentle. Saturday was fully misted in. Did an HS at Chair Ladder. Turns out one of the crash bruises is right on the line a harness sits on. Doh! Today I therefore didn't do much as it hurt.
Probably going to do a fingerboard session later - my sessions vs plan doesn't look so good for this week.
Cheers Dan. Yeah I think I'm going to have to make some changes for this September one.
Didn't go too well on the cycling front this week. Commuted every day, which is good, but no long ride - was going to Thursday but legs felt dead. Also had a crash, a dog dived under my wheels on the ride to work and I went flying! Grazes and bruises and stuff, thankfully no permanent damage to me or bike though. Currently at 353km this month and 41% of an Everest - aiming for 60% I think. I get just over 1% each day I commute but I think I should be able to throw in enough longer rides to do it. 75% would be the next rung up on the Strava challenge but that feels a long way off - thats over another 3km vertical before next Wednesday, and I've plans to climb this weekend not ride.
Climbing was mixed. Good solid wall session, did both 1-on-1-off and 1-on-2-off sessions which were good, hard, but quite skin trashing. I also went out bouldering and fell off with my hands on the good holds on what is probably an actually V6 version of the problem I did last weekend. Stupid to sneak defeat in like that, and I tore a flapper in the process, but it will definitely go and then theres a V7 version to do after that. Felt like good AnCap terrain, about 12 moves or so I think.
This weekend I went to cornwall. Beautiful sunset up on Haytor on the Friday night, went for a walk for an hour and a half or so although fairly gentle. Saturday was fully misted in. Did an HS at Chair Ladder. Turns out one of the crash bruises is right on the line a harness sits on. Doh! Today I therefore didn't do much as it hurt.
Probably going to do a fingerboard session later - my sessions vs plan doesn't look so good for this week.
Post edited at 20:39
In reply to Dandan:
Chamonix is a pretty amazing place full stop!
Structured training is falling by the wayside a little bit at present but getting out is always good. Didn't manage to get any running routes sorted this week but having a rest day tomorrow so will get the map out and get planning.
M: Rain stopped play. Spent the day going quietly insane in the apartment.
T: Claggy weather but a good forecast for the next few days meant we decided to walk up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut for a few nights. Sopping wet approach in 2h30 with all the kit and food for 5 days.
W: Went for the Troussier Route on the Aiguille des Ciseaux, ended up off route on a horrible slab which my partner reckoned was at least UK 5b and had no gear to speak of that I'd have wanted to lean on, let alone fall on! Sketchy bodged abseil descent and hasty retreat to hut.
T: Ticked the Troussier. Long, complex descent of about 14-15 abseils.
F: Rest
S: Attempt on the Voie Normale, Aiguille de la Republique. Shut down by the weather about 3/4 of the way up. Lots more abseiling.
S: Slogged back down to the valley. 2hrs.
Last weeks' goals: ticks on Aiguille de la République - close but no cigar, Dent du Requin - nope and Aiguille de Ciseaux - boom! Plan some running routes - tomorrow's entertainment.
STG (this week): 3 ticks. Anywhere, anything. 1 run. 1 circuit session.
MTG (by end of July): 10 alpine ticks inc 1xTD. Back up to 40km/week. Sub 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. Le Ginat, N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
Chamonix is a pretty amazing place full stop!
Structured training is falling by the wayside a little bit at present but getting out is always good. Didn't manage to get any running routes sorted this week but having a rest day tomorrow so will get the map out and get planning.
M: Rain stopped play. Spent the day going quietly insane in the apartment.
T: Claggy weather but a good forecast for the next few days meant we decided to walk up to the Envers des Aiguilles hut for a few nights. Sopping wet approach in 2h30 with all the kit and food for 5 days.
W: Went for the Troussier Route on the Aiguille des Ciseaux, ended up off route on a horrible slab which my partner reckoned was at least UK 5b and had no gear to speak of that I'd have wanted to lean on, let alone fall on! Sketchy bodged abseil descent and hasty retreat to hut.
T: Ticked the Troussier. Long, complex descent of about 14-15 abseils.
F: Rest
S: Attempt on the Voie Normale, Aiguille de la Republique. Shut down by the weather about 3/4 of the way up. Lots more abseiling.
S: Slogged back down to the valley. 2hrs.
Last weeks' goals: ticks on Aiguille de la République - close but no cigar, Dent du Requin - nope and Aiguille de Ciseaux - boom! Plan some running routes - tomorrow's entertainment.
STG (this week): 3 ticks. Anywhere, anything. 1 run. 1 circuit session.
MTG (by end of July): 10 alpine ticks inc 1xTD. Back up to 40km/week. Sub 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. Le Ginat, N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
1
In reply to Tyler:
Such a great route! I ended up climbing it about 5 times...had a partner who was too short to do the crux span high up, meaning yours truly had to go up again to get the draws back. I'm struggling to think of a better pitch at the grade that I've done...
Such a great route! I ended up climbing it about 5 times...had a partner who was too short to do the crux span high up, meaning yours truly had to go up again to get the draws back. I'm struggling to think of a better pitch at the grade that I've done...
Post edited at 20:52
In reply to Tyler: Yes! I thought it was stunning, certainly the highlight of the trip so far, with some very memorable moves!
In reply to Dandan:
M: Meant to climb but had to visit hospital
T: Outhouse, four goes on yellow L16 clockwise; -6L anti; -8L anti; LL anti. Meant to be an easy session as climbing on Thur
W: Rest
T: Kilnsey. One go putting the clips in, first go to boss but grabbed draw, second go to ear but didn't really get any movement off it. Third go to boss but grabbed draw again. Fourth go rubbish. Quick dogged go on SW to finish.
F: Rest
S: Rest but did Crib Goch in the rain so actually felt pretty boxed this morning
S: Kilnsey , one go putting clips on then fell with hand on jug in the break, held it but only had it on one joint so when bought hand up to match I fell. Next go to ear, third go to glued crimp only. Quick dogged TR go on SW and NMJTC. 10 pull ups. Still making progress on route bit disappointed not to have sent although I expected very little from today.
M: Meant to climb but had to visit hospital
T: Outhouse, four goes on yellow L16 clockwise; -6L anti; -8L anti; LL anti. Meant to be an easy session as climbing on Thur
W: Rest
T: Kilnsey. One go putting the clips in, first go to boss but grabbed draw, second go to ear but didn't really get any movement off it. Third go to boss but grabbed draw again. Fourth go rubbish. Quick dogged go on SW to finish.
F: Rest
S: Rest but did Crib Goch in the rain so actually felt pretty boxed this morning
S: Kilnsey , one go putting clips on then fell with hand on jug in the break, held it but only had it on one joint so when bought hand up to match I fell. Next go to ear, third go to glued crimp only. Quick dogged TR go on SW and NMJTC. 10 pull ups. Still making progress on route bit disappointed not to have sent although I expected very little from today.
In reply to Dandan:
Yes very pleased I did it! Quite proud
A busy, good but painful week.
M- sore from tri. cycle home from work
T- very sore from tri. Gentle cycle commute
W- starting to feel human again. cheddar, 7c project - directoonima. Done all the moves! Linked first section up to jugs. Feeling doable
T- cheddar, 7b Thermopylae with hms. Quick play on TR then went for it. First go pulled a hold off, second go pulled my shoulder then pinged off the last move. Gutted. Shoulder very very sore
F- cycle commute, drive to Devon
S- am went wake boarding for the first time! Great fun! Managed to get up on short line plenty and long line once. Pm Drove down to Falmouth then went out kayaking with me dad. Finished up with loading a motorcycle and lift into a van. Hard work
S- Right Angle HS at Gurnards Head. Great route, got a bit wet from the impressive swell! Drove home and unloaded motorcycle
Absolutely dead now. Both my shoulders are in a bad way. I think my right one has given up from overcompensating for the left. Back hurts from lifting n shifting. Hips hurt from wakeboarding. Knees hurt. New hurts. Everything is pain. Most concerned about shoulders though I think i need a few days off!
STG- Link top section on 7c project. Stop aching
MTG- 7c by end of Autumn. More E2 5c
LTG- not sure yet
Yes very pleased I did it! Quite proud
A busy, good but painful week.
M- sore from tri. cycle home from work
T- very sore from tri. Gentle cycle commute
W- starting to feel human again. cheddar, 7c project - directoonima. Done all the moves! Linked first section up to jugs. Feeling doable
T- cheddar, 7b Thermopylae with hms. Quick play on TR then went for it. First go pulled a hold off, second go pulled my shoulder then pinged off the last move. Gutted. Shoulder very very sore
F- cycle commute, drive to Devon
S- am went wake boarding for the first time! Great fun! Managed to get up on short line plenty and long line once. Pm Drove down to Falmouth then went out kayaking with me dad. Finished up with loading a motorcycle and lift into a van. Hard work
S- Right Angle HS at Gurnards Head. Great route, got a bit wet from the impressive swell! Drove home and unloaded motorcycle
Absolutely dead now. Both my shoulders are in a bad way. I think my right one has given up from overcompensating for the left. Back hurts from lifting n shifting. Hips hurt from wakeboarding. Knees hurt. New hurts. Everything is pain. Most concerned about shoulders though I think i need a few days off!
STG- Link top section on 7c project. Stop aching
MTG- 7c by end of Autumn. More E2 5c
LTG- not sure yet
In reply to Dandan:
Anyone any tips for beating repetitive minor shoulder injury? Although minor this is the worst so far this week
Anyone any tips for beating repetitive minor shoulder injury? Although minor this is the worst so far this week
In reply to Dandan: A better week, but that's not saying much...
M - Boulder @ Brookes
T - work
W - nowt
T - day off with GF
F -Routes @ Brookes
S - lunch out & work
S - work
Currently working in the Brecon Beacons and will be until Wed but I'll then have Thu-Sat in the Lakes Roll on some Extreme Rock ticks!
M - Boulder @ Brookes
T - work
W - nowt
T - day off with GF
F -Routes @ Brookes
S - lunch out & work
S - work
Currently working in the Brecon Beacons and will be until Wed but I'll then have Thu-Sat in the Lakes Roll on some Extreme Rock ticks!
In reply to Dandan:
Slow start this week. GF starts a new job tomorrow so we squeezed in a few days away as she'll have limited holiday for the rest of the year. This means I've had to do lots of training in the latter part of the week, so totally broken today. Need another weeks holiday now!
M - Drive to York from Sheffield. Never been before, nice place. Lots of walking around, lots of eating fattening foods, drove a boat around for 1 hour. Mobile training setup at the hotel (BM2000 on a powerbar) and did 7:3s AeroCap (front 3, open handed) and a half-ass attempt of a core workout. More food at French restuarant on the evening.
T - Fattening breakfast and Lunch in York, then drive to Whitby (again, never been before). Lots more walking followed by more fattening food in the evening.
W - Decided to cut the trip short, so after more fattening food for breakfast and lunch (fish and chips at the seaside), we drove back to Sheffield (4 hours!). 7:3s AeroCap (front 3, open handed) and a few core exercises.
T - Convince GF to belay me briefly on Powerplant (8a) at Chee Dale. Dogged up to get the clips in but it was so cold that I couldn't feel my fingers, so stripped it once I got to the top. Seems very hard for the grade and have had to take it off the 8a list for now as it appears to require a right leg kneebar and kneebars are hurting my hamstring tendon which I tweaked badly a month or so ago. Go to the works and do most of the wasps circuit (up to Font 6C) mainly onsite but a few took a go or two. Out to a restuarant on the evening to eat tonnes of tapas.
F - Lowish intensity FB session and 5 sets of pullups.
S - Climbing works. Finish off remaining wasps then did the wasp on the left side of the comp wall, roughly 7B but hard to tell as I was quite tired and it took me a while to figure out the moves. Two sets of core routines. Shattered
S - Foot on campussing (AeroPow) at the works, 2 sets (wanted to do 3 sets but got there late and had to squeeze in the aerocap). 40 mins AeroCap, actually got to do the last set on the main walls, which was way more fun than traversing the kiddies wall.
Bit of a poor weak for outdoor climbing, which is what I love but knew I'd have to sacrifice things once I started training. A bit stunned at how hard Powerplant felt, made me realise that I haven't got long enough to realistically tick an 8a of that length before my birthday so have decided to look at shorter ones instead. Think hot fun closing could be a good candidate. 7B boulder into ? looks short and a little bit of history with it being the first 8a in the peak district (according to a blog post of Steve Macs that I read).
Really keen to get my first 8a ticked asap to take the pressure off and then I can start to have a play on other classics (of all grades) and get the occasional trip up to Yorkshire too.
Ally - Thanks for the comment last week, I only just saw it. I was keen to do Powerplant as Steve Mac said it'd be in his top 6 8a's (the rest were in Yorkshire) but I've got a tweaky hamstring issue on my right leg at the moment which gives me grief on kneebars and heelhooks on that side. That's screwed with a few of my potential choices (Powerplant, roof warrior, wanted to have a good look at rumble in the jungle). Shame about Hot Fun Closing being low in the grade (I'm 6'1), I don't usually like to do something low in the grade for my first of a grade.
Slow start this week. GF starts a new job tomorrow so we squeezed in a few days away as she'll have limited holiday for the rest of the year. This means I've had to do lots of training in the latter part of the week, so totally broken today. Need another weeks holiday now!
M - Drive to York from Sheffield. Never been before, nice place. Lots of walking around, lots of eating fattening foods, drove a boat around for 1 hour. Mobile training setup at the hotel (BM2000 on a powerbar) and did 7:3s AeroCap (front 3, open handed) and a half-ass attempt of a core workout. More food at French restuarant on the evening.
T - Fattening breakfast and Lunch in York, then drive to Whitby (again, never been before). Lots more walking followed by more fattening food in the evening.
W - Decided to cut the trip short, so after more fattening food for breakfast and lunch (fish and chips at the seaside), we drove back to Sheffield (4 hours!). 7:3s AeroCap (front 3, open handed) and a few core exercises.
T - Convince GF to belay me briefly on Powerplant (8a) at Chee Dale. Dogged up to get the clips in but it was so cold that I couldn't feel my fingers, so stripped it once I got to the top. Seems very hard for the grade and have had to take it off the 8a list for now as it appears to require a right leg kneebar and kneebars are hurting my hamstring tendon which I tweaked badly a month or so ago. Go to the works and do most of the wasps circuit (up to Font 6C) mainly onsite but a few took a go or two. Out to a restuarant on the evening to eat tonnes of tapas.
F - Lowish intensity FB session and 5 sets of pullups.
S - Climbing works. Finish off remaining wasps then did the wasp on the left side of the comp wall, roughly 7B but hard to tell as I was quite tired and it took me a while to figure out the moves. Two sets of core routines. Shattered
S - Foot on campussing (AeroPow) at the works, 2 sets (wanted to do 3 sets but got there late and had to squeeze in the aerocap). 40 mins AeroCap, actually got to do the last set on the main walls, which was way more fun than traversing the kiddies wall.
Bit of a poor weak for outdoor climbing, which is what I love but knew I'd have to sacrifice things once I started training. A bit stunned at how hard Powerplant felt, made me realise that I haven't got long enough to realistically tick an 8a of that length before my birthday so have decided to look at shorter ones instead. Think hot fun closing could be a good candidate. 7B boulder into ? looks short and a little bit of history with it being the first 8a in the peak district (according to a blog post of Steve Macs that I read).
Really keen to get my first 8a ticked asap to take the pressure off and then I can start to have a play on other classics (of all grades) and get the occasional trip up to Yorkshire too.
Ally - Thanks for the comment last week, I only just saw it. I was keen to do Powerplant as Steve Mac said it'd be in his top 6 8a's (the rest were in Yorkshire) but I've got a tweaky hamstring issue on my right leg at the moment which gives me grief on kneebars and heelhooks on that side. That's screwed with a few of my potential choices (Powerplant, roof warrior, wanted to have a good look at rumble in the jungle). Shame about Hot Fun Closing being low in the grade (I'm 6'1), I don't usually like to do something low in the grade for my first of a grade.
Post edited at 21:35
In reply to Mutl3y:
Longer rests between attempts than that -one ar! Locks offs are fairly intensive, especially on elbows.
But yes, jumpmin to position or use your other arm to get there, hold for 5-10 seconds, then lower down (ideally with a bit of control). If you can do it easily on a jug or big hold, move to a good crimp. I've been doing some training this year in this way on the better crimps on the bm2000. Using a thumb catch on the end makes it a bit easier too, giving a way to progress.
Longer rests between attempts than that -one ar! Locks offs are fairly intensive, especially on elbows.
But yes, jumpmin to position or use your other arm to get there, hold for 5-10 seconds, then lower down (ideally with a bit of control). If you can do it easily on a jug or big hold, move to a good crimp. I've been doing some training this year in this way on the better crimps on the bm2000. Using a thumb catch on the end makes it a bit easier too, giving a way to progress.
In reply to Si dH:
You are talking one arm lock offs? Well I'll give it a go but would be massively surprised if I can do anything other than collapse back down to earth. I thought you meant two arm lock off.
Think I'm going to have to research progression. Want to make the big strength gains (don't we all?)....must be something more productive I can do anyway. Cheers.
You are talking one arm lock offs? Well I'll give it a go but would be massively surprised if I can do anything other than collapse back down to earth. I thought you meant two arm lock off.
Think I'm going to have to research progression. Want to make the big strength gains (don't we all?)....must be something more productive I can do anyway. Cheers.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I'm suffering with bicipital tendonitis - not allowed to lift my arm above my head at the moment and from everything I've read, a month of seems the best course of action. My job is the issue and whilst I can cope with that, the climbing on top is a bit too much.
Soz
I'm suffering with bicipital tendonitis - not allowed to lift my arm above my head at the moment and from everything I've read, a month of seems the best course of action. My job is the issue and whilst I can cope with that, the climbing on top is a bit too much.
Soz
In reply to Dandan:
New to the fit club but its worth a shot. It was a stressful week and a brilliant weekend to celebrate.
M: first geography exam and some routes at Wilton 1 in the evening with a scary moment that nearly killed me and my partner when he nearly fell off the prow still roped up.
T: Bouldering then revision until the early hours
W: Revision all day then the pub quiz in the evening won a bottle of proseco and £50.
T: Bouldering in the morning and lots of last minute revision until the early hours again
F: Final geography exam then Pub to celebrate end of exams.
S: Asleep most of the day but had a shower still drunk at 7PM and went to the pub again, C'mon its the end of exams!
S: woke up with a massive hangover then went Bouldering at Holcome Boulders at about 6PM and slid down a steep grass hill on top of my bag.
This week im going to just try and get out and climb every day now I have finished and try and push myself for a 7A Boulder problem!
New to the fit club but its worth a shot. It was a stressful week and a brilliant weekend to celebrate.
M: first geography exam and some routes at Wilton 1 in the evening with a scary moment that nearly killed me and my partner when he nearly fell off the prow still roped up.
T: Bouldering then revision until the early hours
W: Revision all day then the pub quiz in the evening won a bottle of proseco and £50.
T: Bouldering in the morning and lots of last minute revision until the early hours again
F: Final geography exam then Pub to celebrate end of exams.
S: Asleep most of the day but had a shower still drunk at 7PM and went to the pub again, C'mon its the end of exams!
S: woke up with a massive hangover then went Bouldering at Holcome Boulders at about 6PM and slid down a steep grass hill on top of my bag.
This week im going to just try and get out and climb every day now I have finished and try and push myself for a 7A Boulder problem!
In reply to cha1n:
Lots of things have come off Hot Fun Closing - even if you're tall i don't think it's low in the grade! Kudos is nails IMHO
Font 7B start (Kudos) plus an outro lead you to the break; recover if you can! Then some long reaches, or bunched rockovers over the top bulge.
Lots of things have come off Hot Fun Closing - even if you're tall i don't think it's low in the grade! Kudos is nails IMHO
Font 7B start (Kudos) plus an outro lead you to the break; recover if you can! Then some long reaches, or bunched rockovers over the top bulge.
In reply to Dandan:
...just got to avoid the holds that make it hurt!
Been feeling very fatigued this week just gone, but managed to maintain the psyche and push on through to finish >90% of the prescribed training sessions; the great thing is that sessions that would have destroyed me for days this time last month I’m now completing without any DOMS
Some of those sessions have been completed at the eleventh hour (or later) further adding to work induced fatigue, so I’m looking forward to the a lighter week of training and getting some sleep in!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger (all known tweakers – need re-thinking).
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- R&R week – need to buy some black-out blinds – too much early morning daylight for my body clock to cope with!
- Get up to Yorkshire at least once – Mandela if dry, otherwise get back on Cry Freedom.
Last week:
M - Bit sore & tired from training the day before – Rest & Stretch.
T - 10 hours at work, so shouldn’t have been too surprised by my lacklustre Tor psyche! It was warm and muggy too. Ended up trying a 3 move 7B/+ and giving myself a split, so worked the Mecca Traverse (8a+) as its slopers and heel/toes galore. Got a 2nd wind and did 15x 1on/1off foot-on campus session when I got home. 120 push-ups too. Finished at 00:20
W - Rest/furked; Travel to London. Sore hamstring from heelhooking, but a surprising lack of DOMS from the other training; guess I must finally be super-compensating !
T - Travel home from London; maintained the psyche and did some fingerboarding (2: 33,33,33, +2.5 repeaters) at home followed by An-cap at Frodsham. Smashed all the problems I struggled with in the heat last week. Good session, but home late (22:45) and reet tired.
F - Planned rest. Stretched and did some DIY
S - Raven Tor 9-5; very humid. Felt rubbish warming up, and split tip prevented me getting on most routes. Mecca Traverse dogged x3. Got all the moves but releasing a knee scum and dropping on to a heel toe is nails! Did the wiggy 7B/+ on TR just before leaving then 10 sets 7:3 aero-cap when home. Got beta for RRG project – need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
S - 5hours caving for $hits&giggles. Should have trained when I got home to have completed all the set sessions this week. Up early today; so I will do the missing fingerboard session now instead (once the coffee has soaked in!)
> Ally Smith - Still amazed by the work you can do on a tweaked finger...
...just got to avoid the holds that make it hurt!
Been feeling very fatigued this week just gone, but managed to maintain the psyche and push on through to finish >90% of the prescribed training sessions; the great thing is that sessions that would have destroyed me for days this time last month I’m now completing without any DOMS
Some of those sessions have been completed at the eleventh hour (or later) further adding to work induced fatigue, so I’m looking forward to the a lighter week of training and getting some sleep in!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger (all known tweakers – need re-thinking).
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- R&R week – need to buy some black-out blinds – too much early morning daylight for my body clock to cope with!
- Get up to Yorkshire at least once – Mandela if dry, otherwise get back on Cry Freedom.
Last week:
M - Bit sore & tired from training the day before – Rest & Stretch.
T - 10 hours at work, so shouldn’t have been too surprised by my lacklustre Tor psyche! It was warm and muggy too. Ended up trying a 3 move 7B/+ and giving myself a split, so worked the Mecca Traverse (8a+) as its slopers and heel/toes galore. Got a 2nd wind and did 15x 1on/1off foot-on campus session when I got home. 120 push-ups too. Finished at 00:20
W - Rest/furked; Travel to London. Sore hamstring from heelhooking, but a surprising lack of DOMS from the other training; guess I must finally be super-compensating !
T - Travel home from London; maintained the psyche and did some fingerboarding (2: 33,33,33, +2.5 repeaters) at home followed by An-cap at Frodsham. Smashed all the problems I struggled with in the heat last week. Good session, but home late (22:45) and reet tired.
F - Planned rest. Stretched and did some DIY
S - Raven Tor 9-5; very humid. Felt rubbish warming up, and split tip prevented me getting on most routes. Mecca Traverse dogged x3. Got all the moves but releasing a knee scum and dropping on to a heel toe is nails! Did the wiggy 7B/+ on TR just before leaving then 10 sets 7:3 aero-cap when home. Got beta for RRG project – need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
S - 5hours caving for $hits&giggles. Should have trained when I got home to have completed all the set sessions this week. Up early today; so I will do the missing fingerboard session now instead (once the coffee has soaked in!)
In reply to Mutl3y:
Absolutely essential, end of. If you aren't doing it with good form, you aren't doing it right and you are opening the door to injury, i'm surprised nobody else has said the same thing yet!
I was in the gym last year and a couple of guys were on the bench next to me, one said to the other, completely seriously "Shall I go for heavy weight or good form...?" Scary.
> Any views on the importance of form????
Absolutely essential, end of. If you aren't doing it with good form, you aren't doing it right and you are opening the door to injury, i'm surprised nobody else has said the same thing yet!
I was in the gym last year and a couple of guys were on the bench next to me, one said to the other, completely seriously "Shall I go for heavy weight or good form...?" Scary.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
The broadest advice I can give is to incorporate a set of stabilising muscle exercises into your weekly/bi-weekly routine, a quick google for shoulder stability exercises will give you more than you need. Get a set of therabands if you don't have them already, they weigh nothing so you can keep them in your climbing bag all the time, the stabilising exercises are pretty good as a warm up before a session.
> Anyone any tips for beating repetitive minor shoulder injury? Although minor this is the worst so far this week
The broadest advice I can give is to incorporate a set of stabilising muscle exercises into your weekly/bi-weekly routine, a quick google for shoulder stability exercises will give you more than you need. Get a set of therabands if you don't have them already, they weigh nothing so you can keep them in your climbing bag all the time, the stabilising exercises are pretty good as a warm up before a session.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats Dandan! Pretty sure it was an authorised absence :p
Two weeks from me because I just got back from holiday. Mostly spent near Briancon, with short excursion to Ceuse near the end. Weather was a bit dodge, but we mostly worked around it. The main goal that I failed at was the Aiguille Dibona but with consistent afternoon thunderstorms it seemed like a bad idea. Likewise for any of the multipitch at Ailefroide.
Week 430
M - Climbing at Rocher Baron - roadside quartzite crag. 7 routes up to 6c+ (dog - no time for the RP because of approaching storm)
T - Climbing at Grotte des Vaudois - chose a cave because of dodgy forecast. Had a few goes up a ridiculously steep (45' for the first half) 8a. Just a bit of a laugh really, not the start of a project. Just about avoided a soaking.
W - Climbing at really nice, small crag - Falaise des Ecureuils. Ticked most (6/8) of the routes, OS up to 7a. Feeling pretty worked after battling with the 8a on Tuesday.
T - Walk/scramble up Tete des Toillies (3175m) in the Queyras, on Italian border. No view from the top but generally clear day. Got back to the car just as it started hammering down.
F - Rest. Proper rest day/rained off anyway.
S - Climbing at Paroi de la Grotte. Onsighted a 7a+ - steep stamina route. No bad holds or hard moves on it but it just kept coming! Also a 7a 2nd go.
S - Climbing at Rocher Baron after morning rain (finished off that 6c+ and ticked a 7a 2nd go) then drive to Ceuse.
Week 431
M - Ceuse pretty wet. Those attractive grey/blue streaks have to come from somewhere! A few warm-up routes then had a go on Super Mickey (classic 7b). A few puddles in the jugs but mostly dry. 3 attempts all ended at the crux (2 crimps near the top). Felt tired, grumpy, no power. A bit hypoglycaemic, I think.
T - Rest day for me. Belayed Emily + put draws up on a 6a and 6a+. Heavens opened during walk down and we got absolutely soaked.
W - Crag wet again. Ticked Saint George's Picos (7a) and got shut down on a 7a+ nearby. Back to Super Mickey. Still wet, 3 attempts ended in the same place. Ran out of food and water, felt tired and hungry.
T - Best day at Ceuse. Nothing mindblowing but I did tick La Petite Illusion (7a+). Great route, despite the tufa at the bottom being wet. Got the nutrition right and felt tired from climbing rather than hungry.
F - Travel back to Bristol
S - Rest
S - Evening session at Brean. Worked out the moves linking Prisoner and Bullworker. Only one hard move off the sort of crimps I try hard to avoid. Should go soon, then it's just the El Chocco mantel...
I liked Ceuse, and think I'd get on well there if I went back. It's a shame I didn't eat enough for the first three days. Stupid in hindsight, but we just didn't adjust the calorie budget for the hour walk-in/-out (and the baguettes/croissants were smaller than the ones we'd been eating the previous week!) so performance on the first three days was well sub-par. Along with prevailing dampness and low morale due to dodgy weather (seriously, 10 consecutive days of thunderstorms?!) it wasn't going well. Thursday gave a glimpse of what it should be like! Best crag in the world? Maybe, I'll have to go back to be sure
Thanks for the stats Dandan! Pretty sure it was an authorised absence :p
Two weeks from me because I just got back from holiday. Mostly spent near Briancon, with short excursion to Ceuse near the end. Weather was a bit dodge, but we mostly worked around it. The main goal that I failed at was the Aiguille Dibona but with consistent afternoon thunderstorms it seemed like a bad idea. Likewise for any of the multipitch at Ailefroide.
Week 430
M - Climbing at Rocher Baron - roadside quartzite crag. 7 routes up to 6c+ (dog - no time for the RP because of approaching storm)
T - Climbing at Grotte des Vaudois - chose a cave because of dodgy forecast. Had a few goes up a ridiculously steep (45' for the first half) 8a. Just a bit of a laugh really, not the start of a project. Just about avoided a soaking.
W - Climbing at really nice, small crag - Falaise des Ecureuils. Ticked most (6/8) of the routes, OS up to 7a. Feeling pretty worked after battling with the 8a on Tuesday.
T - Walk/scramble up Tete des Toillies (3175m) in the Queyras, on Italian border. No view from the top but generally clear day. Got back to the car just as it started hammering down.
F - Rest. Proper rest day/rained off anyway.
S - Climbing at Paroi de la Grotte. Onsighted a 7a+ - steep stamina route. No bad holds or hard moves on it but it just kept coming! Also a 7a 2nd go.
S - Climbing at Rocher Baron after morning rain (finished off that 6c+ and ticked a 7a 2nd go) then drive to Ceuse.
Week 431
M - Ceuse pretty wet. Those attractive grey/blue streaks have to come from somewhere! A few warm-up routes then had a go on Super Mickey (classic 7b). A few puddles in the jugs but mostly dry. 3 attempts all ended at the crux (2 crimps near the top). Felt tired, grumpy, no power. A bit hypoglycaemic, I think.
T - Rest day for me. Belayed Emily + put draws up on a 6a and 6a+. Heavens opened during walk down and we got absolutely soaked.
W - Crag wet again. Ticked Saint George's Picos (7a) and got shut down on a 7a+ nearby. Back to Super Mickey. Still wet, 3 attempts ended in the same place. Ran out of food and water, felt tired and hungry.
T - Best day at Ceuse. Nothing mindblowing but I did tick La Petite Illusion (7a+). Great route, despite the tufa at the bottom being wet. Got the nutrition right and felt tired from climbing rather than hungry.
F - Travel back to Bristol
S - Rest
S - Evening session at Brean. Worked out the moves linking Prisoner and Bullworker. Only one hard move off the sort of crimps I try hard to avoid. Should go soon, then it's just the El Chocco mantel...
I liked Ceuse, and think I'd get on well there if I went back. It's a shame I didn't eat enough for the first three days. Stupid in hindsight, but we just didn't adjust the calorie budget for the hour walk-in/-out (and the baguettes/croissants were smaller than the ones we'd been eating the previous week!) so performance on the first three days was well sub-par. Along with prevailing dampness and low morale due to dodgy weather (seriously, 10 consecutive days of thunderstorms?!) it wasn't going well. Thursday gave a glimpse of what it should be like! Best crag in the world? Maybe, I'll have to go back to be sure
Assorted goals:
Trad routes at E4
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 4; Clean onsight: 4
Send The Milky Bar Kid (8a) before Ally Smith
Getting there on the progression:
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Strength gains
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.
Sort out the asymmetry (ongoing)
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 4; Clean onsight: 4
Getting there on the progression:
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.
1
In reply to Mutl3y:
It seems surprising that you can do over 100 chin ups and yet can't do one one-arm lock off, but I guess it just goes to show the huge variation between the different energy systems and their relatively loose relationship, I guess there could be someone out there who can do 3 one-arm chin ups but only about 10 normal chin ups, all strength and no stamina, completely the opposite to you!
As mentioned, I think trying to gear your chin up sessions towards high weight/ low reps and eventually single arm will be more beneficial than the huge volume of standard chin ups you are currently doing.
It seems surprising that you can do over 100 chin ups and yet can't do one one-arm lock off, but I guess it just goes to show the huge variation between the different energy systems and their relatively loose relationship, I guess there could be someone out there who can do 3 one-arm chin ups but only about 10 normal chin ups, all strength and no stamina, completely the opposite to you!
As mentioned, I think trying to gear your chin up sessions towards high weight/ low reps and eventually single arm will be more beneficial than the huge volume of standard chin ups you are currently doing.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. At the moment I'm doing 1-2 sessions in the gym and one session of hill sprints for max strength. Not doing anything at the wall as yet - to be honest I have a 'skills deficit' - I have plenty of strength to do the routes I want to do, if I could climb a bit more efficiently. To that end I putting some progression pyramids together, and am hoping to do a bit more outdoor bouldering.
Good week this week, but I've let the trail runs slip a bit. Planning to get the mileage back up this week.
Still experiencing some lower back pain. I'm being cautious but it doesn't really appear to actually prevent me from doing anything. Been doing some additional yoga stretching twice daily. May see a physio if things haven't improved by the end of the week.
Mon
Max strength
- Core warm up.
- 3 sets 4x 8 second hill sprints on 20% incline. 2 minute rest between reps, 5 minutes between sets.
Tue
- Climbing at AW Sheffield. Disappointing performance on some 6a+ routes - which I'm blaming on forgetting my shoes and having to use a loan pair
Wed
Max strength
4 sets of
1x chinup (+10kg)
4x 80kg deadlift. Taking this one easy as back still giving me some problems.
4x 35kg strict press.
4x 40kg overhead squat.
Thu
Grindleford Fell Race. Results not available yet but was probably in the top 50%. Was very slow but had a load left in the tank at the end.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Climbing at Rivelin Edge. Highlights were Altar Crack (VS 4c) and Fringe Benefit (E1 5b) - my first uncontroversial E1
Cheers Dan. At the moment I'm doing 1-2 sessions in the gym and one session of hill sprints for max strength. Not doing anything at the wall as yet - to be honest I have a 'skills deficit' - I have plenty of strength to do the routes I want to do, if I could climb a bit more efficiently. To that end I putting some progression pyramids together, and am hoping to do a bit more outdoor bouldering.
Good week this week, but I've let the trail runs slip a bit. Planning to get the mileage back up this week.
Still experiencing some lower back pain. I'm being cautious but it doesn't really appear to actually prevent me from doing anything. Been doing some additional yoga stretching twice daily. May see a physio if things haven't improved by the end of the week.
Mon
Max strength
- Core warm up.
- 3 sets 4x 8 second hill sprints on 20% incline. 2 minute rest between reps, 5 minutes between sets.
Tue
- Climbing at AW Sheffield. Disappointing performance on some 6a+ routes - which I'm blaming on forgetting my shoes and having to use a loan pair
Wed
Max strength
4 sets of
1x chinup (+10kg)
4x 80kg deadlift. Taking this one easy as back still giving me some problems.
4x 35kg strict press.
4x 40kg overhead squat.
Thu
Grindleford Fell Race. Results not available yet but was probably in the top 50%. Was very slow but had a load left in the tank at the end.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Rest
Sun - Climbing at Rivelin Edge. Highlights were Altar Crack (VS 4c) and Fringe Benefit (E1 5b) - my first uncontroversial E1
In reply to Nick Russell:
> Send The Milky Bar Kid (8a) before Ally Smith
Liking the cheeky deadline you've put on your 8a goal!> Write a training app for the fingerboard.
The ability to save workouts and re-visit them without settng up the app again would be good, as would the ability to log your workouts In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the thread and the encouragement Dandan!
This week's been odd too as my car radiator went pop on Monday so was on a bike till Thurs eve. I work in the community so decided to not run while I was biking everywhere - sadly though I didn't record the rides!
Mon - Inset day so took daughter on her first mountain biking trail at Sherwood Pines. We did the 6 mile blue but she kept getting off up hill so it took AGES! I learned that I MUST get the wet mud off the bikes before trying to lift and hold them steady over my head, it damn near broke me, the bike and the car roof!
Tues - I think about 5/6 miles on my bike, all flippin' hills - where I live is all flippin' hills! Got 1.5 hrs bouldering while daughter was at friends in the eve (YAY!). Also did some pull ups (well - slow lowers...)
Weds - 3 miles on the bike, quite a few pull uppy things, I think I'm sneaking up on the pull up goal...
Thurs - Daughter was due to go to fathers, he didn't confirm till 1hr prior so I missed lead climbing and TRX was booked out at leisure centre - NOT HAPPY! Rescued it by cycling to bouldering but was well off it as I knew I'd be climbing the 3 days after, felt tired and way too hot! Also cycled to neighbouring town for work - about 7 miles round trip of hills.
Fri - 2.5 hrs lead climbing with some top roping. I was pretty pleased with how it went. 1.5 mile run - rubbish as I pelted to beat PB on a hill and strava missed the segment.
Sat - 1hr bouldering, mucking about but also trying some hard stuff.
Sun - Decided to baseline how many laps I could do on higher grades. There's currently a F6a and F6b on one of the auto belays. The F6b took me 2 visits as opposed to 2 attempts to get up and even once done I forgot how to do the first move. The F6a took numerous attempts tp get. I racked up 52!
On the day itself I got the 6a from the start but still too 4-6 failed starts and one fail higher up to get the 6b. I didn't count any part climb, only clean ascents. I managed 22 of the F6b and 30 of the F6a, taking off my height + 2ft each ascent is 20ft so that's just over 1000ft of climbing pretty much around my limit. VERY different from lapping lower grades. Trying to pull out that real 'maximum' press or share on a low hold, lay back etc when tired and soaked felt excrutiating, yet more possible than I would have ever thought - initially I didn't think I'd exceed even 10 laps on the 6b. I have no niggles today - if anything I feel better for it!
I think Sunday made up for my week a bit.
Goals:
F6c at Notts CC on a roped climb.
1 pull up (I think I'm very close!).
100 F6 and above laps on the auto belay - not sure this one is wise....??
Thanks for the thread and the encouragement Dandan!
This week's been odd too as my car radiator went pop on Monday so was on a bike till Thurs eve. I work in the community so decided to not run while I was biking everywhere - sadly though I didn't record the rides!
Mon - Inset day so took daughter on her first mountain biking trail at Sherwood Pines. We did the 6 mile blue but she kept getting off up hill so it took AGES! I learned that I MUST get the wet mud off the bikes before trying to lift and hold them steady over my head, it damn near broke me, the bike and the car roof!
Tues - I think about 5/6 miles on my bike, all flippin' hills - where I live is all flippin' hills! Got 1.5 hrs bouldering while daughter was at friends in the eve (YAY!). Also did some pull ups (well - slow lowers...)
Weds - 3 miles on the bike, quite a few pull uppy things, I think I'm sneaking up on the pull up goal...
Thurs - Daughter was due to go to fathers, he didn't confirm till 1hr prior so I missed lead climbing and TRX was booked out at leisure centre - NOT HAPPY! Rescued it by cycling to bouldering but was well off it as I knew I'd be climbing the 3 days after, felt tired and way too hot! Also cycled to neighbouring town for work - about 7 miles round trip of hills.
Fri - 2.5 hrs lead climbing with some top roping. I was pretty pleased with how it went. 1.5 mile run - rubbish as I pelted to beat PB on a hill and strava missed the segment.
Sat - 1hr bouldering, mucking about but also trying some hard stuff.
Sun - Decided to baseline how many laps I could do on higher grades. There's currently a F6a and F6b on one of the auto belays. The F6b took me 2 visits as opposed to 2 attempts to get up and even once done I forgot how to do the first move. The F6a took numerous attempts tp get. I racked up 52!
On the day itself I got the 6a from the start but still too 4-6 failed starts and one fail higher up to get the 6b. I didn't count any part climb, only clean ascents. I managed 22 of the F6b and 30 of the F6a, taking off my height + 2ft each ascent is 20ft so that's just over 1000ft of climbing pretty much around my limit. VERY different from lapping lower grades. Trying to pull out that real 'maximum' press or share on a low hold, lay back etc when tired and soaked felt excrutiating, yet more possible than I would have ever thought - initially I didn't think I'd exceed even 10 laps on the 6b. I have no niggles today - if anything I feel better for it!
I think Sunday made up for my week a bit.
Goals:
F6c at Notts CC on a roped climb.
1 pull up (I think I'm very close!).
100 F6 and above laps on the auto belay - not sure this one is wise....??
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. It definitely was hell, but I've got the medal and the T-shirt, so it was worth it.
I marked time this week, creaking a bit and resting on my CQ laurels, but still managed 50 miles.
M - nothing at all!
T - 4.1 miles, mostly uphill, to lift ome after work.
W - 9.1 miles coast path flog
T -9.2 miles to lift home after work
F - 8.3 miles from work to the coast and back, making a shape that made me call it Africa Route, off which I once fell off on-lead.
S - 8 miles hills the 4 miles more hills, slower and slower.
S - 10 miles.
Roseland RAT in a couple of months, DNFd at 20 miles last year, 6 hours the year before. Beat that is the target.
Cheers Dan. It definitely was hell, but I've got the medal and the T-shirt, so it was worth it.
I marked time this week, creaking a bit and resting on my CQ laurels, but still managed 50 miles.
M - nothing at all!
T - 4.1 miles, mostly uphill, to lift ome after work.
W - 9.1 miles coast path flog
T -9.2 miles to lift home after work
F - 8.3 miles from work to the coast and back, making a shape that made me call it Africa Route, off which I once fell off on-lead.
S - 8 miles hills the 4 miles more hills, slower and slower.
S - 10 miles.
Roseland RAT in a couple of months, DNFd at 20 miles last year, 6 hours the year before. Beat that is the target.
In reply to Ally Smith:
> Liking the cheeky deadline you've put on your 8a goal!
Haha, I wondered if you'd notice that... You don't have to be too concerned yet.> The ability to save workouts and re-visit them without settng up the app again would be good, as would the ability to log your workouts
I'll start a list of 'feature requests'. This app is a long-term thing really, not really a priority yet, but it's good to get some ideas of what to aim for. The main thing I want to play with is some kind of machine learning so the app can track your progress, figure out what's working and suggest new workouts... It's a big task though, so I expect that will be several iterations along the line.In reply to Nick Russell:
I have an interval trainer app,on my.phone for training and one of the things I woukd find handy for fingerboard stuff is an automatic rest ratio setting - so if I flame out on my 10:3 fingerboard at 77 seconds i just hit a button and it rolls over into an immediate countdown of 77*x seconds rest.
Woukd work for the lattice board style decreasing interval testing too.
I have an interval trainer app,on my.phone for training and one of the things I woukd find handy for fingerboard stuff is an automatic rest ratio setting - so if I flame out on my 10:3 fingerboard at 77 seconds i just hit a button and it rolls over into an immediate countdown of 77*x seconds rest.
Woukd work for the lattice board style decreasing interval testing too.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks to me for doing the stats,
It's been a verrry boring week without any significant payoff in terms of recovery, although i did nothing to cause any further issues, I think I just have to be patient as this is a tendon issue and not a muscle issue, it's going to take a while to repair.
M: nowt
T: nada
W: Had to do something, worked out a non-gripping S&C routine - crunches, press ups, squats, calf raises, theraband shoulder stretches with band wrapped around my hand so no gripping.
T: Zip
F: Zero, physio physically assualted me
S: DIY, finished my boulder shed roof, making sure I didn't mess with my elbows. roof looks awesome, shed is nealry finished!
S: Bit of gardening, nothing major
Based on the speed at which the tendonitis is healing (i.e very slowly) I actually don't think that doing some low intensity climbing would really have much of a negative effect on it, I'll stay off the walls for another week as suggested by the physio but I might try and do some aerocap the following week.
Physio on Friday was agony, she dug into my tendon with a metal spike, how I don't have bruises i'll never know, it did loosen things up nicely though.
I've brought an exercise ball up with me this week so I can try out the core course that a nice FitClubber sent me (i'm sorry I can't remember who!) that should keep me occupied without affecting my elbows, my core is probably weak as hell at the moment so it's a good excuse to beast it while I can't work on other areas.
No point putting my goals up as I can't make progress on any of them!
Thanks to me for doing the stats,
It's been a verrry boring week without any significant payoff in terms of recovery, although i did nothing to cause any further issues, I think I just have to be patient as this is a tendon issue and not a muscle issue, it's going to take a while to repair.
M: nowt
T: nada
W: Had to do something, worked out a non-gripping S&C routine - crunches, press ups, squats, calf raises, theraband shoulder stretches with band wrapped around my hand so no gripping.
T: Zip
F: Zero, physio physically assualted me
S: DIY, finished my boulder shed roof, making sure I didn't mess with my elbows. roof looks awesome, shed is nealry finished!
S: Bit of gardening, nothing major
Based on the speed at which the tendonitis is healing (i.e very slowly) I actually don't think that doing some low intensity climbing would really have much of a negative effect on it, I'll stay off the walls for another week as suggested by the physio but I might try and do some aerocap the following week.
Physio on Friday was agony, she dug into my tendon with a metal spike, how I don't have bruises i'll never know, it did loosen things up nicely though.
I've brought an exercise ball up with me this week so I can try out the core course that a nice FitClubber sent me (i'm sorry I can't remember who!) that should keep me occupied without affecting my elbows, my core is probably weak as hell at the moment so it's a good excuse to beast it while I can't work on other areas.
No point putting my goals up as I can't make progress on any of them!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, hope the elbow is improving. Two races this week....
M: am - run to work 4/5M 29:14
Tu: am - jog to work 16mins + strides
W: pm 800m race @ Watford Open meeting. NOt perfect conditions but not far off, only a light breeze. Warmed up and felt ok, then watched the wife come 3rd in her race and run another PB Soon enough it was my turn, gun went and I thought I got out ok but ended up third from the back (I need to improve this!) then spent the next 200m feeling like I was running up the back of the people in front. Entered the home straight and started to move forward but wasn't decisive enough and when everyone kicked at the bell (around 61/62 sec) I was too far back and on the outside. Got back to the inside and finished strongly in the last 100m, (prob a sign that I hadn't run hard enough) and finished 5th in 2:01.96 - a bit disappointing but solid enough. Still waiting to go sub-2 !! ~6M total.
Th: am - woke up and the outside of my left foot was really painful - couldn't walk! Not good! think it is my peroneal tendon which I've hurt previously. Ice + Ibuprofen. pm - foot feeling better so did a short jog to see how it was and it was easier running than walking 4/5M easy in 30:36
F: pm - as foot was better, stuck to the weeks plan which was a 5K race as training as wasn't going to make Saturday's session. So, nice evening for Marston Forest 5K on gravel paths. Got away ok, with another guy after 1K and after 2K pushed on alone. 3/4th K's ok but then died completely in the final one! 1st in 15:38. The wife won the womens race and we also both won team prizes...... clean up!
Sa: up north, v early start. got out in the evening for 7/8M but very hilly which screwed my already tired quads!
Su: v.tired + sore - 78M in 55:34
Total 42M for the week. Now need to get legs not sore + tired asap!
Thanks Dan, hope the elbow is improving. Two races this week....
M: am - run to work 4/5M 29:14
Tu: am - jog to work 16mins + strides
W: pm 800m race @ Watford Open meeting. NOt perfect conditions but not far off, only a light breeze. Warmed up and felt ok, then watched the wife come 3rd in her race and run another PB Soon enough it was my turn, gun went and I thought I got out ok but ended up third from the back (I need to improve this!) then spent the next 200m feeling like I was running up the back of the people in front. Entered the home straight and started to move forward but wasn't decisive enough and when everyone kicked at the bell (around 61/62 sec) I was too far back and on the outside. Got back to the inside and finished strongly in the last 100m, (prob a sign that I hadn't run hard enough) and finished 5th in 2:01.96 - a bit disappointing but solid enough. Still waiting to go sub-2 !! ~6M total.
Th: am - woke up and the outside of my left foot was really painful - couldn't walk! Not good! think it is my peroneal tendon which I've hurt previously. Ice + Ibuprofen. pm - foot feeling better so did a short jog to see how it was and it was easier running than walking 4/5M easy in 30:36
F: pm - as foot was better, stuck to the weeks plan which was a 5K race as training as wasn't going to make Saturday's session. So, nice evening for Marston Forest 5K on gravel paths. Got away ok, with another guy after 1K and after 2K pushed on alone. 3/4th K's ok but then died completely in the final one! 1st in 15:38. The wife won the womens race and we also both won team prizes...... clean up!
Sa: up north, v early start. got out in the evening for 7/8M but very hilly which screwed my already tired quads!
Su: v.tired + sore - 78M in 55:34
Total 42M for the week. Now need to get legs not sore + tired asap!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Hope the rest doesn't send you too mad.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 2lbs (same)
M - Core and rehab
T - Core
W - 5k run
T - Sport @ Navigation
F - Rest / Crewing for a mate
S - Rest / Crewing for a mate
S - Teaching trad to a mate at Three Cliffs
Monthly - 77%
Yearly - 69%
I think I'd be happy with 70% but last year I only scraped 50% so that'll be a big improvement. It's a nice goal to have, but it's not the be all and end all. Diet is going ok. Well I'm maintaining which is good.
Got out to Navigation on Thursday. Ended up getting on a nice 6c, which I reckon is a bit more achievable than the 7a and will provide a nice stepping stone to the 7a. Also it might be sensible to do at least one 6c before doing a 7a. I got shut down on the crux, which was a balancy/slabby move involving footholds the size of matches and fingertip crimps. I either need to get stronger or lighter for that. I'll aim for lighter I feel. Also I've got a few ideas for different methods to try. My mates beta worked better for him as he's lighter and slightly taller.
Spent Friday night / Saturday morning crewing for a mate who was 'eversting' which is a cycling thing (apparently) in which they try to climb everest on a bike. So that ended up being about 300+ kms and more than 8846m, as the bike computer played up so he did more laps to make sure. It's a 250m climb and he was up and down it in 30 mins regular as clockwork. So I was making sure he was fed, watered and was taking pics for instagram/strava. Didn't get much sleep and did a bit of running at the end of several laps to hand him water. Did some extremely half arsed DIY on Saturday and got an early night. Slept for a solid 12 hours.
Then on Sunday I went climbing with a mate from uni who I climb with from time to time. He doesn't really do trad and he's not been climbing much recently due to him and his wife having their first child. But he's keen to learn trad, so I said I'd teach him to lead. We spent a while going through belays and he's fairly happy with gear. So I sent him up a couple of nice diffs. He was quite specific about getting the belays perfect, so I ended up having a nice snooze while he sorted them out. But they were largely ok. I'd been hoping to get Scavenger done, but time and tide were against me in the end. I did do a HS I'd done 4 years ago. Quite quickly and without too much stress so that was nice. I still got a bit nervous thinking about doing Scavenger. But it was nice to get back to doing stuff at Three Cliffs, it's a nice little crag. It's all coming along nicely generally. Slowly but nicely.
The link to the site and my mates ride is here - http://veloviewer.com/everesting/329707367
Thanks Dan. Hope the rest doesn't send you too mad.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 2lbs (same)
M - Core and rehab
T - Core
W - 5k run
T - Sport @ Navigation
F - Rest / Crewing for a mate
S - Rest / Crewing for a mate
S - Teaching trad to a mate at Three Cliffs
Monthly - 77%
Yearly - 69%
I think I'd be happy with 70% but last year I only scraped 50% so that'll be a big improvement. It's a nice goal to have, but it's not the be all and end all. Diet is going ok. Well I'm maintaining which is good.
Got out to Navigation on Thursday. Ended up getting on a nice 6c, which I reckon is a bit more achievable than the 7a and will provide a nice stepping stone to the 7a. Also it might be sensible to do at least one 6c before doing a 7a. I got shut down on the crux, which was a balancy/slabby move involving footholds the size of matches and fingertip crimps. I either need to get stronger or lighter for that. I'll aim for lighter I feel. Also I've got a few ideas for different methods to try. My mates beta worked better for him as he's lighter and slightly taller.
Spent Friday night / Saturday morning crewing for a mate who was 'eversting' which is a cycling thing (apparently) in which they try to climb everest on a bike. So that ended up being about 300+ kms and more than 8846m, as the bike computer played up so he did more laps to make sure. It's a 250m climb and he was up and down it in 30 mins regular as clockwork. So I was making sure he was fed, watered and was taking pics for instagram/strava. Didn't get much sleep and did a bit of running at the end of several laps to hand him water. Did some extremely half arsed DIY on Saturday and got an early night. Slept for a solid 12 hours.
Then on Sunday I went climbing with a mate from uni who I climb with from time to time. He doesn't really do trad and he's not been climbing much recently due to him and his wife having their first child. But he's keen to learn trad, so I said I'd teach him to lead. We spent a while going through belays and he's fairly happy with gear. So I sent him up a couple of nice diffs. He was quite specific about getting the belays perfect, so I ended up having a nice snooze while he sorted them out. But they were largely ok. I'd been hoping to get Scavenger done, but time and tide were against me in the end. I did do a HS I'd done 4 years ago. Quite quickly and without too much stress so that was nice. I still got a bit nervous thinking about doing Scavenger. But it was nice to get back to doing stuff at Three Cliffs, it's a nice little crag. It's all coming along nicely generally. Slowly but nicely.
The link to the site and my mates ride is here - http://veloviewer.com/everesting/329707367
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks to you and Si dH I've come to the realization that what I was counting as a pull up was nowhere near enough. It was about 2/3rds of a pull up at best. I haven't been going all the way down and not really all the way up. Going to work out how to train "full" pull ups and do them properly rather than banging out dozens of partial ones.
Was only fooling myself.
Cheers chaps
Thanks to you and Si dH I've come to the realization that what I was counting as a pull up was nowhere near enough. It was about 2/3rds of a pull up at best. I haven't been going all the way down and not really all the way up. Going to work out how to train "full" pull ups and do them properly rather than banging out dozens of partial ones.
Was only fooling myself.
Cheers chaps
In reply to Mutl3y:
You've definitely got the right idea, doing solid, proper pull ups means more strength over the full range of the movement instead of just in the easiest middle bit, plus you have to do much fewer reps to get a good workout, I find high rep sets so boring!
Just make sure you don't go down to completely straight arms, always keep a little bit of tension in your elbows and shoulders.
Once you feel like it's time to move on to lock-offs, just go careful as it's an easy way to kill your elbows. It might be a way in the distance yet, but a tip I heard was never lock off in one position for more than 10 seconds as it can be really damaging and in practice is completely useless, it's just a pary trick really.
You've definitely got the right idea, doing solid, proper pull ups means more strength over the full range of the movement instead of just in the easiest middle bit, plus you have to do much fewer reps to get a good workout, I find high rep sets so boring!
Just make sure you don't go down to completely straight arms, always keep a little bit of tension in your elbows and shoulders.
Once you feel like it's time to move on to lock-offs, just go careful as it's an easy way to kill your elbows. It might be a way in the distance yet, but a tip I heard was never lock off in one position for more than 10 seconds as it can be really damaging and in practice is completely useless, it's just a pary trick really.
1
In reply to Dandan:
I might be late to the party in this one, but found this really interesting/motivating: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/
I might be late to the party in this one, but found this really interesting/motivating: http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dandan. Been a good week for me, with a decent mix of trad mileage and hard sports climbing. Quite a few classic HVS climbs done over the last couple of weeks too, Flake Wall and Diagonal this week, and Looning the Tube, and King Bee Crack the week before. Another couple of weeks, and I'll start going for some E1s I think.
2015 Pyramids:
HVS - 15/40
E1 - 0/30
E2 - 0/2
6c/+ - 3/12
7a - 2/6
7a+ 0/2
Anyway, last week:
M - Dinas Mot - Diagonal HVS. Cracking route, good slab climbing.
T - Tryfan - Grooved Arete VD. A romp up the mountain classic, first time I’ve done it.
W - Rest
T - Dinbren - Traction Trauma 7a. I’d had one go at it a month ago, then two quick top ropes to nail the crux tonight, then got it first lead. Another great route, with some nice thin crux moves up some interesting rock. Thrilled to get this one. My second 7a.
F - Rest
S - Moelwyns - Flake Wall HVS. Another brilliant route. Criminally overlooked with only 1 star in the old CC guide. Technical face climb on smallish edges working your way up and across the crag. The good kind of bold too, with spaced but bomber gear.
S - Bus Stop - Decided to open an account on a (very) long term local project, with a couple of top ropes of Beltane 7b/7b+, depending on the guide. I don’t know which one it falls into, but it’s hard! It does feel within the realms of possibility at some point in the future, which is nice. Though I couldn’t work out the top crux. Has anyone done it? Upon arriving at the last bolt, it’s possible to make a hard traverse left, to reach a flake, which gives a massive rockover onto your right foot to stand up, make some more desperate fingery moves, and soon reach the top left arete. It didn’t quite feel that was the right way to go, but I couldn’t see a plausible direct method?
Cheers Dandan. Been a good week for me, with a decent mix of trad mileage and hard sports climbing. Quite a few classic HVS climbs done over the last couple of weeks too, Flake Wall and Diagonal this week, and Looning the Tube, and King Bee Crack the week before. Another couple of weeks, and I'll start going for some E1s I think.
2015 Pyramids:
HVS - 15/40
E1 - 0/30
E2 - 0/2
6c/+ - 3/12
7a - 2/6
7a+ 0/2
Anyway, last week:
M - Dinas Mot - Diagonal HVS. Cracking route, good slab climbing.
T - Tryfan - Grooved Arete VD. A romp up the mountain classic, first time I’ve done it.
W - Rest
T - Dinbren - Traction Trauma 7a. I’d had one go at it a month ago, then two quick top ropes to nail the crux tonight, then got it first lead. Another great route, with some nice thin crux moves up some interesting rock. Thrilled to get this one. My second 7a.
F - Rest
S - Moelwyns - Flake Wall HVS. Another brilliant route. Criminally overlooked with only 1 star in the old CC guide. Technical face climb on smallish edges working your way up and across the crag. The good kind of bold too, with spaced but bomber gear.
S - Bus Stop - Decided to open an account on a (very) long term local project, with a couple of top ropes of Beltane 7b/7b+, depending on the guide. I don’t know which one it falls into, but it’s hard! It does feel within the realms of possibility at some point in the future, which is nice. Though I couldn’t work out the top crux. Has anyone done it? Upon arriving at the last bolt, it’s possible to make a hard traverse left, to reach a flake, which gives a massive rockover onto your right foot to stand up, make some more desperate fingery moves, and soon reach the top left arete. It didn’t quite feel that was the right way to go, but I couldn’t see a plausible direct method?
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Training Diary WC 15/6/15
Enforced rest week (1 of 2 ½).
Monday – Rest and work.
Tuesday – Biblins Cave: Tried a decidedly odd 6C traverse (it’s hard to know where the footholds finish and the ground begins) and got nowhere. Absolutely pooped out trying Peckitt’s Roof (7C), couldn’t do the moves that I could do last week. Sacked it off as generally tired – need to sort this out.
Wednesday – Rest and work.
Thursday – Work and rest.
Friday – More o’ that work, more o’ that rest. Sorted out reason for knackeredness with the doctor - still low iron, back on the 'beans' giving iron tablets it is then.
Saturday – Bought a kitten.
Sunday – Worrrrrrkkkkk!
It’s that mad time of year at work and, after my doctor has realised that the reason that I’m low on energy is because they stopped me taking my iron tablets, I’ve decided to have a good ol’ two and half week break. In that time, I’ll rest up, get back up to ‘full beans’ setting and get all me work out the way before getting back around to generally tearing the crag down (or at least trying to wear it down through my endless waffling!).
Weight = 71.5kg.
Currently living the climbing dream vicariously through you lot - go and do brilliant stuff so that I be psyched for ya, get psyched myself and we can spread the awesomeness!!!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Training Diary WC 15/6/15
Enforced rest week (1 of 2 ½).
Monday – Rest and work.
Tuesday – Biblins Cave: Tried a decidedly odd 6C traverse (it’s hard to know where the footholds finish and the ground begins) and got nowhere. Absolutely pooped out trying Peckitt’s Roof (7C), couldn’t do the moves that I could do last week. Sacked it off as generally tired – need to sort this out.
Wednesday – Rest and work.
Thursday – Work and rest.
Friday – More o’ that work, more o’ that rest. Sorted out reason for knackeredness with the doctor - still low iron, back on the 'beans' giving iron tablets it is then.
Saturday – Bought a kitten.
Sunday – Worrrrrrkkkkk!
It’s that mad time of year at work and, after my doctor has realised that the reason that I’m low on energy is because they stopped me taking my iron tablets, I’ve decided to have a good ol’ two and half week break. In that time, I’ll rest up, get back up to ‘full beans’ setting and get all me work out the way before getting back around to generally tearing the crag down (or at least trying to wear it down through my endless waffling!).
Weight = 71.5kg.
Currently living the climbing dream vicariously through you lot - go and do brilliant stuff so that I be psyched for ya, get psyched myself and we can spread the awesomeness!!!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
3
In reply to Just Tintin:
Yes, very good. I normally keep pretty up to date with Dave MacLeod's blog, but this one passed me by. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, very good. I normally keep pretty up to date with Dave MacLeod's blog, but this one passed me by. Thanks for sharing.
In reply to Creedence:
Go diagonally up right to finish
> Beltane 7b/7b+, depending on the guide. I don’t know which one it falls into, but it’s hard! It does feel within the realms of possibility at some point in the future, which is nice. Though I couldn’t work out the top crux. Has anyone done it? Upon arriving at the last bolt, it’s possible to make a hard traverse left, to reach a flake, which gives a massive rockover onto your right foot to stand up, make some more desperate fingery moves, and soon reach the top left arete. It didn’t quite feel that was the right way to go, but I couldn’t see a plausible direct method?
Go diagonally up right to finish
In reply to Joyce:
Awww!
You'll need the 2.5 weeks rest to get over what a kitten can do to your sleep patterns!
> Saturday – Bought a kitten.
Awww!
You'll need the 2.5 weeks rest to get over what a kitten can do to your sleep patterns!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing Fitclub again Dan! Great that you´ve managed the rest and it sounds like a good plan to work your core for now. Have you already started with it?
Roof routes came along fine, did a 6a+ and 6b and worked the moves of a 7a. Also forgot to answer your question in last week’s thread about if I’m having a weight goal. I had one for the summer, to be somewhere between 68 and 70 kilo, and last week I came in at 69.3, so perfectly in the middle (the worst thing will be to maintain it I guess).
Weight: 69.3kg
M: climbing indoors, focussing on technique up to 5b, which got me frustrated, because it went bad, so I climbed the 6a+ in the roof to make a good day out of it.
T: climbing indoors, routes up to 6a+ and the 6b in the roof
W: climbing indoors, routes up to 6b+ and a try on a 7a
T: climbing indoors, focussing on technique up to 5c+, went way better than monday
F: rest
S: climbing indoors, routes up to 6a and a try on a 6c which I got until ¾
S: climbing indoors, routes up to 5c, tried the 6c again, got stuck at the same point as previous day. Also worked the moves of a 7a in the roof and bouldered up to 6B
Thanks for doing Fitclub again Dan! Great that you´ve managed the rest and it sounds like a good plan to work your core for now. Have you already started with it?
Roof routes came along fine, did a 6a+ and 6b and worked the moves of a 7a. Also forgot to answer your question in last week’s thread about if I’m having a weight goal. I had one for the summer, to be somewhere between 68 and 70 kilo, and last week I came in at 69.3, so perfectly in the middle (the worst thing will be to maintain it I guess).
Weight: 69.3kg
M: climbing indoors, focussing on technique up to 5b, which got me frustrated, because it went bad, so I climbed the 6a+ in the roof to make a good day out of it.
T: climbing indoors, routes up to 6a+ and the 6b in the roof
W: climbing indoors, routes up to 6b+ and a try on a 7a
T: climbing indoors, focussing on technique up to 5c+, went way better than monday
F: rest
S: climbing indoors, routes up to 6a and a try on a 6c which I got until ¾
S: climbing indoors, routes up to 5c, tried the 6c again, got stuck at the same point as previous day. Also worked the moves of a 7a in the roof and bouldered up to 6B
In reply to Mutl3y:
Sorry for the slow reply: yes, I was. If you can do 80+ pullups in a session with added weight then I feel you must be strong enough to move on to one arm lockoffs. They are more directly relevant to true climbing/bouldering too. Go easy to start with, as Dan said they can be bad for elbows so do short durations and decent rests. Varying the angle (not all at 90 degs) also helps in my experience.
If you can't hold it on one arm at all to start with, try giving yourself minimal assistance with the other hand, eg just palming with it for balance or just taking a bit of weight with it on a poor pocket.
Sorry for the slow reply: yes, I was. If you can do 80+ pullups in a session with added weight then I feel you must be strong enough to move on to one arm lockoffs. They are more directly relevant to true climbing/bouldering too. Go easy to start with, as Dan said they can be bad for elbows so do short durations and decent rests. Varying the angle (not all at 90 degs) also helps in my experience.
If you can't hold it on one arm at all to start with, try giving yourself minimal assistance with the other hand, eg just palming with it for balance or just taking a bit of weight with it on a poor pocket.
Post edited at 20:16
2
In reply to Si dH:
Thanks Si and to Dandan. I've really appreciated you two chipping in on this. I've taken a look at pull-up form and come to the conclusion that I really have to be able to do them perfectly before moving on to one arm lock offs.
Talking to a gym going mate he says he sees it all the time - people banging out 30 reps where there must be all of 6 inches of travel. I doubt I was ever that bad but.....
Thanks again for your intervention. The Boulder problems will thank me I'm sure - specially piss which is basically lock off central!
Thanks Si and to Dandan. I've really appreciated you two chipping in on this. I've taken a look at pull-up form and come to the conclusion that I really have to be able to do them perfectly before moving on to one arm lock offs.
Talking to a gym going mate he says he sees it all the time - people banging out 30 reps where there must be all of 6 inches of travel. I doubt I was ever that bad but.....
Thanks again for your intervention. The Boulder problems will thank me I'm sure - specially piss which is basically lock off central!
In reply to 0.5viking:
I have started it, yes. Despite it containing all sorts of movements and exercises that i've never done before, I didn't get any DOMS from it at all so i'm going to jump ahead a couple of weeks on the plan to where there are more exercises and more reps. I'd like to say it's because I already have such an awesome core but I think it's more that climbers in general will tend to have a better core than the average guy on the street, you lot would probably all cruise through it too.
I have started it, yes. Despite it containing all sorts of movements and exercises that i've never done before, I didn't get any DOMS from it at all so i'm going to jump ahead a couple of weeks on the plan to where there are more exercises and more reps. I'd like to say it's because I already have such an awesome core but I think it's more that climbers in general will tend to have a better core than the average guy on the street, you lot would probably all cruise through it too.
In reply to Mutl3y:
Something else to think about, from the point of view of climbing, I don't think you can ever really pull 'up' too much.
A good form pull up might be defined as going from (nearly) straight arms to getting your chin above the bar and that's great for bashing out reps to increase strength, but if you can get your chin even higher than the bar, then that's a bonus if you ask me.
If you can raise your body that little bit higher, you give yourself more reach or more time to deadpoint the next hold or even - at it's extreme - will let you do a muscle-up, getting your elbows up higher than your wrists and turning the pull up into a press up, i've seen a couple of boulders where this is the only way to get over the mantle for example.
I used to do an exercise called power pull ups, basically a set of x reps done relatively fast where you pull up explosively, as hard and fast as possible and try to propel yourself higher than a normal chin up. One upshot of these is that you need to control your descent and due to the dynamic nature of the first movement, you'll be heading back down with more momentum so you have to work harder to control it. Obviously only do this when really warm, but I always enjoyed it and I think it is a good climbing specific exercise, maybe something to add in?
Something else to think about, from the point of view of climbing, I don't think you can ever really pull 'up' too much.
A good form pull up might be defined as going from (nearly) straight arms to getting your chin above the bar and that's great for bashing out reps to increase strength, but if you can get your chin even higher than the bar, then that's a bonus if you ask me.
If you can raise your body that little bit higher, you give yourself more reach or more time to deadpoint the next hold or even - at it's extreme - will let you do a muscle-up, getting your elbows up higher than your wrists and turning the pull up into a press up, i've seen a couple of boulders where this is the only way to get over the mantle for example.
I used to do an exercise called power pull ups, basically a set of x reps done relatively fast where you pull up explosively, as hard and fast as possible and try to propel yourself higher than a normal chin up. One upshot of these is that you need to control your descent and due to the dynamic nature of the first movement, you'll be heading back down with more momentum so you have to work harder to control it. Obviously only do this when really warm, but I always enjoyed it and I think it is a good climbing specific exercise, maybe something to add in?
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Lurgy all week! I didn’t rest, which in hindsight was bad, but was pleased that I achieved okay results ill. The most impressive thing is that I made a mature sensible decision outside on Sunday and cut short the session as 6a had me hyperventilating and had taken a fist sized chunk of rock direct on the helmet while belaying.
M – lurgy rest
T – lurgy rest
W - lurgy but stayed on at Brookes after coaching to do 5 route pyramid. Onsighted the 6b+ that used to be a 7c+. New grade definitely fair – just one horrific clip near the top that is best skipped and could result in a fun fall.
T –lurgy rest
F – lurgy. 40 x v0-2 circuit at Climbing Unit and a couple of V5-7s.
S – lurgy. Routes to 6b+ and boulder to V4 Wirksworth.
S – lurgy. 3 sport routes at Masson Lees up to 6b.
Thanks Dan. Lurgy all week! I didn’t rest, which in hindsight was bad, but was pleased that I achieved okay results ill. The most impressive thing is that I made a mature sensible decision outside on Sunday and cut short the session as 6a had me hyperventilating and had taken a fist sized chunk of rock direct on the helmet while belaying.
M – lurgy rest
T – lurgy rest
W - lurgy but stayed on at Brookes after coaching to do 5 route pyramid. Onsighted the 6b+ that used to be a 7c+. New grade definitely fair – just one horrific clip near the top that is best skipped and could result in a fun fall.
T –lurgy rest
F – lurgy. 40 x v0-2 circuit at Climbing Unit and a couple of V5-7s.
S – lurgy. Routes to 6b+ and boulder to V4 Wirksworth.
S – lurgy. 3 sport routes at Masson Lees up to 6b.
In reply to Dandan:
Nice one dandan, yeah that's what I tried yesterday. Trying to get up as high as poss from the static pull up position using the jugs on the bm1000. And lowering slow and controlled. The number of reps took a considerable hit (to put it mildly!) but the quality was vastly superior. In a fraction of the time I'm pretty sure I got a better workout.
I'll see how it goes but if I find I can do much more than 3x10 excellent pull ups then I'll start adding weight again.
Sweet. Still massively psyched.
Nice one dandan, yeah that's what I tried yesterday. Trying to get up as high as poss from the static pull up position using the jugs on the bm1000. And lowering slow and controlled. The number of reps took a considerable hit (to put it mildly!) but the quality was vastly superior. In a fraction of the time I'm pretty sure I got a better workout.
I'll see how it goes but if I find I can do much more than 3x10 excellent pull ups then I'll start adding weight again.
Sweet. Still massively psyched.
1
In reply to Mutl3y:
Maybe rather than adding weight you could add variation to the movement, such as trying typewriters or frenchies.
> I'll see how it goes but if I find I can do much more than 3x10 excellent pull ups then I'll start adding weight again.
Maybe rather than adding weight you could add variation to the movement, such as trying typewriters or frenchies.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Good idea. Think I'm a ways off adding either at the mo though.....probably makes me sound like a wimp but proper pull ups are tough!
Good idea. Think I'm a ways off adding either at the mo though.....probably makes me sound like a wimp but proper pull ups are tough!
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Apologies for missing last week's fit club. Too much work and nothing to really report. Think i just did an auto belay session that week.
Just coming to the end of 12 straight days in work and looking forward to a nice weekend off.
Last week i managed to squeeze an evening's trad and a routes session into a 7 day working 65 hr week.
Trad was brilliant and i seem to have the bug back for that. As the likelihood of full days out on sport are still looking very thin on the ground i may be getting out to the quarries more often.
Just the three routes done starting with seconding an E1. Led an E1, which was a lovely route. Finger locks, manteling and all sorts of stuff i've not done for ages. Got a bit carried away with the climbing and wasn't too aware of my position until i looked down and clocked i was on for a nice drop onto a ledge. Cue all loss of composure while i scrabbled around trying to get some gear in, rather than making one more move to a nice restful position.
Feeling full of confidence my partner suggested i lob myself at an E2 described as steep, un-relenting and building to a fine crescendo. What could go wrong? Well i made it all the way to the last move but just couldn't figure it out and sat on the gear. My partner zipped up on my gear ( i had placed a lot of gear this time ) and despatched it with ease.
Good session indoors. Onsighted up to 6c+ and just missed a 7a onsight due to going for a foothold instead of a handhold.
Had a session setting as well and the way i set it definitely counts as work. I guess i do climb every day either doing safety checks, setting etc. but it's not training.
Don't think i'll have much to report this Sunday.
Cheers Dan. Apologies for missing last week's fit club. Too much work and nothing to really report. Think i just did an auto belay session that week.
Just coming to the end of 12 straight days in work and looking forward to a nice weekend off.
Last week i managed to squeeze an evening's trad and a routes session into a 7 day working 65 hr week.
Trad was brilliant and i seem to have the bug back for that. As the likelihood of full days out on sport are still looking very thin on the ground i may be getting out to the quarries more often.
Just the three routes done starting with seconding an E1. Led an E1, which was a lovely route. Finger locks, manteling and all sorts of stuff i've not done for ages. Got a bit carried away with the climbing and wasn't too aware of my position until i looked down and clocked i was on for a nice drop onto a ledge. Cue all loss of composure while i scrabbled around trying to get some gear in, rather than making one more move to a nice restful position.
Feeling full of confidence my partner suggested i lob myself at an E2 described as steep, un-relenting and building to a fine crescendo. What could go wrong? Well i made it all the way to the last move but just couldn't figure it out and sat on the gear. My partner zipped up on my gear ( i had placed a lot of gear this time ) and despatched it with ease.
Good session indoors. Onsighted up to 6c+ and just missed a 7a onsight due to going for a foothold instead of a handhold.
Had a session setting as well and the way i set it definitely counts as work. I guess i do climb every day either doing safety checks, setting etc. but it's not training.
Don't think i'll have much to report this Sunday.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Sounds good that you´re stronger than supposed to be at the beginning of the program. Hope it will help your climbing when you get back to it.
Sounds good that you´re stronger than supposed to be at the beginning of the program. Hope it will help your climbing when you get back to it.
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