/ DESTINATION GUIDE: Dartmoor

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UKC Articles - on 22 Dec 2016
Mark Bullock on a lonely evening solo of Lynx VS, Great Links Tor, 3 kbWhen people think of UK granite climbing, Dartmoor is quickly forgotten behind the famous Cornish sea cliffs or the paradise isle of Lundy. It's frequently only visited by climbers as a quick stopover on the way to or from their holiday in Kernow. But there's a lot more to Dartmoor than just The Dewerstone and Suspension Flake, says James Clapham.

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SenzuBean - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed that article! Would love to go back and do more there
Duncan Campbell - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:
Really looking forward to getting my hands on a guide so I don't get lost in Bovey Woods again!! Any chance the Quay will have stock after the book launch later tonight? I'm heading home tomorrow...
Plungeman - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

So this will be the guide book you've been working on? The south-west keeps looking better as an(other) option for a few weeks away from the hustle and bustle of Aberdream...

Andy
alastairmac - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

What's happened to Vixen Tor? When I spent some time down there it was a quality little crag, which suffered from an unreasonable owner that prompted a long running dispute over access. I hope that it's still being used for climbing.
The Ex-Engineer - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Awesome article James! Well done on making the effort to really promote the new guide.

This sort of thing was unfortunately a bit lacking in the build up to the new BMC Lancashire guide.

PS If any still wants a copy of Nick White's classic current guide for posterity I've acquired another spare copy in hardly used condition.
James Mann - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to alastairmac:

Vixen Tor is still on the banned list. The access situation is difficult and all attempts at dialogue with the landowner have failed. It is hoped that it may be possible to reopen discussion and perhaps reach some kind of agreement. Can we try and keep public discussion about this situation polite and constructive. This is an open forum and we don't know who may be reading. Insulting comments have the potential to harm access further, making it harder to reopen dialogue.

James
Owen W-G - on 22 Dec 2016
Rest/rainy day activities, don't forget the awesome World of Marbles in Bovey.

I never visit Dartmoor without stopping in.
alasdair19 on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good work James see you in Scotland!
alastairmac - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to James Mann:

Thanks for the update James. And I take your point about the public nature of this forum. But calling the landowner "unreasonable" is hardly an insulting comment. I just had a quick look on line at the pretty damning reports covering this access issue and I think that counts as a fairly polite description. Anyway, I wish you good luck with any further discussion.
John Alcock - on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to alastairmac:

Rippled Wall 6b, that'll upset a few people- particularly the shorties
Steve Woollard on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent write-up, but you forgot to mention how good the weather is down here!
puppythedog on 22 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'I really looking forwards to getting my copy. Recent CC guides have been fab.
alice fuller - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

We will be stocking the Dartmoor guide at The Barn Climbing Centre .We should have them in from the first week of January 2017
James Mann - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Lots of fun last night at the guidebook launch. Great to see so many members of the south west climbing community together sharing their great enthusiasm for our varied and unique area. Guide looks fantastic! We have copies of the guide for sale at the next bmc south west area meeting which will take place at 6pm at the Quay Climbing Centre in Exeter on the 14th of January. Come along, grab your copy and get involved in your local area!

James Mann (bmc area chair)
Dale Turrell on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to John Alcock:

Hasn't Rippled Wall always been V4 though?

Anyway, I can't wait to check out the new guide. Good work!
John Alcock - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really looking forward to the guide. Should keep me going into old age. Thanks to all involved.
petegunn on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Is the superb Moorland Rambler still open in Exeter?
Tom Last - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to James Mann:


> James Mann (bmc area chair)

When did that happen then? Nice one mate.
Mark Kemball - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to petegunn:
> Is the superb Moorland Rambler still open in Exeter?

Sadly, no, it closed a couple of years ago.
Post edited at 18:04
Sean Kelly - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to James Mann:
I somehow missed you last night James, but I enjoyed the evening. I gather that Don was pretty relieved when he picked up the guides from the printers or else the evening would have been pretty flat.
My favourite bit in the book so far are the first ascentionists of Verdigris Cleft on Saddle Tor (an ambition of mine for a while). a certain G. Rim and S. Truggle
The article is quite timely but unfortunately the weather is not not.
n.b. The climber on the inside front cover of the guide at Bone Hill is Bruce Kirby
Post edited at 19:58
Brettthomson on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Hi James,
Guidebook looks great! Im glad it got published without issue. Shame I wont see you on the Alpha anymore but I wish you all the best with the book and future adventures!!
Brett
Alpha NDSV
Mark Kemball - on 23 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Yes, the launch was fun and the guide loks great, HOWEVER, I really must take issue with the author's contention in the introduction that you cannot get a proper cream tea in West Cornwall. As every gourmand knows, the jam goes on before the cream (whatever philistines like Iain Peters might say).
D Berry on 24 Dec 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:

My lovely wife is a Devonshire lass and I have had extensive explanations on how the cream is the butter so obviously goes on first, but my biggest ( and most amusing) SW food faux pas came in Barton asking for a Cornish Pasty at the bakery. They absolutely do not sell Cornish pasties as they are not in Cornwall. Needless to say I have enjoyed many a fine pasty from there since and absorbed my lesson!
Mark Kemball - on 24 Dec 2016
In reply to D Berry:

What those Devonshire folks don't appreciate, is that if you put the cream on top, you can fit far more cream onto your scone than with jam on top.
pete osullivan - on 25 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Well done James and everyone concerned the guidebook is superb. I like the format.
Airtime! - on 26 Dec 2016
In reply to pete osullivan:

Thanks for your feedback Pete and everyone else. Hopefully the guide does Dartmoor justice.

Nice to see you spotted that Sean...

Mark, you may be able to put more of that inferior Cornish clotted cream on top of jam but quality Devonshire clotted cream should be piled high on the scone(s) - a Devonian should never have only one - before topping with strawberry jam. Any other attempt at a cream tea is an amateurish impersonation.

A huge thank you to everyone who made it to Thursday's launch. It was great to see you all.

James.
alice fuller - on 26 Dec 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

A wicked guide, you wordsmith you. Captures Dartmoor with superb pics, captures the climbing radar.
BRowe - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Burn the heretic!
Mark Kemball - on 08 Jan 2017
In reply to BRowe:

Just 'cos you live the wrong side of the Tamar...
chrisweight - on 11 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

Just picked up the guidebook - lovely job! Well presented, clean and clear - as an adopted Janner, it's great to see so much of the 'moor being developed and talked about - looking forward to picking my way through the Woods to find some new challenges!

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