UKC

Looking to climb my first 6000+ peak with a mate. Any destination/continent may work, we won't have more than 2 weeks off work though which I understand will be the main limiting factor.

I've alpine climbed before, done things like Matterhorn, Eiger Mittelegi etc as well as rock-climbed for a number of years. The highest I've been was 5500m on a trek in Nepal. My mate has more limited alpine experience, probably just 1 guided trip in the past, but he's run 3:10 marathon so cardio-wise he's superb. In short, we're looking for a "trekking peak" of some sort, not a technical climb at altitude. We'll do it with a guide, either the 2 of us or part of a larger group.

Aconcagua would be an obvious choice but I'm not sure if 2 weeks is enough, door-to-door round trip from the UK? I know there are a number of more accessible 6000m peaks in places like Bolivia, but I'm not sure if January is the right time of year to go?
In Nepal, I don't think the season starts until April?

We can maybe move dates around a bit, but in any case, the 2 weeks off work will always be the limitation we'll have to stick to..

Any tips will be appreciated.

In reply to alps_p:

According to The Andes guidebook Jan and Feb are Colombia/Venezuela/maybe Ecuador and Argentina/Chile rather than points in between

In reply to alps_p:

Don't know South America that well but that's certainly your best bet. You're going to need something with quick access as you say.

Everything in Asia is going to be a full winter ascent during Jan/Feb so forget about there.

In reply to alps_p:

Plus I'd be looking at something closer to 6000m than 7000m personally. Two weeks isn't really enough time for the latter. You'd probably struggle to get close to 7000m in a single hit without some proper acclimatisation first. You'd likely need to the drop back down to BC after initial acclimatisation to recover before trying for the summit. You'd likely run out of days.

In reply to alps_p:

thanks all for answers. So it's 6000 rather than 7000 meters, somewhere in South America at that time of year.
Any particular peaks you recommend I should check out?

In reply to alps_p:

My girlfriend and I climbed Huayna Potosi in Bolivia in June 2016. The peak sits at 6,088m and the ascent starts from 4,700m. We'd done a lot of munro bagging beforehand but nothing Alpine and we only really struggled with the altitude. So it might not be ambitious enough for you guys, the only hard day was the summit day where you have an alpine start and then get straight onto the glacier. There's only one section that is a bit scrambly and just requires a walking axe. On the way back you just abseil down.

On the plus side it's only a few hours away from La Paz, which is a relatively easy city to get to and helps with acclimatisation as it sits at 3,640m itself.

We went up with a guide and the details are on this site - http://www.climbingsouthamerica.com/country/bolivia/activity/climbing-and-m... That page suggests that January might be out of season but it could be worth contacting them.

In reply to alps_p:

Chimborazo in Ecuador or Sajama in Bolivia are probabably your best options for a 6000m + trekking peak in south america, that time of year.

Or, have a look at the volcanoes around Arequippa in Peru...Chachani is 6000m+ and can be climbed in a couple of days if you're acclimitised.

In reply to alps_p:
Around Arequipa is good now.

February is good for Ojos and Puna de Atacama (less windy than in the spring, apparently).

Flying to S America eats into your time though, so 2 weeks is tight for 6000m unless you're a good acclimatiser. If you're mate can run a 3:10 marathon he might not be!*

(*Sorry, I'm being flippant but I have lots of anecdotal evidence of runners performing poorly at altitude).

In reply to alps_p:

I don't think if your travel time is included this is a sensible idea as you won't have good aclimatisation. Even if you did make it to 6000m you will feel super terible. If set on the idea there are drugs that can make you aclimatise faster by making you urinate more. Or if you have lots of money you could use a tent that simulates high altitude beforehand at home.

In reply to kipman725:

I've heard of people doing Huayna Potosi in fairly short amounts of time; but apparently it's do-able like that due to the fact you can fly into La Paz and spend first night already at 3700m i.e. start acclimatising from day 1. Is that sort of thing not an option in either Ojos or Punta de Atacama areas?

In reply to kipman725:

6000m is totally achievable in two weeks (I've done it - although I wasn't that precious about the summit as it was just acclimatisation). How many people spend two weeks climbing Stok Kangri for example! It just doesn't allow much flexibility. If the weather is bad in the second week then there may be no summit. It's probably going to need a time poor approach to maximise efficiency (eg hiring vehicles instead of waiting for buses). If it was me then I'd probably want to do something not particularly technical that would allow flexibility with camping spots depending how my body was feeling. I know personally my body can go straight to 6000m - I'd just factor in some extra bivis and probably take a tent as a consequence, given there's greater likelihood of catching some bad weather on the mountain. Not having been to that altitude before is a disadvantage as there's no certainty how the body will cope. Ie might not be possible to do it in one hit, but also not enough time to go down, rest, and come back up in a few days. Fast marathon times don't necessary count for much in this respect. I'd say if the summit if everything then there may be disappoint. If it's about the broader experiences (visiting new places, cultures etc) then go for it. Failing at a 6000m peak in South America might potentially be a more enriching experience than an umpteenth trip to Chamonix for example. There again me personally I like to have more time than I think I'll ideally need.

In reply to Starky:

It's the wrong time of year for Bolivia, our winter is wet season there.

In reply to alps_p:
Mercedario in Argentine? There is not a lot of other places which is in season in January unless you want hardcore conditions.

In reply to alps_p:

The Atacama in the north of Chile is a good bet. Fly into Calama and stay in or around San Pedro. There are dozens of non-technical peaks to climb around there, usually between 5000-6000m. Its an incredible place not just for the trekking opportunities but the landscape in general is amazing! San Pedro is at 2500m itself and is a good base to head out to places. You should be able to get a few summits done in your time there, lots take only 1-3 days.

In reply to a_coupland:

great tip, thanks. Any particular peaks in the Atacama region you would suggest?

In reply to alps_p:

Cerro Toco is a good one to start at 5604m and easily done in a day. The volcanoes licancabur and sairecabur are around 6000m. There is also Lascar volcano but I think that is still active, so obviously depends on if its erupting or not if you can climb it!! Llullaillaco volcano and ojos del salado are higher, pushing 7000m - not sure on what those climbs are like.

Plenty to do in between and to help acclimatise as everything is around 3000m+ there. Salt lakes and flamingos, the ALMA observatory, hot springs and geysers, all sorts!

In reply to alps_p:

February and March are still a bit chilly in the Himalaya, but you can climb and avalanches are far less likely.