In reply to TobyA:
Yes, the author is American so that makes sense, I guess. What I meant was that it is not common among climbers to use YDS grades at all here, unless perhaps for routes in America. The French system is taking over though, usually most routes 7a and above, all above 8b.
Still awesome achievement there. Agree on the name, though; not so epic for possibly the hardest crack climb in the world..