UKC

Hi everyone, 

Planning to do the Arete de Cosmique in March and wanted to ask about approach to Aiguille du Midi without the cable car. I have taken the cable car from Chamonix to Aiguille du Midi, but this time I would like to hike up. I have found a hiking route from Chamonix to Plan de L’Aiguille (approximately 2 1/2 hours), but I can't find any route to connect Plan de L’Aiguille- Aiguille du Midi without the cable car.  My thinking is that in addition to enjoy the walk, it would also help with better acclimatisation. Any ideas from people who have done it or suggestions? 

Thanks

It’s getting way steeper fra Aig du Plan!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/aiguille_du_midi-1985/frendo_spur-...
 

I’ve walked up to the Midi via the Requiem hut and the Mer de Glace/ Geant Glacier. That was in summer conditions, not sure how feasible that would be in March…

How are you on skis?

Buddy, get the cable car and save yourself a world of pain 👍

Just in case the OP is peering at a map: I'm pretty sure you'll have typed "Requin hut" before autocorrect got involved! 

I think you might be right. Just trying to gauge peoples' opinions, but nobody likes to be in pain . 

Cheers

Good going down, but never tried ski touring, so that would not be an option unfortunately.

The bigger question is why? If you're asking a question like this, whilst saying you want to acclimatise?

My idea was instead of acclimatising to a nearby mountain, do it there so we also have the experience of hiking up rather than using the cable car. Maybe a silly idea from the beginning. 

But what are you acclimatising for? 

The arete. Do you think acclimatization is not needed? I know it is a short climb, but just to play it safe. 

You realise in March getting around to the start could be a bit of a slog? Happy descending the ridge solo too? 

Your initial idea is no good: you can't 'hike up' from the Plan to the Midi, (other than by making your way all the way up the Mer de Glace, as has been mentioned.)

So yes: find another place for your acclimatization. But also note that, if you are doing this in March, you should plan for full Winter conditions.

Thanks for that. Yes, we are fully aware of the conditions.

Most of the concerns that have been raised are valid concerns about the upper route, as it is a long way around and parts of it might not be feasible in winter conditions.

I would also comment that the lower part of the hike is a tedious slog. Admittedly I haven't ascended that way, but I have hiked down that way after missing the last cable car from the mid-station. That part is completely doable - but I don't think I would choose to start an otherwise fun day out that way when there are other options!

Additionally, to acclimitise properly, you want to spend several days at it. Walking up from the valley and doing the route in one day, or even over two days, won't acclimitise you, it will just mean that you'll be less fresh when you get on the route.

Finally, acclimitising on other mountains means more climbing! Unless you're really pushed for time, what's not to like?

Not the cheapest approach by any means, but one approach to acclimatise for Cosmique Ridge is the midi. Go up the early-early midi and have a day's walk about down the ridge, sit in the col and admire the view  and go back down again in last telepherique to sleep in valley. Don't try to discretely snooze in the Midi station, some "helpful" tourist will see you asleep and assume you've been overcome by the enormous altitude and rush off to raise the alarm as a medical emergency (don't ask! take my word that's not a conducive scenario to a quiet snooze).

Advise against Tacul ordinary  route in those snow conditions unless you really know your stuff due to serac/avalanche risk on the shoulder threatening a big chunk of the ordinary route. Not that summer is 100% safe either.

The col is ~3,500m and the highest point of Cosmique is the Aig. midi station itself at ~3,800m so the numbers make sense.

Echoing comments above about be prepared for Winter conditions 

Thanks for the advice, there has been some very useful suggestions.

People with the full skill set would ignore the arete, as you really need to ski to the start in march. Then you'd be saddled with carrying skis along the route, plus the cost of the phrique. It's a 'winter' play ground, ski down from cosmiques, ice route on tacul, then ski the valley out. Something to aspire too, but I'm sorry to say at present your plan has several flaws. 

The emphasis on winter isn't without reason, it's a serious place even so close to cable car. 

The fact that this is an actual possibility suggests a slight flaw in your plan......

Slogging up to the Midi, even if it were possible, would result in more tiredness or exhaustion than acclimatization.  The cable car is ideal for acclimatization, as it allows you to get to altitude quickly without tiring yourself out.

To hike from Chamonix to 3,900m you would need to be already acclimatized!

A slightly subsidiary question, but what would be the easiest way of getting from the Plan de l'Aiguille to the Midi in winter if you had to, short of going all the way around the south? I guess in summer it'd be Mallory-Porter (AD+ 3) but I imagine the avalanche risk would be severe. 

Back in 1983, me and a mate wanted to do the Midi-Plan within a week of arriving in Chamonix.

Hiked up to Montenvers, bivvied.

Hiked up to Requin, bivvied in a cave. 

Hiked up to Col du Geant, (sketchy, - blood was spilled), pitched a tent below Aig. Marbrees. Tent was demolished in a storm, retreated next morning to Rifugio Torino. Slept in a bed.

Hiked across to Midi, up the arête. Glorious. Slept in the bogs, along with 50 others, most of whom were vomiting, as they had arrived by teleriphique.

Did Midi-Plan Traverse, even gloriouser. Midi-Plan Traverse (AD)

Descended to Requin, straight on to Montervers. Bivvied.

Walked down to Chamonix.

6 nights, only one (regrettably) in a hut, and no teleriphiques.