UKC

Keen to try and push myself technically on some safer e3/4 trad routes in Devon (maybe Cornwall too) but because it is near my technical limit I’m not interested in bold routes - any ideas?

Interrogation (E3 6a)

In the south devon area, these are safe and worth looking at: 

Burning Bridges (E3 5c) - Bolts protect the crux groove. Somewhat bold lower down but closer to 4c there

Peg's Progress (E3 5c)

The Lumpy Universe (E2 5c) & Shooting Stars (E3 5c)

Proper Charlie (E3 6a) - towards top end of the E3 grade imo 

And The Spy (E3 5c) - towards lower end of E3 imo 

At E4, Black Death (E4 6a) & Mortality Crisis (E4 6a) look great - ive not led though, just belayed others. 

Stuff in the Great Cave at Berry Head? You're never gonna hit the deck.

Isn’t Pegs Progress a bit go-ey and run out at the top?

I understand it was the scene of a non-fatal deck out from the top for one unlucky leader many years ago.

If slabs with very thin cracks and gear is your thing…

Jamaican Dub at Blackchurch Rock? 

If North Cornwall not too far from the Devon border is in…

More than a Match at Oldwalls Point?

Diamond Smiles, Crooked Mile and Break on Through at Lower Sharpnose?

Lots of options at Sharpnose. Cornwall, but pretty much in Devon…

Dreadnought at Berry Head is reasonable.

If you can get to the Cornish granite, Kafoozalem and the clutch of single pitch E3s next to it at Bosigran are fairly safe. Dream Liberator is reasonable. 

Also a few good E3s and E4s on the Lizard - Amnesty, International, The Cull.

Tetrapod (E3 6a)? 

Cat Burglar (E4 6a) - oh, hang on.... 

I recall Zuma (E4 6a) as being fairly well protected - despite following an arête rather than any sort of crack system - but hard at the top. Logbook comments describe the finish as bold and mention the loss of a hold, so you might want a more recent opinion on that one. 

There's Supercalorific at Churston

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/churston_quarries-364/supercalorif...

which is now bolted, but was formerly E3 5c, but I believe is 6a+ now, but still an entertaining well protected climb. Another thumbs up for Burning Bridges, just mega, but watch out for the loose finish.

Another excellent E3 is Flashdance at Telegraph Hole and pegs at the hard moves, where it matters, but not that much else in terms of good gear.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/telegraph_hole-284/flashdance-3417...

Second Dave's suggestion of Interrogation. Rough Diamond around the corner has good gear on but is a bit goey at the bottom but can be made safe.

Jim's chudleigh suggestions are safe. 

Proper Charlie I recall has thin gear but quite a lot.

Zuma I have heard is loose atm and runout.

Pegs Progress can be safe, and there is useful beta available out there (can let you know if you'd like, migh be in the guidebook anyway). Clotted Cream is good and well-ish protected. Some creaky rock but the rockfall hasn't affected it badly. 

Daddyhole Upper is conveniant - Anthony and Cleopatra E3 (soft?, safe), Proleteriat Pillar E4, Omerta Roof (E4 ish but unrepeated), and Hang up you Hang Ups (High E4, safe and sporty) 

Dreadnought is great but mutlipitch sea cliff so take that into account if pushing you limit.

Some safe routes that are a lot of fun but a tad harder:

Limestone Cowboys - we couldn't decide maybe E4/E5 6a/6b. But a great route to go have a play on. 

Judge Dredd - use to be regarded as bold but with some beta I thought it was more like safe E4. Again great route to go play on. 

If you're a masochist and enjoy granite jam crack / bouldering, Blood Lust E4 6B is very safe, just hard and bloody. 

I had WWIII on this in the full July sun. Superb and well protected but I've done E4s that felt easier. Onsighted it by the skin of my teeth but had to have a wee lie down afterwards and my feet were in bits.

Wars have started for less...

You could do worse than work your way through the grades at Chudleigh if you’re local.  It’s easy access with mostly solid rock and obvious gear.  Some of the other suggestions on this thread are excellent routes but a bit more committing.

I thought that Raven Wall (E3 5c) and Glass Arête (E3 5c) were both fairly amenable at the grade.

I'm curious about the dislikes for my suggestion of Interrogation. I remember it being quite well protected but it's a long time ago and I was climbing as well as I ever have at the time. I remember finding it pretty hard but not bold. Am I misremembering?

Its been five years but i remember It's mostly very well protected (with a modern rack with small cams), and a totally brilliant E3. Must be a contender for best route on Dartmoor granite. 

However i think its quite bold getting to and past the low peg (before the traverse left). I think microwires would probably help but i didnt own any back then 

Call to Arms (E4 5c) fits the bill - the grade (and name) reflects how strenuous it is

Black Death (E4 6a) is brilliant, around 6c climbing and really well protected 

Call to Arms ain’t an easy one though for someone trying to break into E3/4!

+1 to that KH! 

Years ago (those days are long gone), when sport fit, I seconded Fay (same day as my first ever E2 lead), Break on Through and was within one move at the top of seconding Pacemaker without falls. But Call to Arms was on another level of arm destroying and mind numbing steepness and I had to resort to dogging my way up on second. It’s an incredible line on an outrageous cliff though. 

Good point. Intimidating too. Though it is well protected IRRC (only followed it).

I formally retract my recommendation.