UKC

NEWS: Alex Honnold Solos The Complete Scream E8 6b at Fair Head

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 UKC News 04 Jun 2016
Alex Honnold enjoying the evening sun at Fair Head, 3 kbAlex Honnold has continued his tour of the UK by stopping off at Fair Head, Northern Ireland. Yesterday evening he made a smooth solo ascent of The Complete Scream E8 6b - a 200ft blank wall climb made famous last year by Pete Whittaker's blu-tack and gaffa-tape ascent.

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In reply to UKC News:

Baws of steel!
1
 jimjimjim 04 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

This guy is next level human.
1
 Matt Vigg 04 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome, anyone know how much of what he solos is onsight? Guess he pre-practices the really hard stuff, like that big wall in south America not long back. I'd be interested to know what the hardest thing that he's done onsight is, or anyone else for that matter.
2
 sbc_10 04 Jun 2016
In reply to jimjimjim:

> This guy is next level human.

Nexus-6....
 muppetfilter 04 Jun 2016
In reply to sbc_10:

> Nexus-6....

Sadly the light that burns twice as brightly burns half as long ....
23
blahblahblacksheep 04 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Alex "no big deal" Honnold.
1
 Jonas Wiklund 04 Jun 2016
In reply to Matt Vigg:

Quite a few of Honnhold's solos have been onsight. Fiesta de los Biceps in Riglos and Rouge Berbere in Taghia to mention two very committing multipitch solos.
 DWS gibraltar 04 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Apart from Muhammad Ali he's the greatest!
In reply to UKC News:

Ali carried on boxing too long. Alex Honnold is a great guy. I hope he slows up soon. He has nothing else to prove.
3
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

I hadn't heard he'd done that until seeing his talk, mind blowing

In reply to UKC News:

Nice work. So lucky with the weather, he could clean up in the UK. The longest spell of ideal weather there's been in ages. Hope Scotland is on his list, and he manages to reach there before the clouds draw in.
 Sl@te Head 05 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Anyone know what he did on the slate?
 jon 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Shouldn't that be: 'yeah, but what's he done........ '
 Andrew Wilson 05 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

'kme. What an absolute machine.
 Richardlake 05 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

He also soloed left wall, right wall, and memory lane and down-climbed cenotaph corner and cemetery gates at the cromlech, before roping up 'for the sport of it' to do lord of the flies. Pictures to follow...
1
 maybe_si 05 Jun 2016
In reply to Richardlake:

Jerry did that decades ago...!
5
 Peter Walker 05 Jun 2016
In reply to maybe_si:

Outdated crag, innit...
 J1234 05 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

I really hope he is doing this stuff for himself, because he enjoys it. As a wise person I have climbed with said, "do not solo Lenin, a Seagull can always shit in your eye."
5
In reply to Lenin:
I think you have hit the mark here. These endeavours are only of value if they are done for the joy of completion by the individual who does so. If they are done for bravado or public recognition then that devalues them for me.
PS Watch out for the seagulls!
Post edited at 20:24
7
 deepsoup 05 Jun 2016
In reply to maybe_si:
> Jerry did that decades ago...!

As did John Arran (of this parish). It was bloody impressive then, and it still is now.
 maybe_si 05 Jun 2016
In reply to deepsoup:
I didn't know that? Awesome stuff!
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

> I think you have hit the mark here.

I think you can be fairly confident he's making good decisions. Imagine you were Alex Honnold and you were at Fairhead - you'd probably think that soloing The Complete Scream was the best thing to do - looks amazing, and it's either solo it or use blu-tack and gaffer tape. Someone probably said that was the gear required and he didn't know what they were talking about!
 bensilvestre 06 Jun 2016
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Its worth recognising that the vast majority of climbing that Alex does he has a rope on for, its just when he goes for a cheeky solo it happens to be an E8 not an E1
 deacondeacon 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Lenin:

> I really hope he is doing this stuff for himself, because he enjoys it.

Nah he hates it, but really wants to impress a load of people on the Internet.

 Offwidth 06 Jun 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Its not as if he has a book out where he explains himself. Climbers are the last people you would expect to come out with this superstitious claptrap. All climbing is dangerous and we all choose our games. If climbers want to get at anyone for pushing the risk envelope try punters attempting Everest or top end himalayan climbers or even young climbers starting off in the Alps with no help; someone with a perfect soloing head dealing with projects the way Honnald does is down the list. This is what can happen in safe climbing: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68190.
1
 deacondeacon 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Offwidth:
Spot on. He soloed Right Wall a couple of days ago and I led it for the first time yesterday. The thought of being on that too crux with no rope is the stuff of nightmares for me but it's a completely different game. It's about f6c on lovely solid rock and is escapable all the way up miles within his capabilities.


 Geordie Jeans 06 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Whens he getting on indian face?
5
 Blake 06 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

The elephants in the room... Cloggy, Gogarth
8
 SFrancis 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Pretty sure we watched a smooth ascent of tambourine man from g'day level.
In reply to UKC News:

Saw on Instagram a vid of him flashing The Dark Side, E8 6c, just a min ago John Roberts (johnrobeds) posted it. Impressive stuff!
In reply to UKC News:

Perhaps THE most inspiring climber of this generation?
4
 Ed Booth 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Duncan Campbell: obvious choice for E8 flash/on sight. Well protected crux and the rest of the run out is e5/6 standard. Maybe a touch harder right at the top but not that hard for a man of his calibre.

 GrahamD 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Shani:

> Perhaps THE most inspiring climber of this generation?

Hmmm. Not sure how inspiring I find hard soloing. Hugely impressive yes, but not inspiring to me.
5
In reply to GrahamD:

> Hmmm. Not sure how inspiring I find hard soloing. Hugely impressive yes, but not inspiring to me.

I see where you are coming from. He doesn't inspire me to solo, but he does inspire me to look at what holds me back mentally. I'm too quick to repeatedly retreat from the crux, burn out and fall...or grab the gear. Perhaps I could push it a bit more on a rope. Maybe I just need to train the mental aspect of my climbing just that little bit more to fulfill my physical potential?

 Paul38uk 06 Jun 2016
In reply to Ed Booth:

If you have a rope...
 Ed Booth 06 Jun 2016
In reply to paul29uk:
We're referring to his flash of the Dark side. Don't know if he had a rope but assuming he did. The crux is quite safe but a bloody hard move which would be very impressive if he soloed it.
 Ian Bentley 06 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

E is for Extreme!
In reply to UKC News:
UKC's Developer Martin McKenna was fortunate enough to witness the ascent

Fortunate?
4
In reply to Ed Booth:

Yeah he had a rope on for that one Boothy. Remember you and Ad checking it out last year now. Hope you're climbing well mate.
 stp 06 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Grimer has just interviewed Honnold in his Jam Crack podcast series...

http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-013-alex-honnold
In reply to stp:

Grimer has just interviewed Honnold in his Jam Crack podcast series...

Excellent stuff - Honnold comes across as a 'Top Bloke'. Humble, sincere and with no airs or graces.
However, it does raise a question: Who's nicer, Grimer or Honnold?

 Paul38uk 07 Jun 2016
In reply to Ed Booth:

Ah, sorry my bad
 Ben Briggs 07 Jun 2016
 mrteale 07 Jun 2016
In reply to Ben Briggs:

Wow. That was pretty harrowing to watch on a video, I can't imagine what it was like to be there.
 JR 07 Jun 2016
In reply to UKC News:

He flashed The Dark Side (E8 6c) also the day after.

Video here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BGTnQx-r4hy/

I'll upload a full thing once I get back from Fairhead.
 stp 07 Jun 2016
In reply to Ben Briggs:

There's a UK version with short interview: youtube.com/watch?v=b4c-8xWD1Mk&

And also an unedited version of the full route: youtube.com/watch?v=Qz5xRgD0HW8&

Both Youtube so you won't have to wait forever to download as you do on the EpicTV hosted vids.
In reply to mrteale:

> Wow. That was pretty harrowing to watch on a video, I can't imagine what it was like to be there.

Quite: I'd rather not
In reply to Ben Briggs:

Wait , wait - he can speak French too? Is there nothing this man can't do?
In reply to Bobling: Well what he does is impressive but it's not cutting edge in terms of movement difficulty, what's the hardest sports route or boulder problem that he's done? There's the proverbial question "what's he ever done on Lime?" - something sounds wrong there

It seems to me that he picks his routes carefully when soloing to not be too steep - allows him to stay in control and rest when he needs to. Fair enough - I do the same when I'm soloing - I pick carefully - just at a much, much lower level.

At that particular climbing game he's certainly at the top - I hope it doesn't go pear shaped.
6
In reply to Michael Hood:

Hasn't he climbed 8c+? I remember him saying that he is famous for soloing but actually 95% of his climbing is sport. You don't get strong for soloing by soloing.
In reply to Bobling:

My French is so poor and rusty I got maybe half of what Alex was saying - does anyone speak good French who can give an opinion on how fluent he is? It sounded pretty good to me but nicely unaffected, I liked how he say a little phrase in English then have a go at translating it!
In reply to TobyA: Exactly, 8c+ is nowhere near cutting edge for sport redpoint (regardless of how far above punters like myself that might be). But he is good at what he does, and he seems like a nice guy.

 Jonas Wiklund 08 Jun 2016
 melocoton 09 Jun 2016
In reply to TobyA:

His accent really isn't great, his vocab is sound but the finer points of his grammar lack accuracy. However, given how few native English speakers full stop, never mind native English speaking sports people, are capable of conducting an interview in a foreign language at any level I say hats off to him, it is an impressive effort.
 Matt Vigg 10 Jun 2016
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

Wow I just watched the video of the solo, made me feel ever so slightly sick but very impressive, and I just re-read the article here which says all he did was ab and check out some of the holds. That comes across in the video too as you see him checking some of the moves and holds out as he goes.

Not sure why my original question got some down votes, I find if incredible what he does and that some of it is onsight is mind blowing!
In reply to Ben Briggs:

Ugh. Unpleasant enough watching the video. If I was there and so didn't know the outcome I doubt I could watch.

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