/ ARTICLE: Comes The Dervish

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UKC Articles 17 Jul 2019
The all time slate classic  - Comes the Dervish E3 5c Seàn Fortune writes about climbing Stevie Haston's classic Comes the Dervish E3 5c at Vivian Quarry, Llanberis, on 'just one of those days where it all clicked...'

The bubble rushes in, closer than usual; nothing exists outside of the reach of a limb and a long string of holds leading up, ever up. Breathe. Relax. Move. Repeat. It flows, oh how it flows, each move sequencing into the next like the most beautiful ballet imaginable. And somehow I know the moves, I'm a part of it.



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Alun 17 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Plus ça change...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/come_to_the_dervish-21

(edit: I enjoyed both articles!)

Post edited at 11:29
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Paul Sagar 17 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Aaargh after having sent Left Wall with ease, I was more than toying with the idea of the Dervish as my end of season goal. This has certainly got me scheming even more seriously.... 

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Gavin 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

I've always known this climb as 'Comes the Dervish', but looking at the image of the new routes book the original name was 'Come the Dervish'.  When did the extra 's' get added and have I been wrong all these years?

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DubyaJamesDubya 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Gavin:

It's always been Comes the Dervish to my knowledge. Surely Paul Williams would have known!

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kermit_uk 17 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

This was a main aim for me this summer had a trip planned for it but weather put stop to that. Now you can't access it. This article has made me even more sad! 😭

Great read.

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Paul Sagar 17 Jul 2019
In reply to kermit_uk:

Is Vivian Quarry still entirely off limits? Does anyone know when that might change?

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pasbury 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Gavin:

Pretty conclusive isn’t it? It’s called Come the Dervish. Has anyone asked Haston?

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Sean Kelly 17 Jul 2019
In reply to pasbury:

Yes, I noticed that too. The 's' must have been added when Paul Williams did his famous Pass guide. No other teason I can see.

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Graeme Hammond 17 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Noticed recently that "Last tango in Paris" has become "Last tango in Peris" (Last Tango in Peris (E2 5b)) when did this change too?

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JonesE 17 Jul 2019
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Graeme Hammond 17 Jul 2019
In reply to JonesE:

Thanks, missed that.

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In reply to pasbury:

Well, assuming he got to see the proofs of his own article linked to in the OP, Stevie H seems to be happy with Comes.

jcm

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Misha 18 Jul 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

It’s gone from E4/5 6a to E3 5c. Just give it a bit more time and it will be an E2 5b hand jamming crack. But don’t leave it too long, otherwise it will become an arete. 

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Gabe Oliver 18 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great read. Reminiscent of doing it myself as my first E3 in April sunshine on the first trad trip of that year. Still one of my favourite experiences on rock!

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DubyaJamesDubya 18 Jul 2019
In reply to Misha:

> It’s gone from E4/5 6a to E3 5c. Just give it a bit more time and it will be an E2 5b hand jamming crack. But don’t leave it too long, otherwise it will become an arete. 

I was told that the crack was initially so dirty you couldn't get much gear in which was the reason for the grade.

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Sean Kelly 18 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

My main memory of the climb was the suffering of my calves using the very small footholds and wearing original Fires which were quite bendy.

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GridNorth 18 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

I did this many years ago as one of my first E4's.  There was no gear for the first 20 feet or so and I bottled out on the first attempt just a couple of feet off the ground.  We went and did Pull My Daisy and Ride the Wild Surf, which my partner led. He then almost ordered me to go and try again which I did with relative ease.  I did it again in 1995, I think it was E3 by then, and have to say I found it considerably easier on this occasion.

Al

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deacondeacon 18 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

All I remember is being more and more scared as I got closer and closer to the overlap, only to find that it's the easy bit  

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Alkis 19 Jul 2019

When I did it last year, I got what I felt to be the crux move wrong and pretty much blew it... screamed “I’m not f***ing falling off here” and somehow reversed the move with one arm... such is the power of wanting to onsight a classic. Good times! xD

Post edited at 00:11
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DubyaJamesDubya 19 Jul 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Same here although a comment like that ought to have 'beta alert' in front of it

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gallam1 03 Aug 2019
In reply to Misha:

> It’s gone from E4/5 6a to E3 5c. Just give it a bit more time and it will be an E2 5b hand jamming crack. But don’t leave it too long, otherwise it will become an arete. 

You brought to mind this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PywRnBl7IE

Mickey's Beach Crack in San Francisco, now sadly Mickey's Beach Arete.  The crack was great...

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