This week's Friday Night Video is a wave of nostalgia for those north of the border. Shot in 1999, Cutting Loose captures the vibrant scene at Dumbarton, from the desperate bouldering test pieces, run-out trad, and the kids that use the crag as a hang-out. Sit back with a bottle of Buckfast and enjoy!
I enjoyed it as well and saw lots of familiar faces among the non-Macleod GUM club boulderers - I think Dave started at Glasgow the year after I left. But I knew Nick and a number of the others who were in both his films. Interesting to hear he's cycling at a high standard. Go Nick!
It's interesting how few bouldering mats there are. It doesn't seem so long ago otherwise, I reckon I still have my Animal fleece hat somewhere. I worked in a climbing shop 93 - 96, and although we got in the first GPS units, first wire gate krabs etc while I was there, we never had bouldering mats. It's like Ben and Jerry had to bring some up from Sheffield! I made one, cutting a cheap karrimat into thirds and duck taping it into a triple layer square mat. It wasn't very good. 😆
I fell off Stonefall Crack Direct just at the spot Kirk nearly did. I blamed the worn through rand on my Kamet Joshua Trees. Nearly hit the ground because my biggest cam (Quadcam 3.8 # anyone remember them?) only fitted about halfway up the main crack.
Have you climbed there? Some of the boulders are really big and at least when I was a lad (well, ok, when I was a student) no mats, so the big slab up Eagle Boulder felt like an HVS rather than f4 or whatever it gets now.