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/ NEWS: Daniel Jung repeats Recovery Drink, 5.14+ crack

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UKC News - on 08 Aug 2018
Daniel Jung on Recovery Drink, 5.14+, 2 kbDaniel Jung has made the first repeat of Nico Favresse's 2013 crack test piece Recovery drink, a steep crack on the Profilveggen at Jøssingfjord in the southern most part of Norway. 

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NextOliver - on 08 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome! The potential for hard ascents on Norwegian granite never ends, it seems. But, why is a route in Norway, climbed by a Belgian and repeated by a German, given an American grade on a British climbing site..?

bensilvestre - on 08 Aug 2018
In reply to NextOliver:

Because America (specifically Yosemite and Indian Creek) is where the vast majority of people learn to crack climb properly, and as such it is easier to speak about the difficulty of a crack in American grades. Same reason why we talk about British sport climbs in terms of French grades I guess.

Well done Daniel... well deserved from a mega friendly guy!

 

NextOliver - on 09 Aug 2018
In reply to bensilvestre:

I see. I live in Norway myself, and we never use American grades here, not even for crack climbs, so was wondering why it is so in the UK. 

bensilvestre - on 09 Aug 2018
In reply to NextOliver:

It seems quite commonplace here now. Not for routes in the UK as we don't have many real cracks, but certainly a lot of UK climbers are giving routes they climb in the Himalaya/ Greenland etc American grades for the rock pitches. The list of significant UK climbs on the current Piolet D'or news item is a good example

Skotch85 - on 09 Aug 2018
In reply to NextOliver:

Is it not just the media coverage? Who reported it first? Possibly a climbing magazine from the US, hence the grading, that then further get's taken on in the other channels.

Ollie Keynes on 09 Aug 2018
In reply to NextOliver:

Climbing imperialism

TobyA on 09 Aug 2018
In reply to NextOliver:

The original Webster Lofoten guide gave all the routes Norwegian and YDS grades.

Robert Durran - on 09 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Very odd and, in my opinion, rubbish name for such a brilliant looking route!

NextOliver - on 14:16 Wed
In reply to TobyA:

Yes, the author is American so that makes sense, I guess. What I meant was that it is not common among climbers to use YDS grades at all here, unless perhaps for routes in America. The French system is taking over though, usually most routes 7a and above, all above 8b. 

 

Still awesome achievement there. Agree on the name, though; not so epic for possibly the hardest crack climb in the world..


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