/ NEWS: Daniel Jung repeats Recovery Drink, 5.14+ crack
Awesome! The potential for hard ascents on Norwegian granite never ends, it seems. But, why is a route in Norway, climbed by a Belgian and repeated by a German, given an American grade on a British climbing site..?
Because America (specifically Yosemite and Indian Creek) is where the vast majority of people learn to crack climb properly, and as such it is easier to speak about the difficulty of a crack in American grades. Same reason why we talk about British sport climbs in terms of French grades I guess.
Well done Daniel... well deserved from a mega friendly guy!
I see. I live in Norway myself, and we never use American grades here, not even for crack climbs, so was wondering why it is so in the UK.
It seems quite commonplace here now. Not for routes in the UK as we don't have many real cracks, but certainly a lot of UK climbers are giving routes they climb in the Himalaya/ Greenland etc American grades for the rock pitches. The list of significant UK climbs on the current Piolet D'or news item is a good example
Is it not just the media coverage? Who reported it first? Possibly a climbing magazine from the US, hence the grading, that then further get's taken on in the other channels.
The original Webster Lofoten guide gave all the routes Norwegian and YDS grades.
Very odd and, in my opinion, rubbish name for such a brilliant looking route!
Yes, the author is American so that makes sense, I guess. What I meant was that it is not common among climbers to use YDS grades at all here, unless perhaps for routes in America. The French system is taking over though, usually most routes 7a and above, all above 8b.
Still awesome achievement there. Agree on the name, though; not so epic for possibly the hardest crack climb in the world..
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