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NEWS: Daniel Woods climbs The Creature from the black lagoon, ~8C+

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 UKC News 29 Sep 2016
Daniel Woods on The Creature from the black laggon,~8C+, Upper Chaos, Chaos Canyon, CO, 4 kbDaniel Woods has fiinally climbed through his mental barrier and made the first ascent of The Monster from the black lagoon, ~8C+, at the Upper Chaos Canyon at Chaos Canyon, Colorado.

The Monster from the black lagoon is the low start to Leviathan style, ~8A, and Daniel says...

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 Dandan 29 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

So is it the Creature or the Monster...?
 edinburgh_man 29 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan:

Dunno whether it's a creature or a monster, but seems like Bjorn has forgotten about The Process too. More terrible reporting..........

FFS
9
 mrchewy 29 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

"dawoods89finally climbed the black 90 last night aka "creature from the black lagoon." "

From his instagram account - and also an explanation of why he's calling it V16.

" As for how hard this thing is? that is a question that will obviously be thrown around, accepted or bashed. For me to compare it to other 15s I've done, analyze the breakdown (to me it felt like v15 to get into the stand of leviathan, no rest, then soft 11 to the top) then come up with a number to represent the climb is difficult. I believe this line is harder than most 15s I've done so why not call it 16... If train is ran on it and consensus calls it 15, then that is all good. @dave_graham_ and I have talked a lot about the progression of grades and try to understand what would make something 16. We are left dumbfounded to realize that the same level in bouldering has maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem loskot a decade ago until now. We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing v15 for another decade."
 Alex the Alex 29 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

More importantly how crunchy was his outfit?
In reply to Alex the Alex:

> More importantly how crunchy was his outfit?

And how many onlooking cuties were required for success?
In reply to Dandan:

It's the "Creature" of course. Sorry!
In reply to edinburgh_man:

Yep, forgot about The Process... Whether it's still ~8C+ after the break, I don't know.
In reply to mrchewy:
> " As for how hard this thing is? that is a question that will obviously be thrown around, accepted or bashed. For me to compare it to other 15s I've done, analyze the breakdown (to me it felt like v15 to get into the stand of leviathan, no rest, then soft 11 to the top) then come up with a number to represent the climb is difficult. I believe this line is harder than most 15s I've done so why not call it 16... If train is ran on it and consensus calls it 15, then that is all good. @dave_graham_ and I have talked a lot about the progression of grades and try to understand what would make something 16. We are left dumbfounded to realize that the same level in bouldering has maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem loskot a decade ago until now. We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing v15 for another decade."

But are today's climbers actually 'a grade better' than Fred, Kem, Bernd etc? (just curious)
 stp 29 Sep 2016
In reply to Toerag:

Yeah of course there is no reason that over a period of time climbs are getting harder and harder. But, from the Ledge interview with Nalle Huckatival (or was it Jimmy Webb?) it sounds like the 8c grade is now very wide with hard 8cs being a lot harder than the easier ones.

I've heard said that for a climb of a new grade to be accepted it has to be a full grade harder than what has gone before. This makes sense. If something is only a little bit harder then subjective aspects like style, reach etc. may mean that someone else genuinely finds the new, next level climb, easier than one at the previous level. However if things only progress slowly in fractions of a grade then the next grade may never be reached, or at least recognized as such.
In reply to UKC News:

Sorry but I have no interest in what Daniel Woods was climbing unless I know exactly who he was wearing this season.
2
 jsmcfarland 29 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Nice to see some progression in bouldering. Daniel is one of the few (?) people to be brave and put the v16 label out there. He really can't be the only person operating at this level other than Nalle for example. Bring on more 16's!

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