UKC

This week's Friday Night Video is a Font bouldering short featuring Ethan Pringle from 'Sandstones'.

He says:

"Two crisps day in the forest with Ethan Pringle, Trine, Ting & Abond from Yangshuo."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=65145

In reply to UKC News: The video starts with a person putting a massive chalk tick mark on the rock, what a joke........ FFS!

Hello,
I made this video and I think I should clarify this : at 2'44" you should see this tickmark beeing brushed. I cut it, and shouldn't have.
I must also mention that Ethan has explained himself about the Big dragon tickmarks here : http://bleau.info/forum/24313.html
If you don't speak french, the first posts are very aggresive toward Ethan, but very friendly after he explained himself. I guess the debate about the ethic presented in this video is closed. Stays the necessary debate about tickmark abuse, in a lot of the bouldering meccas.
Cheers,
Clem.

In reply to sanddsstones: Fair enough, I'm glad you brushed them away, although I still don't understand why you thought it was necessary to have any footage off drawing tick marks at all?

You have a good point, I chose this image for the nice light, and should have shown the brushing too. It's the first video that I put on internet with a decend coverage, but not the last one. I'll take that into account in the next ones.

In reply to sanddsstones:

Fantastic shot at 4:49 - 5:03 on Tigre et Dragon. Loved this!

In reply to willackers:

Calm down ffs, bit of water and a brush and they're gone..

Why shouldn't it be in the video?

In reply to cha1n: Wetting sandstone and brushing it is not a great thing to be doing, if you think drawing big tick marks is acceptable then you need to have a word with yourself. There's no need for it.

In reply to willackers:

I agree that the tick marks in that video are excessive but also think that there are situations when they are useful. Like throwing for blind holds or marking up tiny footholds.

Well if wetting (directly) and then brushing is a bad idea then brushing them gently and letting the rain do the rest must be ok? That's what I did last time I was in Font but I only used them on one problem..

In reply to cha1n:

what about scrubbing holds with a brush liberally dipped in chalk? often see this in bouldering videos, def see someone doing it i)n this video & saw the same in the last bouldering video I looked at (paul robinson maybe?.

So why do you need to paint chalk all over every hold while giving it a brush, and surely this is provocative in a region where the locals are trying to keep chalk use to a minumum?

Maybe it's necessary on these very hard climbs, but you see this emulated and next thing you know some doofus will be chalking the jugs on a V0 (in fact i've seen this more times than I care to count).

In reply to UKC News:

nice to see abon in font! enjoyed the video!