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The rampage continues.
"After Gaia, I went and threw a rope down Meshuga for the second time. The friction was amazing, the wind was blowing hard, and I was all alone. So, I pulled the rope and sat at the base for a while, thinking about whether or not I wanted to go for it. Finally, I chalked up and started climbing, letting the moves force the commitment. It all felt solid and soon I was gleefully pulling the summit roofs with a big smile on my face. There were no crash pads at the base, and like Alex, I decided to eschew the rope as the top is quite easy. The whole experience was quite surreal, but rewarding. "
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45456
"After Gaia, I went and threw a rope down Meshuga for the second time. The friction was amazing, the wind was blowing hard, and I was all alone. So, I pulled the rope and sat at the base for a while, thinking about whether or not I wanted to go for it. Finally, I chalked up and started climbing, letting the moves force the commitment. It all felt solid and soon I was gleefully pulling the summit roofs with a big smile on my face. There were no crash pads at the base, and like Alex, I decided to eschew the rope as the top is quite easy. The whole experience was quite surreal, but rewarding. "
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45456
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: fakin ell, this is getting better and better!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: If Jorgenson has soloed Meshuga after 2 top rope ascents surely this has to be one of the finest pieces of hard single pitch climbimg to date.
In reply to aln:
Both Kevin Jorgeson and Alex Honnold soloed Meshuga. After top rope practice, with no pads.
Both Kevin Jorgeson and Alex Honnold soloed Meshuga. After top rope practice, with no pads.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Amazing effort - again! I think these guys quite like the grit!
I always reckoned there were two things in UK climbing worth visiting from afar - grit and our sea-cliffs.
Chris
Amazing effort - again! I think these guys quite like the grit!
I always reckoned there were two things in UK climbing worth visiting from afar - grit and our sea-cliffs.
Chris
In reply to aln: is this the hardest headpoint(ish) solo in trad terms?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: wow!!! Theirs just no stopping these guys...well Gaia i suppose
In reply to Liam Copley:
I'm waiting for the first:
"How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity"
Chris
I'm waiting for the first:
"How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity"
Chris
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Amazing!Nice one Kevin and Alex, hope the weather is kind for your final week, keep doing what you're doing, best of luck.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity?
How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Impressive.
I wonder how long it will be until someone solos it onsight/flash? Or leads it for that matter.
Impressive.
I wonder how long it will be until someone solos it onsight/flash? Or leads it for that matter.
In reply to Liam Copley: Ben Tetler on Knockin'? As as far as I know, he hadn't linked it before he went for the solo.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Two of them, wow. Stunning climbing. No pads. Even better. But then, TR, hm. Stunning climbing.
These guys are clearly fantastic climbers and are showing what's possible when you take skill, determination, bravery and talent around the world.
These guys are clearly fantastic climbers and are showing what's possible when you take skill, determination, bravery and talent around the world.
In reply to Oli: How hard's the top section of Meshuga, after the cam?
In reply to james oswald:
I reckon an onsight of Meshuga is going to take some time. Obviously its possible, especially if you get a mate to put the tick marks on for you but without them some of those slaps are completely blind.
:-O
I reckon an onsight of Meshuga is going to take some time. Obviously its possible, especially if you get a mate to put the tick marks on for you but without them some of those slaps are completely blind.
:-O
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: amazing. effort lads.
In reply to Will Hunt:
How many pads do you think people would need before they think about the ground up is what crossed my mind? Onsighting it? Well yeah without your chalk that's just daft. After you survive the onsight solo of Master's Edge, this can be the one true Gritstone master's net challenge. These American's are very good, and very damned impressive, but unless you've got some serious beef and some seriously Ca Colle friction day (and a tail wind) that blind slap is still a blind slap.
How many pads do you think people would need before they think about the ground up is what crossed my mind? Onsighting it? Well yeah without your chalk that's just daft. After you survive the onsight solo of Master's Edge, this can be the one true Gritstone master's net challenge. These American's are very good, and very damned impressive, but unless you've got some serious beef and some seriously Ca Colle friction day (and a tail wind) that blind slap is still a blind slap.
In reply to Paz:
And if you are aware that it requires a blind slap - is it on sight?
Ere we go, ere we go, ere we go!
Chris
Joking btw - no response required!
And if you are aware that it requires a blind slap - is it on sight?
Ere we go, ere we go, ere we go!
Chris
Joking btw - no response required!
In reply to Chris Craggs:
If your third eye, intuition and grasp of geometry (and on site inspection/reccee told you that) then yes. If someone else told you that, then...
If your third eye, intuition and grasp of geometry (and on site inspection/reccee told you that) then yes. If someone else told you that, then...
In reply to Removed User: Possibly E3?
In reply to Paz:
Looks pretty obvious where to head for!
http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/77453901
Chris
PS Taken 18 months ago btw!!!!
Looks pretty obvious where to head for!
http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/77453901
Chris
PS Taken 18 months ago btw!!!!
In reply to Oli:
When I were a lad it were VS.....
And anyway, anyone who has seen hard grit can't claim the route as they have too much prior info. Even having the video in your house - or a friend's house - or their friend's house - well, you can't be too careful claiming an on-sight...
When I were a lad it were VS.....
And anyway, anyone who has seen hard grit can't claim the route as they have too much prior info. Even having the video in your house - or a friend's house - or their friend's house - well, you can't be too careful claiming an on-sight...
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: A question for Mick Ryan. Did Kevin Jorgeson fall off Gaia and hit the ground?
In reply to John_Hat: also there is sufficent beta that crumbles the onsight just on the front cover..
In reply to thomasadixon:
Can you aim and hit a pad from 40ft up?
aint it great being young and fearless.
and pretty good as well.
Can you aim and hit a pad from 40ft up?
aint it great being young and fearless.
and pretty good as well.
In reply to thomasadixon: In the report it says there were no pads. It says "there were no crash pads at the base".
In reply to aln: i think they are talking about Meshuga there..
In reply to Liam Copley:
BTW, for your information and eyes only,shhh.
Indian Face has not had an onsight ascent where the leader places all the gear on lead yet. go for it.
BTW, for your information and eyes only,shhh.
Indian Face has not had an onsight ascent where the leader places all the gear on lead yet. go for it.
In reply to Liam Copley: Did Kevin Jorgesen fall off Gaia?
In reply to sutty: Link only started working just now. So, was it a roped padded ascent?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Oh yeah, crazy of me to think that reading "decks off Gaia" meant a nasty fall.
In reply to aln:
Dude - read the text, look at the photos.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45456
Yes, fell off from near the top: hit a pad on the floor, fell almost the full length of the route. Gets up, brushes himself off, then completes Gaia.
Then he solos Meshuga, no pads, after two sessions checking the moves. Honnold had soloed Meshuga the day before.
Gobsmacking.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) A question for Mick Ryan. Did Kevin Jorgeson fall off Gaia and hit the ground?
Dude - read the text, look at the photos.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45456
Yes, fell off from near the top: hit a pad on the floor, fell almost the full length of the route. Gets up, brushes himself off, then completes Gaia.
Then he solos Meshuga, no pads, after two sessions checking the moves. Honnold had soloed Meshuga the day before.
Gobsmacking.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Good photo; hadnt realised what a stunning line Meshuga is.
Once again I do find myself wondering what this disrespectful treatment of the big grit numbers tells you about how they stack up versus MacLeod and Birkett testpieces?
Good photo; hadnt realised what a stunning line Meshuga is.
Once again I do find myself wondering what this disrespectful treatment of the big grit numbers tells you about how they stack up versus MacLeod and Birkett testpieces?
In reply to Jamie B.:
They clearly don't have any Birkett or McCleod DVDs otherwise or I'm sure they'd be tearing them apart too.
I bet they can't wait to get home stick on Hard Grit and go "done it, done it, done it, done it, done it", anyone would think they don't have a guidebook!
Great effort indeed.
They clearly don't have any Birkett or McCleod DVDs otherwise or I'm sure they'd be tearing them apart too.
I bet they can't wait to get home stick on Hard Grit and go "done it, done it, done it, done it, done it", anyone would think they don't have a guidebook!
Great effort indeed.
In reply to andi turner:
They dont have a guide book!
> I bet they can't wait to get home stick on Hard Grit and go "done it, done it, done it, done it, done it", anyone would think they don't have a guidebook!
>
> Great effort indeed.
>
> Great effort indeed.
They dont have a guide book!
In reply to Chris Craggs:
The answer would be pretty simple to that one, if he had landed the other way round when he swung back in towards the arete he would of taken the full impact on his face, which probably wouldn't have been good considering how much he said his heels hurt.
> (In reply to Liam Copley)
>
> I'm waiting for the first:
>
> "How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity"
>
>
> Chris
>
> I'm waiting for the first:
>
> "How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity"
>
>
> Chris
The answer would be pretty simple to that one, if he had landed the other way round when he swung back in towards the arete he would of taken the full impact on his face, which probably wouldn't have been good considering how much he said his heels hurt.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Kevin Jorgeson soloing Feeding Frenzy 8b at Rumney, New Hampshire.
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/06/video-of-kevin-jorgeson-bouldering-feeding-...
And soloing The Fly also at Rumney, New Hampshire.... 9a or 5.14d/V14
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/06/kevin-jorgeson-bouldering-the-fly-video
Kevin Jorgeson soloing Feeding Frenzy 8b at Rumney, New Hampshire.
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/06/video-of-kevin-jorgeson-bouldering-feeding-...
And soloing The Fly also at Rumney, New Hampshire.... 9a or 5.14d/V14
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/06/kevin-jorgeson-bouldering-the-fly-video
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I thought the consensus was that the existence of a DVD precludes an ansight attempt ever again? Unless done by visitors from another planet within 24 hours of their arrival on earth, and accompanied by a sworn affidavit from their mum that little Zar'Arghon had never watched any climbing vids...
;oP
> (In reply to Liam Copley)
>
> I'm waiting for the first:
>
> "How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity"
>
> I'm waiting for the first:
>
> "How can Gaia possibly be Ebignumbers when you can fall off the crux with impunity"
I thought the consensus was that the existence of a DVD precludes an ansight attempt ever again? Unless done by visitors from another planet within 24 hours of their arrival on earth, and accompanied by a sworn affidavit from their mum that little Zar'Arghon had never watched any climbing vids...
;oP
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
and Flight of the Bumblebee at the Beehive Area, Buttermilk Country:
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/01/flight-of-the-bumble-bee-v7-highball-videos
and Flight of the Bumblebee at the Beehive Area, Buttermilk Country:
http://climbingnarc.com/2008/01/flight-of-the-bumble-bee-v7-highball-videos
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Great sequence of stills on that first clip. I particularly like the shot at about 1:25...what peak is that in the background?
Great sequence of stills on that first clip. I particularly like the shot at about 1:25...what peak is that in the background?
In reply to Fraser:
Mount Tom 13,652 feet (4,161 metres).... part of the Sierra crest. Prior to that is Mount Humphrey's 13986 ft / 4263 m.
Buttermilk's is at around 6,000 feet
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Great sequence of stills on that first clip. I particularly like the shot at about 1:25...what peak is that in the background?
>
> Great sequence of stills on that first clip. I particularly like the shot at about 1:25...what peak is that in the background?
Mount Tom 13,652 feet (4,161 metres).... part of the Sierra crest. Prior to that is Mount Humphrey's 13986 ft / 4263 m.
Buttermilk's is at around 6,000 feet
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Well impressive!
Onsight solo of "The File" would top their trip off! The ultimate grit test piece!
Well impressive!
Onsight solo of "The File" would top their trip off! The ultimate grit test piece!
In reply to Scott_M@c:
I'm waiting for one of them to try clippity clop, clippity clop, clippity clop or what ever it is called at ramshaw. Now that would be an impressive on sight attempt.
I'm waiting for one of them to try clippity clop, clippity clop, clippity clop or what ever it is called at ramshaw. Now that would be an impressive on sight attempt.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>"Jorgeson decks off Gaia and two solos of Meshuga!"
I think "decks" is rather over stating the big fall. A headline containing the word "decks" suggests the rope offered him little in the way of assistance. I suspect he'd not have been up for a solo of Meshuga later in the day had the rope not caught his fall from Gaia.
Anyway, dodgey reporting aside, sounds like the lad did good.
>"Jorgeson decks off Gaia and two solos of Meshuga!"
I think "decks" is rather over stating the big fall. A headline containing the word "decks" suggests the rope offered him little in the way of assistance. I suspect he'd not have been up for a solo of Meshuga later in the day had the rope not caught his fall from Gaia.
Anyway, dodgey reporting aside, sounds like the lad did good.
In reply to JLS: Agreed. He did not Deck on Gaia! It looks like a nasty fall and really close to decking but if he had decked he would not have got up from it. Look at the photos on his blog.
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> I think "decks" is rather over stating the big fall.
What an I thinking JLS? Please excuse me for my shoddy reporting!
Jorgeson falls off the last moves of Gaia, rope comes tight due to excellent belaying but he still hits the floor (the deck), crashing into a bouldering matt that his belayer Alex Honnold had moved into position after Kevin had started climbing...........and two solos of Meshuga!
Jeez! No wonder we get a little de-motivated with some forum comments.
I wonder if we will ever hear, "Hey Jack and Mick ... thanks for staying up late and getting these news reports sorted!"
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Anyway -
Gaia 1986
End of the Affair 1986
New Statesman 1987
Parthian 1989
Meshuga 1997
... its all right these guys ticking classics, when are they going to try some modern test-pieces?
Chris
Anyway -
Gaia 1986
End of the Affair 1986
New Statesman 1987
Parthian 1989
Meshuga 1997
... its all right these guys ticking classics, when are they going to try some modern test-pieces?
Chris
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Hey Jack and Mick ... thanks for staying up late and getting these news reports sorted!
...You could at least get it right though!!!
Hey Jack and Mick ... thanks for staying up late and getting these news reports sorted!
...You could at least get it right though!!!
In reply to Chris Craggs:
The Promise?
Are there really that many left since the halcyon grit days. The Groove, Harder Faster and equilibrium I guess.
Forecast looks good for HG routes today & tomoz - be good to see some non-Peak grit action.
Widdop Wall is crying out to be done. Has High Fidelity been done ground up yet?
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
>
> Anyway -
>
>
> Anyway -
>
> ... its all right these guys ticking classics, when are they going to try some modern test-pieces?
>
> ... its all right these guys ticking classics, when are they going to try some modern test-pieces?
>
The Promise?
Are there really that many left since the halcyon grit days. The Groove, Harder Faster and equilibrium I guess.
Forecast looks good for HG routes today & tomoz - be good to see some non-Peak grit action.
Widdop Wall is crying out to be done. Has High Fidelity been done ground up yet?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Sorry Mick, I didn't realise my definition of decking was so out of step with the mainstream. Keep up the good work. :¬)
Sorry Mick, I didn't realise my definition of decking was so out of step with the mainstream. Keep up the good work. :¬)
In reply to g taylor:
Are they visiting Wimberry, a couple of nice routes there to do?
Nice profile of yours BTW
Are they visiting Wimberry, a couple of nice routes there to do?
Nice profile of yours BTW
In reply to richard kirby:
Wizard ridge?
> Are there really that many left since the halcyon grit days.
Wizard ridge?
In reply to sutty:
The thing that the Grit List describes as "Wall right of MaDMAn: Solo. Slopers, pebbles, exposure, death!"?
Sounds irresistable!
> Are they visiting Wimberry, a couple of nice routes there to do?
The thing that the Grit List describes as "Wall right of MaDMAn: Solo. Slopers, pebbles, exposure, death!"?
Sounds irresistable!
In reply to richard kirby:
Widdop Wall is undoubtedly the biggest tick out there - anyone care to hazard what grade it will settle at ?
Widdop Wall is undoubtedly the biggest tick out there - anyone care to hazard what grade it will settle at ?
In reply to GrahamD: Frankly climbing anything at Widdop this time of year warrants an extra couple of grades to account for the difficulty of cleaning every hold on the way up.
In reply to Lemony: I met Kevin Jorgeson and friends in Bishop last november. He had just soloed a stunning new line on one of the peabodies invoving what he quoted as feeling like mid - high 5.12 friction moves about 50-60 feet off the deck....I remember having a conversation with him about the gritstone and the grading and I tried to offer him some sort of comparison (as best I could) with what he´d just done versus grit grades. It was an interesting conversation because it became clear to me that this group of guys have started climbing with a bouldering mentality then pushed this to significant and very bold high ball ascents which are still given bouldering grades stateside but would get high E numbers on the grit....I think their mentality is such more looking at things from a boulderers perspective rather than a route climber perspective. Couple this with a buttermilks apprenticeship and the result is that soloing high of the ground at a high difficulty level is their forte....I´m not surprised at all that they are eating the grit for breakfast....I think folk should watch very closely the groundbreaking stuff that´s happening around Bishop under the guise of bouldering but actually far beyond it...
In reply to mph:
Spot on mph.
Apr 26: E-grades for American Highball Boulder Problems
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=04&year=2007#n36307
> (In reply to Lemony) I...I think folk should watch very closely the groundbreaking stuff that´s happening around Bishop under the guise of bouldering but actually far beyond it...
Spot on mph.
Apr 26: E-grades for American Highball Boulder Problems
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=04&year=2007#n36307
> Jeez! No wonder we get a little de-motivated with some forum comments.
>
> I wonder if we will ever hear, "Hey Jack and Mick ... thanks for staying up late and getting these news reports sorted!"
>
> I wonder if we will ever hear, "Hey Jack and Mick ... thanks for staying up late and getting these news reports sorted!"
Mick, you make it sound like you're doing this on a voluntary basis or something. I'm fairly sure there's something in it for you! Do you think my pupils thank me for staying up late planning lessons?! It's your bloody business! You make money off people coming on this website!
In reply to SI A: It was chalked up on Tuesday.
In reply to GDes:
If Mick starts offering enticements like free stuff he'd see plenty of gratification coming their way, as per the climbing mags approach.
How many times have we seen the 'I love your mag' win letter of the month and a rope?
Anyway, I love UKC. It's the best and I think Mick should get a knighthood.
If Mick starts offering enticements like free stuff he'd see plenty of gratification coming their way, as per the climbing mags approach.
How many times have we seen the 'I love your mag' win letter of the month and a rope?
Anyway, I love UKC. It's the best and I think Mick should get a knighthood.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: When they coming to Baildon bank?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Who was belaying? Decent catch.
One step slower and we have a very different headline.
Who was belaying? Decent catch.
One step slower and we have a very different headline.
In reply to klk: Honnold
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Can it really honestly be a true onsight if;
a) you know the route exists.
b) know where the route is.
c) you then climb it with your eyes open.
i think the answers are clear
jonna
Can it really honestly be a true onsight if;
a) you know the route exists.
b) know where the route is.
c) you then climb it with your eyes open.
i think the answers are clear
jonna
In reply to jonna:
Of course! Because it'd have to be an 'on-feel' if you climbed it with your eyes shut...
> Can it really honestly be a true onsight if;
> c) you then climb it with your eyes open.
> c) you then climb it with your eyes open.
Of course! Because it'd have to be an 'on-feel' if you climbed it with your eyes shut...
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
That's exactly what you should have said, that's what happened .
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> >
> Jorgeson falls off the last moves of Gaia, rope comes tight due to excellent belaying but he still hits the floor (the deck), crashing into a bouldering matt that his belayer Alex Honnold had moved into position after Kevin had started climbing>
>
>
> [...]
>
> >
> Jorgeson falls off the last moves of Gaia, rope comes tight due to excellent belaying but he still hits the floor (the deck), crashing into a bouldering matt that his belayer Alex Honnold had moved into position after Kevin had started climbing>
>
That's exactly what you should have said, that's what happened .
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