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UKC Articles 30 Sep 2016
Maddy Cope on Wild Heart, 3 kbMany climbers travel to the South West in search of granite, but most head straight to the classic cliffs in Cornwall: Bosigran, Sennen and Chair Ladder. For those looking for something a little different, Lundy has a lot to offer...

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Samuel Wainwright 30 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article! BTW the deck chairs in the top of the lighthouse are a great place to eat ice cream!
Simon Caldwell 30 Sep 2016
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

The deckchairs had gone when we were there last month!
Simon Caldwell 30 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Regarding baggage allowances - the main reason for keeping within 20kg is that if the boat is cancelled due to the weather and you take the helicopter instead, then they do weight everybody's bags and enforce the limits. However the excess baggage charges are not high - £5 per 5 kg
Micky J 30 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Antiworlds is one of the best routes anywhere !
Fatclimber 30 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Whoops! That's me in the sea trying to retrieve a jammed rope.
Paul Ha 30 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice article Rob, appreciated the comments on the guide.
Big Lee 30 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Probably my favourite rock destination anywhere. For me a 1 star Lundy route beats a 3 star route in a lot of other places given the general levels of atmosphere and general adventure.

Apart from the pub food I remember the Lundy free range lamb sold in the shop tasted amazing when put on a BBQ!
Misha 01 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:
Good work, surprised there wasn't a destination guide to it already! Got to go back there...

My other enduring memory of Lundy is the ab into the Devil's Limekiln off what can only be described as a giant rabbit hole.
Offwidth 01 Oct 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Well said Simon... its daft to penny pinch to avoid the possibility of such small charges and potentially limit ones climbing (a serious possibility if you are camping). Especially fuuny when you overhear the angst in the pub about making weight limits as they finish their nth pint. Similarly I heard 'can I have a look at your guide'... bloody buy one and support the efforts that make the place a climbing wonderland (fabulous work btw Paul). Climbers... you gotta love em.
James Oswald 01 Oct 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

It was me and the party I visited Lundy with in 2014 who paid an excess baggage charge that Rob mentioned. My memory is that the charge was for just one bag that exceeded the 20kg limit and that the charge was ~ £80-100. Admittedly however my memory is a little fuzzy!
Offwidth 01 Oct 2016
In reply to James Oswald:

What were you carrying or was this some, kind of fine ? ...follow the link here on the winter helicopter its £5 for every 5kg over (and you get 5kg handl luggage). The return trip is not much less than the price you were charged (if its not just fuzzy memory)

In reply to Offwidth:

The thing to consider is that your 'hand luggage' (aka. climbing gear) weighs significantly more than 5kg. In fact, it probably weighs more than 20kg if you take into account 100m static, a half rope or two, a large Lundy-sized rack, food, water etc... As such, you can see how the amount could rack up if you went via helicopter!

Also, I say 'if', but as suggested within the article I doubt the helicopter ride will account for 1% of climbers visiting the island. From what I gather the 'upgrade' is very infrequently offered in bad weather too, they just encourage you to go a day later or come back a day earlier.
Phil79 03 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Ha:

Hi Paul,

Went to Lundy for the first time in August, and widely used your guide (thanks!).

One thing we couldn't work out was the location of Mary Patricia Rozalia. Is the location actually indicated on plan in the guide (other than a description)? In the end we didn't venture up that far as only there for 3 days, and we weren't confident that we'd find it!

But it would be good to know where it is for next time. And perhaps one to clarify in the next edition of the guide?


Max factor 03 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Is The Ocean getting climbed? Tried it just after someone put in a big cleaning effort last September, and a sudden rainstorm turned it into a slick mudfest necessitating a retreat into the incoming tide from the P2 belay. Proper Lundy experience!
In reply to Max factor:

Nobody did it, at least to my knowledge, whilst we were there. The logbooks seem to say as much too.

Shame, as it looks like it's got a lot going for it when it's de-vegetableized.
Paul Ha 04 Oct 2016
In reply to Phil

Hi Phil, Mary Parricia Rozalia is not covered by any photo diagram but its pretty easy to locate. Just walk down to the top of The North Light Cliffs from where it is possible to look back across the sea channel/cave mentioned in the text and locate the prominent top crack of the route you can also sketch out suitable abseil blocks, pick a low tide/ calm sea though. Its worth finding.
Offwidth 04 Oct 2016
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

100m static rope in hand luggage!... genius ;-)
andrewmc 05 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:
First time I went to Lundy I ended up on the helicopter because the seas were too rough. I almost certainly had way more than 20kg but nothing ever got said about the weight (it probably did get weighed given they asked how much we weighed!). Since everyone was in the same boat (well actually I guess the opposite), luggage was transported on separate flights with only the (light) hand luggage (this may be the case normally as well, I don't know). Luggage was flown over on the last flights so you wouldn't get any climbing in on arrival day in this case (unless you are soloing...).
Post edited at 12:26

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