UKC

When I first walked into the house, the photo was the very first thing I saw and I was captivated by it. Alex Messenger had taken it in 2008, and it was Nico Favresse powering gracefully up the final part of The Axe.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

The Axe was my favourite single pitch route. My highlight was getting a hands off rest on the steepest part of the arete. I managed to manoeuvre myself into a sitting position facing out on a small ledge beneath a bulge. The exposure with both walls receding behind me was breathtaking

In reply to kevin stephens:

That seat rest is absolutely out of this world isn't it?! It's so unlikely when you're looking at it too. Am I right in thinking it's just above where Nico is in Alex Messenger's fantastic photograph?

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

It is indeed. I’m not sure without seeing a wider angle. It may have been just below the climber as I recall pulling over a big overhang after my rest

In reply to UKC Articles:

Good read. Thanks for posting. That Alex photo is one of the best ever of a mountain climb on British rock. It makes you want to do the route, not that I could these days.

In reply to Sean Kelly:

Wasn't there a photo (poster) of the late Phil ('Jimmy') Jewell soloing The Axe? I remember seeing it back in the eighties when there was still a chance I might have climbed it and thinking it looked absolutely terrifying. Sadly, Jimmy died soloing down a much, much easier climb at Tremadog.

In reply to UKC Articles: Jimmy Jewel soloing The Axe was something to behold. Worth searching for the VHS tape and player from your older climbing friends and having the chalk bag beside you on the sofa as he cruises it

In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant. Enjoyed that, entirely agree on the power of images which is why back in the day I would often prioritise routes from the pics in a guidebook. 

In reply to Lankyman:

Yes, taken by the late Paul Williams. Jimmy climbed it very early in the morning so it was in sunlight. We met them coming down from it as we were going up to Cloggy. Jim was absolutely buzzing, and Paul as ever was talking a lot!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Beautiful stuff Inigo. So much to relate to here.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks Inigo - highly evocative of a very special route, it might be my favourite too (definitely top 5). I wrote up my own experience for the Rucksack Club Journal

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/secret-words-ge...

... and I didn't get any pics so Alex Messenger was kind enough to let me use one of his images from the same ascent by Nico Favresse (a bit lower down on the Aréte).

Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Dom 

In reply to pingora:

There is no VHS footage of Jimmy's solo of The Axe. It was only ever photographed. You may be thinking of one of his solos in Total Control?

In reply to Matt Podd:

I still have some copies of this poster. If anyone wants a copy (free, save for a small donation to mountain rescue). Sheffield/Peak only as I can't be arsed to post!

In reply to UKC Articles:

The Axe is a truly great route, but to my mind, although it is significantly easier, Shrike (E2 5c), just round the corner, is even better.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice Inigo! 

Took me right back to the hall of Gowan Road (RIP)… I can smell it now. 

That pic also originally appeared in a UKC article about it back in the day

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/an_international_affair_-_bmc_...

Someone just reminded me that I was so inspired by The Axe that I came back from that meet promising to climb it. Maybe in the next life. 
 

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I seem to remember two seat rests! Leaving the first was the crux for me! 

In reply to UKC Articles:

That wonderful picture of Jim Jewell is the cover picture of the Paul Williams CC Cloggy guide. A book of unsurpassed joy which led me and chums to some of our most memorable adventures.

The Axe. Cor phew.

Happy days.

In reply to dominic o:

Thanks for sharing that link Dom. An excellent read  even more so with a couple of familiar names from the past. Dave Booth from the 70's who regularly climbed with Keith Bolton, later my regular partner, and strong team. Sadly Dave I believe, died far too young, not that long after your ascent of the Axe. Warby was another name from the 70's who I last saw on Dinas Mot about 15  years back. Remember me to him if he is still around. Cheers, Sean 

In reply to Sean Kelly:

Thanks Sean - Dave tragically no longer with us but Warby very much is. Cheers, Dom 

In reply to Shani:

That's the one. No shirt, Fluo Ron hills and big pink chalk bag.
I'd absolutely love a copy of that poster but I'm in France - anything you can do

E

In reply to Enty:

If you're prepared to pay the costs, I'll mail a copy to you!

In reply to Shani:

I'll message you.

E

In reply to UKC Articles:

God I want to get on this route

In reply to all:

Anyone who has requested copies of this poster, I've just found a load of requests in my junk folder so just going through them now. Apologies for the delay.