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/ NEWSFLASH: Perfecto Mundo, 9b+ first ascent by Alex Megos

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UKC News - on 09 May 2018
Alex Megos on Perfecto Mundo, 9b+, Margalef, Spain, 6 kbAlex Megos has made the first ascent of Perfecto mundo, 9b+, at Margalef, Spain.

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pasbury on 09 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

I hope Sharma gets it too.

jezb1 - on 09 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome

stp - on 10 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Cool. Not surprised that Megos got it first. Presumably the fastest ascent of a route of that grade? It doesn't sound like he found it too hard. Part of Sharma's comment was: "Now you have to go find something that’s actually hard for you."

Video of an attempt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXnJo_BaZ-s

ericinbristol - on 10 May 2018
In reply to stp:

Best with the sound off, otherwise 'Allez. Allez. ALLEZ! Allez. allez. aaa-lllez! allez. Allez. Alleeez! Allez. Allez. ALLEZ!' etc Time he changed his name to Allez Megos

Si dH - on 10 May 2018
In reply to ericinbristol:

Bit strange, an American and an Italian shouting French at a German in Spain? 

kuweso - on 10 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

May be it is, because Alex is half greek - You have considered this aspect?

Pete Dangerous - on 10 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Shall we have a whip-round and buy him a drill?

kuweso - on 10 May 2018
In reply to stp:

My congrats to Alex. Also my best wishes to Chris and Stefano - Hope they will tick it soon! Btw: This team is awesome! Just imagine the union of two very connected young machines with similar physical characteristics (height, weight and strength), able to reduce the work on the route to historical minimums, because every beta-idea will serve immediately to both. And over all the generous discoverer of all important Catalonian king-lines. Each month together will deliver at least one new milestone down there and among friends it doesn't matter too much, who will be the first to send it in any case.

kuweso - on 10 May 2018
In reply to kuweso:

Sincerely and by own experience: "Allez, allez" sounds way better in similar situation than "go, go" or "anda, anda". The worst case of all would be, that everybody cries what he knows best:  "go, anda, go, anda", seems to communicate "go under" - not even kind in the ears of the fighting athlete.

snoop6060 - on 10 May 2018
In reply to kuweso:

> My congrats to Alex. Also my best wishes to Chris and Stefano - Hope they will tick it soon! Btw: This team is awesome! Just imagine the union of two very connected young machines with similar physical characteristics (height, weight and strength), able to reduce the work on the route to historical minimums, because every beta-idea will serve immediately to both. And over all the generous discoverer of all important Catalonian king-lines. Each month together will deliver at least one new milestone down there and among friends it doesn't matter too much, who will be the first to send it in any case.

Think you need to lay off the crack. 

TheGeneralist - on 10 May 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

Whoah.  Dude.  Can you speak his mother tongue as well as he can speak English?  If not then piss off.

snoop6060 - on 10 May 2018
In reply to TheGeneralist:

To be fair my English is pretty crap too which is far more embarrassing given I have lived here my whole life. But the comment wasn't really saying his English was crap. More so that it made me laugh as it was something my mate would say after a bit too much acid. No xenophobia intended. 

bensilvestre - on 10 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

That wall hurts my neck to walk under. Amazing that any of the routes up it are possible, let alone that one. Great effort 

kuweso - on 11 May 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

Well, Snoopy. I don't know, whether you still were born, when I took my last acid, but as I remember, neither during the last nor during the ones before I mentioned stuff like the one above. So recommend your mate the change of the dealer to take one real trip at least. May be it's worth it.

aln - on 11 May 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

> Think you need to lay off the crack. 

What does that mean? 

stp - on 11 May 2018
In reply to kuweso:

> Each month together will deliver at least one new milestone down there and among friends it doesn't matter too much, who will be the first to send it in any case.

Apparently Alex isn't hanging around. He's off to Ceuse next to try another mega project right of Biographie. That one was bolted by Ethan Pringle.

 

AlanLittle - on 11 May 2018
In reply to stp:

> It doesn't sound like he found it too hard. Part of Sharma's comment was: "Now you have to go find something that’s actually hard for you."

Yeah, definitely the most relaxed looking ascent of a 9b+ ever (compared to the other four that is)

Jonas Wiklund - on 11 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

> Bit strange, an American and an Italian shouting French at a German in Spain? 

Iulian Pobleanu sounds like a very Italian name indeed... :D. Someone is speaking pretty fluent french (native sounding infact) to the guy holding the film camera/cell phone at the start of the film...

Also: "allez" is Europeish, much as saying "ciao" when leaving. (Many germans seems to prefer allez to "Geht!")

GrahamD - on 11 May 2018
In reply to Si dH:

> Bit strange, an American and an Italian shouting French at a German in Spain? 

Looking at the video clip, the German is definitely swearing in English, though 

Si dH - on 11 May 2018
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

> ..

> Also: "allez" is Europeish, much as saying "ciao" when leaving. (Many germans seems to prefer allez to "Geht!")

Afew years ago, 'venga' used to be pretty ubiquitous in Catalonia. Not sure if people ever shout 'vamos' in the rest of Spain. 

stp - on 11 May 2018
stp - on 14 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

A more detailed interview is on Planet Mountain.

"The hard section is about 20 meters long. 45°, with practically no good holds. After the third quickdraw it suddenly becomes really intense. There are about 60 moves, 50 of which are on tiny holds, none of which are good."

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/perfecto-mundo-attempt-videos-alexander-megos-chris-sharma-stefano-ghisolfi-margalef.html


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